Bose HU is removed, Kenwood HU is installed
03-02-2003, 01:57 PM
#1
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Location: Charlotte, NC
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Bose HU is removed, Kenwood HU is installed
Well, the switch is done. I revealed the system on March 1 to all the Central Florida Maxes. The Kenwood HU is definitely nicer quality than the stock Bose HU, even though I lost the 6-disc changer in the dash.
As for the sound.... the sound is 200% better. I'm still on the Bose speakers and amp, but the sound was noticably clearer. The highs were high, and the lows were low. The system feels like it is NOW ready to carry the Bose name on it.
I tried wiring the system 3 different ways to see what produced the best volume/clarity. I ended up using PAC's ROEM-NIS2 kit and the speaker-level wires on the HU. I wanted to run from the HU's RCA preamps to the Bose amp, but the volume wasn't there. I had the HU all the way maxed out at 35 and the sound wasn't all that loud. So I tried hooking up the HU's RCA preamps to the PAC kit, but I had the same problem. So I used speaker-level into the PAC kit instead. The volume was much better, and surprisingly not distorted at all. I checked the system with a test tones CD for clarity as well.
As for the face trim, I used the Metra 99-7416 kit. They say it's made for 2000-2001, but it fit my 2002 without any problems (actually it is a really nice tight fit that complements the stock dash pieces). There were no gaps, holes, or problems. The kit comes black, so I just left it for now. The kit supports a single DIN style radio. There's isn't a good way to change the kit to a double DIN kit, so if you want double-DIN, don't get that kit.
I'll be replacing the Metra kit with the Nissan trim that's designed for the Navi. But I'm not doing that until I replace the speakers and Bose amp. I'll be adding a 4 channel amp, component speakers in the front, and mid-ranges (possibly components if I can find ones that fit) in the rear. When I add all of that, I'll be adding Kenwood's graphic EQ to the setup. I'll get a custom sub box built too, so as you can see, it will be a big expense. So for now, I'll stick with what I've got.
Any questions/comments are welcome.
Edit: The upgrade is complete. The Bose has been removed.
Click here to see how the final project turned out.
Scroll down to the bottom and click on "My Custom Audio Install".
As for the sound.... the sound is 200% better. I'm still on the Bose speakers and amp, but the sound was noticably clearer. The highs were high, and the lows were low. The system feels like it is NOW ready to carry the Bose name on it.
I tried wiring the system 3 different ways to see what produced the best volume/clarity. I ended up using PAC's ROEM-NIS2 kit and the speaker-level wires on the HU. I wanted to run from the HU's RCA preamps to the Bose amp, but the volume wasn't there. I had the HU all the way maxed out at 35 and the sound wasn't all that loud. So I tried hooking up the HU's RCA preamps to the PAC kit, but I had the same problem. So I used speaker-level into the PAC kit instead. The volume was much better, and surprisingly not distorted at all. I checked the system with a test tones CD for clarity as well.
As for the face trim, I used the Metra 99-7416 kit. They say it's made for 2000-2001, but it fit my 2002 without any problems (actually it is a really nice tight fit that complements the stock dash pieces). There were no gaps, holes, or problems. The kit comes black, so I just left it for now. The kit supports a single DIN style radio. There's isn't a good way to change the kit to a double DIN kit, so if you want double-DIN, don't get that kit.
I'll be replacing the Metra kit with the Nissan trim that's designed for the Navi. But I'm not doing that until I replace the speakers and Bose amp. I'll be adding a 4 channel amp, component speakers in the front, and mid-ranges (possibly components if I can find ones that fit) in the rear. When I add all of that, I'll be adding Kenwood's graphic EQ to the setup. I'll get a custom sub box built too, so as you can see, it will be a big expense. So for now, I'll stick with what I've got.
Any questions/comments are welcome.
Edit: The upgrade is complete. The Bose has been removed.
Click here to see how the final project turned out.
Scroll down to the bottom and click on "My Custom Audio Install".
