For those who have bypassed their A/C
05-23-2007, 05:26 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 548
For those who have bypassed their A/C
I put a new clutch and pressure plate in my maxima the other day, and upon starting it up the A/C clutch went! Just my luck, right? Anyways...I'm not going to replace the compressor right now so I'd like to know if anybody knows the belt number for the belt I need to bypass it? I work in a shop as a tech but my parts guys had no listing...but I know it can be done. Anybody know? Thanks 
05-23-2007, 07:51 PM
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
first things first -- what makes you think your AC clutch failed?? normally these things don't just fail. double check your fuses and refrigerant charge levels (a low charge will disable the clutch to protect the compressor from damage).
2nd -- if you are able to isolate it to a bad clutch, do NOT replace the entire compressor. you can replace the clutch for far about $80 and not have to worry about doing a complete evac, new receiver/drier, and full recharge. this will save you $300+ and be less hassle. general rule with AC --- always avoid breaking into the freon system if possible.
this write up in the stickies covers everything you need to know to replace the clutch (although the write-up itself is geared toward replacing the pulley bearing, putting on a new clutch is much less work). you can buy a new clutch assembly from the re-builder in Florida mentioned at the end....
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...4&postcount=50
3rd -- there are at least 4 different compressors on the 4th gen, and at least 3 different AC pulley sizes, and at least 2 different AC bypass belt sizes. on my '99 w/ calsonic v618 compressor the bypass belt was 37". you should measure yours with string (with idler pulley adjuster in the "loose" position) to verify the proper belt size before you buy. go to Napa and tell them you need an "xx inch" 6 groove belt and it will take them 30 seconds to fetch you one. +/- 1/2 inch will work.
2nd -- if you are able to isolate it to a bad clutch, do NOT replace the entire compressor. you can replace the clutch for far about $80 and not have to worry about doing a complete evac, new receiver/drier, and full recharge. this will save you $300+ and be less hassle. general rule with AC --- always avoid breaking into the freon system if possible.
this write up in the stickies covers everything you need to know to replace the clutch (although the write-up itself is geared toward replacing the pulley bearing, putting on a new clutch is much less work). you can buy a new clutch assembly from the re-builder in Florida mentioned at the end....
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...4&postcount=50
3rd -- there are at least 4 different compressors on the 4th gen, and at least 3 different AC pulley sizes, and at least 2 different AC bypass belt sizes. on my '99 w/ calsonic v618 compressor the bypass belt was 37". you should measure yours with string (with idler pulley adjuster in the "loose" position) to verify the proper belt size before you buy. go to Napa and tell them you need an "xx inch" 6 groove belt and it will take them 30 seconds to fetch you one. +/- 1/2 inch will work.
05-24-2007, 06:51 PM
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 548
Thanks for the reply...the clutch is seizing up. I'm a mechanic, and I know it's the clutch. I was unaware that you could get a seperate clutch for our compressors because I could not get a part listing for it in our computer system, only the whole compressor. I do A/C clutches in Jeeps all the time...I know the proper procedures. I'm certified to do A/C work. In the meantime I wanted to bypass the A/C because I just threw a new clutch, pressure plate, and throwout bearing in the car which set me back a few bills and just don't feel like spending anymore money for parts right now. I work on other peoples' cars all day long...so I very rarely feel like working on my own anymore.
I thought about measuring with a string like you suggested to get a correct belt length but just supplying the parts guys with a length likely won't do me much good. They're not the brightest around here. I also prefer to use only Gatorback belts. Dayco is fine too....all others just tend to suck...especially Gates.
I'll just have to look into it more. Thanks for the info though
I thought about measuring with a string like you suggested to get a correct belt length but just supplying the parts guys with a length likely won't do me much good. They're not the brightest around here. I also prefer to use only Gatorback belts. Dayco is fine too....all others just tend to suck...especially Gates.
I'll just have to look into it more. Thanks for the info though
05-28-2007, 09:49 PM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 142
bhmax, my AC compressor is doing the exact same thing. Basically, it seizes ... It won't rotate ... even when I tried to rotate it by hand ... Ouchie ...
I'm taking a ... bus to my local NAPA tomorrow to get a bypass belt ... And thanks sky jumper for awesome suggestions and options ... I'll look into all of it.
