another cv axle saga....
09-21-2007, 06:51 PM
#1
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another cv axle saga....
picked up a cv axle from O'Reilly's yesterday, after searching all of metro nashville for one for the VE-5....well they have it all checked out......you know, M/T, no ABS, 1992, etc. etc. so i figure i'm good.
I get home from work today, i get to work, have the old axle shaft out in 10 minutes (was SO freakin easy.) Then i pull the seal, because i bought the "proper" seal at a DIFFERENT O'Reilly's.
So to get to the point, apparently o'reilly doesn't differentiate between the axles enough to know the difference between SOHC and DOHC when i TOLD them such info. I lay the axle next to the new one.....the difference is night and day.
so now, i have a busted seal because the spring around it is crimped up from my removal method....and have to wait a week for that....and the "proper" axle will be here tomorrow.
On another note: i pulled what i thought to be a drain plug on the tranny....and wee...out pops a spring then a little shiny ball.
out of here:
is this some sort of check or pressure relief assembly?
also, 75/90 = expensive stuff....and stinks like the bowels of hell
I get home from work today, i get to work, have the old axle shaft out in 10 minutes (was SO freakin easy.) Then i pull the seal, because i bought the "proper" seal at a DIFFERENT O'Reilly's.
So to get to the point, apparently o'reilly doesn't differentiate between the axles enough to know the difference between SOHC and DOHC when i TOLD them such info. I lay the axle next to the new one.....the difference is night and day.
so now, i have a busted seal because the spring around it is crimped up from my removal method....and have to wait a week for that....and the "proper" axle will be here tomorrow.
On another note: i pulled what i thought to be a drain plug on the tranny....and wee...out pops a spring then a little shiny ball.
out of here:
is this some sort of check or pressure relief assembly?
also, 75/90 = expensive stuff....and stinks like the bowels of hell
Last edited by ustfdes; 09-21-2007 at 06:53 PM.
09-21-2007, 07:02 PM
#2
1.Internetautomart can get you the correct axle,just make sure his distributor has their shat together before ordering.
2.you removed a check ball/spring..BE sure to replace that asap,and do not move the car or spin the transmission in any way before replacing that check ball.
Drain plug is here.
2.you removed a check ball/spring..BE sure to replace that asap,and do not move the car or spin the transmission in any way before replacing that check ball.
Drain plug is here.
09-21-2007, 07:07 PM
#3
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and out of all this confusion of parts, parts, parts.....is my transmission designated a RS5F50V? or A?
and since im converting to synthetic, does anyone think i need to flush as much old crap as possible, or would mixing a small amount hurt anything?
edit: thanks greenie
and since im converting to synthetic, does anyone think i need to flush as much old crap as possible, or would mixing a small amount hurt anything?
edit: thanks greenie
09-21-2007, 07:13 PM
#5
09-21-2007, 07:22 PM
#6
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no, i told them V because i thought that's what it was from previous topics.
I told them 1992 SE manual transmission with V identifier, w/o ABS With LSD....and they mentioned something abotu traction control?
I told them 1992 SE manual transmission with V identifier, w/o ABS With LSD....and they mentioned something abotu traction control?
09-21-2007, 07:28 PM
#7
always tell them no if they ask.
09-21-2007, 07:32 PM
#8
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ya, i did....they swore to me that some maximas have T/C.....i just dropped it and said "well mine doesn't"
man those honda drivers sure know about maximas sometimes...........
man those honda drivers sure know about maximas sometimes...........
09-21-2007, 11:48 PM
#9
Oooo shiny little ball!!! COOL!!!!
