illtoro

iTrader: (1)

Is there any way that I could find out if my battery cables are bad. I replaced my alternator about a month ago, and it seems as if though it's not doing a good job of charging the battery. Is there some test I could do to make sure enough voltage is getting to and from the battery via the cables?

JSutter

iTrader: (46)

yea get a digital volt ohm meter and test differnt parts of the electrical system.

ThisMaxIsTight

iTrader: (23)

what kinda alternator did you get? .. most of the raman. ones are junk ... i got a nissan alt. and i have no probs ever... it was also free installed cause of the 97-98 recall

maxman12

Cables usually aren't bad, the connections are the problems. Do a visual check and clean if necessary. While running the alt should be putting about 14.5 volts into the battery. Test with a simple multimeter. How old is the battery. Have someone load test the battery, I believe Auto Zone will do it for free.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

It's hard to tell since bad cables usually only have trouble when they are running the full current load. An Ohmmeter would detect a nearly broken cable or bad connection, but it applies a minimal current load.

Dave

JK98SE5

I can't help you with your question, but I know those cables aren't stocked at the dealers I've talked to. I just had the positive terminal post corrode apart at the battery. I temporarily rigged it with a wrench, but my battery was dead this morning, so I wasn't getting enough recharge going.

The dealer sent me a cable and it doesn't appear that it's going to work. So I'm going to try and attach a terminal from Advance before trying t get another cable. And I need my car now!

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

They are probably not in stock at the local dealer, but they are available if you give them a few days. I recently replaced both of my battery cables for a total of around $100.

Dave

JK98SE5

Dave,

Was that thing a bolt in replacement or did you have to do some re-wiring?

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

Straightforward bolt in replacement. I did have to remove the battery box so I could disconnect the lead at the starter. I did it because my positive terminal was consistently building up corrosion, and so far (just a couple thousand miles) it hasn't returned.

Dave

JK98SE5

OK, you may or may not remember, but there was a female connector wrapped into the positive cable near the battery terminal. This connector is not on my replacement cable. Was that connector from the other cable going beneath the engine on the positive side? The cable I received is going around the battery to the fuse box on the right.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

I don't remember, honestly. I think there was something I had to move from one cable to the other, but I don't remember how it attached or what it was.

Dave

f550maranello2

iTrader: (2)

not exactly get urself a 12 volt test light and probe around with it.... but if ur car is older just upgrade the 'big three'

z32drifter

Here's how to test the cable for voltage drop. Use a volt/ohm meter and check the voltage at the alt. + on the wire post and ground to the body of the alt _____ volts. Now move the + to the + battery terminal _____ volts. They should be the same or within .1 volts. Move the + side on the volt/ohm meter to the - side of the battery (- side of the volt/ohm meter still grounded to the alt) _____ voltage. That is the voltage drop for the ground (-) side of the system. Voltage drop should be very small .1 or so larger than that indicates a wiring issue. If that looks ok have some one with a amp meter check the alt output .... check no load at idle... no load at 3k ... load at idle and load at 3k ( load= ac+headlights+radio+ect) compare the output.... it's also nice to watch voltage at the same time. Amps should increase with load and voltage will decrease with load.