06-21-2003, 06:49 PM
#2
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 23
I had the same problem you had with the volume being too quite on a replacement HU. (I have an empeg)
Since the empeg doesn't have speaker-level output, I'd ordered the same PAC ROEM-NIS2 that you mention. Just as in your case, it didn't help at all.
But you describe using the OEM-1 with speaker-level outputs (which I don't have)... I'm returning mine since it doesn't appear to do anything. Since your HU already has speaker-level outputs, can't you just hook those up to the Bose amp and return the OEM-1? or is it performing some other function for you?
Since the empeg doesn't have speaker-level output, I'd ordered the same PAC ROEM-NIS2 that you mention. Just as in your case, it didn't help at all.
But you describe using the OEM-1 with speaker-level outputs (which I don't have)... I'm returning mine since it doesn't appear to do anything. Since your HU already has speaker-level outputs, can't you just hook those up to the Bose amp and return the OEM-1? or is it performing some other function for you?
06-22-2003, 09:47 AM
#3
do you think a 2k2 non-bose system would sound considerably better with an aftermarket h/u? i have a system in my car but i like to keep the stock h/u for the sleeper look. but if i can gain alot of sound quality then its worth the tradeoff for me.
06-22-2003, 02:06 PM
#4
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TheAmigo: No. You need the kit in order to convert the high voltage output to a low voltage output. The Bose amp expects certain voltages from the HU and an aftermarket HU won't provide those voltages.
slickrick: Honestly, I don't know. I've not had a chance to compare the non-bose HU to an aftermarket HU.
slickrick: Honestly, I don't know. I've not had a chance to compare the non-bose HU to an aftermarket HU.
06-22-2003, 10:32 PM
#6
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Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 446
So will this kit also work for the 4th gen bose system? My head unit crapped out on me the other day and I want to replace it with an aftermarket one, so if this kit will do the trick it would be awesome. Also where can Ipick one up, and for how much?
06-23-2003, 08:16 AM
#7
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BJJ: Yes. Get the ROEM-NIS2 kit from http://www.affsave.com/pac4.htm
06-23-2003, 03:16 PM
#9
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drsprite: Difference? Um, sorta. Basically, my trunk doesn't rattle and vibrate like a Civic with 4 10's in it. That's because the sound is pushed into the cabin and not into the rear bumper. I did that for clarity reasons, not volume. Because they don't face the trunk, I get less overall SPL (volume), but the bass is cleaner and more defined. And it only shakes the car when I have it turned up pretty loud. I don't want too much vibration in the car unless I put it there.
06-27-2003, 04:47 PM
#10
Re: Bose HU is removed, Kenwood HU is installed
I also have a 4th-gen Maxima, like BJJ. Studman, are the speaker level wires from an aftermarket head-unit all I need to hook up to the Bose amp/speaker? How does the amps get its 12v and turn-on signal? I did notice that there are two fuses in the fuse-box for the audio system. One is labelled BOSE and the other is labelled AUDIO. So I am assuming that the BOSE amp gets its 12v from the BOSE fuse. Does this ROEM-NIS2 kit only provide signal adaptability to the BOSE system? Then the only remaining issue is turn-on 12v signal from the HU (if it has any). Can you shed some light on this Studman? Thanks
Originally posted by studman
Well, the switch is done. I revealed the system on March 1 to all the Central Florida Maxes. The Kenwood HU is definitely nicer quality than the stock Bose HU, even though I lost the 6-disc changer in the dash.
As for the sound.... the sound is 200% better. I'm still on the Bose speakers and amp, but the sound was noticably clearer. The highs were high, and the lows were low. The system feels like it is NOW ready to carry the Bose name on it.
