Spark Plug Information
#1
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Spark Plug Information
Here is some spark plug info for VG's and VE's
Here is a chart from NGK's site showing you what the plug numbers and letters mean:
http://ngk.com/images/NGKsparkplugNum.gif
FSM pages stating the proper plug/heatranges for our cars
VG:
http://digitalbeta.net/images/FSM/VG%20Plugs.JPG
VE:
http://digitalbeta.net/images/FSM/VE%20Plugs.JPG
Things to know
The VG's stock heatrange is 5, the same as the VE. (not 6 like alot of people think)
VE's come with Platinum plugs stock, VG's come with Copper plugs stock
I prefer the V-power copper plugs from NGK for both engines. You will get the best performance, cheaper at the expense of shorter plug life (15k vs 60K)
The standard copper electrode NGK plugs are BKR5ES-11's
The V-power copper electrode NGK plugs are BKR5E-11's
Heat Ranges:
Read up here before you decide to run a hotter, or more commonly a colder plug:
http://ngk.com/charglossary.asp?kw=Heat+range
For NGK plugs, a larger heat range number means a colder plug. For Example:
BKR4E-11 = 1 step hotter than stock
BKR5E-11 = stock heatrange
BKR6E-11 = 1 step colder than stock
Spark Plug indexing:
This practice is making the grounds face the same direction in each cylinder. Generally you want to point the ground towards the intake valve(s) which helps prevent blowout and also (in theory) keep the flame in the direction of the exhaust valves instead of the intake valves. Of course there might be 1 or 2 people making enough power that they notice effect from this. (those people, if they are even reading this are only reading to try and pick me for mistakes )
Thats all I can think of for now
Here is a chart from NGK's site showing you what the plug numbers and letters mean:
http://ngk.com/images/NGKsparkplugNum.gif
FSM pages stating the proper plug/heatranges for our cars
VG:
http://digitalbeta.net/images/FSM/VG%20Plugs.JPG
VE:
http://digitalbeta.net/images/FSM/VE%20Plugs.JPG
Things to know
The VG's stock heatrange is 5, the same as the VE. (not 6 like alot of people think)
VE's come with Platinum plugs stock, VG's come with Copper plugs stock
I prefer the V-power copper plugs from NGK for both engines. You will get the best performance, cheaper at the expense of shorter plug life (15k vs 60K)
The standard copper electrode NGK plugs are BKR5ES-11's
The V-power copper electrode NGK plugs are BKR5E-11's
Heat Ranges:
Read up here before you decide to run a hotter, or more commonly a colder plug:
http://ngk.com/charglossary.asp?kw=Heat+range
For NGK plugs, a larger heat range number means a colder plug. For Example:
BKR4E-11 = 1 step hotter than stock
BKR5E-11 = stock heatrange
BKR6E-11 = 1 step colder than stock
Spark Plug indexing:
This practice is making the grounds face the same direction in each cylinder. Generally you want to point the ground towards the intake valve(s) which helps prevent blowout and also (in theory) keep the flame in the direction of the exhaust valves instead of the intake valves. Of course there might be 1 or 2 people making enough power that they notice effect from this. (those people, if they are even reading this are only reading to try and pick me for mistakes )
Thats all I can think of for now
#2
that is not NGK's website, it is owned by a place called monarch distributing.
NGK's website is www.ngksparkplugs.com
Their tech page http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinf...000&country=US
yes NGK gave their "ok" to monarch having the site though
NGK's website is www.ngksparkplugs.com
Their tech page http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinf...000&country=US
yes NGK gave their "ok" to monarch having the site though
#3
BOSH PLatinum4 plugs
Hey everyone
quick question , i own a 1991 maxima, with 134000 miles on it , and i was wondering if its a good idea to slap in the BOSCH Platinum4 in it. I just want the best for my baby. Thanks in advance this is a great site
P.S Ill post some pics soon of my Maxi
quick question , i own a 1991 maxima, with 134000 miles on it , and i was wondering if its a good idea to slap in the BOSCH Platinum4 in it. I just want the best for my baby. Thanks in advance this is a great site
P.S Ill post some pics soon of my Maxi
#5
Originally Posted by MrGone
You will get the best performance, cheaper at the expense of shorter plug life (15k vs 60K)
#6
Originally Posted by blackandwhite
Well...the plats for the VE cost 4~4.5 times what the coppers cost, and last 4 times as long....the coppers may save A LITTLE money in the long run, but the plats save labor....even if it's your own.
