K-Sport Coilovers Talk
09-01-2005, 06:36 PM
#321
Guest
Posts: n/a
I'm so happy my KSports arrived today. I got started with the rear struts. It was pretty straight forward getting the rear struts off. Once I did that, I put the KSports on. I kind of eyeballed it to make it as close to the stock ride height as possible. I will need to keep the rear up while I still have my factory shocks on in front. I didn't run into any problems during the rear installation. I do have a few questions.
1. What is put between the KSport top and the trunk? I couldn't use the stock gasket because it didn't fit and was worn. Or do I need some other part? I know the 5th Gens need one.
2. How much should I tighten the spring preload? I went for a drive and the back seemed a little bouncy. But a different kind of bouncy than the stock struts. All I did was hand tighten them.
I don't hear any noise from the back so far. I hope I do not get any either...
I'll have more questions later on.
Thanks, Aaron
1. What is put between the KSport top and the trunk? I couldn't use the stock gasket because it didn't fit and was worn. Or do I need some other part? I know the 5th Gens need one.
2. How much should I tighten the spring preload? I went for a drive and the back seemed a little bouncy. But a different kind of bouncy than the stock struts. All I did was hand tighten them.
I don't hear any noise from the back so far. I hope I do not get any either...
I'll have more questions later on.
Thanks, Aaron
09-02-2005, 07:06 AM
#322
Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 154
Aaron,
1. I'm not sure if the 4th gen design is the same as the 5th gen design, but on my 5th gen there was a "bushing plate" consisting of a couple metal sleeves and a rubber isolator. Basically, just remove from one and place on the other.
2. I would take all the slack in the spring collars so there is no movement in the spring at all. Use valving the tool to dial in the level of dampening you desire. It sounds like you did things correctly, you probably just need to try playing with valve settings.
Remember to keep all your collars tight!! Especially on the front.
1. I'm not sure if the 4th gen design is the same as the 5th gen design, but on my 5th gen there was a "bushing plate" consisting of a couple metal sleeves and a rubber isolator. Basically, just remove from one and place on the other.
2. I would take all the slack in the spring collars so there is no movement in the spring at all. Use valving the tool to dial in the level of dampening you desire. It sounds like you did things correctly, you probably just need to try playing with valve settings.
Remember to keep all your collars tight!! Especially on the front.
09-02-2005, 08:29 AM
#323
Good call, Tommy Boy. I didn't have any such bushing plate though (dunno if that's a 4th gen thing or just my car), so I didn't use anything between the coilovers and the mounts... just kinda stuck 'em up in there, tightened the nuts to spec, and that was it.
As far as the preload goes.... again... tighten it JUST ENOUGH to have no spring movement when the car is jacked up, and that's it. And yes... tighten your collars like hell. Clean them first to make sure no crap gets between them, and use a hammer on the wrenches to tighten (just don't totally wail on them).
Best dampening setting seems to be either 0-0.5 turns from full soft, or just all the way hard.
As far as the preload goes.... again... tighten it JUST ENOUGH to have no spring movement when the car is jacked up, and that's it. And yes... tighten your collars like hell. Clean them first to make sure no crap gets between them, and use a hammer on the wrenches to tighten (just don't totally wail on them).
Best dampening setting seems to be either 0-0.5 turns from full soft, or just all the way hard.
09-02-2005, 05:02 PM
#326
yeah, that hammering thing helped my noise problem a ton! now its a rare occasion, instead of every turn i took, lol
there was nothing in the rears that i used from the stock, just stuck em in, also since you first got them, i would keep them at full soft for a little bit to break em in, than fiddle with the dampening later. its gonna be bouncy though even when it is broken in,
also, you want ZERO preload, so just enough so that the springs dont move just like doodfood and tommyboy said.
there was nothing in the rears that i used from the stock, just stuck em in, also since you first got them, i would keep them at full soft for a little bit to break em in, than fiddle with the dampening later. its gonna be bouncy though even when it is broken in,
also, you want ZERO preload, so just enough so that the springs dont move just like doodfood and tommyboy said.