I tried wiring the system 3 different ways to see what produced the best volume/clarity. I ended up using PAC's ROEM-NIS2 kit and the speaker-level wires on the HU. I wanted to run from the HU's RCA preamps to the Bose amp, but the volume wasn't there. I had the HU all the way maxed out at 35 and the sound wasn't all that loud. So I tried hooking up the HU's RCA preamps to the PAC kit, but I had the same problem. So I used speaker-level into the PAC kit instead. The volume was much better, and surprisingly not distorted at all. I checked the system with a test tones CD for clarity as well.
As for the face trim, I used the Metra 99-7416 kit. They say it's made for 2000-2001, but it fit my 2002 without any problems (actually it is a really nice tight fit that complements the stock dash pieces). There were no gaps, holes, or problems. The kit comes black, so I just left it for now. The kit supports a single DIN style radio. There's isn't a good way to change the kit to a double DIN kit, so if you want double-DIN, don't get that kit.
I'll be replacing the Metra kit with the Nissan trim that's designed for the Navi. But I'm not doing that until I replace the speakers and Bose amp. I'll be adding a 4 channel amp, component speakers in the front, and mid-ranges (possibly components if I can find ones that fit) in the rear. When I add all of that, I'll be adding Kenwood's graphic EQ to the setup. I'll get a custom sub box built too, so as you can see, it will be a big expense. So for now, I'll stick with what I've got.
Any questions/comments are welcome.
Edit: The upgrade is complete. The Bose has been removed.
Click here to see how the final project turned out.
Scroll down to the bottom and click on "My Custom Audio Install".
Well, the switch is done. I revealed the system on March 1 to all the Central Florida Maxes. The Kenwood HU is definitely nicer quality than the stock Bose HU, even though I lost the 6-disc changer in the dash.
As for the sound.... the sound is 200% better. I'm still on the Bose speakers and amp, but the sound was noticably clearer. The highs were high, and the lows were low. The system feels like it is NOW ready to carry the Bose name on it.
I tried wiring the system 3 different ways to see what produced the best volume/clarity. I ended up using PAC's ROEM-NIS2 kit and the speaker-level wires on the HU. I wanted to run from the HU's RCA preamps to the Bose amp, but the volume wasn't there. I had the HU all the way maxed out at 35 and the sound wasn't all that loud. So I tried hooking up the HU's RCA preamps to the PAC kit, but I had the same problem. So I used speaker-level into the PAC kit instead. The volume was much better, and surprisingly not distorted at all. I checked the system with a test tones CD for clarity as well.
As for the face trim, I used the Metra 99-7416 kit. They say it's made for 2000-2001, but it fit my 2002 without any problems (actually it is a really nice tight fit that complements the stock dash pieces). There were no gaps, holes, or problems. The kit comes black, so I just left it for now. The kit supports a single DIN style radio. There's isn't a good way to change the kit to a double DIN kit, so if you want double-DIN, don't get that kit.
I'll be replacing the Metra kit with the Nissan trim that's designed for the Navi. But I'm not doing that until I replace the speakers and Bose amp. I'll be adding a 4 channel amp, component speakers in the front, and mid-ranges (possibly components if I can find ones that fit) in the rear. When I add all of that, I'll be adding Kenwood's graphic EQ to the setup. I'll get a custom sub box built too, so as you can see, it will be a big expense. So for now, I'll stick with what I've got.
Any questions/comments are welcome.
Edit: The upgrade is complete. The Bose has been removed.
Click here to see how the final project turned out.
Scroll down to the bottom and click on "My Custom Audio Install".
06-27-2003, 08:49 PM
#11
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 1,687
The ROEM-NIS2 handles it all. There is a remote-turn-on circuit, power, ground, ignition, and speaker wires incorporated into the ROEM-NIS2. All you have to do is remove the factory harness from the back of the Bose HU and plug it into the ROEM-NIS2. The other end of the ROEM-NIS2 has wires that you can hook up to your aftermarket HU. The ROEM-NIS2 passes all voltages and signals through it. It only modifies the audio signal to adjust it to the Bose level that is expected by the amp.
