MOHFpro90

iTrader: (11)

FIRST OFF! Before I go any further, I MUST give a HUGE thank you to everyone that helped me along the way, me asking questions, their information and experience, everything. With the install: SIL Max00 and My friend Billy. Members: Tatanko, MADVQ(Ceasars Chariot), Matts95Max(whom I bought my 00vi from), XAugusta MoonX, ajcool2, DandyMax, Nmexmax, aznsap, anyone and everyone! This wouldnt be here without them! I also want to say that everything in the links I posted is only possible with the guys that helped! Names will be updated

This thread is made for people wanting to do the 00vi. I will update is as I go along, for best instructions/detail. If I miss anything, you see something odd, ANYTHING, just post...no biggie, Im sure Ill do something wrong. Also, I'm sure Ive got some misinformation, mistypes, etc...if you see something just tell me. This is mainly from research, and memory. Its here to help future swappers.

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Links for information:

Master of all 00vi threads:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=373884

Live swaps, step by step, and common issues encountered:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=536016
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=121423 <- Partially finished, however this has GREAT info on different setups and part combos you can use.

A32 LIM Use:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=263132&page=2 Pictures of an A32 tapped to fit the UIM.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=312694 More helpful pictures.

Vacuum Lines:
http://www.geocities.com/tatanko_gun...tuff/news.html Tatanko's site lists vacuum lines and ports.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=377107 Ceasars thread, lots of vacuum line pictures, and info.

EGR:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=261410 The definitive EGR thread.

00vi Grocery List, Coil and VAFC info:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=332016
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....54#post6025354 Good pics of A33 LIM setup.

Swirl valve, valve cover and other info:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=357599

Fuel injector information:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=363623

RPM switch info:
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...&postcount=126 <- ECU pin out diagram for tach signal.

00 A32 IACV use:
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...7&postcount=15
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...4&postcount=16 Shows you how to wire the 4th gen connector to the 5th gen IACV. Credit SDot82.

Helpful pictures:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=542192 The LARGEST compilation of pictures Ive found. IACV adapter, rear DEK valve cover, VIAS, EGR block off, Finished product, EVERYTHING! Even a blue sky and a nice Z.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=377107 GREAT pictures of a nice setup, vacuum lines, plugs, etc...


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00vi FAQ:

Q: Do I need an AFC if running 4th gen fuel equipment?
A: No. See this post. However, a tune is always nice, so its recomended especially if you noticed running rich, lean, misfiring, etc.

Q: If I run 5th gen fuel equipment, what do I need?
A: Fuel Rail adapters are necessary. This thread has a great explenation.

Q: I want to use the A32 Rear Valve Cover, can I? What issues arise?
A: You will need to grind down the middle and right coil pack bosses. Also, you must either (a) modify the cover for the PCV setup(link credit speedracer) (b) use a 90* heater elbow to relocate the PCV from under the UIM(link, post 26 credit Dandymax) or (c) rig it as a last resort by chopping the PCV pipe down, sticking a hose in the pcv, etc...

Q: How do I tap/drill my A32 LIM?
A: There are two ways. The right way, which includes filling and tapping all new(4) holes, or the not so right way, which includes using 2 existing holes and tapping 2 new holes. However, this leaves the ports on the LIM and UIM roughly 3/16" misaligned. See these threads: Thread 1, Thread 2

Q: Can I use JB weld to remove the swirl valves?
A: NO NO NO! Primarily, its not worth the risk EVER of it cracking or crumbling and getting in your engine. Sure, its been done by a lot of the guys on here. Is it wrong? Not necessarily, but its not worth the possible headache. Here is some more info on why NOT to use JB Weld, and what your other options are: Single Post, or see the whole thread here: Thread 1

Q: Can I port and/or polish my LIM or UIM with a dremel?
A: No, not effectively. My experience wasnt beneficial, and I found out that if I wanted a nice P&P, then I need a kit. Check this out for some more info: Thread 1

More to come.

