GBAUER

iTrader: (2)

I'm showing both codes:
P1448: EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve Open
P0455 - EVAP Control System Gross Leak

I assume that the second is caused by the first just reading their definitions. Anybody else run into this? If so, any easy fixes? Any idea where this valve is (can you post a pic?)? It's causing a hissing sound and if it's run for too long without clearing the code, the car doesn't want to run at high RPM's well and has a definite loss of power throughout the RPM range. It also seems to be hurting my gas milage a little as well. Any suggestions? Cash is tight right now, so cheaper is definitly better for the time being.

GBAUER

iTrader: (2)

Also, while looking online for pointers, I found this site that might be very useful for code reading and diagnosing: http://www.nissanhelp.com/Ownership/Common/codes3.htm

But not as good as this one (more detail on my codes at least):

http://forums.maxima.org/printthread.php?t=391338

Thought it might help others.

GBAUER

iTrader: (2)

Bump. Need help guys!

GBAUER

iTrader: (2)

Found it at the NYCmaxima forums! Thanks guys in NY for letting me steal some info from ya! Here's the post from Dj42o96maX (I don't think he's on this board, but I still want to give him props):

"Here's your answer:
The EVAP codes you are getting are directly related to your
'vent control valve'. This is VERY COMMON on this generation
Maxima. Up under yer car behind the left rear wheel is your
EVAP canister. (black plastic box) Your vent control valve is
bolted directly to this canister, with 2 screws. There should
be a vacuum line connected to it. Be sure it IS, and that it
looks like it's in good condition.
These valves are notorious for going bad, even more
so than the ignition coil packs! They dont cause any
decrease in performance, but it usually decreases gas mileage,
and it will cause it to fail emissions testing. But worst of all, it
makes that damn MIL light on the dash flash...
It'll cost ya about $60 from the dealer.. have yer VIN ready..
there are 2 different ones for this generation: 1 with a nipple
and o-ring, the other with no nipple (requires separate o-ring).
Part #'s: 14935-54u04 OR 14935-54u06

Don't ask me how I know all this.."


Anyway, I'm heading out to my car now to look at the valve.


Mods: add this to the "how-to" list of codes and their solutions please.

rbrown81

iTrader: (3)

Hehehe... you said nipple.

Nice find on the information though

GBAUER

iTrader: (2)

Said it twice

darrick04

Alright, I had the same issue... The first time the SES light came on, I bought the actual Vent Control Valve, which they gave me a cut on for $85/retailed at $109... After I installed that the SES light comes back on in about 300 miles. So then I bought a new gas cap thinking that could be the cause... I didn't clear the code I just let it "cycle out". So about three days later the SES light is back on. I checked the vaccum lines or w/e they are and they didn't appear to be damaged. But I guess I should try again and see if there are any loose connections. Should this be the culprit I will keep you updated, because I can't stand that light, and worse than that my mpg's are suffering.. I am only getting about 21 mpg, used to getting 24 mpg. Anyone else have other solutions to offer?

darrick04

anyone know of any solution besides what i have already addressed?

neuman

I'm having the same same problem. I am about to order vent control valve myself. The evap canister itself may also be leaking charcoal particles triggering the mil.

Max51

Yeah check to see if the canister itself is leaking charcaol and or the lines are clogged with charcoal. I think there is a port somewhere in the engine bay to blow out the lines to clear them. I had the same thing and got by the dealer for $400. The memory of it still hurts. I wish I knew more about the evap system when I had that problem.

schadaga

My SES light is glowing too. I got it checked at Auto ZOne and got the code. Code is P1456. I checked the list and it means EVAP control system small leak (positive Pressure) No idea what this means. Is this also connected with the EVAP Canister???
Can anybody help...

darrick04

Ok got the chance to take it to the dealership last week... they had my car for approximately 5 hours... They ran the scanner (it wound up dying, so they didnt charge me) but essentially told me what I already knew, that it was a PO455. With already knowing I had replaced the gas cap and the Purge Control Valve, they looked specifically for loose, bent, cracked, or leaking hoses... Like I said, 5 hours later and they found nothing.. Yet the light is STILL on. This week I averaged 23.7 mpg, mix of highway and city... So I am not completely sure that it is affecting my mileage, but something still feels weird about it to me! Anyone else know of anything I can try to address this problem?

MaxDom03

My car used to throw PO455 all the time, sometimes it would go off for weeks then come back. One day after some research I bought a new gas cap and it fixed it right up. The old gas cap seemed like a cheap aftermarket replacement the previous owner had. I got the locking on from Courtesy Nissan for like $15.

But you said you tried a new gas cap...did you get a quality replacement one?