09-04-2005, 08:13 AM
#329
Ok, it's been a couple of weeks since my install and I have a couple of questions for you guys.
1) I am getting a bad clunk in my rear passenger side (like even if I run over a road reflector slowly, "clu-clunk") I looked and found nothing out of the ordinary or different from the driver side?
2) Back still is very stiff & bouncy, there's no pre-load on the springs and I think they settled bacause my back is really much lower than I need/want it. Now I know that shortening the strut shouldn't affect travel but could it if you went way too low? Just trying to figure out what's going on...
I'm close to putting my Eibachs and stock shocks back in the rear. The height was perfect and the ride was great!!
Thanks in advance, I know the good feedback will be coming!!!
1) I am getting a bad clunk in my rear passenger side (like even if I run over a road reflector slowly, "clu-clunk") I looked and found nothing out of the ordinary or different from the driver side?
2) Back still is very stiff & bouncy, there's no pre-load on the springs and I think they settled bacause my back is really much lower than I need/want it. Now I know that shortening the strut shouldn't affect travel but could it if you went way too low? Just trying to figure out what's going on...
I'm close to putting my Eibachs and stock shocks back in the rear. The height was perfect and the ride was great!!
Thanks in advance, I know the good feedback will be coming!!!
09-04-2005, 08:36 AM
#330
Keep in mind that your car is MUCH lighter in the rear, so it might be hard to keep it from being too bumpy back there.
No matter how much you shorten your coilovers, you won't affect travel. The only way to affect travel is by lowering your ride height by lowering your springs instead of the shock bodies.
The clunk might be caused by the collars not being tightened enough. Here's the link to a post that could help:
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...&postcount=138
No matter how much you shorten your coilovers, you won't affect travel. The only way to affect travel is by lowering your ride height by lowering your springs instead of the shock bodies.
The clunk might be caused by the collars not being tightened enough. Here's the link to a post that could help:
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...&postcount=138
09-04-2005, 08:43 AM
#331
My rear is also very stiff and bouncy and I've had them on for a month or two.
Just to clarify, when the car is jacked up, that's when there is no preload, correct? As in, when the strut is fully decompressed, the spring is juust tight enough to be held there. Or should I loosen the lower spring mount more so that it's even less compressed than now when sitting on the ground?
Just to clarify, when the car is jacked up, that's when there is no preload, correct? As in, when the strut is fully decompressed, the spring is juust tight enough to be held there. Or should I loosen the lower spring mount more so that it's even less compressed than now when sitting on the ground?
09-04-2005, 09:52 AM
#332
Originally Posted by djfrestyl
Just to clarify, when the car is jacked up, that's when there is no preload, correct?
09-10-2005, 09:06 PM
#334
UPDATE: Did some tinkering with the camber plates!
I decided to see what would happen if I dialed in as much negative camber as possible. As suggested by max929 here, I unscrewed the innermost Allen screws, screwed them into the middle holes instead, and then pushed the camber plates ALL the way toward the inside. I will get pics as soon as I can get my hands on a digicam.
Of course, that gave me a ton of toe-in, so I had to play with adjusting the steering linkages to compensate. It took a while (and a couple of days of carrying a hydraulic jack and a monkey wrench in my car in case I had to make roadside adjustments) to get things straight again without taking it to an alignment shop and paying $75, but I got it eventually.
Needless to say, I have a LOT more front grip now, and the car is much more neutral, all the way to the limit. Turn-in is MUCH sharper, understeer is about as close to gone as it's gonna get without playing with sway bars, and the car feels much more alive. I can now take corners significantly faster and still have the throttle pull me out instead of pushing me wide, which is another BIG improvement. Surprisingly, it's also made a HUGE difference in steering feel -- as in, there now is some (the damn thing had NONE before). It loads up pretty nicely as cornering forces build, and it lightens appropriately when things start to slip. Handling-wise, it's a significantly bigger improvement than going from those damn Bridgestone G009 all-seasons to my Hankook K104 summer tires with lighter rims.