If the car was brand new, I would stick with platinum, but being my car is so old (just like the rest of the 3rd gen owners), I just put in coppers and replace them when I check it.
#11
Originally Posted by 89blackse
30-40 guesstamate pounds. I know for my VG i guess got them hand tight and then turned them till they were firm and solid but not thread stripping tight.
Source: My Dad/lazyness
Source: My Dad/lazyness
I think about 5 ft lbs is estimated to be what is done when you screw something so it is flush/flat with the object it is penetrating and then you turn it 1/4 turn. But, this is totally a guess and there is plenty of room for misinterpretation and error. It's best to use a torque wrench.
The maximum I've seen spark plug torque specs to be is about 20 ft lbs. I suppose most are within +/- 5 ft lbs of 20 ft lbs. But, just a lb or two off and you could need to re thread, which can be described as one of the worst jobs ever.
I was especially concerned about the VE30DE engine specs when I saw this thread about re threading the head: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....=1#post4114549
I really want the OEM specs. I'll call NISSAN tomorrow if I have to.
#12
Originally Posted by TempMaxMan
No way! At least I HIGHLY doubt it and would be surprised. 30-40 ft lbs is A LOT AS IN TOO MUCH for spark plugs IMO.
I think about 5 ft lbs is estimated to be what is done when you screw something so it is flush/flat with the object it is penetrating and then you turn it 1/4 turn. But, this is totally a guess and there is plenty of room for misinterpretation and error. It's best to use a torque wrench.
The maximum I've seen spark plug torque specs to be is about 20 ft lbs. I suppose most are within +/- 5 ft lbs of 20 ft lbs. But, just a lb or two off and you could need to re thread, which can be described as one of the worst jobs ever.
I was especially concerned about the VE30DE engine specs when I saw this thread about re threading the head: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....=1#post4114549
I really want the OEM specs. I'll call NISSAN tomorrow if I have to.
I think about 5 ft lbs is estimated to be what is done when you screw something so it is flush/flat with the object it is penetrating and then you turn it 1/4 turn. But, this is totally a guess and there is plenty of room for misinterpretation and error. It's best to use a torque wrench.
The maximum I've seen spark plug torque specs to be is about 20 ft lbs. I suppose most are within +/- 5 ft lbs of 20 ft lbs. But, just a lb or two off and you could need to re thread, which can be described as one of the worst jobs ever.
I was especially concerned about the VE30DE engine specs when I saw this thread about re threading the head: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....=1#post4114549
I really want the OEM specs. I'll call NISSAN tomorrow if I have to.
Just a joke yo. Being sarcastic. But yeah I would call Nissan if no one chimes in with better information.
#15
Originally Posted by MyGreenMax94
I just do the "thats feels good to me" method..
I think the biggest scare should be crossthreading. I like to turn them anti-clockwise till they 'click' then start turning clockwise and 99% of the time you get them in the right way.
Then do the MrGreen method...
#18
I use the NGK Iridium IXs. I buy them imported. Gap them once at .045 and torque them to 19.6 ft. lbs. I own a VE, and NGK says the recommended ft. lbs should be anywhere from 18.0 - 21.6 ft. lbs.
