00VI and the swirl valves.. Did you or not
10-14-2007, 05:02 PM
#1
00VI and the swirl valves.. Did you or not
First and foremost i want to thank Joe (98seBlackMax) for the lovely job on the 00vi. He did such a nice job the VI looks like it is meant to be there very very clean. I will try to get the pictures up later.
We did not remove the swirl valves and we have them functioning very well reason is that we did want to have jb weld in intake although its been proven tough enough I just dint want to have to deal with it and the car runs stronger than ever.
I have a check engine light for o2 sensor that i have to replace that wasn't there before the swap and nothing so far for the IACV.
Anyway with the guys that ran their cars without the swirls did you notice a difference power because with my car it pulls hard with that swap and i am pretty impressed. Just post up and tell me your views..
We did not remove the swirl valves and we have them functioning very well reason is that we did want to have jb weld in intake although its been proven tough enough I just dint want to have to deal with it and the car runs stronger than ever.
I have a check engine light for o2 sensor that i have to replace that wasn't there before the swap and nothing so far for the IACV.
Anyway with the guys that ran their cars without the swirls did you notice a difference power because with my car it pulls hard with that swap and i am pretty impressed. Just post up and tell me your views..
10-15-2007, 03:15 PM
#2
Well unfortunately, we have the issue of not being able to tell what the differences are. I took out my swirl valves but I don't have any comparison with the swirl valves in. The only real way that this could be determined is dyno'ing the exact same car with and without swirl valves. Yeah, the 00VI gives a power increase so you're probably just feeling that. Sorry for the non-definitive answer but if you really want to know, run the dyno, then take out your LIM again, lose the swirl valves, and dyno again. 
10-15-2007, 09:47 PM
#3
Well unfortunately, we have the issue of not being able to tell what the differences are. I took out my swirl valves but I don't have any comparison with the swirl valves in. The only real way that this could be determined is dyno'ing the exact same car with and without swirl valves. Yeah, the 00VI gives a power increase so you're probably just feeling that. Sorry for the non-definitive answer but if you really want to know, run the dyno, then take out your LIM again, lose the swirl valves, and dyno again.
no idea how the car would feel with the swirl valves in, but it feels great without them, i know that much
I didn't trust the JB weld either, I took my LIM to a place that did aluminum welding (damn near impossible to find around here) and had them fill the holes up.
10-19-2007, 12:39 PM
#4
^ i also did the same as 2pb, I had the holes welded.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=373884&page=2
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=373884&page=2
12-08-2007, 01:53 AM
#10
12-09-2007, 06:42 PM
#11
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OK, interesting this thread from maxima92se happened to get bumped..........
Because he recently blew an oil-pump from a missed shift, and when I did the engine swap I took care of the swirl valves. Here's the deal with JB-weld.
DO NOT USE IT!!
From racing motocross and trail-riding in middleboro (Land of rocks and stumps) in addition to every two years having to fix my dads cleaning tool, I know ALL about JB-weld (and the stickwelds = bomb
and how long it does and doesn't last. In fact, I could probably fabricate an entire car from the stuff!! But anyways, enough about my expertise in JBweld........ The clutch release lever tab on my blaster needed to be re-done every two weeks, my dad's extractor wand every two years.
You DO NOT want to fill your swirl-valves with JB-weld. After several years, or enough time at harsh vibrations + chemicals, it WILL fail. It WILL crack & brake & crumble. TRUST ME.
Instead, do what I just did. Pop the stock seals out. Find a roundhead screw (The flusher the head the better) that is a nice fit inside the hole, but with a head that can't ever get sucked in. Clean everything with brake cleaner. Goop the screw all over with permetex grey. Insert it in the hole. Goop the top of the screwhead in permetex grey. Pop the seals back on, sandwhiching the screws in place.
Guaranteed to not leak And more importantly NEVER get sucked into engine. Physically impossible!!! Now, 'maybe' it 'might' pop out @ 15psi of boost, so basically. You're all good.
But weld it or do my method. DO NOT use JB-weld.
Because he recently blew an oil-pump from a missed shift, and when I did the engine swap I took care of the swirl valves. Here's the deal with JB-weld.
DO NOT USE IT!!
From racing motocross and trail-riding in middleboro (Land of rocks and stumps) in addition to every two years having to fix my dads cleaning tool, I know ALL about JB-weld (and the stickwelds = bomb
and how long it does and doesn't last. In fact, I could probably fabricate an entire car from the stuff!! But anyways, enough about my expertise in JBweld........ The clutch release lever tab on my blaster needed to be re-done every two weeks, my dad's extractor wand every two years. You DO NOT want to fill your swirl-valves with JB-weld. After several years, or enough time at harsh vibrations + chemicals, it WILL fail. It WILL crack & brake & crumble. TRUST ME.