And, of course, there are some disadvantages. Adding negative camber makes the car wander more when driving on sideways-tilted roads, and since almost all roads are tilted sideways at least somewhat, I find myself driving with the steering wheel almost constantly cocked slightly to one side. Can't be too good for tire wear. I also lost a little bit of caster, which all but killed any on-center feel I might have had (although it helped a little with torque steer). The biggest change was a drastic increase in kingpin inclination angle, which causes much bigger camber changes as I turn the steering wheel -- and that changing camber makes the handling a little less predictable. Welcome to the wonderful world of MacPherson strut front suspension.....
Basically, I traded a little bit of directional stability and handling predictability for more neutrality, steering feel, and GRIP (at least in front, which is where it's needed most). In other words, I can corner much more confidently and have more fun, but I have to pay more attention and make more fine adjustments all the time, especially if I want to corner hard and keep it clean; the previous setup (almost no negative camber) was less grippy and more understeery, but it was a little more intuitive and consistent.
I'm keeping this setup. It's kinda wandery and it'll eat my tires, but it's definitely teaching me a thing or two about handling.
I decided to see what would happen if I dialed in as much negative camber as possible. As suggested by max929 here, I unscrewed the innermost Allen screws, screwed them into the middle holes instead, and then pushed the camber plates ALL the way toward the inside. I will get pics as soon as I can get my hands on a digicam.
Of course, that gave me a ton of toe-in, so I had to play with adjusting the steering linkages to compensate. It took a while (and a couple of days of carrying a hydraulic jack and a monkey wrench in my car in case I had to make roadside adjustments) to get things straight again without taking it to an alignment shop and paying $75, but I got it eventually.
Needless to say, I have a LOT more front grip now, and the car is much more neutral, all the way to the limit. Turn-in is MUCH sharper, understeer is about as close to gone as it's gonna get without playing with sway bars, and the car feels much more alive. I can now take corners significantly faster and still have the throttle pull me out instead of pushing me wide, which is another BIG improvement. Surprisingly, it's also made a HUGE difference in steering feel -- as in, there now is some (the damn thing had NONE before). It loads up pretty nicely as cornering forces build, and it lightens appropriately when things start to slip. Handling-wise, it's a significantly bigger improvement than going from those damn Bridgestone G009 all-seasons to my Hankook K104 summer tires with lighter rims.
And, of course, there are some disadvantages. Adding negative camber makes the car wander more when driving on sideways-tilted roads, and since almost all roads are tilted sideways at least somewhat, I find myself driving with the steering wheel almost constantly cocked slightly to one side. Can't be too good for tire wear. I also lost a little bit of caster, which all but killed any on-center feel I might have had (although it helped a little with torque steer). The biggest change was a drastic increase in kingpin inclination angle, which causes much bigger camber changes as I turn the steering wheel -- and that changing camber makes the handling a little less predictable. Welcome to the wonderful world of MacPherson strut front suspension.....
Basically, I traded a little bit of directional stability and handling predictability for more neutrality, steering feel, and GRIP (at least in front, which is where it's needed most). In other words, I can corner much more confidently and have more fun, but I have to pay more attention and make more fine adjustments all the time, especially if I want to corner hard and keep it clean; the previous setup (almost no negative camber) was less grippy and more understeery, but it was a little more intuitive and consistent.
I'm keeping this setup. It's kinda wandery and it'll eat my tires, but it's definitely teaching me a thing or two about handling.
09-11-2005, 02:39 PM
#335
Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 50
It seems like a lot of people are saying "No preload" for this coilover set. If that is the case then what is the point of having an adjustable coilover set?. Wouldnt it make more sence to put a lower rated spring that would allow people to adjust preload/ride height at their will? I plan on doing something to my suspension next year, but if this set is basically "not" adjustable, I would be better of to get a properly matched spring/strut combo. I have no hands on experience with coil overs or lowering springs but from what I have read here it doesnt sound like this set up is a proper match for a Maxima.