06-27-2003, 09:31 PM
#12
Thanks for the reply. I'm going to be getting them too. Do you know where I can get them for less? BTW, I was looking at www.affsave.com and saw the PAC OEM1. What's the difference between that and the ROEM-NIS2? Where did you set the gain adjustment to make it sound just right?
06-27-2003, 11:21 PM
#13
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 1,687
www.affsave.com sells the ROEM-NIS2 at the best price.. $60 inc. shipping
Here's the difference between the kits:
The ROEM-NIS2 kit includes:
OEM-1 (Convertor)
AMP-NIS2 (Hooks up to factory harness/amps/speakers)
RAD-UNV (Has wires that you connect to your aftermarket radio)
The AOEM-NIS2 kit includes:
OEM-1 (Convertor)
AMP-RCA (Has 4 RCA outputs on it)
ADD-NIS2 (Hooks up to factory HU)
The ROEM-NIS2 was designed to replace the stock HU, while keeping the system.
The AOEM-NIS2 was designed to add an amp and/or replace the stock amp/speakers.
The OEM-1 is included in both kits.
Here's the difference between the kits:
The ROEM-NIS2 kit includes:
OEM-1 (Convertor)
AMP-NIS2 (Hooks up to factory harness/amps/speakers)
RAD-UNV (Has wires that you connect to your aftermarket radio)
The AOEM-NIS2 kit includes:
OEM-1 (Convertor)
AMP-RCA (Has 4 RCA outputs on it)
ADD-NIS2 (Hooks up to factory HU)
The ROEM-NIS2 was designed to replace the stock HU, while keeping the system.
The AOEM-NIS2 was designed to add an amp and/or replace the stock amp/speakers.
The OEM-1 is included in both kits.
06-28-2003, 12:24 PM
#16
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BTW, I just remembered, what about the connection to the antenna? I know that Nissan has this weird antenna connection. Where do you get the conversion for that?
06-28-2003, 08:45 PM
#17
I was at Circuit City today, just checking out some car flip-up DVD player/receiver and saw that they have the Peripheral Electronics Bose replacement adapter, part# NISAH4N. I asked a sales person about it and he gave me all his reasons why I shouldn't get it and that I'd have to rewire and bypass the Bose amp for it to sound good. We'll I didn't believe him and went and got it anyway, it's $44 so I figured why not try it. The install was very straight forward. One module does everything: level converter, factory amp/speaker connection, and all the power connections. One thing that I didn't see in the instruction is that the rear connector's blue/white lead for remote turn-on has to be connected also to the aftermarket headunit's remote turn-on lead. Otherwise, there'll be no audio at all. For now, I used an old Pioneer headunit, model DEH-P5200 but it's a really good unit because it has built-in high-pass/low-pass filters and 3-Band Parametric Equalizer plus it has a sub-out with a dedicated low-pass filter adjustments just in case I decide to add an amp and sub later on. The result exceeded my expectations. The Pioneer sounded way better than the Bose headunit. Plus the Pioneer can be fine tuned some more by using its built-in crossover. What I also did was that I turned up the headunit's main volume **** to about 2/3 of the way, and then turned up the channel gains on the adapter about 3/4 of the way (just before it starts sounding distorted). The overall sound is very clean, w/o any distortion. I still couldn't believe how good it sounds 
. I'm done for now until this coming winter time. I wanted to wait til the cool whether months to put in the bumpin' system.
. I'm done for now until this coming winter time. I wanted to wait til the cool whether months to put in the bumpin' system.
06-29-2003, 11:19 AM
#19
jetblack5spd, I already have a whole system waiting to be installed. I just don't want to put in a 5-6 hour install in 110 degree heat! Inside the garage, it's even hotter because the heat is trapped inside, a shop fan doesn't help much cuz all it'll do is move the heat around inside.
07-01-2003, 06:19 PM
#20
Question for anyone...when I replaced the Bose with the Pionner h/u, the antenna goes up even when I'm just using the CD player. I remember that with the Bose h/u, the only time the antenna goes up is when the radio is being used. The antenna goes down when switching over to the CD player. Any suggestions?
