Reverse lights—on/off whenever I want
05-29-2003, 08:42 AM
#1
Reverse lights—on/off whenever I want
For a while, I have wanted to "communicate" with people driving behind me. I looked into a small LED message board; too much cost and hassle. Recently, I came up with the idea that it would be neat to "bright" people from the rear. Personally, I don't like tapping the brakes cause I hate to slow down.
What I did was wire a button (put it in the dead slot next to the dimmer switch); one end went to the cigarette lighter power, the other went to the reverse lights. It is a momentary pushbutton. Result: I can now "bright" people behind me with the reverse lights, for fun or because they ticked me off. It's kinda funny: makes people think twice, wondering how you are in "reverse" at 60 MPH.
If you get bored and want to do this mod, it takes about an hour or so. I have a write-up, if you care to venture.
What I did was wire a button (put it in the dead slot next to the dimmer switch); one end went to the cigarette lighter power, the other went to the reverse lights. It is a momentary pushbutton. Result: I can now "bright" people behind me with the reverse lights, for fun or because they ticked me off. It's kinda funny: makes people think twice, wondering how you are in "reverse" at 60 MPH.
If you get bored and want to do this mod, it takes about an hour or so. I have a write-up, if you care to venture.
05-29-2003, 08:52 AM
#4
I love the message board idea too, but those things aren't cheap, and they run off AC power, requiring an inverter. Lots of hassle for now.
The reverse-light on/off mod could easily be done with any lights in the rear. Also, I am planning to get brighter bulbs for the rear.
I don't think this is illegal...maybe it is, but it is eccentric.
The reverse-light on/off mod could easily be done with any lights in the rear. Also, I am planning to get brighter bulbs for the rear.
I don't think this is illegal...maybe it is, but it is eccentric.
05-29-2003, 09:28 AM
#8
Before doing this, I tested all the wiring with a voltmeter to ensure that I was using the correct routes.
Basically, you can get any button/switch you want. I chose a momentary pushbutton (as stated)—don't want the kids pushing it, having it stay on, then having a dead battery—with two prongs for contacts.
I melted a hole in the dead switch with my soldering iron. Once the button was in place, I took speaker wire (22 Gauge) and split it into two separate wires. I soldered one to each prong, then put some solder on the other end of the wire. The wires were about 4 feet in length. I routed the wires down into the steering column and underneath the console. Having removed the shift-box cover (the plate that you take off to access the stereo screws, the one covering the Park Reverse Drive....selector (on my automatic) popped out the cigarette lighter harness. I cut the insulation on the hot wire (orange on mine) to bare about 1/8 inch of wire. Once I routed one end of the switch behind the steering column, I pulled it up and under the console and through the cigarette lighter hole. I wrapped the end of the wire around the bared orange wire and soldered it. After covering with electrical tape, I plugged the lighter back in and replaced everything.
The other wire I routed behind the kick panel, and underneath the kick plates on the door sills. If you pop up the kick plate, you will have access to underneath the carpet. Pull back the carpet so you can see the big wad of wires running to the back of the car. I looked at my reverse lights to determine which wire ran to them, then did the same thing to that wire, bared it, and soldered the other end of the switch to it. I did not want to run a separate wire all the way back to the trunk, so I just used the existing wire. It was green with a white stripe and grey dots. It branches in the trunk for the two separate lights, so by tapping into it right there (by the driver's side door, underneath the kick panel) I only had to solder one wire. One soldered, I taped it up, replaced all the paneling, and tested the button before popping it back into place.
Same procedure for quick access to any rear light, just find the wire in that big wad that is running to the back.
Basically, you can get any button/switch you want. I chose a momentary pushbutton (as stated)—don't want the kids pushing it, having it stay on, then having a dead battery—with two prongs for contacts.