09-11-2005, 05:16 PM
#336
Originally Posted by Chris.s
It seems like a lot of people are saying "No preload" for this coilover set. If that is the case then what is the point of having an adjustable coilover set?. Wouldnt it make more sence to put a lower rated spring that would allow people to adjust preload/ride height at their will? I plan on doing something to my suspension next year, but if this set is basically "not" adjustable, I would be better of to get a properly matched spring/strut combo. I have no hands on experience with coil overs or lowering springs but from what I have read here it doesnt sound like this set up is a proper match for a Maxima.
09-11-2005, 09:41 PM
#337
Originally Posted by Chris.s
It seems like a lot of people are saying "No preload" for this coilover set. If that is the case then what is the point of having an adjustable coilover set?. Wouldnt it make more sence to put a lower rated spring that would allow people to adjust preload/ride height at their will? I plan on doing something to my suspension next year, but if this set is basically "not" adjustable, I would be better of to get a properly matched spring/strut combo. I have no hands on experience with coil overs or lowering springs but from what I have read here it doesnt sound like this set up is a proper match for a Maxima.
As for how well matched the Ksports are to a Maxima.... considering how little they cost (they are CHEAP for a good coilover set with lots of adjustability), they give a truly amazing combination of handling and ride comfort -- the handling is MUCH better than you'll get with ANY lowering spring, and the ride is just as comfy as with many other spring/shock combos, even though those are MUCH softer. This is definitely as good as it gets for anywhere near this price, except for the D2s (which are about the same).
Besides, lower spring rates are available from Ksport if that's what you really want. From what I understand, you could go up or down by up to 2 kg/mm without Ksport having to re-valve the shocks (and thus charging you extra for it).
09-12-2005, 09:04 AM
#338
Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 50
Thanks for the responce. So basically your saying that you could go with a lower spring rate and use some preload to get effectivly the exact same responce/hight of the default spring set. I am somewhat concerned that I will not be able to go back to factory height for winter but I guess a small drop wont be too bad.
09-12-2005, 01:21 PM
#339
Spring choice won't affect height range, so you're good there.
As for "response"... I can't say whether a preloaded soft spring will behave exactly the same as a hard non-preloaded spring. But either way, there's also the small point that once you set your shock body lengths and install the coilovers, adjusting the spring preload will still tweak the ride height, so if you decide you want a lot more than you have, you'll have to unbolt the coilovers, re-adjust the height, and reinstall them.
As for "response"... I can't say whether a preloaded soft spring will behave exactly the same as a hard non-preloaded spring. But either way, there's also the small point that once you set your shock body lengths and install the coilovers, adjusting the spring preload will still tweak the ride height, so if you decide you want a lot more than you have, you'll have to unbolt the coilovers, re-adjust the height, and reinstall them.
09-12-2005, 02:44 PM
#340
Ksports
Okay, so has anybody tried going with the lower spring rate springs yet? I know they were offered for like $100-$150 bucks, but anybody tried them yet??? The reason why I ask is because my GF may be inheriting my Max, and I'm afraid the ride may be too stiff for her on a daily basis. I'm kinda interested, but not sure if I want to be the guinea pig. Looking for feedback.
me too
09-12-2005, 03:03 PM
#342
You're not talking about different shock valving or anything... just softer springs. Springs are the simplest part of the coilovers, so changing them is not gonna make your car totally suck. The worst that can happen is more body roll, less handling, and slower reflexes (i.e. your car will take slightly longer than it should to find a set in corners, which you'd have to be pretty picky to notice anyway).