Damn that sucks dude, cant even getcho car back together cuz they cant get their **** straight. Lucky me I have a VG auto. I can get an axle anytime,anywhere dirt cheap
Damn that sucks dude, cant even getcho car back together cuz they cant get their **** straight. Lucky me I have a VG auto. I can get an axle anytime,anywhere dirt cheap
09-22-2007, 11:36 AM
#10
These axles drive me crazy. I replaced my driver's side long ago for a busted boot and got the wrong part from NAPA, drove months with it, my tranny got destroyed since the axle was ever so slightly slipping out. I think it ruined a differential load bearing--the tranny actually worked but made this aweful grinding sound. Had to go to Autozone like 3 different times until I got the right one...definitely went through lotsa tranny seals too. When my passenger axle boot busted, I just removed the axle and had only the boot replaced to avoid any misplacement issues.
09-22-2007, 07:06 PM
#11
09-24-2007, 03:45 PM
#12
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I feel your pain.
Only difference was that I laid out the $2,000 for Nissan axles. 4 months later when we got to putting them in the car and found out the "surprise," the dealership I bought them from tried scare tactics saying that they wouldn't replace them. In the end it all worked out, though.
Only difference was that I laid out the $2,000 for Nissan axles. 4 months later when we got to putting them in the car and found out the "surprise," the dealership I bought them from tried scare tactics saying that they wouldn't replace them. In the end it all worked out, though.
09-24-2007, 04:57 PM
#13
I feel your pain.
Only difference was that I laid out the $2,000 for Nissan axles. 4 months later when we got to putting them in the car and found out the "surprise," the dealership I bought them from tried scare tactics saying that they wouldn't replace them. In the end it all worked out, though.
Only difference was that I laid out the $2,000 for Nissan axles. 4 months later when we got to putting them in the car and found out the "surprise," the dealership I bought them from tried scare tactics saying that they wouldn't replace them. In the end it all worked out, though.
2000$! oh what i would have done with that money.. did you double the value of you car when you put them in?
09-25-2007, 09:34 AM
#15
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lol the stench was similar to that residual smell that gasoline leaves (but not fuel related at all) and HORRIBLE chinese food, and gear oil.....but not far off from what the new stuff smelled like.
my shifting is actually smoother, my alignment is corrected, no vibration. drives great!
a couple more small body projects, then it's exhaust stud hell for me!
my shifting is actually smoother, my alignment is corrected, no vibration. drives great!
a couple more small body projects, then it's exhaust stud hell for me!
09-25-2007, 10:17 AM
#16
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Originally Posted by ColombianMax
They're 2k at Nissan? wow... I expected 400-600 per axle but holy cow! you can make your own for less
...or is that 99.9999999999999999999999%?
Congrats on getting that project done, ustfdes.
09-25-2007, 11:46 AM
#17
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thanks....although i was expecting more trouble out of the removal/installation portion that i was the part gathering.
but the actual removal took less than 10 minutes, and the installation would have only took 10 minutes, had i not forgotten the caliper that was hanging down.
the draining/filling of the tranny fluid was the longest part of it.....had i had all the parts i needed, it would have been about a 30 minute job
09-25-2007, 04:33 PM
#18
1. buy the axle seals from Nissan. I have NEVER gotten the proper seal from any of the dozen chain parts stores I've tried- even when I gave them the number and brand right off the side of the OEM seal..
2. stay away from slowreilly's VE axles. urgh. been there, done that. when I get axles from them (no matter what car), always pull the old axle-- leave the seal in the car for the time being-- and take the axle with you for comparison. one time they even tried to tell me I brought in the wrong axle.. I told them to give ME the computer.
their correct part number (A-1 Cardone brand) is 60-6010.
You can also use an ABS axle 60-6043 if they can get it quicker. the only difference is that it has the toothed ring on it for the ABS sensor. leave it there or knock it off with a hammer and call it a day.
2. stay away from slowreilly's VE axles. urgh. been there, done that. when I get axles from them (no matter what car), always pull the old axle-- leave the seal in the car for the time being-- and take the axle with you for comparison. one time they even tried to tell me I brought in the wrong axle.. I told them to give ME the computer.
their correct part number (A-1 Cardone brand) is 60-6010.