07-01-2003, 08:00 PM
#21
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Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 446
Originally posted by 2DaMax
Question for anyone...when I replaced the Bose with the Pionner h/u, the antenna goes up even when I'm just using the CD player. I remember that with the Bose h/u, the only time the antenna goes up is when the radio is being used. The antenna goes down when switching over to the CD player. Any suggestions?
Question for anyone...when I replaced the Bose with the Pionner h/u, the antenna goes up even when I'm just using the CD player. I remember that with the Bose h/u, the only time the antenna goes up is when the radio is being used. The antenna goes down when switching over to the CD player. Any suggestions?
07-01-2003, 08:31 PM
#22
Had to get an adapter. I don't think the oem connector fits any aftermarket h/u w/o using an adapter. I was thinking initially that one of the pins on the oem antenna connector is actually a control lead which makes the antenna go up or down depending on which source is active: radio or cd. That control lead is used by the Bose headunit. But how does an aftermarket h/u tell the antenna to go up (when radio is used) and go down (when cd player is used)? Perhaps that feature is built into the Bose radio but not in aftermarket h/u.
07-02-2003, 07:08 AM
#23
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Posts: 1,687
The Bose HU didn't power the antenna turn-on wire when the CD player/tape deck was used. This is very common among factory HUs for alot of manufacturers.
Your new HU powers the circuit the entire time the unit is on, so that's why it is always up. This is done by design of the new HU manufacturer.
The antenna is NOT powered through the Nissan antenna connector. There is a seperate wire in the harness that handles that.
Your new HU powers the circuit the entire time the unit is on, so that's why it is always up. This is done by design of the new HU manufacturer.
The antenna is NOT powered through the Nissan antenna connector. There is a seperate wire in the harness that handles that.
12-26-2003, 07:55 AM
#27
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 198
Roem-nis2
[QUOTE=studman]www.affsave.com sells the ROEM-NIS2 at the best price.. $60 inc. shipping
Here's the difference between the kits:
The ROEM-NIS2 kit includes:
OEM-1 (Convertor)
AMP-NIS2 (Hooks up to factory harness/amps/speakers)
RAD-UNV (Has wires that you connect to your aftermarket radio)
Has anyone purchased these 3 items separately from this site:
http://www.audiowarehouse.peachhost.com/
I don't know enough to know if they're the right components, but the 3 part names match up, and the total price for all 3 is $46 plus whatever they charge for shipping.
Also, where'd you get that trim kit? Looks pretty nice, even though you say its only temporary.
Anyone have experience with installing an aftermarket HU with a direct connected XM Radio unit directly below it? Can you even do that, or are they all FM modulated?
And while I'm at it, if I want to add an amp and sub in the trunk, with this setup, will it be as simple as finding a HU with a sub preout, and bring an RCA cable and power wire back to the trunk? Will I need anything else? Should I be concerned about buying a HU with some sort of crossover to prevent bass being sent to the old BOSE amp and speakers? I'm not what you'd call learned in this area.
Here's the difference between the kits:
The ROEM-NIS2 kit includes:
OEM-1 (Convertor)
AMP-NIS2 (Hooks up to factory harness/amps/speakers)
RAD-UNV (Has wires that you connect to your aftermarket radio)
Has anyone purchased these 3 items separately from this site:
http://www.audiowarehouse.peachhost.com/
I don't know enough to know if they're the right components, but the 3 part names match up, and the total price for all 3 is $46 plus whatever they charge for shipping.
Also, where'd you get that trim kit? Looks pretty nice, even though you say its only temporary.
Anyone have experience with installing an aftermarket HU with a direct connected XM Radio unit directly below it? Can you even do that, or are they all FM modulated?