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Install To Do list:
1. Port match(align) the LIM and UIM.
2. Make dowel guides to eliminate guessing on install day.
3. Fill existing holes and tap new holes in LIM.
4. Grind down boss #3 on rear valve cover.
5. Drill 1/2inch hole in rear valve cover and JBweld a 1/2 nipple out of the hole.
6. Fill in existing PCV hole.
7. Bypass coolant valves on TB.
8. Use coupler to bypass coolant lines.
9. Remove EGR system, and install block off plate.
10. Make sure the UIM -> LIM seal is true.
11. Make sure there are no intake leaks
12. Make sure TPS and IACV are in the correct positions.
13. Make sure all vacuum nipples and lines are secure and no leaks occur.
14. Redo A32 IACV plug to fit A33 IACV socket.

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Here is my experience:

9/18/07: Ordered the parts for the 00vi. I found this combination of parts to be the easiest way to go, cheapest, with the least modifications(In my opinion). I got mine for a very very good price. $210 shipped for the stuff below.

00 Upper Intake Manifold
4th Gen Lower Intake Manifold
00 IACV
00 Throttle Body
00 Fuel Injectors and Fuel Rails
EGR Block Off plate
Original bolts, gaskets, etc...

WHY is this the best combo(in my opinion)? Here are your other options:

00 Valve Cover and Coils: I did not purchase these, but with the help of others, got some more information on this option. The only reason buying these is necessary is if you dont want to grind down the two supports on your current valve cover. I dont mind, and I wont mind the fact that its not a "clean" rear valve cover. There is no performance gain. Only buy the rear valve cover and coils if you dont want to/cant grind down the supports. + 1 for me.
00 Lower Intake Manifold: You have to remove the swirl valves. Its a pain, and then you have to fill in the holes with JB weld or similar, and make sure everything is smooth. I prefer simply using a drill press(takes under 5 minutes) to drill the 4th gen lower. ALSO, this may be one less thing you have to pay for. +1
IACV Block Off Plate: Yeah, you could've done this, I thought about it and almost did do it. However, its a lot harder to adjust the idle then. Its not a turn of the screw as I'm told, but you actually have to adjust the throttle cable. Not easy. Also, I am not sure, but it might throw a code this way? And most 00vi kits will come with this(or you can pick one up cheap). I found the extra price to be worth the possible hassle later. +1

4th Gen Throttle Body: Simply, you need an adapter for this to work. With the 00TB, you do not. I find this to be worth the money. +1

00 Fuel Rails and Injectors: Ill get back to you on this From what I was told I will run a bit rich, but a VAFC or Emanage Ultimate is in the future.

EGR Block Off Plate: Quite simply? I don't want to deal with it. If it comes down to it and it hurts performance, Ill get an 00 EGR guide tube. If not, It is a LOT easier to not have an EGR to deal with when I get headers. Didn't cost me any extra, so its a give or take, your choice. I chose no. +1

Original Bolts and Gaskets: Kinda obvious. If they're old and not in good shape, trash them(re: gaskets/seals). The bolts are much easier to reuse...you will find yourself running around town a LOT looking for parts, bolts, hoses, etc...the less you have to, the better. And besides, the kit should come with some/most of them anyway. +1

9/21/07: Formulated a rough plan for work:

I know with this setup I will have to grind down two of the supports that stick up on my valve cover. I will use a Saw Zaw with appropriate blade.

I know that I will also have to drill new bolt holes the 4th Gen Lower Intake Manifold in order for the 00 Upper Intake Manifold to align and bolt on correctly.

That seems to be the only true hard prep.

10/04/07: Received the kit:

00 UIM, 00TB, 4th Gen LIM, Bolts, etc.

I will be working on cleaning them up, maybe a bit of polishing the TB, not sure yet. Im in no real hurry, I want to take this slow, and do it right. I need to decide what I am going to get to satisfy the need for an RPM switch and A/F controller, be it an SAFC, VAFC, Rpm switch, EB, EU, etc...not sure what I want to spend/do yet.

10/19/07: Starting Cleaning Process:

Greased Lightning(I like this over TB cleaner. This dissolves caked grease)
Wire brushes
Old Tooth Brushes
Paper Towels
Lots of Dr Pepper

I got the TB, IACV and associated ports cleaned. TB is clean as it will get. I might polish the inner part pre-throttle plate, its the same texture of the outside. Haven't decided if its doable or worth it.

