BBaker025

iTrader: (1)

Today I tried to install new rotors, pads, brake lines. I got the caliper off, but couldnt get the "Caliper Mounting bracket" off. Its the metal piece that holds the brake pad in and and goes around the rotor. There are these 2 bolts that are impossible to get off. We tried Vise Grip and WD-40, rust remover, and sockets. Whats a good way to get impossible bolts off. Id just like something I could buy locally, like a autozone or homedeopt or something. Ive heard breaker bars are really good. Any ideas?

NickStam

iTrader: (3)

breaker bar, air tools, aerofoil (or something like that--search)

BBaker025

iTrader: (1)

I dont really have the money for like an air wrench and all that stuff. Im poor and cheap

karguy

Check tool rental places for an Electric Impact wrench (DeWalt makes a good one) to rent. That will bust those bolts loose.

Dave Holmes

Breaker bar. If you don't have one, try a 1/2" ratchet with proper socket (1/2" drives are longer than the 3/8's). If that doesn't work, put a piece of pipe over the end of the ratchet to increase leverage. Apply even force (don't "jerk" it too much or you could possibly strip something if socket/wrench pops loose). I always carry a piece of small pipe with my lug wrench for any type of emergency. You'll be surprised how easy a little leverage makes it.

Dave

demian

Exactly. You can use a pipe, or another wrench even to increase the leverage length on the ratchet. The only time I've had to use that bolt-loosening spray-can stuff is when the breaker bar didn't work.

sinewave

WD-40 isn't worth a damn for removing rusty bolts; Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster is what you need.

For those bolts, you should use a 1/2" drive 6-point socket (not 12-point). The 6-point will have much more contact area on the bolt. It may be the ONLY thing that works now that you have used a pair of vice grips on the bolt. A 1/2" breaker bar with a 2' cheater pipe will get them off with little effort; that is as long as you haven't rounded them off with the vice grips.

If they are rounded off and you do manage to get them off anyway, do yourself a favor and buy new bolts from the dealer. Don't forget to torque them to spec.

iwannabmw

iTrader: (3)

My thoughts exactly. If you do get these off, you'll prpbably have to replace them at this point. If I recall, the torque spec on these is very low, so it's easy to overtighten them and cause problems later on down the road.

bill99gxe

iTrader: (1)

A)
Product: Aero-Kroil
Made by: Kano Laboratories
Phone Number: (615) 833-4101
Do they take orders? Don't know; haven't bothered calling yet.


Daniel B. has mentioned "Kroil" here a couple of times, but didn't ever allude to where he got it or could get it. From what Matt told me, he got his through his dad's business contacts.

The 3rd gen (real forum) guys have this link where some have ordered this product:

http://www.mcfarlane-aviation.com/aeroKroil.htm

Kicks the living crap out of all the other "pretender" penetrating oils.


B) Part numbers for caliper mounting bracket hardware:

New Caliper Mounting Bolts: 08044-2401A - $2 or $3 each
New Caliper Mounting Bolt Washers: 08915-2421A - $.30 each

You'll need 4 of each for the 2 front calipers; rear caliper parts are different, since they are torqued differently.

C)

Torque Spec on Front Mounting Bolts for Caliper Bracket: 53 to 72 ft/lb

Those front caliper mounting bracket ones are on fairly tight. Whoever did the brakes last time didn't torque them down properly.

iwannabmw

iTrader: (3)

Wow, someone's being awfully generous this morning. Is this the caffeineated Bill?

bill99gxe

iTrader: (1)

Notice the tone of the post: clear constructive sentences, no caps lock on, etc. It makes a difference whether I respond or not and a futher example of how everyone is treated differently, but those who are respectful are treated the same.