Don't forget... Ksport picked those spring rates for as much handling as possible without being brutally harsh-riding. Their shock design and valving is good enough that they could get away with particularly high rates. But there's nothing magic about the default numbers. They're just what Ksport thinks is the best for handling with a decent amount of comfort. If you think you could deal with significantly less handling in exchange for a significantly smoother ride, there's no reason not to try it.
As long as you keep with the formula of significantly softer rear springs (preferably about 2/3 as stiff as the front), your handling balance (oversteer vs. understeer) won't really suffer either.
Don't forget... Ksport picked those spring rates for as much handling as possible without being brutally harsh-riding. Their shock design and valving is good enough that they could get away with particularly high rates. But there's nothing magic about the default numbers. They're just what Ksport thinks is the best for handling with a decent amount of comfort. If you think you could deal with significantly less handling in exchange for a significantly smoother ride, there's no reason not to try it.
As long as you keep with the formula of significantly softer rear springs (preferably about 2/3 as stiff as the front), your handling balance (oversteer vs. understeer) won't really suffer either.
09-12-2005, 03:23 PM
#343
Ksports
Yeah, I feel yah. I'm okay with the ride, but I'm just thinking that if she rides in it every day, she may want to get rid of the Ksports all together. It's crazy, 'cuz she has Tein SS coilovers in her DA, and it rides a hell of a lot smoother and softer than the Ksports in my Max. It also has a spring rate of 9kg in the front, but with 5kg rears. Being that Ksport matches the spring rate to the valving on their shocks, does that mean that the Tein's are just valved better........since the ride is smoother??? Just curious. Still debating on changing out the springs. Anybody else done it yet?
09-12-2005, 05:32 PM
#345
Originally Posted by d00df00d
What's a DA?.... 
09-12-2005, 06:03 PM
#346
Ahh, okay. Silly me... My bro has a '96 'Teg and he's pretty into the Honda scene (even though finding smart Honda people is like finding needles in a haystack), so I really should start learning that stuff.
Well, just cuz the Teins on your girl's 'Teg ride better than the Ksports on your Max, that doesn't mean slapping the same Teins on your Max will be an improvement. There are some complicating factors... That 'Teg probably has a stiffer chassis, and I don't know what kinda rims and tires you and she are running but I'm willing to bet she's got a hell of a lot less unsprung weight, even in proportion to her car's weight. Then there's the question of suspension geometries and such. The Teins on her car also might be using some of the stock rubber suspension bits as well.
And even disregarding that stuff, you gotta figure that Tein probably put a lot more effort into optimizing coilovers for that 'Teg than Ksport did for the Max. And more often than not, you do get what you pay for.... As you pointed out (noise issues), Tein coilovers are much more of a plug-and-play product than the Ksports.
The ride quality thing isn't so cut-and-dry though... word on the street is that for the 5th gen Max, the Ksports ride at least as well overall as the Tein SS, which has lower spring rates. That would mean that for the Max, the Ksports are actually valved better than the Teins.
If you're really concerned, I'd say just order up a new set of softer springs, and think about some chassis stiffening (subframe connectors) and super-lightweight shoes.
Well, just cuz the Teins on your girl's 'Teg ride better than the Ksports on your Max, that doesn't mean slapping the same Teins on your Max will be an improvement. There are some complicating factors... That 'Teg probably has a stiffer chassis, and I don't know what kinda rims and tires you and she are running but I'm willing to bet she's got a hell of a lot less unsprung weight, even in proportion to her car's weight. Then there's the question of suspension geometries and such. The Teins on her car also might be using some of the stock rubber suspension bits as well.
And even disregarding that stuff, you gotta figure that Tein probably put a lot more effort into optimizing coilovers for that 'Teg than Ksport did for the Max. And more often than not, you do get what you pay for.... As you pointed out (noise issues), Tein coilovers are much more of a plug-and-play product than the Ksports.
The ride quality thing isn't so cut-and-dry though... word on the street is that for the 5th gen Max, the Ksports ride at least as well overall as the Tein SS, which has lower spring rates. That would mean that for the Max, the Ksports are actually valved better than the Teins.