11/14/07: More Prep Done:

Completely cleaned inside and out of the LIM.
I removed the threaded shafts from each end of the LIM.
I also drilled and installed guidance dowels in the UIM and LIM to eliminate confusion and guessing where the UIM should sit during install.
I picked up a tap set to drill and tap the LIM.

12/5/07: Bypassed TB coolant:

I bypassed the Throttle Body coolant system. After a scary mishap with a 5th gen, I figured I would play it safe and not have my car possibly suck in the coolant and stall...
I also tried to port the LIM a bit with a dremel. Dont try it, its really pointless. I got no where and used up two sanding heads.

More updates to come.

12/15/07: Prepped throttle body:

I ported the intake side of the TB and polised the intake and vacuum side where the surface is rough. I also polished the brass plate. All is clean and ready to go on, TPS and IACV are on and lower coolant and IACV body is mounted on the bottom.



12/29/07 INSTALL: Day 1 of install:

Removed everything, A32 UIM, LIM, Rear Valve Cover.
Drilled hole in rear valve cover and installed a new nipple for PCV
Bought a new PCV valve for an A32
Bypassed coolant lines for throttle body and A32 UIM
Tapped the LIM
Cut down middle and right bosses on rear valve cover. JBwelded.
Installed new NGK Platinum plugs.

12/30/07 INSTALL: Day 2 of install:
Installed new A32 LIM with taps.
Resintalled Fuel Rails with O-rings(used original ones from old LIM).
Additional JBweld on valve cover and PCV nipple.
Installed modified Valve Cover.
Modified grounding point for original ECU grounds. I rotated the LIM for ease of install, and the grounding points no longer existed. We soldered a wire and ran it to the crank case.
Removed ALL EGR system, and used a penny to block off the EGR port.
Test fit 00vi on, fits nicely.


12/31/07 INSTALL: Day 3 of install:
Fit 00vi on
Installed TB
Ran vacuum lines
Installed a nipple for the EVAP system above the TB
Attempted 1st start. Failed


01/02/08- 01/04/08 INSTALL: Day 4-6 of install:
Troubleshooting starting issue.
Basically, it would start, but not idle and it would die unless a lot of throttle was pushed.
Diagnose as a vacuum leak.
Fixed for the most part however a small leak still exists.

BUT! It starts! Runs good, and the power above 5000rpm is insane.

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

Personally, I would say buy an 00 rear valve cover/coils and buy an IACV adapter plate or make one so you can use the 4th gen IACV. You'll be better off in the long run, despite the extra cost. It's less work and you'll have less frustration when something doesn't work.

My suggestion with using the 4th gen lower, go all out. Fill all 4 of the old middle bolt holes and drill 4 completely new ones after you've port-matched the upper to the lower (aligned it so the ports are lined up perfectly). It's a little extra work, but worth it if you're doing the work yourself.

Oh, and you can't use the 5th gen fuel equipment with the 4th gen lower. Maybe you knew that, but that wasn't the impression I got from your post.

MOHFpro90

iTrader: (11)

Any reason on the buying the 00 rear valve cover?

Also, with the IACV, how hard would it be to make an adapter plate? And what 'issues' might I come across in the future? *edit:* Ok, reading the other active 00ci thread, an IACV adapter simply means removing the IACV all together, and running a hose into the mid pipe for the idle air intake?

Suggestion taken. Ill definitely do that...Ill have plenty of time and tools.

I didnt know that, thanks. Ill do some more searchin on this, thanks!

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

Getting the DEK rear valve cover and coil packs (rear only, don't need the fronts...and you must get both the cover and the coil packs, not one or the other) is simply going to make the install easier (albeit add an extra step, but it's very easy) and allow for a more OEM-ish setup in the end.

What I meant by using an adapter plate for the IACV is what most people do, myself included: make a plate you can bolt the 4th gen IACV to that has a hose going from the plate to a (1/2"?) fitting on the manifold, and then of course a hose going from the IACV to your midpipe. This is referred to as "remote mount."

MOHFpro90

iTrader: (11)

Ok, so let me get something strait. With the adapter, you still use the 4th gen IACV? I think I see it...is there any reason I should stick to the 4th gen isntead of using the 5th gen in the kit Im getting?