I melted a hole in the dead switch with my soldering iron. Once the button was in place, I took speaker wire (22 Gauge) and split it into two separate wires. I soldered one to each prong, then put some solder on the other end of the wire. The wires were about 4 feet in length. I routed the wires down into the steering column and underneath the console. Having removed the shift-box cover (the plate that you take off to access the stereo screws, the one covering the Park Reverse Drive....selector (on my automatic) popped out the cigarette lighter harness. I cut the insulation on the hot wire (orange on mine) to bare about 1/8 inch of wire. Once I routed one end of the switch behind the steering column, I pulled it up and under the console and through the cigarette lighter hole. I wrapped the end of the wire around the bared orange wire and soldered it. After covering with electrical tape, I plugged the lighter back in and replaced everything.
The other wire I routed behind the kick panel, and underneath the kick plates on the door sills. If you pop up the kick plate, you will have access to underneath the carpet. Pull back the carpet so you can see the big wad of wires running to the back of the car. I looked at my reverse lights to determine which wire ran to them, then did the same thing to that wire, bared it, and soldered the other end of the switch to it. I did not want to run a separate wire all the way back to the trunk, so I just used the existing wire. It was green with a white stripe and grey dots. It branches in the trunk for the two separate lights, so by tapping into it right there (by the driver's side door, underneath the kick panel) I only had to solder one wire. One soldered, I taped it up, replaced all the paneling, and tested the button before popping it back into place.
Same procedure for quick access to any rear light, just find the wire in that big wad that is running to the back.
05-29-2003, 09:50 AM
#10
Why not just throw the switch on the existing reverse light wires under the dash?
Why run all that wire to the trunk?
Anyway - that's sweet! I may do it this weekend the "alternative" way I described above. If I do it, I'll give a writeup, of course.
IanS
Why run all that wire to the trunk?
Anyway - that's sweet! I may do it this weekend the "alternative" way I described above. If I do it, I'll give a writeup, of course.
IanS
05-29-2003, 10:09 AM
#11
If you want to go to the trouble of searching for the switch and all, fine. I did not run the wire to the trunk. Didn't you read the write-up? I ran it just to the other side of the kick panel, under the kick plates on the doors. I only used a few feet of wire. Besides, you will probably go to more trouble trying to move the switch, since you will have to disconnect it from its harness. Then, if you move the switch to the dash, you will have to feed extra wire so that the normal reverse lights will operate.
For me, this is not a "road rage" thing, it is simply a way to catch someone's attention. Besides, I think someone slamming on their brakes (because of tail-gating or whatever) or getting flipped off is more maddening than being flashed a pair of white lights.
For me, this is not a "road rage" thing, it is simply a way to catch someone's attention. Besides, I think someone slamming on their brakes (because of tail-gating or whatever) or getting flipped off is more maddening than being flashed a pair of white lights.
05-29-2003, 08:59 PM
#12
I hate it when people tailgate me.. it seems to happen all the time. Ill be in front of someone, they'll be tailgating me so I slow down to the speed limit and usually let them pass if they are gonna be ***** about it. A few times they passed me, slowed down in front of me (like 20mph) to **** me off, pull over into the shoulder, wait for me to pass then start riding my *** again.. thats when I go "SEEEEEEYAAAAAAAA" and lose them.
06-05-2003, 08:27 AM
#14
UPDATE!
I just wanted to post an update for those who have started this project or have considered it. The way I did it as described above works well. However, I was on the freeway the other day, cruising at around 65 when I used the lights to thank someone for letting me in their lane. The car's tachometer seemed to bounce a little. I used it again, just to see what was going on and sure enough, it was as if the auto transmission was acting funny when I used the switch. As near as I can tell, the electronic transmission is jiggled by the use of this switch in the higher speeds (I get nothing when using it around the 20-35 MPH range).
The solution is simple: install a diode that will allow power to flow only one way. The diode will be installed just before the power tap that I used. For example, I explained that you can tap into the green w/ white dots wire (this wire is the power wire for the reverse lights). If you cut that wire, install a diode—check with your local electronic parts store for diode ratings—then tap the wire AFTER the diode , you will not have power flowing back towards the other switch when you engage YOUR switch. I think the factory switch may tie in to the electronic shifting (or tachometer) somehow.
