Finally! Cammed DEK is alive and makin' sweet music to my ears
09-06-2007, 08:28 PM
#1
3.5 in the works
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Location: Ontario, Canada
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Finally! Cammed DEK is alive and makin' sweet music to my ears *video added*
EDIT: added Part 1 (closed cutout) and Part 2 (open cutout) videos. Click here for Part 1 and here for Part 2.
It's been over 11 months since I've had the pleasure of hearing my car run, or driving it for that matter. Well after countless delays and frustrations (for things outside my control) I've finally been able to get the DEK built and into the car (along with everything else from the old setup, plus a couple additions).
Fired it up tonight, and man was it sweet music to my ears with the cutout open in the garage. The neighbors all came over to check it out - hah. I can't wait to drop the hammer on this thing, but I gotta break in a new clutch first... doh. 
Sorry I know this is kind of a useless post, but I'll post up a video in a couple days so you can hear the engine running with the cams/Cattman headers/cutout etc. I'm just stoked this evening after being without my Max for so long.
Oh and to add some technical merit, lol, I may also post up a picture of something that some 3.5 swappers using 3.0 timing stuff might be interested in - an alternative to having the cams drilled or getting adapters, if you have access to a machine shop/have one near you...
It's been over 11 months since I've had the pleasure of hearing my car run, or driving it for that matter. Well after countless delays and frustrations (for things outside my control) I've finally been able to get the DEK built and into the car (along with everything else from the old setup, plus a couple additions).
Fired it up tonight, and man was it sweet music to my ears with the cutout open in the garage. The neighbors all came over to check it out - hah. I can't wait to drop the hammer on this thing, but I gotta break in a new clutch first... doh. Sorry I know this is kind of a useless post, but I'll post up a video in a couple days so you can hear the engine running with the cams/Cattman headers/cutout etc. I'm just stoked this evening after being without my Max for so long.
Oh and to add some technical merit, lol, I may also post up a picture of something that some 3.5 swappers using 3.0 timing stuff might be interested in - an alternative to having the cams drilled or getting adapters, if you have access to a machine shop/have one near you...
Last edited by DandyMax; 10-01-2007 at 07:22 PM.
09-07-2007, 04:32 AM
#9
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Sweet! sounds like another beast in the making. What do you think of the idea of doing cams with the engine in the bay seeing that you have done this (I know you did yours while the engine was out, but just so I get an idea when I get around to the cam swap)
09-07-2007, 05:04 AM
#11
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Originally Posted by speed racer
Great to hear you have everything up and running. Interested in the cam application myself. My cams been siting around collecting dust.
speed, what cams are you putting in? I have VQ35DE stock cams with StephenMax's spacer/adaptors.
09-07-2007, 06:46 AM
#12
3.5 in the works
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Originally Posted by TDotMax
Sweet! sounds like another beast in the making. What do you think of the idea of doing cams with the engine in the bay seeing that you have done this (I know you did yours while the engine was out, but just so I get an idea when I get around to the cam swap)
09-07-2007, 06:52 AM
#13
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Originally Posted by DandyMax
I think it's doable, just the tight space by the timing cover will be a PITA. IIRC a few here have done it though.
09-07-2007, 08:06 AM
#14
3.5 in the works
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Originally Posted by TDotMax
Once you take it for a good boot, let me know if you feel this mod is worth while considering costs. Did you change valve springs as well?
Yes I changed the springs. But if you're using stock 3.5 cams and not revving past 7200 you're probably ok with the DEK valve springs.
09-07-2007, 08:08 AM
#15
Originally Posted by TDotMax
Same, the labor has me scared as I don't know what to expect since I haven't seen any dyno's yet. Hopefully it's a bang for the buck mod.
speed, what cams are you putting in? I have VQ35DE stock cams with StephenMax's spacer/adaptors.
speed, what cams are you putting in? I have VQ35DE stock cams with StephenMax's spacer/adaptors.
09-07-2007, 09:30 AM
#17
Originally Posted by DandyMax
Oh and to add some technical merit, lol, I may also post up a picture of something that some 3.5 swappers using 3.0 timing stuff might be interested in - an alternative to having the cams drilled or getting adapters, if you have access to a machine shop/have one near you...
