davemax

My car has been giving me a hard time starting all week. The check engine light also has been on all week but i only have time to check it out on the week ends.I have been jumping starting my car in the morning only when it has been realy cold. So i thought it was the bayttery and wnet out and bought one and installed it.
It still won't start so i checked the engine codes and the computer gave me 0101(upstream oxygen sensor heater or circiut fault), 0303 (upstream oxygen sensor circiut fault),0701 (Multiple Cylinder Misfire detected). Are any of these a reason for my car not starting..If yes what do i have to do to fix it.
Plaese help
Thanks

davemax

Just Wnet outside to start my car to see what would happen. The engine kept turning finnally it started.I confussed. The engine light is still on????

Daniel B. Martin

This is a confusing welter of symptoms which might arise from multiple malfunctions. It's not a pretty picture.

Possible Problem #1...
Your engine may have been flooded. This caused hard starting and when the engine did finally start it was running rich. The rich mixture caused the engine to run poorly, triggering the Diagnostic Trouble Code 0701. The engine generated a lot of black soot which collected on the sensing element of the Left Bank Oxygen Sensor, rendering it useless and triggering Diagnostic Trouble Code 0303.

You may test this "flooded engine" theory by cranking the engine with the gas pedal pressed all the way to the floor. Cranking with Wide Open Throttle is a signal to the Engine Control Module to "clear a flooded engine". If this technique gets the engine to run you will want to figure out why the engine got flooded in the first place. Possible causes of a flooded engine include
- fuel injectors which stick open
- bad fuel pressure regulator
- obstructed fuel return line

If you are lucky the Oxygen Sensor will recover spontaneously. If not you will have to remove the Oxygen Sensor and replace or rejuvenate it. I have read that an Oxygen Sensor may sometimes be rejuventated by clamping it in a vise and heating the sensing tip red hot with a propane torch. This is said to burn away the crust of deposits which prevents the sensor from working. I have never tried this trick, so cannot vouch for its effectiveness. If your sensor is already "dead" there isn't much to lose.

Possible Problem #2...
You identified DTC 0101 as "upstream oxygen sensor heater or circuit fault." Please double-check this number. My book says DTC 0101 is caused by the Camshaft Position Sensor (Phase). This sensor is located on the engine front cover facing the camshaft sprocket. It detects the cylinder number signal. The Engine Control Module uses this signal to control spark plug firing order and also to sequence the fuel injectors correctly. If the CPS is bad the ECM will fire the plugs at the wrong time, or not fire them at all. This would account for a no-fire symptom.

Daniel B. Martin

The Malfunction Indicator Light will stay on until you reset the Engine Control Module.

davemax

That for the help. I think the reason that my engine got flooded was due to giving it gas to try to start it up. Another reason might have been because i kept on turning the key to see if the engine would turn for long periods of time. Now i have to reset my ECM. Not to sure on how to do it but i have a hayes book that i will read........

Daniel B. Martin

Haynes covers the ECM reset on page 6-6. You will also find instructions to do a DTC readout and reset the Check Engine light at Steve Cutchen's excellent MaxFAQs page: http://web2.airmail.net/scutchen/max_faq/

got rice?

iTrader: (2)

have the CAS tested & replaced. I guarantee this will fix the problem. You're getting fuel but no spark. The O2 sensors are reading an ultra rich mixture because the air/fuel are flowing right through the combustion chamber unburnt.

the CAS failed on my Z, causing the car to crank and crank but not start. Other Zers had the same problem and once the CAS was replaced, the car started right up.

Before the starting problems, did you have any other symptoms like bad gas mileage, rough idle, stumble during driving?

davemax

What is the CAS? No i did not have any propblems with gas millage or idling. The only time i had a problem with the idle was today when i finally got the car going. I smelled some rich fumes coming out of my exhaust. So i left the car on for little while and the car was running normal. Took it for a drive it seemed fine. The ECM ligth is still on can't seem to reset ECM. It dark out i'm going to try it again tomorrow.

got rice?

iTrader: (2)

CAS - camshaft position sensor (sometimes referred to the crankshaft position sensor.. same thing, though).

Maximized Jiggs

iTrader: (1)

did you find out what the problem was? Mine doesnt seem to restart after the engine is warm. When it is started with the pedal to the metal, it blows huge amounts of thick smoke. Is this a coil pack issue or fuel injector?

Maximized Jiggs

iTrader: (1)

forgot to mention, I had that 0701 code once and it hasnt come back. It shakes a lot when restarted and almost shuts off, a couple of times it did this while I was waiting at a traffic light. Damn the smoke and the shuddering !

davemax

I replaced the cas and never had the problem again.....

