CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

i mean, it's whatever, man

viperbite

srssly why cant i rep anyone?


dont like boys. thats wrong. god doesnt like boys.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

i was kidding(we do that sometimes, lol)
im not sure what you mean by "rep" somebody. maybe its bc okc is aka bfe, but i thought rep=represent...(your "rep"= reputation?)

are you talking about the itrader deal? its used for transactions(money/parts, or trades, etc.) on this forum. other forums use those for reputation points, but sometimes it seems like a popularity contest, and i hate pop(its soda!!! get it right, yankees!!! lol)

viperbite

oh. so theres no reps here
aww.....


i have like 1200 on 240atlanta.com :P

aight itrader it is then... i dont buy and sell too much maxima stuff though.

fulyngu

Finally checked the ohm's like you said and yup... 2 dead injectors!
Since those things are like 100 bucks each would I be better off buying a used engine for $450 and slapping that puppy in there?

Mz Retta

i have a 94 maxima and i was inquiring about a pair of hid lights and fog lights. im new to the whole modifications thing but im willing to learn. my car is dark green and i want lights that would look "nice" not too bright but it has to turn heads and make a statement of "sexy"! lol. any recommendations?
i also want to inquire about a new grill...

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

when you do HIDs, you'll be foolish not to do projectors. in the 3rd gen forum (pretty close to the top) look for the thread "look what I did!!". That's a near-perfect projector/HID retrofit. Shoot for something like that. 4300k is the brightest, whitest, and the highest K-temp that is actually road legal. Higher than 4300k bulbs are bluer, gayer, and illegal.

serephim87

Hey everyone im new to this site but i have some exp. wit cars since i perfer to do most of the maintence on my car.... but yeaaa... i was wondering if anyone could give me some advice or opinion.... i want to mod my car mainly performance but im debeting whether its worth the money.... i have a 91 maxima with a vg30e engine and H chasis.... but the chasis has some serious rust in the trunk and i just need a few maintence tings like a fuel injector and shut the hole in my muffler other than that she run like a beaut.... also i want to make it standard.... and i really like the maxima itself and its hard to find another 3rd gen maxima... but maybe you guys can just give me your opinion on should i put my money into it or get a new car.... thanks in advance btw.....

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

is the rust on the body or on the trunklid? depending how much you like the car, you may want to see what it would run you to have the rust patched, and while you're at it, get the underbody re-rubbercoated.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

time to replace injectors: 2hrs
time to replace motor: 12 hrs (does not include replacing timing belt or water pump nor transferring over accessories)

moral: replace the injectors and live with a motor you already know about, rather than one with an unknown history.

and you should do all 6 injectors at once on the VG, no point in doing labor twice.

ProphetVG30E

okay, what sense does that make????

buy 6 new injectors for approx 600, and not have to worry about much for a long while.

but hey if you want to drop another motor in it, knock yourself out.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

with the added bonus of knowing nothing about the "new" engine, and the probability of bad injectors, again....(or some other ...fun... problems...)

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

yeah. we made a good decision on my friend's car. went from rod knock on the old engine to "just" a blown head gasket and worn rings on the JY engine. but we reused his injectors b/c we knew they were good. so, fulyngyu, your best bet, if you are so worried about cost, is to buy a few well-ohm'd injectors off a JY car (or better yet, a running parts car) and put them in until your pockets run a little deeper.

serephim87

well the rust is on the body its self the back seat belts on the driver side no longer is in place its just flapping around.... i was hoping to put a friend there and test if it still works...(JK)..... but thats really about it and yeaa i kinda really like my car

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

the seatbelt rust issue was a recall!!! nobody told you? you could have prevented it for free... dang. is that the only place where rust is on it tho? if so you MIGHT be able to get Nissan to remedy it for you, tho it may be simply too fargone to fix... but if they can/will fix it, and you WILL have to *****, complain, and show some claws to get them to do it.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

speaking of *****ing and complaining, i went to the local nissan and asked about the seatbelt warranty(when its hot outside, my seatbelt-not-latched warning comes on. with a wiggle it sometimes fixes...) he (the warranty dept. head, or whoever) said they could look at it, but if it wasn't covered by warranty, they would charge me $92 for diagnosis... im gonna call hq and get a final word from them. i ain't gonna get charged for to find out if something is warrantied.(no work/diagnosis yet, just gotta vent.)

KillaKarebear

Yea I am wanting to painting my rear reflector. What type of paint should I use? should I sand and primer it 1st? Is there any thing else you guys recommend I should do?

webermax

Hello, The radio in my 94 just stoped working. It still plays cds and the tuner comes on but it will not get reception on any channel. It will actually work on rare occasions (maybe once a day) but it will stop within a couple or minutes or less. The tuner stays on but it looses the reception for any and all channels so it just mutes out any static.

Does this sound like a problem with the radio or the antenna? The antenna has been damaged where it does not raise and lower but it has never affected my reception. I realize the radios are crap and it would probably be good to go ahead and replace it but I am planning to sell the car soon and want to focus on fixing the problem with as little money as possible.

Thanks for any input!!!!

fulyngu

Thanks for all the great advice everyone!
It's a shame that those screws are 'just' under the manifold...
(Especially since the 2 bad ones are in the middle and would be easy to get to) Looks like I have some fun times ahead
I will let you know how it turns out... Thanks again.

gcroopert

93 Nissan Maxima GXE - I've been having problems with a sluggish maxima for a few months. Got a diagnostic which showed a problem in injector 1 and 3. My mechanic, a friend, got injectors for an SE by mistake, and now the correct ones are on order.