And while I'm at it, if I want to add an amp and sub in the trunk, with this setup, will it be as simple as finding a HU with a sub preout, and bring an RCA cable and power wire back to the trunk? Will I need anything else? Should I be concerned about buying a HU with some sort of crossover to prevent bass being sent to the old BOSE amp and speakers? I'm not what you'd call learned in this area.
12-29-2003, 06:32 AM
#28
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 1,687
Has anyone purchased these 3 items separately from this site:
Also, where'd you get that trim kit? Looks pretty nice, even though you say its only temporary.
If the trim is gray in color, it's from Scosche (available at Circuit City).
The current trim I have is from a 2000 GXE Maxima. DaveB sells it for about $80-90. His number is in the FAQ.
Anyone have experience with installing an aftermarket HU with a direct connected XM Radio unit directly below it? Can you even do that, or are they all FM modulated?
And while I'm at it, if I want to add an amp and sub in the trunk, with this setup, will it be as simple as finding a HU with a sub preout, and bring an RCA cable and power wire back to the trunk?
Should I be concerned about buying a HU with some sort of crossover to prevent bass being sent to the old BOSE amp and speakers?
02-24-2004, 10:43 AM
#31
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,875
Hey studman,
Just out of curiousity, why on earth did you buy teh pac interface for.
Here are my thoughts, If you went with a Kenwood HU, the internal amplifier far EXCEEDS the crappy BOSE amp and speakers.
For the price of the PAC interface, you could have replaced your 6.5" in the front and 5.25" speakers in the reare from ebay and still had spare change to upgrade the tweeters. I really don't understand why people retain bose speakers and amps, and buy this PAC interface. Its a complete waste of money. Any aftermakret 2 way coaxials will kick the living daylights out of the stock bose speakers.
I have always removed the entire BOSE system on any maxima i owned. IE. my 2k2, ripped out bose. In my 2k3, from the first day i brought it home from the dealer, i ripped the bose system out like the same day!.
BOSE sucks period. Your kenwood deck powering coaxials will yeild you 1000% better sound than using the PAC interface and the BOSE amps and speakers. And for very marginal prices.
ALSO
in terms of the low volume with the PAC interface.
THIS IS SIMPLE.
The RCA line level outputs are about 4 volts going into the pac interface, which sends it to the inputs on the bose amps. The thing with the crappy bose amp is that its a BOOSTER amp, not a normal amp. In that it BOOSTS speakerlevel inputs to be louder. The Stock BOSE headunit actually sends out speaker level outputs as opposed to line level. Therefore your linelevel outputs do not have the juice to push the BOSE amp to max output.
The drawback is most headunits including Kenwood output near 22watts RMS a channel or so (peak being like 50watts), which may be way to powerful for the PAC interface, if not it iwll end up distorted at higher volumes.
Just a thought.
ED
Just out of curiousity, why on earth did you buy teh pac interface for.
Here are my thoughts, If you went with a Kenwood HU, the internal amplifier far EXCEEDS the crappy BOSE amp and speakers.
For the price of the PAC interface, you could have replaced your 6.5" in the front and 5.25" speakers in the reare from ebay and still had spare change to upgrade the tweeters. I really don't understand why people retain bose speakers and amps, and buy this PAC interface. Its a complete waste of money. Any aftermakret 2 way coaxials will kick the living daylights out of the stock bose speakers.
I have always removed the entire BOSE system on any maxima i owned. IE. my 2k2, ripped out bose. In my 2k3, from the first day i brought it home from the dealer, i ripped the bose system out like the same day!.
BOSE sucks period. Your kenwood deck powering coaxials will yeild you 1000% better sound than using the PAC interface and the BOSE amps and speakers. And for very marginal prices.
ALSO
in terms of the low volume with the PAC interface.
THIS IS SIMPLE.
The RCA line level outputs are about 4 volts going into the pac interface, which sends it to the inputs on the bose amps. The thing with the crappy bose amp is that its a BOOSTER amp, not a normal amp. In that it BOOSTS speakerlevel inputs to be louder. The Stock BOSE headunit actually sends out speaker level outputs as opposed to line level. Therefore your linelevel outputs do not have the juice to push the BOSE amp to max output.