If you torque them to 18, you will notice a difference in mileage than 19, and so on. The distance the spark hovers within the chamber from the thread point is critical. Also, it doesnt matter if you have a V on the reciever, or two recievers, or four. Its all about the power of the spark, not if there are two or more of em. You can test the power of the spark by unplugging one of your electrical plugs from your engine and plugging it into your new plug and watching the spark. The brighter the better. Use a welding mask to actually SEE the shape and structure of the spark, and play around with the gap. Fix it to where the structure is not too thin and not too thick, and doesnt disperse at the reciever too much.
If you torque them to 18, you will notice a difference in mileage than 19, and so on. The distance the spark hovers within the chamber from the thread point is critical. Also, it doesnt matter if you have a V on the reciever, or two recievers, or four. Its all about the power of the spark, not if there are two or more of em. You can test the power of the spark by unplugging one of your electrical plugs from your engine and plugging it into your new plug and watching the spark. The brighter the better. Use a welding mask to actually SEE the shape and structure of the spark, and play around with the gap. Fix it to where the structure is not too thin and not too thick, and doesnt disperse at the reciever too much.
#20
Thanks for the replies.
The way you word it sound like you're only concerned with the plug thread stripping.
The thing to be most concerned about is stripping the threads in the head.
I was amazed to find Torque Specs and Gap Specs in the user manual.
Lists the torque spec range as 14-22 ft lbs. I'm thinking I'll go with 20 right now unless somebody or myself convinces me otherwise.
You mentioned mileage difference due to torque specs. Makes sense, though I imagine the difference to be small. What to you think is best for best fuel economy/mpg? Think 20 ft lbs is good?
Lists gap at .039 - .043 inches or 1 - 1.1 mm.
Specs are for both VG and VE engines.
I'm working on a VG30E.
Originally Posted by elusivemax93
i put in bosch platinum 4's yesterday and torque recommendation for those are 21 lb/ft
The thing to be most concerned about is stripping the threads in the head.
Originally Posted by TimberJon
I use the NGK Iridium IXs. I buy them imported. Gap them once at .045 and torque them to 19.6 ft. lbs. I own a VE, and NGK says the recommended ft. lbs should be anywhere from 18.0 - 21.6 ft. lbs.
If you torque them to 18, you will notice a difference in mileage than 19, and so on. The distance the spark hovers within the chamber from the thread point is critical. Also, it doesnt matter if you have a V on the reciever, or two recievers, or four. Its all about the power of the spark, not if there are two or more of em. You can test the power of the spark by unplugging one of your electrical plugs from your engine and plugging it into your new plug and watching the spark. The brighter the better. Use a welding mask to actually SEE the shape and structure of the spark, and play around with the gap. Fix it to where the structure is not too thin and not too thick, and doesnt disperse at the reciever too much.
If you torque them to 18, you will notice a difference in mileage than 19, and so on. The distance the spark hovers within the chamber from the thread point is critical. Also, it doesnt matter if you have a V on the reciever, or two recievers, or four. Its all about the power of the spark, not if there are two or more of em. You can test the power of the spark by unplugging one of your electrical plugs from your engine and plugging it into your new plug and watching the spark. The brighter the better. Use a welding mask to actually SEE the shape and structure of the spark, and play around with the gap. Fix it to where the structure is not too thin and not too thick, and doesnt disperse at the reciever too much.
Lists the torque spec range as 14-22 ft lbs. I'm thinking I'll go with 20 right now unless somebody or myself convinces me otherwise.
You mentioned mileage difference due to torque specs. Makes sense, though I imagine the difference to be small. What to you think is best for best fuel economy/mpg? Think 20 ft lbs is good?
Lists gap at .039 - .043 inches or 1 - 1.1 mm.
Specs are for both VG and VE engines.
I'm working on a VG30E.
#21
Originally Posted by TempMaxMan
Thanks for the replies.
The way you word it sound like you're only concerned with the plug thread stripping.
The thing to be most concerned about is stripping the threads in the head.
The way you word it sound like you're only concerned with the plug thread stripping.
The thing to be most concerned about is stripping the threads in the head.
