Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ-U)
04-28-2001, 01:11 AM
#2
How low will my car be with these springs?
Inches (front/back)
Eibach 1.3, 1.0 (stiff)
H&R 1.4, 1.3 (near stock)
Progress 1.7, 1.5 (near stock)
Intrax 1.75 all around
Sprint 2.0 all around (stiff)
B&G 1.6, 1.6
Ground Controls adjustable (very stiff)
MaxSpeed 1.7, 1.4 (near stock)
Credit: Wustyle and BigDogJonx
Eibach 1.3, 1.0 (stiff)
H&R 1.4, 1.3 (near stock)
Progress 1.7, 1.5 (near stock)
Intrax 1.75 all around
Sprint 2.0 all around (stiff)
B&G 1.6, 1.6
Ground Controls adjustable (very stiff)
MaxSpeed 1.7, 1.4 (near stock)
Credit: Wustyle and BigDogJonx
04-28-2001, 01:17 AM
#4
What body kits are available?
AE kit (Anniversary Edition)
1st version Stillen Aero Kit
Stillen full bumper replacement
Stillen front lip
Kamikaze/Ninja body kit
R34 Front Bumper
Click on link below for pictures:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....6&pagenumber=2
1st version Stillen Aero Kit
Stillen full bumper replacement
Stillen front lip
Kamikaze/Ninja body kit
R34 Front Bumper
Click on link below for pictures:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....6&pagenumber=2
04-28-2001, 01:28 AM
#5
Does the dealer get paid for my warranty work?
A dealer gets reimbursed 100% on qualified warranty work From Nissan (this applies to all dealers). Flaged rates (labor rate x pre-determined hours to perform a certain task) are paid if the dealer can justify the warranty claim.
All the parts used for warranty are either 1) re-imbursed by Nissan, or 2) replaced with return of defective part).
If you go in for out of warranty work, those pre-determined rates still apply. the dealer cannot make up a price for a certain repair, but they can "pad" a repair with other jobs.
Ex #1 : you take a '01 in because the turnsignals don't work. They identify a defective flux-capacitor, and the "bill" is 2.5 hours (at $45 per hour), plus the price of the new flux- capacitor ($50)....total paid by Nissan Warranty = $112.50 = labor, plus either replace the part (in most cases) or reimburse dealer for actual part cost.
EX #2 : you take a '94 in because the turnsignals don't work. They identify a defective flux-capacitor, and the "bill" is 2.5 hours (at $45 per hour), plus the price of the new flux- capacitor ($50)....total paid by YOU (the customer= $112.50 = labor, plus parts ($50), applicable taxes, etc.
the dealer gets paid the same.
The difference in Warranty work is the service writers fear that the claim may NOT be paid by Nissan if there is question to the validity of the claim, or , if they are unfamiliar with the FSB (service bulletin), they may be hesitant to do the work.
In this case it sounds like the dealer meant, we can look at it, BUT, if we can't find a failure or problem, we will have to recover out time ($$$) by charging you for it...Thats what he meant to say. If the car is under warranty and you are having a problem he won't charge you. BUT, if you go in without a complaint/problem, he can charge you for unwarranty diagnosis.
The guys in the back get paid "flag-time" as well. The labor rate is the same for most car repairs (including auto-body repairs)..The guy who replaces a transmission might make $12.00 per "flagged hour"...if the tranny swap pays 7 hours, and he finishes in 3, he gets paid for 7 hours. Simple as that.
Who gets the remaining $33 per hour? the dealership. Those are franchises, and they are expensive. They have to pay weighted labor costs (unemployment insurance, benefits, match SS, etc. They also get the $20,000 a month electric bill, the $100,000 a year tax note, $50,000 mortgage, etc...
Yet they still make $$$$$. But thats the way it is. BTW, non of this is speculation, hypothesis, estimate. It is un-disputable fact.
Credit: Don In Texas
All the parts used for warranty are either 1) re-imbursed by Nissan, or 2) replaced with return of defective part).
If you go in for out of warranty work, those pre-determined rates still apply. the dealer cannot make up a price for a certain repair, but they can "pad" a repair with other jobs.