You're Backkkkkkkkkkk !! Good news for all of us...
Let us know about your new twist on cam adapters, plz.
Now I need to get off my lazy azzz and install my cammed 3.5....
09-07-2007, 09:58 AM
#19
Originally Posted by DandyMax
What do you mean by messing them up?
09-07-2007, 02:45 PM
#21
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 363
Originally Posted by speed racer
I have the same cams. Don't have the cam adapter yet though. I found mine for $100.00. But like you said. I'm just worried about messing them up.
09-07-2007, 02:48 PM
#22
Originally Posted by rmh3093
wow, i need to find me some cams for $100
www.my350z.com, www.g35driver.com.
Lotsa guys selling OEM VQ35 cams there.
09-07-2007, 03:10 PM
#23
Originally Posted by One Crazy Max
you got any sound clips of what it sounds like yet. i would love to hear a built and cammed VQ30.
Anyway, congrats on getting her up and running again. It's been a long time coming, to be sure.
09-07-2007, 03:17 PM
#24
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: New York
Posts: 236
Originally Posted by nismology
He never said it was built, unless I missed something.
Anyway, congrats on getting her up and running again. It's been a long time coming, to be sure.
Anyway, congrats on getting her up and running again. It's been a long time coming, to be sure.
I've finally been able to get the DEK built and into the car (along with everything else from the old setup, plus a couple additions)
09-07-2007, 11:36 PM
#30
3.5 in the works
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Yeah the break-in is going to take some will power. Only 700 more miles! 
When I said built, I guess technically it's not a full build, but I did have the engine torn down completely except for the crank/pistons, and I changed the cams, springs, retainers, oil pump, did some mild head work and tapped in an oil-pressure cut off switch, so it was definitely a rebuild at least with enhancements. It's not like I just took the engine off the truck and popped it in the car.
I went driving a bit tonight... man I need an alignment, I'm squealing tires everywhere just driving in a straight line lol, and idle is a problem right now, the stock ECU is confuzzled, and closed loop /cold start fueling is causing me grief as expected. Lots of tuning needed still.
When I said built, I guess technically it's not a full build, but I did have the engine torn down completely except for the crank/pistons, and I changed the cams, springs, retainers, oil pump, did some mild head work and tapped in an oil-pressure cut off switch, so it was definitely a rebuild at least with enhancements. It's not like I just took the engine off the truck and popped it in the car.
I went driving a bit tonight... man I need an alignment, I'm squealing tires everywhere just driving in a straight line lol, and idle is a problem right now, the stock ECU is confuzzled, and closed loop /cold start fueling is causing me grief as expected. Lots of tuning needed still.
09-08-2007, 09:26 AM
#31
Originally Posted by DandyMax
When I said built, I guess technically it's not a full build, but I did have the engine torn down completely except for the crank/pistons, and I changed the cams, springs, retainers, oil pump, did some mild head work and tapped in an oil-pressure cut off switch, so it was definitely a rebuild at least with enhancements. It's not like I just took the engine off the truck and popped it in the car.
and idle is a problem right now, the stock ECU is confuzzled, and closed loop /cold start fueling is causing me grief as expected. Lots of tuning needed still.
09-08-2007, 09:39 AM
#33
Originally Posted by DandyMax
It's been over 11 months since I've had the pleasure of hearing my car run, or driving it for that matter. Well after countless delays and frustrations (for things outside my control) I've finally been able to get the DEK built and into the car (along with everything else from the old setup, plus a couple additions). Fired it up tonight, and man was it sweet music to my ears with the cutout open in the garage. The neighbors all came over to check it out - hah. I can't wait to drop the hammer on this thing, but I gotta break in a new clutch first... doh.
Sorry I know this is kind of a useless post, but I'll post up a video in a couple days so you can hear the engine running with the cams/Cattman headers/cutout etc. I'm just stoked this evening after being without my Max for so long.
Fired it up tonight, and man was it sweet music to my ears with the cutout open in the garage. The neighbors all came over to check it out - hah. I can't wait to drop the hammer on this thing, but I gotta break in a new clutch first... doh. Sorry I know this is kind of a useless post, but I'll post up a video in a couple days so you can hear the engine running with the cams/Cattman headers/cutout etc. I'm just stoked this evening after being without my Max for so long.