#22
Originally Posted by elusivemax93
im just stating the torque specs on the bosch box. i didnt have a torque wrench so i only torqued them down to as good as i could by hand
BTW/JFYI; I just picked up some Champion copper plugs from Advance Auto for $1.7x .
Gap is listed at 0.044 , about right on the large side according to the manual for the car at .043.
No torque specs listed for the plug.
#23
Absolutely correct on the head threads. Dont screw those up. Punn intended.
For our thread size, the gap should be .044 or +/- .001.
Like I said, I used about 19.6 foots and gained an extra 20-30 miles per tank. I used to have it at 21, thinking that Id torque it really close to the maximum recommendation and It wont come loose over time and will be very secure and sealed..
When you think about it technically. The combustion of the bang works better inside the engine when the spark goes off closer to the outside wall, than towards the center of the chamber. So the closer to the wall your spark is, the better the bang. Its all about timing and the differences are so minute that damnit, we just cant tell.. But my miles per tank tells a little story..
RULE OF THUMB FOR TORQUEING!! (spelling?)
Tighten the bastard til it is as hand-tight as your naked hands can get it, without the ratchet, just the extension and socket. Then apply enough force with your ratchet/socket combo to turn 1 revolution. Try for 2/3 a turn or 3/4 first. You want to turn it lightly until it resists a moderate emount of pressure. DO NOT immediately place your hand at the very end of the handle and spin it around a few times. Works fine for lug nuts, not your plugs. That is usually to-spec torque without having a torque wrench handy.
Oh, and when you remove your plugs, do it while your engine is cold please. And use a nylon or brass bristle brush and comb the threads down in the head if you can. Might have to use a pair of needle noses to hold the bristle brush. Important to try to clean up any loose deposits of old anti-seize or grit. Ever been in wood shop? Teach tells you to sand with the grain? Brush with the threads, not against them. Clean the brush off for each thread port. Theres usually leaves and pine needles and crap down near the plug ports, try to vacuum all that crap out before you even take the plugs out. You dont want ANYTHING falling in there.
For our thread size, the gap should be .044 or +/- .001.
Like I said, I used about 19.6 foots and gained an extra 20-30 miles per tank. I used to have it at 21, thinking that Id torque it really close to the maximum recommendation and It wont come loose over time and will be very secure and sealed..
When you think about it technically. The combustion of the bang works better inside the engine when the spark goes off closer to the outside wall, than towards the center of the chamber. So the closer to the wall your spark is, the better the bang. Its all about timing and the differences are so minute that damnit, we just cant tell.. But my miles per tank tells a little story..
RULE OF THUMB FOR TORQUEING!! (spelling?)
Tighten the bastard til it is as hand-tight as your naked hands can get it, without the ratchet, just the extension and socket. Then apply enough force with your ratchet/socket combo to turn 1 revolution. Try for 2/3 a turn or 3/4 first. You want to turn it lightly until it resists a moderate emount of pressure. DO NOT immediately place your hand at the very end of the handle and spin it around a few times. Works fine for lug nuts, not your plugs. That is usually to-spec torque without having a torque wrench handy.
Oh, and when you remove your plugs, do it while your engine is cold please. And use a nylon or brass bristle brush and comb the threads down in the head if you can. Might have to use a pair of needle noses to hold the bristle brush. Important to try to clean up any loose deposits of old anti-seize or grit. Ever been in wood shop? Teach tells you to sand with the grain? Brush with the threads, not against them. Clean the brush off for each thread port. Theres usually leaves and pine needles and crap down near the plug ports, try to vacuum all that crap out before you even take the plugs out. You dont want ANYTHING falling in there.
#25
Hey there! I was one of the bosch plat +4 users till now that im reading this thread, so want to change my spark plug to NGK but I dont know which ones, I already check the site but it comes with 6 options, standard, G power, G power platinum, Laser iridium, OE laser iridium and Iridium IX, is this last one the very best? I'm not sure, I jus want the best for my Maxima. Thank you!
