got vq30de-k 2day, where do i start on removing 00vi parts?

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10-30-2006, 10:11 PM

Ceasars Chariot

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Welcome to the 00VI for Dummies Thread !

it appears at present all the links do not work ? im not sure what happened on the forums to cause this ?

Welcome to the 00VI swap for dummies thread.

Im Ceasar, love Maxima's and love drag racing, but dont know diddly doo about mechanics. Got my engine today (vq30de-k), $526 USD and made it to the crib safely. So where do I go from here ? Why not start an 00VI swap for dummies thread to find out, and to help all the other dummies out in maxima.org land.

There is no such thing as a dumb question, just dummies asking them! So feel free to be dumb up in here, we all may learn something.

As more dummies come along, read the thread, do the swap, and work. We will end up with a large base of 00VI swap veterans on the loose! And hail, a bunch of faster 4th Gen Maximas out there too !

Feel free to ask questions in this thread (just like me), as I learn more, I can help more. And if you have the 00VI smarts, share people.

I have always had a weird Maxima Pride. Always wanting (especially the 4th gen Maximas) to be a great car out on the road. While we are owners, the more we help each other the more pride we can have in owning a Maxima !

I would also like to thank all the org members who are helping me out along the way. If I can successfully get through the OOVI swap then Im sure any Maxima.org member can. Until a few days ago, I had no clue how to remove a throttle body ? LOL ! If it were not for this 00VI for Dummies thread I wouldnt have gotten that far !

And now with the 00VI for Dummies thread, your 00VI swap is going to be that much easier. Lets GO FAST !
- ceasar

Website Links

Tatanko's Website - 00VI Swap Heaven
http://away.no-ip.org/maxima/ no longer works
http://tatanko.boredmder.com/00VI.html

VIAS Fix/Check - mhadford (cardomain)
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/763858/5

* VIAS Check Video Click Link Below

Misc. Trouble Shooting 00VI Video Click Link Below

Last edited by The Wizard; 02-28-2014 at 06:37 PM.

10-31-2006, 04:34 AM

scrhale

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Time out lol. Is your stock 3.0 built or you going to try to blow it first or something? Why bother swapping in the VI when you can just engine swap?

Definitely start by ripping off that nice looking upper plenum followed by the lower plenum. I guess to simplify life you can remove the throttle body from the upper plenum to make fitting easier when dropping it in your car.

I couldn't tell you how to take off the fuel rail/injectors.

10-31-2006, 05:11 AM

Kevlo911

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Remove the **** on top of the manifold. Remove the brackets from the rear of the engine and throw away. Remove the egr guide tube. Remove the bolts for the upper im and don't lose any of them. Remove the hoses on lower im and remove the lower im and don't lose the bolts.

10-31-2006, 07:17 AM

jmeister

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I'd also just do an engine swap if nothing is wrong with the DEK, put your headers, UDP & whatever else on & be done

10-31-2006, 07:22 AM

d00df00d

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Quote:

Originally Posted by scrhale

If you're not strongly attached to your current engine, just swap the whole DE-K in.

10-31-2006, 09:31 AM

Weimar Ben

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another advantage to swapping in the DE-K would be that the DE-K has hotter cams. It wouldn't be a whole lot more difficult to simply do the entire swap. The DE-K prolly has lower miles too.

10-31-2006, 11:05 AM

Duckman540i

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Couldn't you just swap the DE-K cams as well, instead of doing the motor swap?

10-31-2006, 11:22 AM

matty

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Your in the same boat i was in.

Just start tearing it down. Its really alot of fun. Keep everything in order and when you get down the block, make sure everything is ragged off. Alot of the wiring harness and stuff can be tossed along with some of the VI components. Keep all the vaccum lines and connectors cause it comes in handy if you swap in the motor. I dont know your future plans of this motor though.

How many miles on it ??

Old motor:

This was my DEK before the tear down. 8500 miles

Before being dropped in:

10-31-2006, 11:59 AM

Weimar Ben

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Duckman540i

Couldn't you just swap the DE-K cams as well, instead of doing the motor swap?

You could, but it would be just as easy to swap in the whole da*n thing. It would prolly be less work, cuz then you wouldn't have to mess around with the valve clearences.

10-31-2006, 12:15 PM

#10

LA02MAX

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Weimar Ben

You could, but it would be just as easy to swap in the whole da*n thing. It would prolly be less work, cuz then you wouldn't have to mess around with the valve clearences.

it would be MUCH easier just to swap the whole thing in...cam jobs are definitely not easy at all.

I'm also curious why you don't just swap in the whole DE-K, ceasar? Like someone mentioned before, it probably has less mileage than your current DE, correct?

10-31-2006, 12:19 PM

#11

1FSTMAX

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i agree with everyone.. just drop the whole engine in.. and get a 2k ecu..

10-31-2006, 12:20 PM

#12

matty

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Quote:

Originally Posted by 1FSTMAX

i agree with everyone.. just drop the whole engine in.. and get a 2k ecu..

Why get a 2K ECU ??

-matt

10-31-2006, 12:22 PM

#13

1FSTMAX

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Quote:

Originally Posted by matty

Why get a 2K ECU ??

