mpc578

Just a quick question...When do you arm/shoot your n20? I know people say if you shoot off the line you will smoke tires. I am getting mine done saturday (100 shot), and I was curious what people have tried/done and their best results.

soundmike

iTrader: (24)

First of all i don't have one. But here's my 2c anyway. Have it spray around 3-3.5k. That will help lessen the chance of you getting wheelspin galore.

SR20DEN

iTrader: (7)

So you're getting a Nitrous kit installed on a 2002. What type of kit is it? You REALLY need to know this. Do NOT let them install a single fogger on the car. And if you're doing a 100 shot you'll either need a multiport fogger or do some serious fuel system upgrades to make the EFI Dry kit work. But under no circumstances should you spray Fuel into the upper intake manifold since it was designed for air flow only. Fuel can puddle up in the plenum and ignite which could damage your intake.

As for what RPM, that all depends on your traction conditions. First gear won't hold it very well without blowing off the tires. But that still depends on traction and the real amount of Nitrous you'll be running. And if it's a true 100 shot at the wheels I would recommend 3000 to 3500 RPM. That won't be a problem becasue you'll almost always be on the far side of the rev range when you use the Nitrous anyways.

Don't forget to find out what kit is being installed on your car. Let me know and I'll tell you what to expect.

2kSeattleMax

If I were you, I would install a window switch (mallory makes a nice one), which will spray for you once armed. I would set it for 3000 to about 500 below redline).

That way you can ensure you don't spray too soon, or hit the fuel cut-off while spraying.

Don't install a nitrous kit without a window switch and a WOT switch IMHO.

SR20DEN

iTrader: (7)

Yeah, the window switch would be very nice to have. Especially for running at the track. But spraying below 3000 isn't that big a deal for only a 100 shot. And 500 RPM before redline is way too soon. 50 to 100 RPM before redline is more appropriate. And anyone who installs a kit without the proper WOT and Arm switches is asking for trouble and has done the job incorrectly.

2kSeattleMax

SR20DEN,
I would defer to your assessment having read your posts. You=experienced, me = n00b.


Too bad you don't live in the Seattle area. I'd love to take a spin in your NOS Monster with the numbers you are putting down.

You are like at 125 shot right?

I started looking into NOS vs. SC. Can't beat NOS for the dollar. Would probobly be more appropriate to my driving style anyway.

SR20DEN

iTrader: (7)

Just so you know, I was backing you up in most cases, tweaking your statements on the other cases. You're right about the window switch. Id love to have one and it is on my list of things to do. It would help me out SOOOO much at the track.

I just hope this topic poster reads this thread before he takes his car to get juice put on. Those single fogger wet kits are for the birds. I know some of the org member are using them without problems but I wouldn't recommend them to anyone. I have heard too many horror stories about people blowing up their intake manifolds with them. At least one of them even after I warned him not to do it.

02MaximizedVQ

I was at a local track a few months ago and a guy with a 1995 Integra with a body kit, full bolt-ons and a 75 shot single-fogger was staging and all of a sudden BOOOOOOM. It sounded just like a shotgun. He popped his hood and his intake pipe had been blown off the throttle body. Luckly the only damage was to some sensors on his intake manifold. But it was indeed a scary moment.

Jesse

Stikya

iTrader: (1)

I've got the Zex, and it sprays at WOT. I find my tires roll like crazy under 20 miles/hour, so I slightly brake torque off the line, push to 3/4 gas when I let off the brake, until I hit 20-25MPH. Then I floor it and the juice kicks in and I spray until I brake.

If I do this effectively, I shoot off the line at a moderate speed w/ no wheel spin, and start spraying around 25 with no wheel spin or hop.

It may not be the best way, but I've beat some cars lately that I don't think I should have, so it must be working somewhat.

mpc578

Well I have been doing some research on the Kit that I got..it seems it is going to be a dry setup with a 75 shot. I talked to the guy, and after talking to his installer they felt this is the best/safest way to go, and I am all for safety. It is NOS part 05124, on pg 30 of the new catalog online. Thanks for the info guys.

soundmike

iTrader: (24)

hmm... sr20den might want to confirm this. but wasn't there an issue wherein conventional Nitrous set-ups won't work on the VQ35? (I guess that's what you meant earlier by more work)

SR20DEN

iTrader: (7)

5124, 5123 or 5115 (i just used 5115) are all virtually the same kits but with different jetting. They are EFI dry and very safe (relativley) to use. However, they won't be able to install the kit unless they put in a booster pump and external regulator. The VQ35 does not have a fuel return line or fuel regulator on the fuel rail. The NOS EFI dry kits rely on the regulator to be there in order to boost the fuel pressure. The factory regulator is located in the fuel tank with the fuel pump and maintains a constant 3.5 bar (52 psi). It does not have a vacuum line attached to it either.