#26
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Oh you two are funny. f-u-n-n-y!
It screwed in FINE. Just decided to blow out on day on the freeway! aieeeee!
It screwed in FINE. Just decided to blow out on day on the freeway! aieeeee!
Ha!
Are you talking about when you had to rethread the head?
Seem like you are. In that case .... wowzers ... that sucks and is quite interesting. Do you know how many ft lbs you had the plugs torqued in at the time?
#27
Originally Posted by rmdl51
Hey there! I was one of the bosch plat +4 users till now that im reading this thread, so want to change my spark plug to NGK but I dont know which ones, I already check the site but it comes with 6 options, standard, G power, G power platinum, Laser iridium, OE laser iridium and Iridium IX, is this last one the very best? I'm not sure, I jus want the best for my Maxima. Thank you!
Coppers are what I like to use. They fire well and last about 10-15k miles, which is a good time to check up on plugs and wires and everything else anyways. They are also very cheap at 1-2 $ a plug.
Iridiums are considered to be the best firing plugs. I don't know what the longevity is supposed to be like. They usually cost around 8-10 $ a plug.
I just got Champion Coppers for about $1.78 a plug. I'll probably gap them at .044 and torque them down to 20 ft lbs.
***Thanks for the reply, TimberJon
#28
Originally Posted by rmdl51
Hey there! I was one of the bosch plat +4 users till now that im reading this thread, so want to change my spark plug to NGK but I dont know which ones, I already check the site but it comes with 6 options, standard, G power, G power platinum, Laser iridium, OE laser iridium and Iridium IX, is this last one the very best? I'm not sure, I jus want the best for my Maxima. Thank you!
http://www.internetautosupply.com/ca...roducts_id=369
1.80 a pop right there
#29
Yup. I don't know what the torque values were. I know I gave them a good torquing. You can't go overboard anyway. As the head and threads are aluminum.
I still have the special tools if anyone would like them.
I still have the special tools if anyone would like them.
Originally Posted by TempMaxMan
Ha!
Are you talking about when you had to rethread the head?
Seem like you are. In that case .... wowzers ... that sucks and is quite interesting. Do you know how many ft lbs you had the plugs torqued in at the time?
Are you talking about when you had to rethread the head?
Seem like you are. In that case .... wowzers ... that sucks and is quite interesting. Do you know how many ft lbs you had the plugs torqued in at the time?
#30
Originally Posted by MrGone
Things to know The VG's stock heatrange is 5, the same as the VE. (not 6 like alot of people think)
NGK also recommends a heat range of 6 for VG30ET as well. Which I thought was interesting. I'm actually running 8's right now and knew it was too cold. I've got some 7's I'm going to throw in and see the difference.
#32
I got this Champion Copper Plus part#: rc12yc
Stock #: 71
http://www.championsparkplugs.com/mo...AAIA=&pid=8491
Part of me thinks I should have gone with the NGK and confirmed heat range. I was in a rush though and don't think I even saw any NGKs.
The old plugs I pulled were NGK BKR5ES.
The Champions I got seem to be doing well. Good power.
I don't know what the heat range is for the plug though and I am very curious.
Gapped them to .044 .
I got them for about 1.78 a plug at Advance Auto.
Stock #: 71
http://www.championsparkplugs.com/mo...AAIA=&pid=8491
Part of me thinks I should have gone with the NGK and confirmed heat range. I was in a rush though and don't think I even saw any NGKs.
The old plugs I pulled were NGK BKR5ES.
The Champions I got seem to be doing well. Good power.
I don't know what the heat range is for the plug though and I am very curious.
Gapped them to .044 .
I got them for about 1.78 a plug at Advance Auto.
#36
Originally Posted by internetautomar
the 12 is the heat range.
Holy crap. Are you telling me that "heat range" numbers are standard/universal AND that heat range numbers are "colder" the higher the number is AND that the stock plugs used for the maxima are a fairly "hot" heat range rating of 5 and the FSM says you can even go as hot as a 4?