Ex #1 : you take a '01 in because the turnsignals don't work. They identify a defective flux-capacitor, and the "bill" is 2.5 hours (at $45 per hour), plus the price of the new flux- capacitor ($50)....total paid by Nissan Warranty = $112.50 = labor, plus either replace the part (in most cases) or reimburse dealer for actual part cost.
EX #2 : you take a '94 in because the turnsignals don't work. They identify a defective flux-capacitor, and the "bill" is 2.5 hours (at $45 per hour), plus the price of the new flux- capacitor ($50)....total paid by YOU (the customer= $112.50 = labor, plus parts ($50), applicable taxes, etc.
the dealer gets paid the same.
The difference in Warranty work is the service writers fear that the claim may NOT be paid by Nissan if there is question to the validity of the claim, or , if they are unfamiliar with the FSB (service bulletin), they may be hesitant to do the work.
In this case it sounds like the dealer meant, we can look at it, BUT, if we can't find a failure or problem, we will have to recover out time ($$$) by charging you for it...Thats what he meant to say. If the car is under warranty and you are having a problem he won't charge you. BUT, if you go in without a complaint/problem, he can charge you for unwarranty diagnosis.
The guys in the back get paid "flag-time" as well. The labor rate is the same for most car repairs (including auto-body repairs)..The guy who replaces a transmission might make $12.00 per "flagged hour"...if the tranny swap pays 7 hours, and he finishes in 3, he gets paid for 7 hours. Simple as that.
Who gets the remaining $33 per hour? the dealership. Those are franchises, and they are expensive. They have to pay weighted labor costs (unemployment insurance, benefits, match SS, etc. They also get the $20,000 a month electric bill, the $100,000 a year tax note, $50,000 mortgage, etc...
Yet they still make $$$$$. But thats the way it is. BTW, non of this is speculation, hypothesis, estimate. It is un-disputable fact.
Credit: Don In Texas
04-28-2001, 01:34 AM
#6
I hear banging after my y-pipe install... what should I do?
Here's what I'd try first. Crawl under your car and loosen the four bolts holding in your main catalytic converter. Then rock the catalytic converter back and forth for a little while. I think the bees-in-a-can sound is coming from the flex section on your new y-pipe. If there is some stress in your y-pipe (like the engine trying to turn it one way and the cat turning it the other way) I think it would be more likely to make this sound.
When I installed my pipe, I had maybe four or five bees in my can (thank goodness it wasn't a whole swarm). After doing this I only have one or two left, which are probably there to stay.
---------
Was your exhaust just banging on this cross member, or what? To fix this you could just drop the cross member by placing multiple washers on each of the eight bolts used to mount it to the undercarriage. I used four washers on each bolt and don't have any banging anymore (except over very bumpy roads while accelerating hard).
Credit: Desert Pearl
When I installed my pipe, I had maybe four or five bees in my can (thank goodness it wasn't a whole swarm). After doing this I only have one or two left, which are probably there to stay.
---------
Was your exhaust just banging on this cross member, or what? To fix this you could just drop the cross member by placing multiple washers on each of the eight bolts used to mount it to the undercarriage. I used four washers on each bolt and don't have any banging anymore (except over very bumpy roads while accelerating hard).
Credit: Desert Pearl
04-28-2001, 01:43 AM
#10
What should my tire pressure be?
The sticker is in the armrest lid, but the factory pressures are a little low and biased towards understeer. Try 33f/29r and see how you like it.
33 psi all around will work also.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=36176
Credit: wdave
33 psi all around will work also.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=36176
Credit: wdave
04-28-2001, 01:52 AM
#13
Do the Autodynamic clear markers come with bulbs?
Fronts yes, rears no. If you want different colored bulbs (i.e. amber for fronts and red for rears), you'll have to buy them from somewhere else.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=35737
Credit: 2001SE, Hasoose, jashick
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=35737
Credit: 2001SE, Hasoose, jashick
04-28-2001, 01:59 AM
#15
I chipped/scratched my rim. How can I fix it?
