texasmax

iTrader: (4)

Happy holidays everyone! Nothing like Christmas to get some work done.

So, I'm installing the UDP that's been in my garage for a year and changing the passenger side axle- and I'll tell you what, it's a heck of a lot easier to get at the power steering bolts while the axle's out

Q1- I've loosened the lock bolt and the adjustment bolt on the PS pump to the point I can loosen by hand, and loosened the rotator bolt on the driver's side of the pump out about a half inch (though it's nowhere close to finger-loose). The pulley won't budge. By what mechanism will the pump/pulley move? Does it rotate (I'm sure they don't call it the rotator bolt for nothing)- and which direction? Should I try and force it, or keep loosening the rotator bolt? The AC/alternator belt is already off- thanks to all the how-tos and great posts out there.

Q2- Since the y pipe and driver's side axle weekends of the past, I picked myself up a big-boy electric torque wrench (Ridgid R6300). Regardless of whether the torque capabilities of the wrench are correct (400+ ft-lbs), I know what it can do- it spins off axle hub nuts in about 3 seconds that I've personally killed myself on loosening and tightening with 3 feet of breaker bar. But, the crank pulley bolt won't budge, even after 30 seconds of going at it. Soaked it in PB Blaster overnight and same thing. Any ideas on this one?

Thanks!

gen4maxima536

iTrader: (14)

as far as Q1 one goes, there is another bolt on the back/driver side of the PS pump that your suppose to loosen to allow the whole pump to rotate, but i've done it with out loosing that back bolt.
i know its laid out in the MA section of the FSM

you also have to lock the flywheel when trying to take off the bolt holding the crank pulley, so the crank shaft can't spin. just making sure you covered that basis.
if your 5spd have an assistant put the car into 5th gear and hold brake pedal firmly while you loosen the bolt.
if your auto it should tell you how to take it off in the FSM or in a haynes manual

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

Q1: I agree - you need to find the pivot bolt and loosen it. Definitely much more do-able with the PS axle outof the way.

See this pic of the bolt:


Q2: I've never done the crank pulley, but consider these general ideas: You might need to apply some heat to the nut in case it's loc-tited. Be careful though - I would search and read the FSM to be sure that's safe to do or you might fry an oil seal or bearing nearby. I would also confirm if these nuts are loc-tited (see the FSM or Haynes). Usually though a propane torch on the nut only will not get the surrounding parts hot if you only do it for a few minutes, and that's enough to kill loc-tite.

Dave

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

For the crank pulley bolt, you can put a breaker bar on it and bump the engine over once or twice, that'll break it loose.

texasmax

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the replies everyone! Was interested about the heat idea- was about to go that route, but ended up soeaking it in PB for another few hours and then the impact took it right off no problem. Have read all the threads about locking the flywheel and wrenching it and the blip method as well, just felt like I wanted to get the investmnet out of the impact

And as far as the PS pump, I just wasn't loosening the adjustment bolt enough- had already loosened the pivot bolt.

Problems solved- thanks!