Another dyno thread .. input appreciated
#1
Another dyno thread .. input appreciated
Going to the dyno once again for some more info.
Doing a few runs, have a few ideas, and also am open to suggestions.
First run will be a new baseline w/timing advance. Next I wanted to see what the disabling flapper for the 02+ VI would do to my curve. I also thought of doing some misc testing with a drop in K&N, and also though of ordering a Stillen POP. But have yet decided exactly what to do.
The only true dyno I've ever seen w/ a drop in K&N comparison was in an 04 v6 (240hp) Accord, and it gained approx 5whp in the last 250 - 500 rpm, worth $35, well, this is the point where I start seeing the price of longevity outweighing performance.
The timing advance (17*) seems like it did some good, but won't be proven until it gets strapped down on the rollers of course. The sound of the engine has changed with this mod as well, and it feels much stronger in the midrange, but again butt dynos are as accurate as injen dynos
As far as screwing with the VI flap, to me it felt like I lost low end and gained top end, which would be reminiscent a la MEVI zip tied open. But then I thought that maybe it just feels like the top end is better since there is a lack in low end, and maybe the top end is the same. I think it may have shifted the curve up higher, but we'll see how true that is. And with the 3.5L, it's not as depressing to lose low end as compared to a 3.0L auto losing it.
I've also been wanting to dyno with the POP b/c this is, IMO the best aftermarket, besides custom (GAB) that there is as far as performance, but if there is only a minimal gain <5hp , then I'm not sure if the extra noise will be worth it, although it sounds much better than the psycho wail of a straight midpipe on a FWD 3.5L, the price is decent too, when compared to CAI's, but still twice the cost of short rams. POP prices, JWT $159/Stillen $129 that's a first, Stillen has the better price. I may ask a friend to lend me a Berk cone only so I don't have to go out and buy one.
So what's for sure is paper element filter vs drop in K&N and VI flap disable, all on 17* (vs 15* last time)
Should I do closed vs GAB with the K&N, or just leave it GAB ... ?
Thoughts, suggestions, input ...
Doing a few runs, have a few ideas, and also am open to suggestions.
First run will be a new baseline w/timing advance. Next I wanted to see what the disabling flapper for the 02+ VI would do to my curve. I also thought of doing some misc testing with a drop in K&N, and also though of ordering a Stillen POP. But have yet decided exactly what to do.
The only true dyno I've ever seen w/ a drop in K&N comparison was in an 04 v6 (240hp) Accord, and it gained approx 5whp in the last 250 - 500 rpm, worth $35, well, this is the point where I start seeing the price of longevity outweighing performance.
The timing advance (17*) seems like it did some good, but won't be proven until it gets strapped down on the rollers of course. The sound of the engine has changed with this mod as well, and it feels much stronger in the midrange, but again butt dynos are as accurate as injen dynos
As far as screwing with the VI flap, to me it felt like I lost low end and gained top end, which would be reminiscent a la MEVI zip tied open. But then I thought that maybe it just feels like the top end is better since there is a lack in low end, and maybe the top end is the same. I think it may have shifted the curve up higher, but we'll see how true that is. And with the 3.5L, it's not as depressing to lose low end as compared to a 3.0L auto losing it.
I've also been wanting to dyno with the POP b/c this is, IMO the best aftermarket, besides custom (GAB) that there is as far as performance, but if there is only a minimal gain <5hp , then I'm not sure if the extra noise will be worth it, although it sounds much better than the psycho wail of a straight midpipe on a FWD 3.5L, the price is decent too, when compared to CAI's, but still twice the cost of short rams. POP prices, JWT $159/Stillen $129 that's a first, Stillen has the better price. I may ask a friend to lend me a Berk cone only so I don't have to go out and buy one.
So what's for sure is paper element filter vs drop in K&N and VI flap disable, all on 17* (vs 15* last time)
Should I do closed vs GAB with the K&N, or just leave it GAB ... ?
Thoughts, suggestions, input ...