There are places that refinish damages rims. It usually costs $80 or $100 a rim though. Try www.rimpro.com/ or do a search on the web for 'rim repair' you will get a bunch of hits.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=35415
Credit: UMD_MaxSE
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=35415
Credit: UMD_MaxSE
04-28-2001, 02:00 AM
#16
My rear deck rattles. How can I fix it?
I have found somewhat of a resolution to the BOSE unit rattling the rear deck (e.g. parcel).
I found the parcel to not be securely fastened to the frame, or the metal stuff underneath. I used velcro to further secure the parcel to the metal stuff to add more rigidness. There is a clip which holds the parcel down, but apparently it is not holding it down enough, and it causes vibration. In summary, the BOSE unit is shaking, causing the vibrations to eminate up through the securing clip onto the rear parcel, resulting in a "rattling" of the rear deck sound.
It should be noted the proper way to do this is to take out the rear parcel. For my application, the foam pads (see pics) just behind the BOSE unit were the ones vibrating the most. Others were as well, but those two in particular were the worst.
I plan on going back in and removing the rear parcel completely, and Velcro'ing all spacers.
The pics are here: http://www.fourthrock.com/maxima/mods.html under "BOSE..."
Note: Most of the rattle went away, but there is an ever so slight hint of it, most likely because I didn't not Velcro all spacers. This could have been attributed to the CD I was listening to as well. It is much better now.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=35462
Credit: mdeal
I found the parcel to not be securely fastened to the frame, or the metal stuff underneath. I used velcro to further secure the parcel to the metal stuff to add more rigidness. There is a clip which holds the parcel down, but apparently it is not holding it down enough, and it causes vibration. In summary, the BOSE unit is shaking, causing the vibrations to eminate up through the securing clip onto the rear parcel, resulting in a "rattling" of the rear deck sound.
It should be noted the proper way to do this is to take out the rear parcel. For my application, the foam pads (see pics) just behind the BOSE unit were the ones vibrating the most. Others were as well, but those two in particular were the worst.
I plan on going back in and removing the rear parcel completely, and Velcro'ing all spacers.
The pics are here: http://www.fourthrock.com/maxima/mods.html under "BOSE..."
Note: Most of the rattle went away, but there is an ever so slight hint of it, most likely because I didn't not Velcro all spacers. This could have been attributed to the CD I was listening to as well. It is much better now.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=35462
Credit: mdeal
04-28-2001, 02:10 AM
#19
What's this black shield you keep talking about?
For 2001:
What you want to look for is a black plastic shield that is contoured to the inside of the wheel well and covers the filler tube. If it's not there, you're probably seeing what I've seen unless you live down south. Whatever the case, you should take your car back to the dealer and have them install the splash guards if you find them missing.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=26704
Credit: RcticMax
What you want to look for is a black plastic shield that is contoured to the inside of the wheel well and covers the filler tube. If it's not there, you're probably seeing what I've seen unless you live down south. Whatever the case, you should take your car back to the dealer and have them install the splash guards if you find them missing.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=26704
Credit: RcticMax
04-28-2001, 02:12 AM
#20
What does "ooglie" mean?
Jane97SE was the one who came up with this while chatting on AIM with other people. She kept talking about how my antenna was "ugly." Someone she started changing the word from "ugly" to "oogly" then to "ooglie."
There you go, the real history behind to word "ooglie."
\
<~~~~ Smooglie = smilie + ooglie
There you go, the real history behind to word "ooglie."
\
<~~~~ Smooglie = smilie + ooglie
04-28-2001, 02:17 AM
#23
What is the baseline dyno for 2000-2001 5 spds and autos?
5 spds - about 190 hp's at the wheels.
Autos - 160 - 170 hp's at the wheels.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=26333
Autos - 160 - 170 hp's at the wheels.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=26333
Last edited by Puppetmaster; 10-16-2007 at 09:38 AM.
04-28-2001, 02:23 AM
#24
Will mods void my warranty?
The warranty is only void if the dealer can prove that the aftermarket part CAUSED the problem in question.