Just in case(fyi): I already ordered the parts, everything from a great guy for an greater better price...so everything that I mentioned in the OP is what I got for $210 and is coming soon.

XAugusta MoonX

iTrader: (1)

Well I'm in the middle of mine, but no there is no performance reason behind the rear valve cover and coilpacks. It's just a little bit easier than having to grind down the bosses. It also looks better than a hacked rear valve cover. That's what Tatanko is saying.

MOHFpro90

iTrader: (11)

Ahh...well I'm not uber picky about things like that. If its more functional(I.E. lining up the LIM and UIM and drilling) then Ill do it. Saw Zaw + file will flatten them out.

Original Post edited for more info(see? this is what I need more of!) Thanks guys!

GL with your's too man.

spdfreak

Good info MOHFpro90!

I got a quote for a VQ30DEK with 90k on it and a 6 month warranty for $250 picked up. Of course this is slightly easyer to hook up a full engine vs a bunch of parts, but it involves a swap and not everyone is cut out for that type of work.

About the EGR, I got some info from dandymax who is so, so, nice to me. He answers my questions, so I don't have to open new threads about things i'm unclear of. Back to what dandymax told me, he told me that I should leave the solenoid there along with the sensor so it doesnt throw a code. You will have to block off the IM. You will also have to disconnect the vacume tube going to the solenoid so it doesn't open.

What are the benefits of not running egr? Of course you won't have to buy the egr tube from a 2000 which is a savings of $25, but are there other benefits? I would think lower IM temp. Any others?

About the swirl valves, do you have info and/or pictures on the procedure? I should be getting my engine this week, and want to get a move on the project.

Thanks

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

Either one will work. I personally like the 4th gen because I didn't need to adjust it at all, I KNOW it works, and it's plug-and-play. Contrary to what I may have thought in the past, the 5th gen IACV will work if you're willing to mess with the connectors.

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

Definitely leave the EGR temp. sensor in place or you WILL throw a code, even if you're a '95 (contrary to the belief that the '95 ECUs don't care about EGR/EVAP related items). Removing the vacuum line though I am not so sure about. Common sense tells me you wouldn't want to do that because there's also an ECU code for insuffecient/excess EGR flow, and if the valve isn't opening at all then I would wonder if it might trip that code. Mine is not disconnected.
Lower intake temperatures, but not by much, and only part throttle. At WOT the EGR valve isn't pushing any exhaust into the manifold, so you don't really benefit there. Gas mileage actually goes down, by maybe a MPG or two (I still get upwards of 30 MPG on the highway with my automatic).

spdfreak

Why down? More oxygen (no exhaust) shouldmean more efficentcy & better MPG?

MOHFpro90

iTrader: (11)

Thanks for the props man.

Re: Swirl Valve Procedures, check this post out:
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...2&postcount=77
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...2&postcount=83

Both from MADVQ(Caesar)

Ok, I need to ask...is it normal to know in general about what you're talking about(re: egr temp sensor) but to not know specifically? I mean, I know where the EGR guide tube is, but not sure where the temp sensor is...I mean, all these little specifics will come with the swap and actually having the hands on, right?

Post updated with more info.

spdfreak

Just like you man, I don't know everything. I will learn more when I swap.

Lets just say good luck to each other.

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

I can't explain it scientifically. It's just something I have noticed, others have noticed, and even owners of many other kinds of cars have noticed (it's pretty universal).
Yes, that's normal. It is pretty much impossible to know everything there is to know, even AFTER you've done the swap. FYI, the EGR temp sensor is on the EGR guide tube (it screws into a hole on the tube itself).

MOHFpro90

iTrader: (11)

Ahh, ok just making sure that even though Ive done a lot of reading, its ok not to know everything.

Thanks!

MOHFpro90

iTrader: (11)

00vi put on hold. I need to order some stuff, build my RPM switch and save some cash for new Ksport struts. I will be taking pictures and updating prep work, but for now I have a question:

What is the best way to clean deap in the manifold? Im going to try Grease Lightning and some sort of snake brush drill attachment. Any ideas?

Post #1001!