Btw, when I refilled my AC ... I think I overcharged it somehow ... Because ... as of a few days ago, I checked it the included meter I got from the refrigerant kit, the dial jumped to the ... red area ... Should I have it evacuated ...? Is that why my AC compressor seizes? Thanks all.
I'm taking a ... bus to my local NAPA tomorrow to get a bypass belt ... And thanks sky jumper for awesome suggestions and options ... I'll look into all of it.
Btw, when I refilled my AC ... I think I overcharged it somehow ... Because ... as of a few days ago, I checked it the included meter I got from the refrigerant kit, the dial jumped to the ... red area ... Should I have it evacuated ...? Is that why my AC compressor seizes? Thanks all.
05-29-2007, 04:34 AM
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
if the clutch plate will not spin, 99% sure the problem is not the clutch, but a seized compressor - there is a difference. the compressor has internal bearings, similar to the rod bearings in an engine. if they are not properly lubricated, the compressor will seize. the oil is mixed in with the freon, and needs to be added when the system is charged.
if you look at the clutch, there's not much to it that can seize. the springs can break, but that would make it drag, not seize. the pulley bearing can seize, but the clutch will still spin. hence my question about the OP's diagnosis.
so the clutch itself is probably ok. but the compressor must be replaced/repaired. the compressor re-builder referenced in the stickies can rebuild it for about $150.
improperly charging the AC can seize the compressor bearings. most likely, you didn't add any/enough compressor oil to replace the oil that leaked out. or you used the wrong type of oil. the only way to properly charge a system is to completely evacuate the system of all freon & oil and start over. do a google search for "AC compressor black death kits"
NOTE: if your compressor seized, it spewed metal shavings into the system. the entire system must be completely flushed to removed contamination. also, you must replace the receiver/drier, and you should also replace the condenser (it is almost impossible to get the little bits of debris out of it). this must be done, or the new compressor will fail in short order.
if you look at the clutch, there's not much to it that can seize. the springs can break, but that would make it drag, not seize. the pulley bearing can seize, but the clutch will still spin. hence my question about the OP's diagnosis.
so the clutch itself is probably ok. but the compressor must be replaced/repaired. the compressor re-builder referenced in the stickies can rebuild it for about $150.
improperly charging the AC can seize the compressor bearings. most likely, you didn't add any/enough compressor oil to replace the oil that leaked out. or you used the wrong type of oil. the only way to properly charge a system is to completely evacuate the system of all freon & oil and start over. do a google search for "AC compressor black death kits"
NOTE: if your compressor seized, it spewed metal shavings into the system. the entire system must be completely flushed to removed contamination. also, you must replace the receiver/drier, and you should also replace the condenser (it is almost impossible to get the little bits of debris out of it). this must be done, or the new compressor will fail in short order.
05-29-2007, 06:21 AM
#6
05-29-2007, 06:35 AM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 142
All, just so you know
I got a 37.5" bypass belt. It didn't work. It's too loose or something. As when as I rev the engine, the belt squeal .... I think it was rubing against either the alternator or the engine because it was too loose.
I called NAPA. They only have either 36.25" or 37.25". I'm getting both belt and try them out. I'll post result this evening.
I got a 37.5" bypass belt. It didn't work. It's too loose or something. As when as I rev the engine, the belt squeal .... I think it was rubing against either the alternator or the engine because it was too loose.
I called NAPA. They only have either 36.25" or 37.25". I'm getting both belt and try them out. I'll post result this evening.
05-29-2007, 12:09 PM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 142
OK guys ... and girls, updates
On my 99 max GLE with ACC, the bypass belt length should be 37" +/- 1/8", not 1/2". I tried a 37 1/2" belt and it didn't work. It was too loose. Just so anyone who's going to buy a bypass belt know ...
Ok, up next, my AC compressor and drier is coming ... What options do I have?
Have the shop evacuate the AC system, installed the parts, flush the system and recharge for ... $480 (quoted)
Or ... have the shop evacuate the AC system
then I'll try to replace the parts
then drive to the shop to have the system flushed and recharged ...
for $120 (estimated) ...
What is a better choice? ... How long does it take to replace the AC compressor and drier? Do I really need a condenser when my AC compressor seizes (cannot even rotate the ring by hand)?