-matt

he has an uncut harness... thats pretty much the only reason i posted that..

10-31-2006, 12:39 PM

#14

Curt

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Re the cams, I once checked out the published specs and found what amounted to only an insignificant difference in terms of lift or duration. No idea of what (if any) differences there might have been in the actual profile, but I suspect that if this was of any meaningful benefit lots of guys would be jumping on the cam-swap as a hot deal.
Re the teardown, I was in exactly the same boat a couple of years ago, and started out by shooting a whole bunch of photos from even angle so I would have some reference to look back at if I had doubts. Also took a bunch of shots during the disassembly. Memories aren't as good as pictures.

10-31-2006, 01:31 PM

#15

Weimar Ben

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Curt

It's not real significant, and if you're going to swap in cams, you swap in 3.5 cams or JWT cams. Def. not worth the hassle to swap in DE-K cams.

10-31-2006, 02:16 PM

#16

Ceasars Chariot

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1fstmax, interesting point (he has an uncut harness) although i dont know what im looking at. lol !

anyways, just getting started on pulling parts off, and see a part on the upper intake manifold that is broken. in photo below what is this piece circled ? mine is broken

mine

10-31-2006, 02:34 PM

#17

eckounltd287

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is the de-k swap direct? is there a right up on it.

10-31-2006, 03:31 PM

#18

nismology

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Weimar Ben

another advantage to swapping in the DE-K would be that the DE-K has hotter cams.

Only the exhaust cams have slightly more lift. The intake cams have indentical lift but less duration. This is why the DE-K has more low-end than the DE.

10-31-2006, 04:16 PM

#19

Ceasars Chariot

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anyone know anything about my post #16 ?

10-31-2006, 04:42 PM

#20

GoalieKeg

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Quote:

Originally Posted by d00df00d

If you're not strongly attached to your current engine, just swap the whole DE-K in.

I said this in the 4th gen forums to another orger with a complete DE-K motor, and everybody thought I was nuts...

n00bs...

10-31-2006, 04:49 PM

#21

Ceasars Chariot

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well i will always have the engine to do the swap later, a friend is going to help me do the oovi swap and teach me along the way, would cost me 1000 dollars (only called one pllace to do the engine swap + extras), also what if this engine is a crapbag ? ROFL ! just not ready to do the dance just yet.

since i need to get racing at the end of this month, best route for me is to do oovi swap, and have money let over to installing and tuning the EU. i guess anyways. im all mixed up on what is left to remove the upper IM.

are these the 3 rear coils ? and do they have to be taken off b4 the upper will come off ?

edit: Doesnt look like they have to come off, but have been trying to uplug each one with no luck, must be super glued on or something, is there a trick to removing the plug in things ?

---

10-31-2006, 04:50 PM

#22

JeEvE

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Ceasars Chariot

anyone know anything about my post #16 ?

Not possitive what is was used for in a 2k Max, but on mine, its vac for the brake booster.

Yea, those are the rear coils, might as well take em out now so they dont get in the way when pulling the upper manifold off.

10-31-2006, 07:11 PM

#23

Weimar Ben

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Ceasars Chariot

edit: Doesnt look like they have to come off, but have been trying to uplug each one with no luck, must be super glued on or something, is there a trick to removing the plug in things ?

---

You have to press down (direction of the arrows on the connector) on the green tabs while pulling on the connecter. It's a goofy design, but it's more secure than the old ones.

10-31-2006, 07:13 PM

#24

matty

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For those connectors, you push and pull. That little green peice slides in and releases.

Post #16 is Brake Booster

-matt

10-31-2006, 07:47 PM

#25

JeEvE

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Quote:

Originally Posted by matty

For those connectors, you push and pull. That little green peice slides in and releases.

Post #16 is Brake Booster

-matt

Using a screwdriver to push in the tab on the connector makes it a lot easier to get off.

11-01-2006, 12:13 AM

#26

Ceasars Chariot

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making progress, was about to give up until talking with curt and reading post 23-24-25. Flathead screw driver and push pull technique was the ticket.

My progress:

might need better photo

- Managed to get the upper IM off, throttle body, and 3 rear coils. The key to the whole thing was getting the harness crap out of the way first (thanks curt). How people do this with the engine in the car is beyond me. On a positive note at least im learning. Even though I may hold maxima.org record for taking off upper intake manifold. (All day)

From the second photo above are those the pesky california swirl valves ? Or do i need a better angle and photo ? If so is it tough to remove those ?

- in main photo above, I still need to remove rear valve cover, i guess the complete wiring harness, fuel rail, and lower intake manifold.

* in what order should I do this or does it matter ?
* any does and donts on the wiring harness ? (example if i have to cut anything, what to do as for as length?)
* is the rest of this stuff easier to take off than the upper intake manifold ?

* just need to know what all else to pull of this thing before I take the parts over to be put on.

Also it sucks about the upper intake manifold being broken on that end piece, how lame ! guess that is going to set me back awhile on a solution to fix it.