If you are confused, let me know (send a PM) and I will provide a picture write-up for the diode.
I just wanted to post an update for those who have started this project or have considered it. The way I did it as described above works well. However, I was on the freeway the other day, cruising at around 65 when I used the lights to thank someone for letting me in their lane. The car's tachometer seemed to bounce a little. I used it again, just to see what was going on and sure enough, it was as if the auto transmission was acting funny when I used the switch. As near as I can tell, the electronic transmission is jiggled by the use of this switch in the higher speeds (I get nothing when using it around the 20-35 MPH range).
The solution is simple: install a diode that will allow power to flow only one way. The diode will be installed just before the power tap that I used. For example, I explained that you can tap into the green w/ white dots wire (this wire is the power wire for the reverse lights). If you cut that wire, install a diode—check with your local electronic parts store for diode ratings—then tap the wire AFTER the diode , you will not have power flowing back towards the other switch when you engage YOUR switch. I think the factory switch may tie in to the electronic shifting (or tachometer) somehow.
If you are confused, let me know (send a PM) and I will provide a picture write-up for the diode.
06-06-2003, 06:58 PM
#15
To answer some questions...One last time.
One last update to mention that the diode works and prevents backflow that disrupts the tachometer.
The write-up is below.
(Inserted from a PM)
I have run volt-meter diagnostic tests and have confirmed the theory that I proposed: the diode does fix the RPM jumps!
I was thrilled when I finally had the bugs worked out of this mod, and I love it. You must use a diode rated at least 3 amps or higher (higher is not necessarily better, just more expensive). The diode has a band on it to indicate correct direction. The band should face the rear of the car. What I mean is that the band on a diode is on one end or the other of the diode. You want the banded end of the diode closest to the rear of the car. The diode has two leads coming off in either direction. I curled the lead into a loop, spliced and cut a small (.5") section of the green/white with grey dotted wire. I wrapped the wires through the diode loops that I made and then soldered the connection. If I were you, I would use a heat sink between the solder connection and the diode to prevent damaging the diode (just clamp some needle-nose pliers with a rubber band around the handles in between the connections). One the diode was soldered on both ends, I again tested current to make sure there
was no back flow coming from the switch that I installed. Everything
checked out great. I covered the entire diode and connections with
electrical tape, then wrapped it in wire protector, then more tape for a stock look (even though it is concealed). I would test it out to make sure it is good to go before wrapping it. I test-drove the car at 5, 15, 35, 55, 65, and 75 MPH using the switch. The result: absolutely no problems or tach revving. Terrific!
The write-up is below.
(Inserted from a PM)
I have run volt-meter diagnostic tests and have confirmed the theory that I proposed: the diode does fix the RPM jumps!
I was thrilled when I finally had the bugs worked out of this mod, and I love it. You must use a diode rated at least 3 amps or higher (higher is not necessarily better, just more expensive). The diode has a band on it to indicate correct direction. The band should face the rear of the car. What I mean is that the band on a diode is on one end or the other of the diode. You want the banded end of the diode closest to the rear of the car. The diode has two leads coming off in either direction. I curled the lead into a loop, spliced and cut a small (.5") section of the green/white with grey dotted wire. I wrapped the wires through the diode loops that I made and then soldered the connection. If I were you, I would use a heat sink between the solder connection and the diode to prevent damaging the diode (just clamp some needle-nose pliers with a rubber band around the handles in between the connections). One the diode was soldered on both ends, I again tested current to make sure there
was no back flow coming from the switch that I installed. Everything
checked out great. I covered the entire diode and connections with
electrical tape, then wrapped it in wire protector, then more tape for a stock look (even though it is concealed). I would test it out to make sure it is good to go before wrapping it. I test-drove the car at 5, 15, 35, 55, 65, and 75 MPH using the switch. The result: absolutely no problems or tach revving. Terrific!
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