This is federal law. Don't let any dealer try to tell you different, if they do, go to another one or call Nissan USA and get them to give the service manager a little call too.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=34138
Credit: mzmtg
This is federal law. Don't let any dealer try to tell you different, if they do, go to another one or call Nissan USA and get them to give the service manager a little call too.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=34138
Credit: mzmtg
04-28-2001, 05:07 PM
#25
Cali vs Fed Spec emissions: How do you tell?
First of all, if you have a 2001 Maxima, it has California/NLEV Spec emissions. If not though, you can look under the hood for a white sticker that displays emissions information. If the sticker states anything about meeting California or NLEV emissions standards, you have a Cali/NLEV spec Maxima.
The main difference between Federal and NLEV emissions is that the latter has two precats with a total of four O2 sensors versus a single precat and three O2 sensors for Federal emissions standards. In the Federal Spec emissions Maxima, you will find a single precat built into the intermediate pipe. Two of the sensors are placed before this and the last sensor is after the main cat. The Cali spec Maxima has two precats with one in the intermediate pipe and another one built into the front exhaust manifold. Two O2 sensors are located before the precats and the other two are after each of the precats. There are no O2 sensors after the main cat in this case.
Another, way is by the number of 02-plugs you have on the front valve cover clip/rack:
The main difference between Federal and NLEV emissions is that the latter has two precats with a total of four O2 sensors versus a single precat and three O2 sensors for Federal emissions standards. In the Federal Spec emissions Maxima, you will find a single precat built into the intermediate pipe. Two of the sensors are placed before this and the last sensor is after the main cat. The Cali spec Maxima has two precats with one in the intermediate pipe and another one built into the front exhaust manifold. Two O2 sensors are located before the precats and the other two are after each of the precats. There are no O2 sensors after the main cat in this case.
Another, way is by the number of 02-plugs you have on the front valve cover clip/rack:
04-28-2001, 05:13 PM
#26
Will a Y-Pipe Cause Me to Fail Emissions Testing?
Installing a Y-pipe, or intermediate pipe, will not cause you to fail emissions testing given that you test the car when it is warmed up and that you have not removed the main cat. The Y-pipe removes the precat that is built into the stock pipe. The purpose of the precat is to cut down on emissions when the car is cold since it takes some time for the larger main cat to warm up to operating temperatures. So, if the precat is removed, the only time you may possibly fail emissions is when the car is cold. If the car is running at normal operating temperatures and you have your main cat in place, you should not fail emissions testing. If a visual inspection is involved and the inspector knows what to look for, then that changes the story 
04-28-2001, 08:41 PM
#27
I'm new here, what should I do before asking questions?
Take a look at Maxima.org's FAQ file at:
https://maxima.org/maxfaqs/index.shtml
Another option is to read through some of the old threads because the subject you're looking for was probably discussed already.
https://maxima.org/maxfaqs/index.shtml
Another option is to read through some of the old threads because the subject you're looking for was probably discussed already.
04-28-2001, 08:48 PM
#28
I want to change the light bulbs on my car. What do I look for?
Take a look at:
http://www.dream2kr.com/bulb.html or
http://www.alexhsu.com/webpics/RESULTSFORM.htm
The bulb that is referred to as "torpedo shaped" is T10.
Hey Y2KevSE!
Can you provide a list of the lighting mods on your car (well, like the bulb size, brand, bulb #, etc.) I'm most interested in the side marker/bumper lights and the interiors like the dome/map/door entry lights. Thanks!
PIAA Super Plasma H4 [purplish] (headlight) === H-76
PIAA Xtreme White H3 [whitish/bluish] (foglight) === H-212
Polarg B1 Hybrid Visual [amber] (front signal) === G-34
Polarg B1 Hybrid Visual [amber] (rear signal) === G-07
PIAA Plasma [blue] (front and rear clear markers) === H-63
Polarg B1 Hybrid [red] (brake light) === M-3
GiGaLux [super white] (reverse light) === BW701
No Name LED wedge bulb [blue] (step lights, on doors) ===
Raybrig Hyper bulb [super white] (trunk light) === R130
Polarg B1 Hybrid [super white] (map light) === M-26
Polarg B1 Hybrid [super white] (dome light) === M-16
Credit: Yongjun for the first link, areX for the second link, and PrinzII for the T10 info.
http://www.dream2kr.com/bulb.html or
http://www.alexhsu.com/webpics/RESULTSFORM.htm
The bulb that is referred to as "torpedo shaped" is T10.