On my 99 max GLE with ACC, the bypass belt length should be 37" +/- 1/8", not 1/2". I tried a 37 1/2" belt and it didn't work. It was too loose. Just so anyone who's going to buy a bypass belt know ...
Ok, up next, my AC compressor and drier is coming ... What options do I have?
Have the shop evacuate the AC system, installed the parts, flush the system and recharge for ... $480 (quoted)
Or ... have the shop evacuate the AC system
then I'll try to replace the parts
then drive to the shop to have the system flushed and recharged ...
for $120 (estimated) ...
What is a better choice? ... How long does it take to replace the AC compressor and drier? Do I really need a condenser when my AC compressor seizes (cannot even rotate the ring by hand)?
05-29-2007, 01:33 PM
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
the procedure should be:
1) recover any old R134 still in there (unless it "happens" to leak out on its own)
2) flush the system as thoroughly as possible
3) replace the parts
-- adding proper amount/type of oil to compressor
4) deep vacuum evac (at least 30 minutes on the vac) *before* the new compressor is rotated (keeps the oil in)
5) recharge
-- you have to flush before you put the parts on, otherwise you'll clog up the new parts.
-- and you have to put the parts on before you evac.
I'd double check your cost estimates, 'cause I don't think you'll save much by trying to do part of the work yourself. they may not understand what you're trying to do.
if you don't replace the condenser, I'd stand over their shoulder when they do the flush to make sure they do it thoroughly. imagine trying to get little bits of metal out of a condenser core. how long before they quit and call it "good enough"...
re the belt -- it is +/- 1/2 inch from the *measured* length, not 37" +/- 1/2 inch. if you read my post, I said 37" worked for mine, or measure it and get a belt +/-1/2 inch from what you measured. on mine, it measured about 36.5 inches. I used a 36" belt the first time, and was able to force it on by prying the belt and turning the crank. next time I used a 37" to save the hassle.
1) recover any old R134 still in there (unless it "happens" to leak out on its own)
2) flush the system as thoroughly as possible
3) replace the parts
-- adding proper amount/type of oil to compressor
4) deep vacuum evac (at least 30 minutes on the vac) *before* the new compressor is rotated (keeps the oil in)
5) recharge
-- you have to flush before you put the parts on, otherwise you'll clog up the new parts.
-- and you have to put the parts on before you evac.
I'd double check your cost estimates, 'cause I don't think you'll save much by trying to do part of the work yourself. they may not understand what you're trying to do.
if you don't replace the condenser, I'd stand over their shoulder when they do the flush to make sure they do it thoroughly. imagine trying to get little bits of metal out of a condenser core. how long before they quit and call it "good enough"...
re the belt -- it is +/- 1/2 inch from the *measured* length, not 37" +/- 1/2 inch. if you read my post, I said 37" worked for mine, or measure it and get a belt +/-1/2 inch from what you measured. on mine, it measured about 36.5 inches. I used a 36" belt the first time, and was able to force it on by prying the belt and turning the crank. next time I used a 37" to save the hassle.
05-29-2007, 01:43 PM
#10
Originally Posted by sky jumper
improperly charging the AC can seize the compressor bearings. most likely, you didn't add any/enough compressor oil to replace the oil that leaked out. or you used the wrong type of oil. the only way to properly charge a system is to completely evacuate the system of all freon & oil and start over. do a google search for "AC compressor black death kits"
NOTE: if your compressor seized, it spewed metal shavings into the system. the entire system must be completely flushed to removed contamination. also, you must replace the receiver/drier, and you should also replace the condenser (it is almost impossible to get the little bits of debris out of it). this must be done, or the new compressor will fail in short order.
NOTE: if your compressor seized, it spewed metal shavings into the system. the entire system must be completely flushed to removed contamination. also, you must replace the receiver/drier, and you should also replace the condenser (it is almost impossible to get the little bits of debris out of it). this must be done, or the new compressor will fail in short order.
Had the same problem, charged system then it didnt work, whent back the guy did a recharge as explained above, been workin great since all for $50.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
05' MaximaMan
6th Generation Maxima (2004-2008)
2
10-08-2017 06:36 PM