97MaximaSE97

iTrader: (3)

Damn now I just got confused again. I thought if you go the 4th gen LIM route, you just need it to be port matched to the OOVI UIM and you'd be all set. What else would you need when going that route?

MOHFpro90

iTrader: (11)

I will take some pics later. From what I have read, you have to drill new holes in the LIM to align with the UIM. Also, Tatanko suggested that you align the ports up and then drill them(which is what Ill be doing). I was never under the impression that the port size was different, however...Ill take some measurements later to clear this up.

DandyMax

iTrader: (7)

Disconnecting the vacuum line won't trip a code. You can do it either at the EGR valve itself or the solenoid (or remove all the lines). The ECU just looks at the EGR temp sensor and EGRC solenoid voltages; it's blind to the rest of the EGR system (whose components are all mechanical). If those voltages are in the expected range for the different operating conditions, no codes.


Speak for yourself.

I'm just kidding of course...

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

hows the swap going ?

MOHFpro90

iTrader: (11)

I updated the first post...sorry I kinda forgot to. Last two dates I just added.

Haven't "started" yet, still prepping. I do have a question though:

I have this part that goes between the TB and the UIM, with a half sleeve that extends into the UIM near the bottom port(Not sure which one this is). Any ideas? Its black, has the 4 TB bolt holes with an attached gasket. Its restrictor-plate-ish...?

XAugusta MoonX

iTrader: (1)

I have mine in. Not exactly sure what it does but it's in there. I think it may just be some sort of spacer. Haven't had any problems. If you still need that fuel rail adapter though, let me know .

MOHFpro90

iTrader: (11)

I love quick replys...anyhow, is the adapter needed when using the 4th gen Fuel Rails?

XAugusta MoonX

iTrader: (1)

You're going to need at least one. Are you using Ceaser's thread as a reference? He doesn't really show the adapter but this one does http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=121423
I have a Weapon R adapter if you want it. PM me.

MOHFpro90

iTrader: (11)

I see, I see. So its basically use to hook up the fuel rail line to the rail itself? I actually have access to a mill for free, so I might try my hand at making a few parts(this being one of them). If I dont, then Ill definitely contact you. Thanks for the offer!

Also, and ideas on where the rest of that guide on nicoclub went? Its so nice, yet he stops right after a :

XAugusta MoonX

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, it's hard to mill something like that though. I don't know about the nicoclub thing. You may try Ceaser's thread. Mine is pretty in depth and if you need any info, please free to contact me.

aznsap

iTrader: (29)

i don't think you can use 00fuel rails and injectors with a 4g lower IM.

and for the IACV, i used the 5g TB and IACV, so the setup is real clean. i plugged the 4g IACV plug into the 5g IACV.

there was a thread a while ago w/ pics on how someone did it. you have to trim some plastic and bend the prongs a little bit.

ajcool2

iTrader: (43)

Where can I get these??

XAugusta MoonX

iTrader: (1)

That's what I'd be selling except CNC milled. PM me if you want more info. MOHFPro just thinking about it now, you're using the 4th Gen LIM so you don't need that adapter to eliminate the fuel pressure regulator.

MOHFpro90

iTrader: (11)

Yeah, I am. I was wondering, I read in a few of the 00vu threads that if I do use the 4th LIM, FR and FIs, then I dont need an AFC? Is this correct? It would still seem to me that it would be needed, but if its not essential(like using 00 FR and FIs needs the AFC), I may hold off for an Emanage Blue closer to Christmas.

XAugusta MoonX

iTrader: (1)

No you don't need an air fuel controller as you'll be running the 4th Gen fuel rail. You won't be running as rich as we are with the 5th Gen.

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

Keyword: as

MOHFpro90, check your PMs.

MOHFpro90

iTrader: (11)

Ok, this is helful Tatanko, so I am posting it here too. Oh, and you saved me some money

Q: When installing the 00vi, using 4th gen LIM, Fuel Rails and Injectors, is an AFC needed to tune?