Oh and to add some technical merit, lol, I may also post up a picture of something that some 3.5 swappers using 3.0 timing stuff might be interested in - an alternative to having the cams drilled or getting adapters, if you have access to a machine shop/have one near you...
09-08-2007, 01:24 PM
#35
Originally Posted by DandyMax
The MAF or lack of has nothing to do with it..
Glad to see things are going as planned. I'm about to step off the deep end myself and buy a VQ35, get on FAST, and make large CC purchases on Greddy products.
09-09-2007, 12:28 AM
#36
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 1,113
Originally Posted by DandyMax
Yeah the break-in is going to take some will power. Only 700 more miles!
When I said built, I guess technically it's not a full build, but I did have the engine torn down completely except for the crank/pistons, and I changed the cams, springs, retainers, oil pump, did some mild head work and tapped in an oil-pressure cut off switch, so it was definitely a rebuild at least with enhancements. It's not like I just took the engine off the truck and popped it in the car.
I went driving a bit tonight... man I need an alignment, I'm squealing tires everywhere just driving in a straight line lol, and idle is a problem right now, the stock ECU is confuzzled, and closed loop /cold start fueling is causing me grief as expected. Lots of tuning needed still.
When I said built, I guess technically it's not a full build, but I did have the engine torn down completely except for the crank/pistons, and I changed the cams, springs, retainers, oil pump, did some mild head work and tapped in an oil-pressure cut off switch, so it was definitely a rebuild at least with enhancements. It's not like I just took the engine off the truck and popped it in the car.
I went driving a bit tonight... man I need an alignment, I'm squealing tires everywhere just driving in a straight line lol, and idle is a problem right now, the stock ECU is confuzzled, and closed loop /cold start fueling is causing me grief as expected. Lots of tuning needed still.
I sent you a PM and the main question I need answered is which car has the dek motors, so if you could reaply to my annoyingly long pm that would be great.
On topic, why did you put the stock ecu back in vs detuning the emanage? Does the wiring allow you to switch back easily?
Why did you tap the oil pressure cut off?
Do you do your own tunning? The reason I ask this is because I read your how-to on the emanage install ans you seem very knolageable with ecuu's.
Last question is just a regular question. Whats a closed loop? I know its with the maf, but what is it?
PS, Great write up on the gready emanage!
09-09-2007, 12:33 AM
#37
Guest
Posts: n/a
DE-K = 2000-2001
cause EU is a piggyback, you need an ECU to make EU work
he tapped one in, so that if he looses oil pressure the engine shuts off and he doesnt freeze it up like what happened to the previous engine
Originally Posted by spdfreak
On topic, why did you put the stock ecu back in vs detuning the emanage? Does the wiring allow you to switch back easily?
Originally Posted by spdfreak
Why did you tap the oil pressure cut off?
09-09-2007, 12:34 AM
#38
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 1,113
Originally Posted by Nealoc187
I am going to be making my own spacers either at work or on my buddy's CNC mill in his garage.
I have full access to a machine shop, but if I recall correctly they dont have any cnc machines, but I could be mistaken.
Can you pls find out the company of the machine along.with the model, i'm curious.
09-09-2007, 12:42 AM
#39
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 1,113
Originally Posted by DasYears
DE-K = 2000-2001
cause EU is a piggyback, you need an ECU to make EU work
he tapped one in, so that if he looses oil pressure the engine shuts off and he doesnt freeze it up like what happened to the previous engine
cause EU is a piggyback, you need an ECU to make EU work
he tapped one in, so that if he looses oil pressure the engine shuts off and he doesnt freeze it up like what happened to the previous engine
I was under the impression from the little that I read that The eu was an ecu, but thanks for the correction.
About the oil pressure switch, 2 questions. What causes the oil pressure to dip other than pump failure? And where do these get purchased and installed?
And last, all 2000, 2001 Maximas are de-k? That means my 2000 is dek. What are my benefits other than I know the im is differant?