Hey Y2KevSE!
Can you provide a list of the lighting mods on your car (well, like the bulb size, brand, bulb #, etc.) I'm most interested in the side marker/bumper lights and the interiors like the dome/map/door entry lights. Thanks!
PIAA Super Plasma H4 [purplish] (headlight) === H-76
PIAA Xtreme White H3 [whitish/bluish] (foglight) === H-212
Polarg B1 Hybrid Visual [amber] (front signal) === G-34
Polarg B1 Hybrid Visual [amber] (rear signal) === G-07
PIAA Plasma [blue] (front and rear clear markers) === H-63
Polarg B1 Hybrid [red] (brake light) === M-3
GiGaLux [super white] (reverse light) === BW701
No Name LED wedge bulb [blue] (step lights, on doors) ===
Raybrig Hyper bulb [super white] (trunk light) === R130
Polarg B1 Hybrid [super white] (map light) === M-26
Polarg B1 Hybrid [super white] (dome light) === M-16
Credit: Yongjun for the first link, areX for the second link, and PrinzII for the T10 info.
04-28-2001, 08:49 PM
#29
Why can't I touch some of my bulbs? What can I do if I did?
In the bulb list, it is stated whether it is ok to touch the bulb or not. For the ones where you are not supposed to touch the bulb, if you do, you may reduce the life of the bulb significantly. If during the install, you happen to touch the bulb, use a lint-free cloth and some rubbing alcohol to clean off the bulb before turning it on.
Credit: UMD_MaxSE
Credit: UMD_MaxSE
04-29-2001, 10:06 AM
#30
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 6,243
Why does my stock Bose CD player stop playing cd's after a while?
If you are running the CD player with the A/C on 65 degrees fahrenheit constantly it will sometimes make your CD very cold. When you change the setting from Radio to CD the Bose won't read the cold CD. Solution. Just take out the cd and wait till its warm and then start playing it again.
I found out this after many hours of long road trips.
I found out this after many hours of long road trips.
04-29-2001, 06:10 PM
#31
How do I reset the ECU?
To reset the ECU, simply unplug the battery for at least an hour or so. Then, start up the car and let it idle for a little bit until the engine reaches normal operating temperature. You should reset the ECU after installing new mods such as a Y-pipe.
05-10-2001, 10:26 AM
#32
Can I run oversized tires on my stock 17" SE Rims?
All right, Flash2k2. Let's use your inquiry as the basis for a tutorial on tire upsizing.
First, I'm only going to deal with four aspects of upsizing: overall wheel/tire diameter, rim width, speed rating and load rating. These are the most critical parameters in terms of safety.
1. OVERALL WHEEL/TIRE DIAMETER: You should maintain an overall wheel/tire diameter that is no more than 3% greater or less than the OEM wheel/tire diameter. Otherwise you'll incur an unacceptable speedometer error. An excellent tool for comparing overall wheel/tire diameters is located at:
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
The OEM wheel/tire diameter is based on a tire size of 225/50R17.
2. RIM WIDTH: The acceptable rim width ranges for various tire sizes are posted on the manufacturers' web sites. NEVER EXCEED THE MINIMUM OR MAXIMUM ACCEPTABLE RIM WIDTH FOR WHATEVER TIRE YOU SELECT. And never accept anyone's advice on what constitutes acceptable rim widths OTHER than the manufacturer's. The word "anyone" specifically includes tire DEALERS and people on this forum. Both are notorious for providing dangerous and irresponsible advice in this area. If you're interested in knowing why you should not exceed acceptable rim widths, take a look at the discussion under the topic of RIM WIDTH in the following article from Dunlop:
http://www.dunloptire.com/tiretech/?...tire_width.txt
Pay particular attention to the words, " . . . could result in failure."