If your installers are unaware of this they are going to be in for a big suprise. Ask them if they've ever installed Nitrous on a newer Mustang SVT Cobra; they have the same type of fuel system.

Aside from all the negatives, good luck on your project. If you get it pulled off you'll be the second known person to install nitrous on a VQ35.

mpc578

I am also putting a walboro fuel pump in if this matters...

SR20DEN

iTrader: (7)

Sorry, it wont matter. The booster pump will need to be put in after the oem regulator. Buying a walbro might be a waste of money if you use it to replace the oem pump.

mpc578

So SR your saying I should have them put in the Walboro as a second fuel pump?

SR20DEN

iTrader: (7)

Talk it over with the installer. I wouldn't use a Walboro as a booster pump. You would use a Vortech T-Rex, NOS or Aeromotive inline pump for that.

mpc578

Thanks for the help SR, I am getting it done tomorrow and I will let you know how I make out.

Blu

iTrader: (63)

try to get before and after dynos so we can see how much you lost from the flywheel to the wheels

mpc578

Since it is being done tomorrow morning, I won't be able to get before and after dynos, however when I do get the dyno done, I will do with and without the nitrous so I can have a comparison.

mpc578

well I picked it up from the shop, but unfortunatley it isn't complete. They had to do some modification work with the switches, and it took him longer than usual because he had never done a 2k2 Max. He didn't have time to put in the Air/Fuel Gauge, so I have to take it back . He asked me to find out the easiest way to install this in a 2k2..can anyone help me with this question?

soundmike

iTrader: (24)

sr20den is the first and only 2k2 owner that i know of who've successfully tackled this subject. he should be able to help you out.

SR20DEN

iTrader: (7)

What modifications did he have to do witht he switches? All he needed to do was put the WOT switch at the gas pedal. And the arm switch could go in one of several knockouts in the cotpit. I put my arm switch to the left of the steering wheel.
The Stoich guage is pretty easy to hook up. I have mine placed in a modified guage pod that I attatched to the left pillar. Keep in mind that custom full pillars with 2 and 3 pods will be available soon through CustomMaxima.com from LoTek. The wiring was simple as well. I just ran some thin signal wire from the guage to the right side O2 sensor in front of the precat. I just probed the wire into the factory plug and did no cutting or splicing at all.
I tapped power from the power plug (aka cig lighter socket). I just poped out the center cover around the shifter and tapped into it. Again I did no cutting or splicing of the factory wires. The power plug uses statndard flat type connectors so I just made some short wires with male and female plugs on both ends and tapped into those wires with 3m wire taps. I just wanted to do as much as possible without cutting any factory wires so I can put the car back to it's original condition very easily.

So what did the guy say about the fuel system or has he even addressed that issue? And if he is going to remove the fuel pump cartridge from the tank you could do the guy a huge favor and buy a new gasket from Nissan before he tries. Nissan uses some odd gasket that expands beyond it's normal size once it's been used or splashed with gas. It's a severe pain to put back in once it's been removed. It's easier to just replace it with a new one that will drop right in. It hink they're only like $8 or so.

mpc578

He did put the WOT switch at the gas pedal, and he put the arm switch in the knockout behind the shifter. I think he just wanted to take his time because he had never done work on a 2k2 Maxima before, so he was being ultra careful, which is fine with me. As far as the fuel problem he addressed it and I am getting that aeromotive a1000 to solve that problem. Other than that everything looks good, purge kit works, etc. I am gonna have it finished this week, so I will keep you posted.

BTW thanks for the awesome writeup on the gauge install..I am just gonna copy it and hand it to him..I am sure he will know what to do!

SR20DEN

iTrader: (7)

You could also get the Vortech T-Rex as a less expensive alternative. The Aeromotive and the pump I have are HUGE. As big around as a 1 liter Pepsi bottle. You will also need a regulator in the mix. I used the Aeromotive one which cost about $100.

Here are some of my writeups.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....hreadid=123025

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....hreadid=126712

The fuel system schematic is on the 3rd page of the last link.

mpc578

I already had bought the aeromotive before I read that, oh well, you also say you need a regulator?

mpc578

Sr I know I have asked a lot of questions, but I want to do this right. I got the aeromotive A1000 pump (I assume that is the high power pump in your diagram). I see you also have a fuel regulator in the diagram on your post, any suggestions on a brand/model? With these 2 items, is this all I need to make this setup work. I just don't want to go back to the shop and not have it be completed, because it is frustrating. and if we are ever at the same meet (you kinda live far though) you definitely have a six pack coming from me!

SR20DEN

iTrader: (7)

I had to update a link on that thread. I used an Aeromotive fuel regulator and anodized russell fittings throuought.

Here is one of the pictures of my setup altough you can't see the regulator.
The power I was telling you I got from the power plug was only for the guages and activation. The fuel pump and nitorus solenoids get power from the fuse block in that picture. The fuel pump is only turned on with the nitrous system because it is kinda loud and doesn't need to be running all the time.