Barc

iTrader: (2)

I had this problem (P1448 and P0455). $350 will cure it. What has to be done is both parts, the canister and the vent valve, must be replaced and these cost roughly $275 for both parts (delivered). Nissan dealerships should have the parts in stock or you can get them online for a little cheaper. They also carry the little tool (in the garage) to aide in removing them. It should take about 20 minutes with the right mechanic. You could do it yourself but since I didn't have the tool and didn't want to risk anything, I had my Nissan dealership do it.

Also, if you have this done, remember that the new valve is a little different than the old one so it WILL make some noise when its working, i.e. when you drive in warm weather and the gas is giving off vapors, the valve will work and be a little louder than the old one so you will probably hear it. It sounds kind of like a groan but it goes away in about 5 - 10 minutes and you probably won't even notice it unless you park in a garage. There is nothing wrong with the valve but it does kind of startle you the first time you hear it. <- Personal experience speaking there.

Oh, btw, its not covered under most Nissan extended warranties... And as MaxDom says, if it's only the P0455 code, its more than likely just the gas cap but could be a vent line problem or possibly a canister problem.

darrick04

brand new OEM gas cap, the "highest" quality without going aftermarket

jeremyd72

Barc, what kind of tool do you need. I have these codes on mine. I guess I need to try a new cap first. Do you still have the part numbers handy for these parts you needed, do you?

Jeremy

darrick04

I double checked everything and noticed on the actual canister there was a TINY crack near the back of it, so I used some silicone and sealed it.. Reset the ECU and it hasn't come back on in 600+ miles!

Barc

iTrader: (2)

No idea what the tool is. I'm sure you could probably ask at the dealership what sort of tool is needed. Autozone or Advance may have them but you'll probably have to know what to ask for. Sorry I couldn't be more help.

chr0nos

iTrader: (1)

just came back from a nissan dealership with the evap purge valve. the part is $95+tax in cincinnati. the sales guy was the most knowlegable person in any dealership i have been. he said these are known to go bad, especially on 1997+ pathfinders. they have the same engine, i beleive. the main cause for this OVERFILLING THE GAS TANK. he said when you overfill, it goes into the charcoal canisher. then, when you start the car, it blows into the purge valve, and screwes it up. if the valve replacement does not fix the problem, the canister is around $175. sometimes both have to be replaced. i will post the part number tomorrow, when i try to replace it tomorrow afternoon.

GBAUER

iTrader: (2)

OK, now I'm stuck. Replaced both the purge valve and evap canister and STILL have the light. Any other suggestions, guys? I've checked all the hoses and connections (both hoses and electrical), the valve opens and closes, and both the valve and the canister is new.

Barc

iTrader: (2)

I'm sure you have but did you remember to reset the ECU? Also, if you haven't, replace the gas cap.

chr0nos

iTrader: (1)

could there be a hole in one of the hoses? maybe disconnect them again, and try to blow in one end of the hose (somewhere in the engine bay??) and see if it comes out the end by the canister. i dont know, you may be able to use a smoke machine to see if there are other holes in the hose.

GBAUER

iTrader: (2)

Did it once by the up, up, down, down, left, right, left, right, b, a, select, start method. Stayed off for a while. Came back on and I went to autozone, read the same codes, thought it might not have stayed cleared so I reset it again. Two trips later, it's back on. Some good news: I have my power and gas milage back (28 mpg highway ). Bad news: can't get rid of that damn light!

replaced gas cap a while back

Barc

iTrader: (2)

I'm with chronos in thinking it could be a hose (or tube or something) or connection issue with said hose. It may be crimped or possibly have a hole. There's not a whole lot that it could be if you installed the parts correctly. Maybe the sensor itself is bad or not connected? That would throw a code if it could not be read.

You may want to take everything back off and reinstall. I know it might sound silly but I've done that before and had success... and still had the problem but at least I knew it wasn't a bad part I had installed.

DaBoxSE

iTrader: (5)

I also have this code... What does the vent control or purge valve look like? I looked under there, but not sure which one it is....

chr0nos

iTrader: (1)

i threw the old one out, otherwise i would have taken a pic for you. go to your dealer, and ask for this valve. it's between $85-95. you DO NOT have to get the whole assembly, even if they tell you so. this valve can be purchased separately from the canister. you can't see if the valve is actually bad or not. the spring inside that lets the gases out is rusted sometimes, and will not close the valve properly. once you disconnect the three hoses, and three bolts, and take off the canister, it's pretty easy to see the purge valve. it's attached with 2 screws to the canister. you should soak it in pblaster or wd40 prior to taking off. i broke one of my bolts, even after soaking in both for 30 mins. these suckers get really corroded, and if you break both of them, you either have to glue the valve to the canister, or get the whole assembly (valve+canister=$225).