3. SPEED RATING: NEVER PURCHASE A TIRE WITH A SPEED RATING LESS THAN THE SPEED RATING OF YOUR OEM TIRE. Speed ratings are designated by letter (i.e., H, V, Z, etc.) and are imprinted on the tire's sidewall. The speed rating for a 5th Gen Nissan Maxima SE with OEM 17" tires is a "V".
4. LOAD RATING: NEVER PURCHASE A TIRE WITH A LOAD RATING LESS THAN THE LOAD RATING OF THE OEM TIRE. Load ratings are designated by number (i.e, 89, 91, 93, etc.) and are imprinted on the tire's sidewall. The load rating for a 5th Gen Nissan Maxima SE with OEM 17" tires is a "93". In general, the lower the aspect ratio, the lower the load rating. (The Dunlop article referenced above underscores this point. It says, "[c]hanging tires on a vehicle from one aspect ratio to another also influences section width, which relates directly to the load carrying capacity of the tire. The load carrying capacity of the original equipment tire must always be maintained or increased.")
For a complete definition of all major tire sidewall markings and their locations, take a look here:
http://www.dunloptire.com/sidewall.html
Now that you know what to look for, here are a few questions to test your knowledge.
1) Is it OK to mount 235/45R17 tires on OEM 5th Gen Maxima SE rims? The answer is NO! The reason is that the 5th Gen SE rim is only 7" wide. The minimum acceptable rim width for 235/45R17 tires is 7.5". There are no exceptions to this regardless of the tire's make or manufacturer. Once again, check the manufacturer's web site for confirmation.
2) Is it OK to mount 235/40R18 Kumho ECSTA 712 tires with 18" X 8" rims on a 5th Gen Maxima SE? The answer is MAYBE! Why is that? Well let's break it down. The overall wheel/tire diameter only produces a 1.8% speedometer error when compared to the OEM tire size of 225/50R17, so you're OK there. The minimum acceptable rim width is 8", so you're OK there. The speed rating is a "W", so you're OK there. But the load rating is only a 91 as compared to the load rating of 93 for your OEM 17" tires. So on the surface, the tire is not acceptable for use on a 5th Gen Nissan Maxima SE. However, the standard OEM tire on the SE is a 215/55R16 with a 91 load rating. So in this case, you can probably get away with it.
So here's the final exam question. Is it OK to mount 245/40R18 Kumho ECSTA 712 tires with 18" X 8" rims on a 5th Gen Maxima SE? Do the work yourself, Flash2k2. Then let us know what you find out. (And please don't anyone else help him.) If it turns out that your answer is yes, then tell us which tire is the better fit . . . the 235/40R18 or the 245/40R18?
A final comment: NEVER PURCHASE RIMS UNTIL YOU KNOW WHAT SIZE TIRES YOU'RE GOING TO RUN ON THOSE RIMS. Make certain that the tires you select meet all of the above criteria. Then purchase rims that are wide enough to properly support those tires.
Hope that helps.
Credit: y2kse
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?postid=1022066
First, I'm only going to deal with four aspects of upsizing: overall wheel/tire diameter, rim width, speed rating and load rating. These are the most critical parameters in terms of safety.
1. OVERALL WHEEL/TIRE DIAMETER: You should maintain an overall wheel/tire diameter that is no more than 3% greater or less than the OEM wheel/tire diameter. Otherwise you'll incur an unacceptable speedometer error. An excellent tool for comparing overall wheel/tire diameters is located at:
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
The OEM wheel/tire diameter is based on a tire size of 225/50R17.
2. RIM WIDTH: The acceptable rim width ranges for various tire sizes are posted on the manufacturers' web sites. NEVER EXCEED THE MINIMUM OR MAXIMUM ACCEPTABLE RIM WIDTH FOR WHATEVER TIRE YOU SELECT. And never accept anyone's advice on what constitutes acceptable rim widths OTHER than the manufacturer's. The word "anyone" specifically includes tire DEALERS and people on this forum. Both are notorious for providing dangerous and irresponsible advice in this area. If you're interested in knowing why you should not exceed acceptable rim widths, take a look at the discussion under the topic of RIM WIDTH in the following article from Dunlop:
http://www.dunloptire.com/tiretech/?...tire_width.txt
Pay particular attention to the words, " . . . could result in failure."