09-09-2007, 07:24 AM
#40
Good Job DandyMax, looking forward too seeing that motor in action soon
I had 02 Pathfinder cams in my 99's DE along with 00vi, PF TB, and Hotshots..
after everything was tuned to 13.5AFR... I could put it on a G35x sedan..
the 3.5L cams are more aggressive than PF, so you should be seeing an EVEN fatter Midrange and SWEETer top-end, but because there's more lift/duration.. the low-end HP/TQ is lower (good for launching) and idle is a little lopy-er (but definitely not as lopy as JWT cams.....)
if you drive the car at 2000+ rpms you shouldn't notice anything out of the ordinary
somebody asked about installing cams with motor in the car..
Been there Done that.. prepare for a good day's work (if not more)
if you really want to make cam install 300% simpler..
1. be sure to set the crank to the mark at TDC on cyl1
2. remove the power steering reservoir and move it and lines to the right side..
3. disconnect the A/C compressor and move the hose all the way to the right of the engine bay. (for bolts clearance)
4. remove the alternator and the power steering pump (unbolt and move it over)
5. disconnect the timing chain mount and the transmision mount
6. start taking all the 10mm bolts off.
7. drop lower oil pan, there are 2 12mm bolts inside the pan securing the outer timing chain cover.
8. put a jack in the nub of the front of the crossmember, unscrew the 2 REAR crommember bolts HALFWAY, and unscrew the FRONT bolts OFF completely, dropping the front end of the crossmember slowly with the jack..
9. that should give you more than enough clearance to remove the outer timing chain cover, and clear that big bolt that sticks out.
10. (remove the manifold, valve covers, timing components, and install cams, this is the easy part LOL)
11. have fun with cleaning the timing chain cover surfaces before you apply new RTV.. make sure you apply it EVERYWHERE it needs to be, or you will probably have an oil seep later.
12. use the correct tightening bolt procedure and DON'T overtighten the bolts..
if you have worked on cars.. and are not afraid of tackling unexpected problems that may arise.. and of course have the '*****' and the patience to go through with it.. I don't foresee any problems.
spdfreak..
this is an ADVANCED PERFORMANCE section..
what's with all the n00b questions..
ie. if you don't know which motor you have.... go read the FAQ's..
you got the 5th gen forum for that beginner information..
I had 02 Pathfinder cams in my 99's DE along with 00vi, PF TB, and Hotshots..
after everything was tuned to 13.5AFR... I could put it on a G35x sedan..
the 3.5L cams are more aggressive than PF, so you should be seeing an EVEN fatter Midrange and SWEETer top-end, but because there's more lift/duration.. the low-end HP/TQ is lower (good for launching) and idle is a little lopy-er (but definitely not as lopy as JWT cams.....)
if you drive the car at 2000+ rpms you shouldn't notice anything out of the ordinary
somebody asked about installing cams with motor in the car..
Been there Done that.. prepare for a good day's work (if not more)
if you really want to make cam install 300% simpler..
1. be sure to set the crank to the mark at TDC on cyl1
2. remove the power steering reservoir and move it and lines to the right side..
3. disconnect the A/C compressor and move the hose all the way to the right of the engine bay. (for bolts clearance)
4. remove the alternator and the power steering pump (unbolt and move it over)
5. disconnect the timing chain mount and the transmision mount
6. start taking all the 10mm bolts off.
7. drop lower oil pan, there are 2 12mm bolts inside the pan securing the outer timing chain cover.
8. put a jack in the nub of the front of the crossmember, unscrew the 2 REAR crommember bolts HALFWAY, and unscrew the FRONT bolts OFF completely, dropping the front end of the crossmember slowly with the jack..
9. that should give you more than enough clearance to remove the outer timing chain cover, and clear that big bolt that sticks out.
10. (remove the manifold, valve covers, timing components, and install cams, this is the easy part LOL)
11. have fun with cleaning the timing chain cover surfaces before you apply new RTV.. make sure you apply it EVERYWHERE it needs to be, or you will probably have an oil seep later.
12. use the correct tightening bolt procedure and DON'T overtighten the bolts..
if you have worked on cars.. and are not afraid of tackling unexpected problems that may arise.. and of course have the '*****' and the patience to go through with it.. I don't foresee any problems.
spdfreak..
this is an ADVANCED PERFORMANCE section..
what's with all the n00b questions..
ie. if you don't know which motor you have.... go read the FAQ's..
you got the 5th gen forum for that beginner information..