jimmycapp

Hate to bring this back from the dead, but I just pulled a p0455 and a p1448 off my car. Has anyone with this problem sucessfully fixed it? (GBAUER)




James

Barc

iTrader: (2)

Yes, but I took it to the dealership to have it done since I was VERY pressed for time. They replaced the valve and the cannister assembly (check around on pricing and see if your dealership will match prices). It was a few hundred bucks but it solved the problem... As I said in Post #14, it only takes a mechanic with a lift a few minutes to fix it.

darrick04

Actually i checked everything... replaced the purge control valve, didn't solve the problem.. Then i looked again, after lifting the car up at the mechanics and noticed a TINY TINY small crack in the actual gray plastic box (under the car near the gas tank area). So I used some sealant to cover the crack and it hasn't come on since (now over 5 months).

GBAUER

iTrader: (2)

OMG! Talk about back from the dead!

Well, I'll give my update: found out that I'm a true retard . I put the plug in upside down. Now it's on right and the light is long gone.

chr0nos

iTrader: (1)

well, at least we put this issue to rest. you were the last missing link in getting the permanent answer to this problem. do you think this thread should be added to the SES codes sticky?

Dust N Bones

iTrader: (1)

Why wouldn't it be covered under Nissan's extended warranty's? These warranty's are becoming useless. I'm getting a P0455 code now too. Where can I get an OEM gas cap the cheapest? I might as well try that first.

Barc

iTrader: (2)

I don't know why but when I had this problem, I looked up the extended warranties (Nissan warranties) and it wasn't covered by most of them. The only ones that covered them were the top 2... I had #3... most folks have #3 or 4 or 5 or... You get the picture. Hell, even the service manager looked in the book, online, and TRIED to make it covered but the warranty code for my car just kicked it back out. I have to admit, they did their best to get it covered, especially when I told them I was buying the parts for less than they were going to sell them to me (so they weren't getting nearly the profit from the work).

I agree, most extended warranties will nickle and dime you until you're just as well off to not even have the thing... unless you have an engine or transmission go bad. Some folks win out with them but most just end up eating the bill for piece of mind, just like I have so far.

Best advice, get a book that lists all the parts covered. I know they are available online but I can't remember where off-hand. That will give you a breakdown, part by part, location by location, of all covered parts vs. the warranty type you have.

MaxedOut

iTrader: (4)

i brought mine to the dealer and they raped me twice... one for the valve.. 2nd time for the canister.. about 5k miles apart... yea i had to pay it.. blah oh well..


its still throwing codes and i think its the gas cap.. which really pisses me off

DaBoxSE

iTrader: (5)

Chris = Alive? What's up man! Are you getting both codes? I think that mine is a little weird because I get different codes from time to time. And sometimes I just get the P1448 or the other. Its strange, but anyways I ordered a new valve from Dave B and should have it on the car hopefully by next week!

TeamZ33

iTrader: (7)

Thanks you guys for posting this. It just happened that my sisters cars CEL came on and this is the code. Now all I have to do is go home and check it out. Hopefully its just a bad hose.

nsxtbone

Thanks in advance. I am a new member here and found this post while searching. I also threw the 2 codes p0455 and p1448. 2003 Maxima

My question is this. As I type this I am looking at a bill from 11 months ago where the same 2 codes were on and nissan fixed the problem to the tune of $453
$97 valve assymbly
173 cannister
$180 labor for diagnosis and fix
Clearly I got ripped by an authorized dealership. Now less the 1 year later, the code is back. They replaced the cannister also because they said like 80% of the time while replacing the valve the cannister cracks as mine did.
Do I have any leg to stand on that this was replaced 11 months ago and the same problem comes up. Can I contact a Nissan rep to get a goodwill fix.

Thanks in advance for your help. I have 83,000 miles on the car and other then these 2 issues the car has performed flawless but this really pisses me off

Barc

iTrader: (2)

Do you still have the receipt? I was told the parts and labor carried a one year warranty but that may have been dealership specific but I've held onto the receipt for that reason.

GBAUER

iTrader: (2)

when you fill up your car with gas, do you always put a little more in after it clicks off? If so, you've probably killed the valve and cannister yourself.

chr0nos

iTrader: (1)

some dealers give you 1 year/12k miles, and some may not. check with your dealer to be sure. if they don't cover it, buy the purge valve ONLY, and replace it yourself. it is very easy, and cost about 1/4 of what you paid originally.
+1 for not overfilling your car after initial shut off. two dealerships told me that's the cultprit for evap valves failures on maximas/altimas/pathfinders witht eh vq35. maybe other cars as well.