If you're really concerned, I'd say just order up a new set of softer springs, and think about some chassis stiffening (subframe connectors) and super-lightweight shoes.
09-12-2005, 07:06 PM
#347
Yep, I feel ya. I'll probably just break her in slowly and let her drive the car every couple days, so it's not like culture shock. We're thinking about selling her 'Teg and getting a WRX wagon or an STI 
. I actually want to get an Evo, but she doesn't like the shape. Gotta' keep the Max though!
. I actually want to get an Evo, but she doesn't like the shape. Gotta' keep the Max though!
09-16-2005, 07:27 AM
#349
UPDATE:
If you don't yet have a FSTB with these coilovers, get one NOW.
The Maxima chassis isn't the stiffest to begin with, especially the 4th gen. Adding these coilovers not only increases flex (because of the stiffness), but also makes the effects worse (because of the drop).
I just installed an Alutec FSTB from Paradox Systems. It's on sale for now. Again... if you don't have a FSTB, GET THIS ONE RIGHT AWAY. Here's the link:
http://www.paradox-systems.com/produ...products_id=28
It just looks the business from the get-go. It's big and wide, and mounted very sturdily (although some slightly tighter tolerances in the bolt holes wouldn't hurt -- but hey, you don't exactly pay hundreds for it). The design is very typical of JDM FSTBs, which seems to make a lot more sense than how most USDM FSTBs are designed... they just look flimsier by comparison.
Just one morning commute has me convinced that this thing's performance lives up to its looks. It's a really really good product, especially for the money. It made my handling more predictable, almost totally killed bump-steer, and actually even made my ride a little smoother. There's a bump in the entrance to the parking lot at work that I deliberately went over at an angle this morning, just to really test things out... that bump always felt really harsh before, almost like it was bad for the car, and I always suspected that it was because my chassis was flexing. Now, with the FSTB the car just kinda climbed up and went on its merry way. Hard to argue with $85 shipped for all that.
I'm really, really kicking myself for not having bought one sooner.
If you don't yet have a FSTB with these coilovers, get one NOW.
The Maxima chassis isn't the stiffest to begin with, especially the 4th gen. Adding these coilovers not only increases flex (because of the stiffness), but also makes the effects worse (because of the drop).
I just installed an Alutec FSTB from Paradox Systems. It's on sale for now. Again... if you don't have a FSTB, GET THIS ONE RIGHT AWAY. Here's the link:
http://www.paradox-systems.com/produ...products_id=28
It just looks the business from the get-go. It's big and wide, and mounted very sturdily (although some slightly tighter tolerances in the bolt holes wouldn't hurt -- but hey, you don't exactly pay hundreds for it). The design is very typical of JDM FSTBs, which seems to make a lot more sense than how most USDM FSTBs are designed... they just look flimsier by comparison.
Just one morning commute has me convinced that this thing's performance lives up to its looks. It's a really really good product, especially for the money. It made my handling more predictable, almost totally killed bump-steer, and actually even made my ride a little smoother. There's a bump in the entrance to the parking lot at work that I deliberately went over at an angle this morning, just to really test things out... that bump always felt really harsh before, almost like it was bad for the car, and I always suspected that it was because my chassis was flexing. Now, with the FSTB the car just kinda climbed up and went on its merry way. Hard to argue with $85 shipped for all that.
I'm really, really kicking myself for not having bought one sooner.
10-11-2005, 06:20 AM
#350
For the experts I have a question about the ride height adjustment on the front of these COs. I need to raise the car for the harsh winter to come, and I noticed that with the bottom collar, the height adjustability is actually very very limited if you want to keep the bottom perch attached with a descent amount of thread. With this scenario (keeping bottom black perch) intact and used to tighten the bottom collar, the height of the car is FAR from stock and still very "dropped" with barely a 3 finger gap between the wheel and fender in the front.
