restoring the "pep" in your maxima
#1
restoring the "pep" in your maxima
back in 1995, i know my maxima drove very differently than it does now. i miss the pep it used to have even a couple of years ago! how do i get that back? a tune up? i did one like 2 years ago and replaced the spark plugs, did an oil change, etc. all the stuff u get done in a tune-up. would it help if i did another one now? do denso iridium spark plugs and all that stuff go bad after like 2 years? and i've changed my oil recently and did seafoam recently so what else can i do besides replace the engine and drop a 3.5 in?
would dropping a new tranny in restore the pep a lot? like does a tranny with 146,000 miles on it really act different than one with 50,000 miles on it? just want the best bang for my buck. i wanna see results!! i know other people are in my position!
would dropping a new tranny in restore the pep a lot? like does a tranny with 146,000 miles on it really act different than one with 50,000 miles on it? just want the best bang for my buck. i wanna see results!! i know other people are in my position!
#2
my personal reccomendation would be an engine rebuild. clean it out, rehone the cylinders change valve seals etc and it should be a noticeable difference. also while your at it you can have the valves ported also.. but thats just my opinion.
#8
I check some the sensors your mass air flow sensor maybe just getting old. Check the fuel filter too if it has never been changed. At 146K u maybe losing compression if thats the case then it may be time for a rebuild
#18
Originally Posted by busterdawg22
do denso iridium spark plugs and all that stuff go bad after like 2 years?
Uhhh Get those plugs out!!!!! Put NGK platinum. There a power loss right there.
Have you checked your codes to see if you got a bad KS?
#20
I'm not trying to get this pissing war going but:
The 2.0 L DOHC (1998 cc) SR20DE initially produced 140 PS (102 kW), later increasing to 160 PS through the use of Nissan's VTC variable valve timing system in the S14 and S15 Nissan Silvia. It was built from 1990 through 2002. Bore and stroke are both 86mm. It uses SEFI.
It is used in the following vehicles:
1991-1994 Nissan Sentra SE-R (140 hp SAE Net)
1991-1994 Nissan NX2000 (140 hp SAE)
1995-1998 Nissan 200SX SE-R (140 hp SAE)
1999 Nissan Sentra SE-Limited (140 hp SAE)
2000-2001 Nissan Sentra SE (145 hp SAE)
1991-2002 Infiniti G20 (140–145 hp SAE)
U13 Nissan Bluebird
P10/P11 Nissan Primera (150 hp)
S13/S14/S15 Nissan Silvia (160 hp)
Nissan 180SX
N14/N15 Nissan Pulsar / Almera (143 hp)
N15 Nissan Pulsar Autech (173 hp)
Nissan R'nessa B,G, and X
Nissan C23/C24 Serena
SR20DE is what I meant, no neo VVL blah blah...
The 2.0 L DOHC (1998 cc) SR20DE initially produced 140 PS (102 kW), later increasing to 160 PS through the use of Nissan's VTC variable valve timing system in the S14 and S15 Nissan Silvia. It was built from 1990 through 2002. Bore and stroke are both 86mm. It uses SEFI.
It is used in the following vehicles:
1991-1994 Nissan Sentra SE-R (140 hp SAE Net)
1991-1994 Nissan NX2000 (140 hp SAE)
1995-1998 Nissan 200SX SE-R (140 hp SAE)
1999 Nissan Sentra SE-Limited (140 hp SAE)
2000-2001 Nissan Sentra SE (145 hp SAE)
1991-2002 Infiniti G20 (140–145 hp SAE)
U13 Nissan Bluebird
P10/P11 Nissan Primera (150 hp)
S13/S14/S15 Nissan Silvia (160 hp)
Nissan 180SX
N14/N15 Nissan Pulsar / Almera (143 hp)
N15 Nissan Pulsar Autech (173 hp)
Nissan R'nessa B,G, and X
Nissan C23/C24 Serena
SR20DE is what I meant, no neo VVL blah blah...
#22
You probably need to replace the knock sensor.
Mine was down on power when I bought it, especially on the low end. It was ALL OUT or nothing at all on the pedal. I did a 3-step Fuel Injection Cleaning (Treatment in the tank, cleaner fed through a vacuum line, and oil conditioner.) It helped but didn't fix the problem. Performed a tune-up with Denso Iridiums. It helped but didn't fix the problem. Replaced the fuel filter (with the 300ZX filter) , it didn't do anything for me (But I know I did the right thing by maintaining it.)
Turns out it was throwing a "silent code" in the obd-2. Knock sensor circuit malfunction. Replaced the knock sensor, now it feels like the 15 second car it once was.
Now I gotta work on that part! The car has 118k miles, so yours with 140k might just have a tired motor, I know my Mustang with 138k is tired!
Mine was down on power when I bought it, especially on the low end. It was ALL OUT or nothing at all on the pedal. I did a 3-step Fuel Injection Cleaning (Treatment in the tank, cleaner fed through a vacuum line, and oil conditioner.) It helped but didn't fix the problem. Performed a tune-up with Denso Iridiums. It helped but didn't fix the problem. Replaced the fuel filter (with the 300ZX filter) , it didn't do anything for me (But I know I did the right thing by maintaining it.)
Turns out it was throwing a "silent code" in the obd-2. Knock sensor circuit malfunction. Replaced the knock sensor, now it feels like the 15 second car it once was.
Now I gotta work on that part! The car has 118k miles, so yours with 140k might just have a tired motor, I know my Mustang with 138k is tired!
#24
with all that money going into removing the engine and all that cleaning u might as well get a 3.5 might be a little bit more, but well worth the money u put into a 3.5 u'll beat any 5th Gen stock out there with a 3.5 engine + 4th Gen Light weight
#26
Originally Posted by Cheezwiz
3.5 is definitely the way to go.
But we're talking about quick fixes, not engine swaps
But we're talking about quick fixes, not engine swaps
#28
Originally Posted by Cheezwiz
3.5 is definitely the way to go.
But we're talking about quick fixes, not engine swaps
But we're talking about quick fixes, not engine swaps
#30
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Tired ... Mine has 234k and still pulls harder than it ever has.
exactly. what is the deal with everyone agreeing that the engine needs to be rebuilit at 146k? my last maxima ran as strong at 180k as it did at 96k and had LOTS more life on the engine. sometimes i think you guys are just like lemmings, dont think for yourselves, just agree with someone else
#33
Originally Posted by acidspit86
exactly. what is the deal with everyone agreeing that the engine needs to be rebuilit at 146k? my last maxima ran as strong at 180k as it did at 96k and had LOTS more life on the engine. sometimes i think you guys are just like lemmings, dont think for yourselves, just agree with someone else
#34
Originally Posted by |3ourne
im surprised no one recommended an MAF change . I might be a noob but it seems that changing the MAF definitely helped alot of ppl get their pep back.
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