Please reply asap. If this 12 rating is accurate and on the same scale as heat ratings shown on the NGK plugs and listed in the FSM then I am getting new spark plugs and it'd be nice to pick them up this evening.
How do you know for sure that the 12 in the prt number is the heat rating and that this is on the same scale as the numbers on the NGKs?
#37
You think I'd have any problems going with the #4 heat range with a VG30?
Seems the FSM lists a 5 as standard for the VG AND VE yet the VE lists a 4 as okay to run "hot" but does not list the same "hot option" for the VG. Seems to me that they are similar enough engines to be able to accept the same plugs in stock form.
Seems the FSM lists a 5 as standard for the VG AND VE yet the VE lists a 4 as okay to run "hot" but does not list the same "hot option" for the VG. Seems to me that they are similar enough engines to be able to accept the same plugs in stock form.
#38
there is no "universal" heat range, all the companies do it a little different
just for example
91 max
ACdelco is a #1 heat range
Motorcraft a #2
NGK a #6
Denso is a #2 or 20
Autolite is a # 03
Bosch is a #7
as you can see there is no real logic persee to the heat range versus # across brands. you can only compare them within brands
just for example
91 max
ACdelco is a #1 heat range
Motorcraft a #2
NGK a #6
Denso is a #2 or 20
Autolite is a # 03
Bosch is a #7
as you can see there is no real logic persee to the heat range versus # across brands. you can only compare them within brands
#39
Originally Posted by TempMaxMan
You think I'd have any problems going with the #4 heat range with a VG30?
Seems the FSM lists a 5 as standard for the VG AND VE yet the VE lists a 4 as okay to run "hot" but does not list the same "hot option" for the VG. Seems to me that they are similar enough engines to be able to accept the same plugs in stock form.
Seems the FSM lists a 5 as standard for the VG AND VE yet the VE lists a 4 as okay to run "hot" but does not list the same "hot option" for the VG. Seems to me that they are similar enough engines to be able to accept the same plugs in stock form.
are you fouling out?
#40
Originally Posted by internetautomar
there is no "universal" heat range, all the companies do it a little different
just for example
91 max
ACdelco is a #1 heat range
Motorcraft a #2
NGK a #6
Denso is a #2 or 20
Autolite is a # 03
Bosch is a #7
as you can see there is no real logic persee to the heat range versus # across brands. you can only compare them within brands
just for example
91 max
ACdelco is a #1 heat range
Motorcraft a #2
NGK a #6
Denso is a #2 or 20
Autolite is a # 03
Bosch is a #7
as you can see there is no real logic persee to the heat range versus # across brands. you can only compare them within brands
Logic would say that IF BOTH Champion and Advance have their stuff together then the Champion heat range of 12 would at least be the equivalent to NGK's 5 ... since they listed this as a good plug for the Maxima with the VG30. But, companies aren't always as correct as they should be.
Originally Posted by internetautomar
why would you want to run a hotter plug?
are you fouling out?
are you fouling out?
I am getting an intermittent miss. Some times it sound like there is 1 cylinder not firing at all, sometimes there is no miss and clearly all are firing ... and sometimes it's a mix of both ... with faint intermittent/off beat missing.
I am also seeing some sort of fluid drip from near the throttle body. The exact location that the fluid is leaking from is not yet identified, but it seems to be on a lower hose from the TB to the IACV-AAC. I currently don't imagine it being anything other than fuel. It drips more after high revs.
I'm thinking and injector is bad and or fuel is not being burnt due to cold plugs. I have not yet had a chance to pull the wires on the plugs with the engine running while it is also consistantly missing.
The engine is putting out enough power to spin tires a bit from a dead stop out of 1st gear selected with a VG30 and auto combo. But, it's obviously not running as well as it should be.
I'm thinking it would be worth it to just eat some humble pie and go get some NGKs. Seems like it'd be best to go with 4s and not 5s. Your thoughts?