What I want to know is how bad would it be to only tighten the bottom collar with the top perch. I think the bottom perch is for redundancy, and it really limits things with how high your car can go. What I'd like to do is have the car a height where all the threaded portion of the bottom collar is in contact with the threaded body of the strut without the bottom perch. To my understanding, there are other COs that don't have this bottom perch? No?
Please lend some advice doodfood, and others
What I want to know is how bad would it be to only tighten the bottom collar with the top perch. I think the bottom perch is for redundancy, and it really limits things with how high your car can go. What I'd like to do is have the car a height where all the threaded portion of the bottom collar is in contact with the threaded body of the strut without the bottom perch. To my understanding, there are other COs that don't have this bottom perch? No?
Please lend some advice doodfood, and others
10-11-2005, 07:20 AM
#351
There are indeed coilovers without that bottom collar. It just depends on how they're designed and what kind of adjustability they have.
What you're describing is actually how I ran for a while after I first installed my coilovers. It works, but the thing you have to be careful of is that sometimes the bottom mount has some play in it without the lower collar. This means lateral movement or twisting, which can cause clicks (or worse). If you run this way, you'll have to tighten the top collar A LOT (i.e. clean it with water and then some kind of solvent, and wail on it with a hammer) to compensate. That works too... but now you have to worry about the tremendous force applied when you steer, especially in parking lots and such, because all that force will now be managed by that one collar. It WILL come loose, and you WILL have to tighten it periodically. Besides that that can be a PITA, the aluminum that those mounts and collars are made of is not exactly the hardest stuff on Earth, so I'm sure it won't take very well to being wailed on with a hammer every few weeks.
Then again, it probably won't be as much of an issue in the winter, since it'll be slippery out and you won't be driving as hard...
Basically, what I did was to position the lower mount on the shock body so that the lower collar barely had one full rotation's worth of thread to grab. Then I just tightened it all down HARD, installed my coilovers, and used the spring perch to fine-tune my ride height, using these things to keep my springs in place at all times. That's definitely not the ideal way, but it permits me to adjust my height easily and quickly at any time, and without ever having to unmount the coilovers. From what I can tell, I think my maximum ride height gives at least a 4-finger fender gap.
What you're describing is actually how I ran for a while after I first installed my coilovers. It works, but the thing you have to be careful of is that sometimes the bottom mount has some play in it without the lower collar. This means lateral movement or twisting, which can cause clicks (or worse). If you run this way, you'll have to tighten the top collar A LOT (i.e. clean it with water and then some kind of solvent, and wail on it with a hammer) to compensate. That works too... but now you have to worry about the tremendous force applied when you steer, especially in parking lots and such, because all that force will now be managed by that one collar. It WILL come loose, and you WILL have to tighten it periodically. Besides that that can be a PITA, the aluminum that those mounts and collars are made of is not exactly the hardest stuff on Earth, so I'm sure it won't take very well to being wailed on with a hammer every few weeks.
Then again, it probably won't be as much of an issue in the winter, since it'll be slippery out and you won't be driving as hard...
Basically, what I did was to position the lower mount on the shock body so that the lower collar barely had one full rotation's worth of thread to grab. Then I just tightened it all down HARD, installed my coilovers, and used the spring perch to fine-tune my ride height, using these things to keep my springs in place at all times. That's definitely not the ideal way, but it permits me to adjust my height easily and quickly at any time, and without ever having to unmount the coilovers. From what I can tell, I think my maximum ride height gives at least a 4-finger fender gap.
10-11-2005, 08:33 AM
#352
Interesting, and thanks for the input. I will try raising the collar a little more to this point "position the lower mount on the shock body so that the lower collar barely had one full rotation's worth of thread to grab."
Right now, I figured for that lower perch to have useful support, I made sure atleast 1/2 the tread on it was screwed into the shock body, but I'll try lessening that range :?
I did notice that the perches aren't the most rigid of metals to say the least, so banging on them would definately not be a good idea.