The drawback is most headunits including Kenwood output near 22watts RMS a channel or so (peak being like 50watts), which may be way to powerful for the PAC interface, if not it iwll end up distorted at higher volumes.
Just a thought.
ED
02-24-2004, 11:08 AM
#32
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 198
I did the same thing that studman did, and here's why:
First off, the PAC interface cost me $43. If you think I can get a good pair of 6.5s and 5.25s for that amount, and have them exceed the BOSE speakers in sound quality, you're insane. Not to mention the time and money you save by not having to rewire everything.
Secondly, it gives you a little more flexibility with selecting a head unit. If my plan was to buy 4 speakers as well as a head unit, then I'd have to get an amp if I wanted to use a non-powered HU. By keeping the BOSE amps and speakers, I could get, for example, an Alpine CDA-7990, or the eclipse, clarion, etc equivalent, and upgrade my speakers / amp at a later point (or not at all).
Also, the BOSE HU is by far the weakest link in the system. I think that for 7 year old speakers, the ones in my 97 still sound decent. Especially for being free.
I'd love to have a couple pairs of new Cl-6s or something else that I could listen to and definitely tell that they're better than the BOSE. But for $43, I'm getting no such thing...
First off, the PAC interface cost me $43. If you think I can get a good pair of 6.5s and 5.25s for that amount, and have them exceed the BOSE speakers in sound quality, you're insane. Not to mention the time and money you save by not having to rewire everything.
Secondly, it gives you a little more flexibility with selecting a head unit. If my plan was to buy 4 speakers as well as a head unit, then I'd have to get an amp if I wanted to use a non-powered HU. By keeping the BOSE amps and speakers, I could get, for example, an Alpine CDA-7990, or the eclipse, clarion, etc equivalent, and upgrade my speakers / amp at a later point (or not at all).
Also, the BOSE HU is by far the weakest link in the system. I think that for 7 year old speakers, the ones in my 97 still sound decent. Especially for being free.
I'd love to have a couple pairs of new Cl-6s or something else that I could listen to and definitely tell that they're better than the BOSE. But for $43, I'm getting no such thing...
02-24-2004, 01:27 PM
#34
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: NJ and AZ
Posts: 548
so basically you buy the adapter or you buy a new hu and new speakers correct?
how about wiring new speakers to the hu instead. Im lanning on putting a new system in eventually because my bose just isnt good with my subs, and im planning on getting type r subs. well heres my thread i put it int he wrong forum i guess but here
vhttp://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=287952
it has all my plans of what i want to do
how about wiring new speakers to the hu instead. Im lanning on putting a new system in eventually because my bose just isnt good with my subs, and im planning on getting type r subs. well heres my thread i put it int he wrong forum i guess but here
vhttp://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=287952
it has all my plans of what i want to do
02-24-2004, 01:31 PM
#35
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: NJ and AZ
Posts: 548
so basically you buy the adapter or you buy a new hu and new speakers correct?
how about wiring new speakers to the hu instead. Im lanning on putting a new system in eventually because my bose just isnt good with my subs, and im planning on getting type r subs. well heres my thread i put it int he wrong forum i guess but here
vhttp://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=287952
it has all my plans of what i want to do
how about wiring new speakers to the hu instead. Im lanning on putting a new system in eventually because my bose just isnt good with my subs, and im planning on getting type r subs. well heres my thread i put it int he wrong forum i guess but here
vhttp://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=287952
it has all my plans of what i want to do
02-24-2004, 01:38 PM
#36
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 1,687
Ok....
1... This thread is way old, but still a valid topic.
2... The PAC kit is plug-n-play. It's also tested, tried, and used. And it's cheap on top of that. Oh, and did I mention that you don't have to splice wires.