You can also use an ABS axle 60-6043 if they can get it quicker. the only difference is that it has the toothed ring on it for the ABS sensor. leave it there or knock it off with a hammer and call it a day.
09-25-2007, 04:35 PM
#19
1. buy the axle seals from Nissan. I have NEVER gotten the proper seal from any of the dozen chain parts stores I've tried- even when I gave them the number and brand right off the side of the OEM seal..
2. stay away from slowreilly's VE axles. urgh. been there, done that. when I get axles from them (no matter what car), always pull the old axle-- leave the seal in the car for the time being-- and take the axle with you for comparison. one time they even tried to tell me I brought in the wrong axle.. I told them to give ME the computer.
their correct part number (A-1 Cardone brand) is 60-6010.
You can also use an ABS axle 60-6043 if they can get it quicker. the only difference is that it has the toothed ring on it for the ABS sensor. leave it there or knock it off with a hammer and call it a day.
2. stay away from slowreilly's VE axles. urgh. been there, done that. when I get axles from them (no matter what car), always pull the old axle-- leave the seal in the car for the time being-- and take the axle with you for comparison. one time they even tried to tell me I brought in the wrong axle.. I told them to give ME the computer.
their correct part number (A-1 Cardone brand) is 60-6010.
You can also use an ABS axle 60-6043 if they can get it quicker. the only difference is that it has the toothed ring on it for the ABS sensor. leave it there or knock it off with a hammer and call it a day.
Sticky material right thar..
09-25-2007, 04:52 PM
#21
Take those part numbers with a grain of salt. it's what I got directly from A-1 Cardone's website. *should* be the right ones, but I haven't physically verified that is the case. the images they show on the site corresponding to those part numbers show the correct double-spline on the inboard side. so for all intents and purposes I'm going to consider those the right numbers.
09-25-2007, 05:01 PM
#22
Take those part numbers with a grain of salt. it's what I got directly from A-1 Cardone's website. *should* be the right ones, but I haven't physically verified that is the case. the images they show on the site corresponding to those part numbers show the correct double-spline on the inboard side. so for all intents and purposes I'm going to consider those the right numbers.
09-25-2007, 06:04 PM
#23
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Yeah, too bad we forgot the three bolts that held in the passenger side axle. When you watch a 280lb 6'4" redneck jerk half the axle apart while beer, buckshot sized ball bearings, grease....and a 280lb 6'4" redneck...go flying into a cherry picker it slows things down a bit, too.
09-26-2007, 07:42 AM
#25
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09-26-2007, 09:57 AM
#26
I know my part #s are correct from experience so I don't know cardones # all that well
10-25-2007, 03:19 PM
#27
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CV boot
Hi all,
I am the proud owner of a 94 VG30 with an auto box.
I need to replace the outer CV boot on the left halfshaft. I have read this thread hoping to find some info on how the separate the joint from the shaft.
Could someone please tell me if it is possible to replace the CV without removing the halfshaft from the vehicle and how should I go about taking the V joint out?
Cheers,
Nick.
I am the proud owner of a 94 VG30 with an auto box.
I need to replace the outer CV boot on the left halfshaft. I have read this thread hoping to find some info on how the separate the joint from the shaft.
Could someone please tell me if it is possible to replace the CV without removing the halfshaft from the vehicle and how should I go about taking the V joint out?
Cheers,
Nick.
10-25-2007, 04:04 PM
#28
You can tear down the outer joint without pulling the axle out of the car, but it will be easier to just pull the axle.
And generally when the outer boots are gone, the inner isn't far behind.
go ahead and buy both boots (I suggest boots for both axles even)....
pull both axles and rebuild all the joints while you're at it.
now... to rebuild the things..
http://blehmco.com/faq/CV%20boot%20change.txt
And generally when the outer boots are gone, the inner isn't far behind.
go ahead and buy both boots (I suggest boots for both axles even)....
pull both axles and rebuild all the joints while you're at it.
now... to rebuild the things..
http://blehmco.com/faq/CV%20boot%20change.txt
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