Big 3??
05-18-2006, 05:09 AM
#2
http://forum.sounddomain.com/forum/u...=5;t=007801;p=
from stickies. this will work better than any silly cap
from stickies. this will work better than any silly cap
05-18-2006, 06:19 PM
#4
Originally Posted by mendon99
http://forum.sounddomain.com/forum/u...=5;t=007801;p=
from stickies. this will work better than any silly cap
from stickies. this will work better than any silly cap
05-18-2006, 07:16 PM
#6
Basically run atleast a 4awg wire (inline fuse it optional, better if you do have 1) from your alternator to your battery positive (+).
Run another atleast 4awg from your engine to the chassis, and 1 more from the chassis to the battery negative (-)
Now ofcourse you could throw in another ground in here & there, but its not really necessary. Dont forget to scrape/sand the paint in the area your going to bolt the wired down to.
Run another atleast 4awg from your engine to the chassis, and 1 more from the chassis to the battery negative (-)
Now ofcourse you could throw in another ground in here & there, but its not really necessary. Dont forget to scrape/sand the paint in the area your going to bolt the wired down to.
05-20-2006, 07:40 AM
#14
Look around your house and car over 90% of the wiring is smaller than 4 gauge.
I'd recommend getting something bigger than 5 guage being that the factory wiring appears to be 4 gauge. You should just go all the way for 0 gauge. Try knukonceptz.com 0 gauge kompressed (or whatever its called) or ebay and just get the cheapest ones
I'd recommend getting something bigger than 5 guage being that the factory wiring appears to be 4 gauge. You should just go all the way for 0 gauge. Try knukonceptz.com 0 gauge kompressed (or whatever its called) or ebay and just get the cheapest ones
05-20-2006, 03:55 PM
#19
Originally Posted by willard00
where the hell do u get wire smaller than 4 gauge? i dont think ive ever seen it before...
Its cheaper then most of the name brand ones, works just as well.https://weldingsupply.securesites.co...F:OR:terms::PA
Regular 1/0 would be MORE then enough.
05-21-2006, 10:50 AM
#20
Originally Posted by slickrick
factory wiring is not 4 gauge in my maxima...more like at least 8.
05-21-2006, 01:55 PM
#21
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 29
nobody would put extra thick wire on stock speakers.
only possibility is that the person that had it before had aftermarket speakers, but back the oem ones, and left his old wirng. not likely, but not impossible. no way that is stock wiring.
only possibility is that the person that had it before had aftermarket speakers, but back the oem ones, and left his old wirng. not likely, but not impossible. no way that is stock wiring.
05-21-2006, 02:17 PM
#22
Originally Posted by ValveStemThief
nobody would put extra thick wire on stock speakers.
only possibility is that the person that had it before had aftermarket speakers, but back the oem ones, and left his old wirng. not likely, but not impossible. no way that is stock wiring.
only possibility is that the person that had it before had aftermarket speakers, but back the oem ones, and left his old wirng. not likely, but not impossible. no way that is stock wiring.
05-22-2006, 06:34 AM
#23
Originally Posted by ValveStemThief
nobody would put extra thick wire on stock speakers.
only possibility is that the person that had it before had aftermarket speakers, but back the oem ones, and left his old wirng. not likely, but not impossible. no way that is stock wiring.
only possibility is that the person that had it before had aftermarket speakers, but back the oem ones, and left his old wirng. not likely, but not impossible. no way that is stock wiring.
05-23-2006, 04:23 AM
#25
so where exactly did people put the wire that goes on the engine? cause i know if you have current flowing through your pistons, thats not good at all and can cause accelerated wear/burning. pictures are nice 
also, im a little confused about this: do i take to stock wiring from my battery completely out and not use it?
also, im a little confused about this: do i take to stock wiring from my battery completely out and not use it?
05-23-2006, 07:46 AM
#26
NOOOOO!!! 
Leave the OEM wiring in place. If you try to replace them, its just opening up a can o worms. More time involved then necessary at that point.
Basically your adding to it. The thing that really makes this simple is IMO is if you have a battery with dual mounting area. Posts on top & side posts (Yellow top personally) I used the top posts for the OEM as well as to run the main power wires to the amps.
The side posts I used only for big 3 type add ons. The 1 ( and only ) positive wire your going to need to run is from the alternator to the battery. You can run it from most any path, just keep it away from things that will cut it (basically use common sense)
The grounds, you can sand paper down any area on the frame below the battery. Run a wire from there straight to the battery negative. Now from the engine, you can do a few things but the main one is fine any spot (there are a few) to attach a connector to, run that wire to your chassis. It could be a bit away from were you mounted the negative from the battery to the frame, or you could use the same location.
That should pretty much cover it. Just make 100% sure you run the positive in a path that wont end up getting cut later down the road from vibration. Put a loom on it to protect it if necessary. If the exposed positive touches any part of the car, its going to be an interesting situation.
Leave the OEM wiring in place. If you try to replace them, its just opening up a can o worms. More time involved then necessary at that point.
Basically your adding to it. The thing that really makes this simple is IMO is if you have a battery with dual mounting area. Posts on top & side posts (Yellow top personally) I used the top posts for the OEM as well as to run the main power wires to the amps.
The side posts I used only for big 3 type add ons. The 1 ( and only ) positive wire your going to need to run is from the alternator to the battery. You can run it from most any path, just keep it away from things that will cut it (basically use common sense)
The grounds, you can sand paper down any area on the frame below the battery. Run a wire from there straight to the battery negative. Now from the engine, you can do a few things but the main one is fine any spot (there are a few) to attach a connector to, run that wire to your chassis. It could be a bit away from were you mounted the negative from the battery to the frame, or you could use the same location.
That should pretty much cover it. Just make 100% sure you run the positive in a path that wont end up getting cut later down the road from vibration. Put a loom on it to protect it if necessary. If the exposed positive touches any part of the car, its going to be an interesting situation.
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