3... The PAC kit is MADE for our cars. They make the harnesses for both sides (Nissan specific), as well as the convertor for the Bose amp. Obviously, a Bose system in the Nissan Maxima isn't much different in design from the one in the Altima, except for the physical looks of it. Granted, there is a much better sounding system in the Altima, but how the HU sends the signal to the amp hasn't changed. And it's the same for almost every Bose system out there, regardless of who makes the HU, speakers, amps, and cars that they are installed it. This is why the PAC kit is a universal Bose kit. They just went one step further and provided you plug-n-play cables to go with, so you could remove it.
4... Don't forget about leased vehicles. Some people don't want to replace the speakers or amps because the car is leased.
5... My Bose has been scrapped completely. There's another thread on the .org elsewhere about it. Check out my homepage for more information on all the changes to my system.
1... This thread is way old, but still a valid topic.
2... The PAC kit is plug-n-play. It's also tested, tried, and used. And it's cheap on top of that. Oh, and did I mention that you don't have to splice wires.
3... The PAC kit is MADE for our cars. They make the harnesses for both sides (Nissan specific), as well as the convertor for the Bose amp. Obviously, a Bose system in the Nissan Maxima isn't much different in design from the one in the Altima, except for the physical looks of it. Granted, there is a much better sounding system in the Altima, but how the HU sends the signal to the amp hasn't changed. And it's the same for almost every Bose system out there, regardless of who makes the HU, speakers, amps, and cars that they are installed it. This is why the PAC kit is a universal Bose kit. They just went one step further and provided you plug-n-play cables to go with, so you could remove it.
4... Don't forget about leased vehicles. Some people don't want to replace the speakers or amps because the car is leased.
5... My Bose has been scrapped completely. There's another thread on the .org elsewhere about it. Check out my homepage for more information on all the changes to my system.
02-24-2004, 08:46 PM
#37
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,875
Sorry studman, yes this thread is old
But i guess its a heads up to others... you can get new speakers for under $50US all four on EBAY... even coustics are better than BOSE.. TRUST ME... if you get a decent deck, don't waste it on this stupid adapter .... Even if you have to spend an extra $50 for speakers, just wire direct... and the install is not hard at all.. would take an ever joe 1 hour to swap all four spekers.
The toughest part is to bypass the bose amp in the trunk by connecting the input wires directly to the output wires.
ED
But i guess its a heads up to others... you can get new speakers for under $50US all four on EBAY... even coustics are better than BOSE.. TRUST ME... if you get a decent deck, don't waste it on this stupid adapter .... Even if you have to spend an extra $50 for speakers, just wire direct... and the install is not hard at all.. would take an ever joe 1 hour to swap all four spekers.
The toughest part is to bypass the bose amp in the trunk by connecting the input wires directly to the output wires.
ED
02-25-2004, 04:07 AM
#38
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 198
Originally Posted by MiniRX7
... and the install is not hard at all.. would take an ever joe 1 hour to swap all four spekers.
Jeez...if you can rewire and replace all four speakers in a Maxima in an hour, you should be doing it for a living.
02-25-2004, 08:13 PM
#40
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,875
LOL..
No i am no mechanic or audio guru (actually a professional accountant at Pricewaterhouse Coopers), but I have been in and out of my maxima/protege/ infact any car i owned, or friends cars, ripping things appart etc..
The maxima is really easy to take apart.. I have taken apart both the 2k2/2k3 and its a breeze..
Let me tell you, i had to redo all the wiring in my car to get my xbox to interface with hte Nissan steeringwheel, and ignition feeds
ED
No i am no mechanic or audio guru (actually a professional accountant at Pricewaterhouse Coopers), but I have been in and out of my maxima/protege/ infact any car i owned, or friends cars, ripping things appart etc..
The maxima is really easy to take apart.. I have taken apart both the 2k2/2k3 and its a breeze..
Let me tell you, i had to redo all the wiring in my car to get my xbox to interface with hte Nissan steeringwheel, and ignition feeds
ED