I'm worried now that it could be the MAF from reading other posts. Someone please tell me what a MAF is?

gcroopert

93 Nissan Maxima GXE - I've been having problems with a sluggish maxima for a few months. Got a diagnostic which showed a problem in injector 1 and 3. My mechanic, a friend, got injectors for an SE by mistake, and now the correct ones are on order.

I'm worried now that it could be the MAF from reading other posts. Someone please tell me what a MAF is?

whattingh

M*** Air Flow Sensor. It measures the amount of air the go into the engine.
MAF circled in red

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

well if the injectors are bad, they are bad. swapping MAFs won't fix the injectors, so you still need those replaced. once you get them replaced, then see how it runs before you worry about a MAF. but yeah, the injectors on 92-94 were different from GXE to SE, because of the fact that that year range of SE all had VE30DEs, and the GXEs had VG30Es. All 89-91 (as well as 85-88, aka 2nd gen maxima) had the VG. But even the VG injectors saw a design change in 92, i assume just because they decided to make the clip much more user-friendly, and had to change the shape of it to make them fit the new-improved plug design.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

I looked at that engine bay for a full minute before i realized why it looked funny(rhd). where are you from?

3g94MaxGXE

I checked this thread for a day or two and nobody responded so I didn't get this till today. Anyways I uninstalled the new cone air filter and sometimes when I start it it behaves the way it did but it corrects itself within a block or two. Then today I went for a long drive assuming the ECU was just relearning itself and that my problem was gone. On the return trip it was hot as heck (outside) and it did its usual bad behavior for well over 5 miles.

I just really don't know what to do anymore cause I don't really have the money to fix more than 1 or 2 things and if I do fix them and they go bad right away for the same stupid reasons as the old ones then I've wasted money and accomplished nothing.

I don't know if either of these photos could help you but here's the ones I took before I put the stock airbox back on

destroy452

Thanks. I'm gonna try that. I'm also going to (eventually) do the 85/100 watt headlight conversion. Thanks for your help

charlie b

i got a 93 maxima and its done 179,000 miles and i recently found a leak aound the front right control arm and on the sump gasket where all the belts are , its a brown colour so its definately oil , its not too bad , just annoying, i check the oil regularly but i want to just get rid of the damn leak. ....( yes im a noob) ..any ideas?

whattingh

I'm from South Africa. There is a lot of things that is differ between maxima's in SA and there with you. For some reason, that nobody can explain, it was never that popular here in SA. Sad really. It is such a great car.

whattingh

I'm from South Africa. There is a lot of things that is differ between maxima's in SA and there with you. For some reason, that nobody can explain, it was never that popular here in SA. Sad really. It is such a great car.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

It still may be power steering fluid, if the p/s fluid is original, it is most likely is brown in color, not red like it should be. Your best bet is to clean the area with some spray degreaser and a hose. then watch carefully over the days ahead of the source of the leak.

Oh btw, chances are your control arm bushing on that side is now toast, so make plans to replace it in the future.

gcroopert

Thanks a bunch. I have my fingers crossed that tonight it will run again! I miss driving her so much!

coolsun

iTrader: (10)

what are the torque specs on the valve covers on the VE?
thanks

mikekantor

iTrader: (5)

EM-65 in FSM:

Do centers then corners to 2.9 ft-lb, then centers followed by top-center, bottom-center, and etc keep going up and down like that and do them all to 5.8-7.2 ft-lb.

coolsun

iTrader: (10)

srry one more thing whats the torque for the manifold and throttle body?

mikekantor

iTrader: (5)

The plenum bolts are 13-16 ft-lb, dont go far over because they will round off very easily on the inside, same for the throttle bolts.

coolsun

iTrader: (10)

thanks
alot

Rayovac

noob here with a couple of MAF questions:

When a MAF goes, is it usually an on/off kind of thing, or can it degrade gradually?

Recently acquired a '92 VG with 167,000 km (103,000 mi) that started exhibiting some bad MAF symptoms, but only intermittently. The engine would hesitate and revs were capped at around 2,000 rpm. Shutting down and restarting would solve the issue. Aside from these episodes, the car runs fairly smoothly both at idle and on acceleration. Gas mileage, however, is quite poor.

After doing lots of reading here, I learned how to pull codes from the ECU and got a 12. Suspicion confirmed.

I went to the wreckers and pulled a MAF off a junker and swapped it out. Problem went away for a while, but has since resurfaced. Another bad MAF? Can they be safely cleaned with electrical connection cleaner? I've tried to find dedicated MAF cleaner, but no luck.

The Pic a Part has a 30 day return policy so I'll probably take it back and try one more.

Any insight would be appreciated.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

check the contacts for corrosion? or are there any breaks/damages to the wire(s)/harness? sometimes you can get a bad part/sensor to replace a bad one, so go ahead and exchange it, and try again. but also check for stated problems

KillaKarebear

If it is an eneine oil leak just make sure if you hose anywhere near the engine that the car is running while you do it . If its a oil leak u dont wanna get water in the engine. and for those of you that say im full it shut up it happens my dumbass mess up a s13 with about $7,000 of mods just from a oil leak and water. But I think Greeny is right about power steering Good luck

Rayovac

Thanks for the suggestions. When I switched out the MAF, I cleaned the contacts with a spray electrical connection cleaner. The wires and harness look to be in good shape, but that's to my untrained eye.