11-01-2006, 12:46 AM

#27

Ceasars Chariot

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Progress Photos:

Part Weigh In and Questions:

throttle body

5th Gen Upper Intake Manifold

11-01-2006, 03:22 AM

#28

JeEvE

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Yea, those are te swirl valves, I have them also and plan to take them out later. Theres a rod that goes through holding the valves so when you remove them, you have to seal the holes with JB Stick.

You should be fine with removing the fuel rail, lower intake manifold and then valve cover. As for the wiring harness, I dont think your going to need it. If your going to be using the DE-K injectors, you will need to cut off the plugs and splice them into your harness.

Heres my old DE-K swap thread, should help some: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=422573

That part under the throttle body is the IACV, I believe with that still on it will hit the EGR and you do not need it if you going to be using your 4th gen IACV. I just cut out a cover plate out off aluminum and bolted it on.

11-01-2006, 06:22 AM

#29

VQ20

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Ceasars Chariot

- Managed to get the upper IM off, throttle body, and 3 rear coils. The key to the whole thing was getting the harness crap out of the way first (thanks curt). How people do this with the engine in the car is beyond me. On a positive note at least im learning. Even though I may hold maxima.org record for taking off upper intake manifold. (All day)

I in de same boat with you. Did it on my Vq20 while the engine was in the car, to clean injectors. Who tell me do that!!!! I started at 9am and finished after 5pm. Got real cuts also. Some tight spaces to work in by the firewall.

11-01-2006, 09:15 AM

#30

SPiG

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You are going to have to seal off that broken hole on that end. That sucks.

If you can/want to then try to get rid of those swirl valves. There should be some write up on how to do it.

Besides that all you have to do is swap everything over and solder the top feed injector clips. It is a lot easier with the engine out of the car, and it will help you see where everything goes.

His engine is still going strong (still running 13s/very low 14s at upper 90s in the 1/4 NA, no VIM, on street tires) so he really doesn't need to swap the entire engine. Knowing Ceasar an entire engine swap wouldn't be easy for him anyway. Swapping the IM is much easier, with far less work, and he still has a spare DEK for that just in case factor. If he wanted to do some other crazy things like cams or engine work then yeah I would say swap the engine in.

11-01-2006, 12:39 PM

#31

Ceasars Chariot

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vq20 ha ! cuts and scratches ? i can hardly move my fingers this morning, rofl ! thats what sucks for me learning, i could have saved so much time, and used 80% less fighting and energy if I only knew what I was doing.

Will start back at it this morning. I talked with curt and he seems to have a fix for that end part thats broken on the upper intake manifold.

yeah on the engine, i wouldnt mind trying a swap but i would have to pay 1000 dollars, and just not willing to take the chance at this point in time, if the engine was crapped out, then out would have to go back to the oovi swap.

interesting on the 2000 tb that the lower part is iacv ? how does stephens iacv adapter plate work into all this, and those fuel rail off fittings ?

11-01-2006, 02:04 PM

#32

DandyMax

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The fuel rail off-fitting goes in place of the damper on the front arm of the 5th gen fuel rail. The 4th gen IACV adapter plate will go on the back of the IACV, which is currently mounted on the back of your USIM behind the TB, and allow you to then mount the IACV remotely and run a hose into the 5th gen UM.

11-01-2006, 03:23 PM

#33

Ceasars Chariot

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in gtr riders thread i see information on making sure you label all the hoses, is this more to do when taking the parts off the 4th gen engine ? when i removed the upper IM off the 5th gen, honestly i didnt see many hoses, sure there were some on the top brackets but on the left side there was only two hoses one bigger one going to a nipple on the rear valve cover, and a smaller on going to some strange Z looking nipple thing.

guess what im trying to ask is am i suppose to be labeling this stuff now or take all the notes when pulling the parts off my 4th gen engine ?

11-01-2006, 03:54 PM

#34

Ceasars Chariot

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ok I removed the right side rear oovi mounting bracket but on the left side bracket there is a light blue connector attached to it. Will I need to keep the connector and wires or do I pull all that off the bracket ?

included some photos, and all the rusty egr stuff is crap. looked in the egr tube and its full of freaking black goo and complete a total mess. i have a good mind to block off egr and bypass thie whole egr system, what a pile of junk.. pros and cons of not using egr ?

11-01-2006, 06:02 PM

#35

whitemax21

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Quote:

Originally Posted by JeEvE

I was wondering if you noticed a difference in the de-k vs the de after you got the bugs worked out and the vi operating correctly?

11-01-2006, 06:10 PM

#36

matty

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Ceasars Chariot

That connector and line is the EGR Temp sensor. It pretty much does nothing. Your 4th gen has on.

That black bulb looking thing is the Electronically Controlled EGR Valve. Will not work on the 4th gen Maxima unless its a late style 99'

-matt

11-01-2006, 06:18 PM

#37

Ceasars Chariot

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matt so what you are saying is to take the bracket and leave all this stuff behind ?

11-01-2006, 06:25 PM

#38

Ceasars Chariot

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how to remove and where do i cut the injector wires

11-01-2006, 06:27 PM

#39

matty

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Just cut. Leave yourself 5-6-7 inches to work with. Leave that rear harness in tact. Then the rest of that entire Harness can come off and get junked.