3. SPEED RATING: NEVER PURCHASE A TIRE WITH A SPEED RATING LESS THAN THE SPEED RATING OF YOUR OEM TIRE. Speed ratings are designated by letter (i.e., H, V, Z, etc.) and are imprinted on the tire's sidewall. The speed rating for a 5th Gen Nissan Maxima SE with OEM 17" tires is a "V".
4. LOAD RATING: NEVER PURCHASE A TIRE WITH A LOAD RATING LESS THAN THE LOAD RATING OF THE OEM TIRE. Load ratings are designated by number (i.e, 89, 91, 93, etc.) and are imprinted on the tire's sidewall. The load rating for a 5th Gen Nissan Maxima SE with OEM 17" tires is a "93". In general, the lower the aspect ratio, the lower the load rating. (The Dunlop article referenced above underscores this point. It says, "[c]hanging tires on a vehicle from one aspect ratio to another also influences section width, which relates directly to the load carrying capacity of the tire. The load carrying capacity of the original equipment tire must always be maintained or increased.")
For a complete definition of all major tire sidewall markings and their locations, take a look here:
http://www.dunloptire.com/sidewall.html
Now that you know what to look for, here are a few questions to test your knowledge.
1) Is it OK to mount 235/45R17 tires on OEM 5th Gen Maxima SE rims? The answer is NO! The reason is that the 5th Gen SE rim is only 7" wide. The minimum acceptable rim width for 235/45R17 tires is 7.5". There are no exceptions to this regardless of the tire's make or manufacturer. Once again, check the manufacturer's web site for confirmation.
2) Is it OK to mount 235/40R18 Kumho ECSTA 712 tires with 18" X 8" rims on a 5th Gen Maxima SE? The answer is MAYBE! Why is that? Well let's break it down. The overall wheel/tire diameter only produces a 1.8% speedometer error when compared to the OEM tire size of 225/50R17, so you're OK there. The minimum acceptable rim width is 8", so you're OK there. The speed rating is a "W", so you're OK there. But the load rating is only a 91 as compared to the load rating of 93 for your OEM 17" tires. So on the surface, the tire is not acceptable for use on a 5th Gen Nissan Maxima SE. However, the standard OEM tire on the SE is a 215/55R16 with a 91 load rating. So in this case, you can probably get away with it.
So here's the final exam question. Is it OK to mount 245/40R18 Kumho ECSTA 712 tires with 18" X 8" rims on a 5th Gen Maxima SE? Do the work yourself, Flash2k2. Then let us know what you find out. (And please don't anyone else help him.) If it turns out that your answer is yes, then tell us which tire is the better fit . . . the 235/40R18 or the 245/40R18?
A final comment: NEVER PURCHASE RIMS UNTIL YOU KNOW WHAT SIZE TIRES YOU'RE GOING TO RUN ON THOSE RIMS. Make certain that the tires you select meet all of the above criteria. Then purchase rims that are wide enough to properly support those tires.
Hope that helps.
Credit: y2kse
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?postid=1022066
05-16-2001, 08:11 PM
#34
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Posts: 254
Is a y-pipe only 2.5 inches?
NO! There are 3" and maybe just maybe you could customize your own.
Cattman produces 3" y pipes. -Y2KevSE
Cattman produces 3" y pipes. -Y2KevSE
05-25-2001, 05:00 PM
#35
What does a VB, TC, or tranny cooler do?
VB mod = valve body modification. Basically, tunes the valve body in the tranny to allow faster, quicker shifts. Slipping is elminated and tranny will eventually last longer.
Tranny Cooler = A radiator-like cooler for the transmission fluid. You need to get this if you have your VB recalibrated. The VB will make for faster shifts and your tranny fluid will run hotter. Heat is very bad for a transmission. The tranny cooler will keep the fluid at a lower temp. You can get this even without the VB mod.