A: If you are using A32 fuel, you do not NEED to tune. I am currently running A32 fuel without tuning and the car is perfectly fine. I have an AFC, but it has no correction settings on it at the moment because I have no wideband. If you used A33 fuel, you would definitely want an AFC. As of right now, even with A32 fuel though, I am running a decent bit rich. I can tell because you can faintly smell it, my exhaust tip gets black after a month or two, and it has that slight "burble" of mini-backfires you can hear a little if you're slowing down in gear with no gas (i.e. in 2nd gear going down a hill not using the brakes).

If anyone else would like to contribute(Nmexmax, Im waiting for a comment :P) that would be great!

Also added an 00vi FAQ to my original post.

Ok, now I have another question. Has anyone tried porting the 4th gen LIM while its off? I have a spare LIM, so car downtime wont be afffected. Im just wondering if it is worth the time spent to port and polish it? I cant imagine it being easy...

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

I polished mine with a dremel and hand sanded it also. Porting it isn't worth your time, though, unless you port matched the heads. As it is, the ports on the LIM are equal in size to the ports on the heads. The best time spent on the LIM is port-matching it to the upper manifold. Doing that isn't easy, though. It requires you to drill 4 all new holes in the lower manifold after you match up the upper manifold to the lower manifold (and clamp them together to keep them in place). Otherwise it's slightly off. I still wish I had done that, but oh well. In good time.

I should also mention about tuning: gas mileage. I used to be able to get 30+ MPG on long all-highway trips, now I can only manage closer to 26 or 27. I also have no EGR, though. This is one of those "results may vary" situation depending on how your car is set up and what options you go with.

MOHFpro90

iTrader: (11)

I get like 22 mpg on the highway... :/ The KS, Rear O2 and MAP/Barro codes may be to blame for that...

I do plan on port matching them. Ill take all the time I need, as my spare LIM will allow me to. I am probably going to get a tap and die set from Sears and use a press. Ill take a lot of pics while I actually prep instead of just cleaning >.<

MOHFpro90

iTrader: (11)

Alright, I was wondering if anyone had any pictures of a 4th LIM filled and tapped? I searched and found a few threads regarding this(see below) but never found any pictures. Anyone?

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....58751&t=381516
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=361610

Edit: I found some GREAT stuff.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=263132&page=2

MOHFpro90

iTrader: (11)

Ok, I am looking around for an RPM switch. Has anyone made their own? Or have most gone the purchasing route? Recommedations?

I plan on doing the install Thanksgiving weekend, I might be tapping the 4th gen LIM this monday if I get the tap set.

MOHFpro90

iTrader: (11)

Lately I have removed the end mounts on the LIM, and drilled dowel holes and installed dowels in the UIM and LIM for alignment.

My current questions are:

1. I am looking around for an RPM switch. Has anyone made their own? Or have most gone the purchasing route? Recommendations?

2. I am working on the PCV setup. I think I am doing DandyMax's way, and getting a heater elbow to move the PCV itself out from under the UIM. Has anyone done this?

3. Reading around, I noticed a lot of intake issues. I'm using a short ram right now, just after the stock midpipe. What have you guys done?

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

1. I think SO FAR everyone has either purchased an RPM switch or used the VTEC function on a VAFC unit. Making one has been discussed, but I don't think it's ever actually been done.

2. I'm not sure if anyone has actually done it this way, but I know about a year ago when I was doing the swap and considering it I was sort of talked out of it. I can't remember why exactly, but something to do with the valve not function as well when used remotely as opposed to in the valve cover itself. I believe everyone who's used the 4th gen rear valve cover has drilled a a new hole and JB welded the valve into place, but...

3. A standard short ram will work. It might make for some awkward positioning of hoses (especially the IACV depending on where yours will end up mounted), however, and as with the stock manifold you will lose a little bit of low end torque with that particular setup. I am still perfecting mine, and until I finish it I'm not going to share it because it's pointless. I should have it the way I want it next week, though, so check my thread if you see it bumped to the top of All Motor.

MOHFpro90

iTrader: (11)

1. I would love to build my own switch. I think I am going to, skills, supplies and resources arent the issue, its just time and patience. Total cost would be around $25, definitely cheaper. And it would be very accurate.

2. I think Ill probably drill and retap it too, I want to do this the 'right'(best) way I can with what Ive got. Also, I dont assume your 'chopping' of the PCV worked, did it?

3. Ahh, as long as it all fits