#4
Where do you plan on Dynoing? In ABQ somewhere? If so I suggest Speed Dreams
2420 Comanche NE
Albuquerque, NM
505.883.8388
Theres the DynoEdge there too, but they specialize in Fords and whatnot. Anyway, you should register over at www.racingsouthwest.com mostly people from New Mexico on there and its full of good stuff
2420 Comanche NE
Albuquerque, NM
505.883.8388
Theres the DynoEdge there too, but they specialize in Fords and whatnot. Anyway, you should register over at www.racingsouthwest.com mostly people from New Mexico on there and its full of good stuff
#5
Yeah, well speeddreams guys are cool as he//, but tehy sorta whacked my buddys car to ****. Last time i went to dyno edge, tehy were pretty cool, considering all the Stangs they got there, and I also want to keep consistent so dynoedge will be where Im going, 1pm Friday. Thanks
#6
Nmex...i can't wait to see your results...ever since you and me talked about the 2k2 IM VI mod....i have been so curious to see the dyno results....this will once and for all prove if this mod works or not....
well hope to hear from you soon!
well hope to hear from you soon!
#7
After a pretty stressful weekend, long story short, didn't get the dyno done. It all started when Friday I go to get my VB installed, and it took them about 2 hours, ok cool, dudes in my car putting the old one in the trunk and iI think I'm ready to go .. oh shyt, the car is running in full "manual" mode, meaning that there are no automatic ameneties, the guy askes what kind of VB is this, as it has no down shifting when in D and WOT, so I think well, that's strange Maximum tuning didn't mention that. Then I thought well this is good for a dyno in an automatic. After small talks amonst themselves, I go and ask what's the verdict, and he says oh ptobably an o ring or something, I'm like ok, cool, they drop the pan again screw with it, same shyt, no downshifting ... Then tehy do it one mroe time, and get it fixed, so he says. My appointment was at 8AM, and my dyno is at 1PM, I call the dyno shop at 12 noon, and reschedule for the next day. I'm leaving sorta pisse stressed, but he said it was good ... I go down the road, and get a nice 1-2, tires chirp, nice.. 2-3 phukin ****, slower than it was before. I call Maximum tuning, great guys BTW, they tell me some decently good news, basically the shop probably neglected some o rings and/or the 2-3 solenoid is not properly installed. So now my main thing is getting this issue sorted out before I dyno. Sorry guys, but I still plan on doing this. Then after I dyno this stuff, I'm dynoing a Franken B-pipe... More to come ... Cheers.
#8
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
After a pretty stressful weekend, long story short, didn't get the dyno done. It all started when Friday I go to get my VB installed, and it took them about 2 hours, ok cool, dudes in my car putting the old one in the trunk and iI think I'm ready to go .. oh shyt, the car is running in full "manual" mode, meaning that there are no automatic ameneties, the guy askes what kind of VB is this, as it has no down shifting when in D and WOT, so I think well, that's strange Maximum tuning didn't mention that. Then I thought well this is good for a dyno in an automatic. After small talks amonst themselves, I go and ask what's the verdict, and he says oh ptobably an o ring or something, I'm like ok, cool, they drop the pan again screw with it, same shyt, no downshifting ... Then tehy do it one mroe time, and get it fixed, so he says. My appointment was at 8AM, and my dyno is at 1PM, I call the dyno shop at 12 noon, and reschedule for the next day. I'm leaving sorta pisse stressed, but he said it was good ... I go down the road, and get a nice 1-2, tires chirp, nice.. 2-3 phukin ****, slower than it was before. I call Maximum tuning, great guys BTW, they tell me some decently good news, basically the shop probably neglected some o rings and/or the 2-3 solenoid is not properly installed. So now my main thing is getting this issue sorted out before I dyno. Sorry guys, but I still plan on doing this. Then after I dyno this stuff, I'm dynoing a Franken B-pipe... More to come ... Cheers.
dang it seems like u dyno alot....do they charge cheap over there? or money isn't an object to u
#9
I wish I could drop ca$h like it wasn't an option .... they normally charge 60 an hour, or $15/ run. Yeah, next time will be better, guaranteed, only thing is that it's only getting warmer, so the results may not be right on relative to the conditions compared to last time.
#11
wow those #s look SICK....especially an automatic....i'magine with an intake midpipe and a cattman catback...i'm willing to bet you will easily push 240whp+ with those two mods...and maybe a better power curve? Nmex didn't you say the intake midpipe adds pretty good top-end like after 6k? so your power drop off wouldn't look so bad even with a stock 2k2 IM
#13
Wow, those are some really nice #s. So, upon analyizing the chart:
a GAB gave 9whp
then advancing the timing and swapping to a POPcharger, gained 13hp on top of that??
that's nuts! i need to get my timing advanced right away. Thanks for all your hard work for the community, it is much appreciated!
a GAB gave 9whp
then advancing the timing and swapping to a POPcharger, gained 13hp on top of that??
that's nuts! i need to get my timing advanced right away. Thanks for all your hard work for the community, it is much appreciated!
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