Instead, do what I just did. Pop the stock seals out. Find a roundhead screw (The flusher the head the better) that is a nice fit inside the hole, but with a head that can't ever get sucked in. Clean everything with brake cleaner. Goop the screw all over with permetex grey. Insert it in the hole. Goop the top of the screwhead in permetex grey. Pop the seals back on, sandwhiching the screws in place.
Guaranteed to not leak
And more importantly NEVER get sucked into engine. Physically impossible!!! Now, 'maybe' it 'might' pop out @ 15psi of boost, so basically. You're all good. But weld it or do my method. DO NOT use JB-weld.
Last edited by KRRZ350; 12-09-2007 at 06:48 PM.
12-09-2007, 09:28 PM
#13
OK, interesting this thread from maxima92se happened to get bumped..........
Because he recently blew an oil-pump from a missed shift, and when I did the engine swap I took care of the swirl valves. Here's the deal with JB-weld.
DO NOT USE IT!!
From racing motocross and trail-riding in middleboro (Land of rocks and stumps) in addition to every two years having to fix my dads cleaning tool, I know ALL about JB-weld (and the stickwelds = bomb and how long it does and doesn't last. In fact, I could probably fabricate an entire car from the stuff!! But anyways, enough about my expertise in JBweld........ The clutch release lever tab on my blaster needed to be re-done every two weeks, my dad's extractor wand every two years.
You DO NOT want to fill your swirl-valves with JB-weld. After several years, or enough time at harsh vibrations + chemicals, it WILL fail. It WILL crack & brake & crumble. TRUST ME.
Instead, do what I just did. Pop the stock seals out. Find a roundhead screw (The flusher the head the better) that is a nice fit inside the hole, but with a head that can't ever get sucked in. Clean everything with brake cleaner. Goop the screw all over with permetex grey. Insert it in the hole. Goop the top of the screwhead in permetex grey. Pop the seals back on, sandwhiching the screws in place.
Guaranteed to not leak And more importantly NEVER get sucked into engine. Physically impossible!!! Now, 'maybe' it 'might' pop out @ 15psi of boost, so basically. You're all good.
But weld it or do my method. DO NOT use JB-weld.
Because he recently blew an oil-pump from a missed shift, and when I did the engine swap I took care of the swirl valves. Here's the deal with JB-weld.
DO NOT USE IT!!
From racing motocross and trail-riding in middleboro (Land of rocks and stumps) in addition to every two years having to fix my dads cleaning tool, I know ALL about JB-weld (and the stickwelds = bomb
and how long it does and doesn't last. In fact, I could probably fabricate an entire car from the stuff!! But anyways, enough about my expertise in JBweld........ The clutch release lever tab on my blaster needed to be re-done every two weeks, my dad's extractor wand every two years. You DO NOT want to fill your swirl-valves with JB-weld. After several years, or enough time at harsh vibrations + chemicals, it WILL fail. It WILL crack & brake & crumble. TRUST ME.
Instead, do what I just did. Pop the stock seals out. Find a roundhead screw (The flusher the head the better) that is a nice fit inside the hole, but with a head that can't ever get sucked in. Clean everything with brake cleaner. Goop the screw all over with permetex grey. Insert it in the hole. Goop the top of the screwhead in permetex grey. Pop the seals back on, sandwhiching the screws in place.
Guaranteed to not leak
And more importantly NEVER get sucked into engine. Physically impossible!!! Now, 'maybe' it 'might' pop out @ 15psi of boost, so basically. You're all good. But weld it or do my method. DO NOT use JB-weld.
12-09-2007, 09:37 PM
#14
well, i actually had the swirl valves b4 and had them removed by a maxima gearhead buddy of mine.............he removed swirl valves and ported and polished the LIM and UIM also added a pathfinder TB and whatever...............
after having everything put on I could feel the difference immediately and this was when i was N/A
The car pulled crazy hard throughout........right from low rpms to redline, it was deff. worth it
after having everything put on I could feel the difference immediately and this was when i was N/A
The car pulled crazy hard throughout........right from low rpms to redline, it was deff. worth it
12-09-2007, 10:34 PM
#15
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (29)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Middleboro/Carver, Ma
Posts: 4,572
Also, DO NOT FORGET to re-install the retainer screws for the butterfly rods! If once the rods are out you don't put those screws back in you'll have two mini vacuum leaks.
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