Maximized Jiggs

iTrader: (1)

How much was it for the part and labor? How did you test it also?

For my problem it might be that CAS, fuel injectors or coil packs. But I seem to get fuel as indicated by the exhaust smoke.

mbb6

i have the rough idle and the stumbling while driving, does replacing the CAS solve this problem?? i have tested the ignition coils and replaced the spark plugs.

C MAX

iTrader: (4)

i had the same exact problem and codes turned out to be my cam sensor. car would turn over when it colled down for a while then would just crank and crank.

Cotangent

Daniel, Hi , I am Mike from a number of years ago and I am sure you don't remember me. I had a problem with a brand new (at that time) 97 maxima that had idle air control valve problems with no obd codes. you hit the problem right on and all I had to do is take the car to the dealer three times before he istened to me (er You) before he replaced the IACV. I have an interesting problem now:

Crank forever when cold with no codes. Runs very well once started. The problem first manifested with a complete inability to crank - no solenoid operation. Sounded like the relays were making up but no solenoid coil pickup. I put my hand down under the solenoid to feel for a loose connection and returned to the driver's seat and it started fine. Got home, removed the starter, checked it out, reinstalled the starter and then the continuous crank began. Eventually can start the engine with the acc. pedal depressed to the floor. No smelll of excess gas though - it doesn't seeem flooded. This is what i have checked so far:

Crankshaft position sensor (POS) rear flywheel - found it to be defective - replaced with a new one tested in the harness and it worked properly - and it had no effect but to give me two codes - air temp and knock - both of which could not prevent a start - may have done this during the replacement

Camshaft Position Sensor - checked wiring and ECU terminals for continuity - all sat - resistance in specs

Crankshaft position sensor - (REF) cheched wiring harness to ECM and resistance of unit - all Sat

IACV removed, cleaned, tested IACV - it moved in and out with the ignition switch as predicted - you can see the stepdown of the valve when the engine starts - fron 1200 to 100, to 800 as the engine warms.

So, as you can suspect, I am stumped - I think the problem is a malfunction in the simultaneous fuel injection mode and I can't figure out what triggers this response. However, one perplexing situation does exist - I need to figure out why, when I reached in and grabbed the wiring in the starter area did the engine then crank? Is there a wire broken somewhere?

By the way, I broke down and brought the car to the dealer today - after reading the codes (the two i mentioned before) they told me there is an electrical problem and $2500.00 plus a new wiring harness would solve the problem - hat ever happened to troubleshooting!

Thanks for any help you can offer.

Mike

smaye

I have the same problem on my 1999 Maxima- Periodically will not start. Turns over like a champ. Just no sign of kicking off. If I do get it running it will restart no problem.

I checked for codes and found 0101, Camshaft Position Sensor. Before I go out and buy one, is there a way to check to be sure it is bad?

I pulled the sensor out and check the resisitance across the 2 terminals. It measured 1.76 k ohms. Have no idea if this is within spec. Is there a different way to check?

Is this a common part to go bad?

TIA for any help!

JwaxMax99

iTrader: (14)

1.44 k ohms to 1.76 k ohms for Mitsubishi sensor. 2.09 k ohms to 2.55 k ohms for Hitachi sensor. If this is OK, check the input signal, then check the ground circuit.

smaye

I did not think I saw any writing at all on the sensor when I had it out. Where should I be looking to find the brand?


I am fairly mechanical, but a novice electrician. How should I go about checking these 2 things?

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

It will have a VERY small mitsubishi symbol on it

97maximaman

I had this exact same problem back in october, it was the biggest hit i've ever taken, $750 parts and labor, but then the idiot tells me the O2 sensor is shot so it cost me another $120. I've been through hard times with this car but that one left a mark, i'm still trying to make that money back(note i'm only 17).

ethnic6

iTrader: (5)

my car has no starting problem, but I got a 0303 and 0701 code, it does idle when its around 1 rpm when I warm up my car, and when I accelerate softly to about 30mph at around 2000 rpm, the car will sort of buckle as if the engine is having problems producing HP and after like a second or so its fine, and the buckling doesn't occur either when I floor it from any rpms... wondering if someone can shed some light in this issue for me

EdwardDong

I have the exact same problem with my 1997 maxima, and the symptoms are also exact same. I pulled out the sensor, and it seems good. I know it is actually a hall transducer, which I think is not easy to go bad. I will check the its ohm value to see if the resistance is within spec.

I am eager to know if you have solved the problem by replacing the Camshaft Position Sensor.

I will appreciate anybody's feedback on this.