TC = Torque Converter. Your auto has this already, but a stronger TC will increase your stall speed and transfer more power from engine to drivetrain. You will be able to get better launches and will lose less power than you would with your stock tranny.
Credit: UMD_MaxSE
Tranny Cooler = A radiator-like cooler for the transmission fluid. You need to get this if you have your VB recalibrated. The VB will make for faster shifts and your tranny fluid will run hotter. Heat is very bad for a transmission. The tranny cooler will keep the fluid at a lower temp. You can get this even without the VB mod.
TC = Torque Converter. Your auto has this already, but a stronger TC will increase your stall speed and transfer more power from engine to drivetrain. You will be able to get better launches and will lose less power than you would with your stock tranny.
Credit: UMD_MaxSE
05-25-2001, 05:48 PM
#36
Will an AE automatic shift **** fit on a 2000 model?
The answer to the question "Will an AE automatic shift **** fit on a 2000 model?" is yes and no. Some modifications need to be done to the shift assembly (the part the shift **** attaches to) in order to get the AE shift **** to fit and work. Without the modifications to the shift assembly, the AE automatic shift **** will not work: the new shift **** is not plug-n-play on a 2000 model Maxima.
Once you modify the shift assembly, so that the AE **** will fit and work, your stock "T" shaped shift **** WILL NO LONGER WORK. This means once you switch you can not go back unless you purchase a new shift assembly. The shift assembly costs between $200~$300.
I took some notes as to what needs to happen to get the AE shift **** fitted and working on a 2000 model Maxima. I did not have a camera at the time I actually did the work, but I have summarized the key points on my website. The key points are the measurements and what needs to be modified. I took pics after I had everything done and some time later.
I do not include instructions on how to remove the center console, nor do I include instructions on how to disconnect the OD wires and reconnect the OD wires. You can PM me and I can assist with these two items.
Here are my notes:
http://www.fourthrock.com/maxima/mods.html and choose "Non-AE Automatic Transmission Shift **** Installation".
Good luck!
Once you modify the shift assembly, so that the AE **** will fit and work, your stock "T" shaped shift **** WILL NO LONGER WORK. This means once you switch you can not go back unless you purchase a new shift assembly. The shift assembly costs between $200~$300.
I took some notes as to what needs to happen to get the AE shift **** fitted and working on a 2000 model Maxima. I did not have a camera at the time I actually did the work, but I have summarized the key points on my website. The key points are the measurements and what needs to be modified. I took pics after I had everything done and some time later.
I do not include instructions on how to remove the center console, nor do I include instructions on how to disconnect the OD wires and reconnect the OD wires. You can PM me and I can assist with these two items.
Here are my notes:
http://www.fourthrock.com/maxima/mods.html and choose "Non-AE Automatic Transmission Shift **** Installation".
Good luck!
06-10-2001, 09:18 AM
#37
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 3,528
How do I stop the clunking/banking noises from my Addco RSB?
Move the rear brackets in towards the center of the car and the noise should stop. I moved mine in 3"-4". They may not need to be moved that far in, experiment.
06-28-2001, 08:52 AM
#38
I want to supercharge my 5th gen auto
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=48905
Credit: Everyone who responded to the thread.
Credit: Everyone who responded to the thread.
07-14-2001, 11:21 AM
#39
Anyone weighed a 5th gen SE 16" wheel or 17" wheel?
I weighed my 16" 5 spoke rim and it came out to 18.5, with a tire it's 41. I weighed my former 17" wheel and came up with 47 lbs. 6 lbs is a big difference for drag racing.
Credit: Paul2kGXE
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=52422
Credit: Paul2kGXE
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=52422
07-16-2001, 07:38 AM
#40
Will a Y-pipe increase my exhaust noise level?
A y-pipe in combination with a stock catalytic convertor and catback system will not appreciably increase your exhaust noise level. However, a Y-pipe will magnify the amount of sound produced by ANY other modifications to your exhaust system. The more extensive the modifications, the more exhaust noise that will be produced.
Credit: Everyone in the thread and y2kse for the suggestion
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=52390
Credit: Everyone in the thread and y2kse for the suggestion
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=52390