Right now, I figured for that lower perch to have useful support, I made sure atleast 1/2 the tread on it was screwed into the shock body, but I'll try lessening that range :?
I did notice that the perches aren't the most rigid of metals to say the least, so banging on them would definately not be a good idea.
10-11-2005, 10:21 AM
#353
Good luck. You'll be able to tell us what maximum height is. 
You do have to use a hammer to get those collars fully tightened. Just don't use full force. They will withstand occasional tightening with a hammer, just not the kind of repeated manhandling you'd have to do to keep that upper collar properly secured.
You do have to use a hammer to get those collars fully tightened. Just don't use full force. They will withstand occasional tightening with a hammer, just not the kind of repeated manhandling you'd have to do to keep that upper collar properly secured.
10-14-2005, 10:08 AM
#355
Simple question, yes. Simple answer... no.
Tein has a more proven track record of reliability. Their coilovers for the 6th gen have a significantly higher rear spring rate and a slightly lower front spring rate than the Ksports, which will give less understeer but will also make the ride much harsher in the rear (since the rear is much lighter than the front). The Ksports would ride smoother overall -- even though they're stiffer in the front, the Maxima's huge weight in the front will mostly cancel that out. Plus, the Ksports give you much more adjustability -- height, dampening, and spring preload (the Teins only let you adjust height).
Tein has a more proven track record of reliability. Their coilovers for the 6th gen have a significantly higher rear spring rate and a slightly lower front spring rate than the Ksports, which will give less understeer but will also make the ride much harsher in the rear (since the rear is much lighter than the front). The Ksports would ride smoother overall -- even though they're stiffer in the front, the Maxima's huge weight in the front will mostly cancel that out. Plus, the Ksports give you much more adjustability -- height, dampening, and spring preload (the Teins only let you adjust height).
10-14-2005, 06:40 PM
#358
Originally Posted by d00df00d
Awesome. I'm sure we'll hear about it, whatever you do. Can't wait. 
in the meantime. I don't think I'm going to drop in an SR.........or am I? Just kidding, I don't got any $$$ for that. I am going to bodywork and repaint it though. Can you say.....new project?
10-21-2005, 04:28 PM
#359
Just got off the phone with Ksport,
I was interested in getting a softer spring rate since the ride is a little much for an EDD(Every day driver) I was told that from the set up I have 9/6, We can go to a 7/5 with out revalving. I will probably go with to 7 spring rate in front and leave the rears alone. Question though, has anyone ridden around on full soft????? Thought?????
I was interested in getting a softer spring rate since the ride is a little much for an EDD(Every day driver) I was told that from the set up I have 9/6, We can go to a 7/5 with out revalving. I will probably go with to 7 spring rate in front and leave the rears alone. Question though, has anyone ridden around on full soft????? Thought?????
10-21-2005, 05:05 PM
#360
About the spring rates... If you go to a softer spring in the front, definitely do the same in the rear to keep the right handling balance (oversteer vs. understeer). Besides, the rear is where a lot of the roughness comes from since it weighs about half as much as the front.
I have ridden on full soft, and it's much nicer than almost any other setting. In my experience, the only good settings are:
- One half-turn or less from full soft (my current setting)
- Full hard (better handling, a little rougher)
Anything in the middle was really jarring because of the bouncing.
I would definitely say to try it with a half-turn or less from full soft (play with it to see what you like best). If that doesn't do it for you, then definitely grab 7/5 springs (and come right back and tell us how they are)
I have ridden on full soft, and it's much nicer than almost any other setting. In my experience, the only good settings are:
- One half-turn or less from full soft (my current setting)
- Full hard (better handling, a little rougher)
Anything in the middle was really jarring because of the bouncing.
I would definitely say to try it with a half-turn or less from full soft (play with it to see what you like best). If that doesn't do it for you, then definitely grab 7/5 springs (and come right back and tell us how they are
)