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Front Roll Reduction

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Old 10-23-2002, 07:54 AM
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Front Roll Reduction

I just upgraded from a '97 auto max to a '99 manual and previously had H&R coils with stock struts/shocks. I really liked the H&R's (great ride with good performance), but before transferring my suspension to the '99 I was interested to see what options I might have to help reduce roll in the front of the car. I'm not sure If I'm just used to the setup which includes the rear sway bar tightened up fairly tight, but it seems like the front sways a bit more than I prefer. Also, I don't really want to fork out the money for a race ready coil over kit. I also have a FSTB.

My questions are:
Would different springs have much of an effect on sway compared to the H&R's?
Would the KYB AGX's have any effect on sway?
How do bushings effect sway? (although the '99 only has 30K mi)
Could the new Body mount Stillen FSTB help?
Any other suggestions?

A front sway bar doesn't really seem like a good option, too much of a pain in the *** to change and could upset the balance correction the RSB adds.
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Old 10-23-2002, 08:04 AM
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SFCs
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Old 10-23-2002, 08:23 AM
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I have a 99, here's my setup.

H&R's
KYB AGX all around
Energy Sway Bar Endlink Bushings
FSTB
RSB
17" wheels and sticky "Z" rated tires.

There is no body roll at all in my car. It's like it's on rails.

If your having to much body roll, put the AGX's in your car. There awsome combined with H&R's. Very firm, yet comfy enough as a daily driver.
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Old 10-23-2002, 08:59 AM
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Originally posted by njmaxseltd
I have a 99, here's my setup.

H&R's
KYB AGX all around
Energy Sway Bar Endlink Bushings
FSTB
RSB
17" wheels and sticky "Z" rated tires.

There is no body roll at all in my car. It's like it's on rails.

If your having to much body roll, put the AGX's in your car. There awsome combined with H&R's. Very firm, yet comfy enough as a daily driver.
I "will" have the same set-up except for the KYB's and the bushings. I'm Pretty sure I'll be getting the KYB's, but do the bushings help keep things horizontal?
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Old 10-23-2002, 09:41 AM
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I really think the best Maxima suspension would be to get a set of Sprint Springs, cut two coils off of the rear, and get some Sub-frame connectors. A FSTB is optional for looks. The increased spring rate from the cut rear Sprints will offset the need for a RSB (which is just a big spring anyway). The SFCs will tighten the chassis enough to get rid of any flex. Pair that up with a good strut and you'll have a nice firm, but not harsh ride.
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Old 10-23-2002, 10:30 AM
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Originally posted by NightRider
I really think the best Maxima suspension would be to get a set of Sprint Springs, cut two coils off of the rear,


http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=160811

'Nuf said.
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Old 10-24-2002, 10:01 PM
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Originally posted by njmaxseltd



http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=160811

'Nuf said.
That is an isolated event. There haven't been too many like it either. The springs are not bad. There have been sagging problems with H&Rs too, but you still like them. This person could've gotten a bad spring. It has happened to many companies. You can't say that all Sprint Springs are bad because one person got a bad one. I still hold my previous statement.
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Old 10-24-2002, 10:58 PM
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If you reduce body roll even more, you realize the your car will understeer even more?? In stock form, most people think that the Maxima understeers too much anyways. What you might want to do is increase oversteer with and RSB, or reduce understeer with a smaller front sway bar.

This guy found a company that makes smaller front sway bars for the Maxima, a rare find;

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....front+sway+bar

DW
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Old 10-25-2002, 06:20 AM
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Originally posted by NightRider


That is an isolated event. There haven't been too many like it either. The springs are not bad. There have been sagging problems with H&Rs too, but you still like them. This person could've gotten a bad spring. It has happened to many companies. You can't say that all Sprint Springs are bad because one person got a bad one. I still hold my previous statement.
Sorry NightRider I don't mean to bad mouth the springs. But fact is they lower the car to much. A 2 inch drop only leaves you with 1 - maybe 1.5 inches of shock travel. There's no way around it by design of our cars suspension system. Nick did not get bad springs from Sprint, I guarantee that!

H&R's don't sag, on cars with lighter front ends (5 Speeds) and heavy audio equipment in the trunk, (subs ect) the front will sit higher then the rear. This also happens on 5 speeds with completely stock suspensions in our cars. If you look closely at the 4x4 setup, the front always sits higher then the rear. It comes that way from Nissan. When you lower it slightly, that difference is more noticeable because of the tighter fender to wheel gap.
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Old 10-25-2002, 09:07 AM
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Originally posted by dwapenyi
If you reduce body roll even more, you realize the your car will understeer even more?? In stock form, most people think that the Maxima understeers too much anyways. What you might want to do is increase oversteer with and RSB, or reduce understeer with a smaller front sway bar.

This guy found a company that makes smaller front sway bars for the Maxima, a rare find;

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....front+sway+bar

DW
Yes I realize this. That's why I'm so concerned about upsetting the balance I have now. I was thinking if I chose springs that are stiffer than the H&R's, Both the rear and the front will get similar changes resulting in some balance near what I have now. You make good points for changing the front sway bar to a smaller one, but the lean makes it uncomfortable, and seems like you could sacrifice traction with excessive lean? Seems like stiffening up the rear end would be better. I once read that Stillen had welded the rear beam effectively into a tube to help with stiffness. I also thought with AGX's I could help control the lean, but that's not really their responsibility. It's not like something's wrong, but after 60k miles of the same set-up I find myself wanting more now.
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Old 10-25-2002, 10:32 AM
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Originally posted by dwapenyi
If you reduce body roll even more, you realize the your car will understeer even more?? In stock form, most people think that the Maxima understeers too much anyways. What you might want to do is increase oversteer with and RSB, or reduce understeer with a smaller front sway bar.

This guy found a company that makes smaller front sway bars for the Maxima, a rare find;

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....front+sway+bar

DW
Thanks for reposting that link. I was talking to Saner in FL about a larger RSB but gave up on the idea of a smaller FSB.
Saner Performance

Somebody help me with the math - moving from a 31mm to a 30mm diam is 6.3% more twist?
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Old 10-25-2002, 02:41 PM
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I see what you're saying, and maybe the AGXs are what you're looking for. Since you have relativeley new H&Rs on the stock OEM Tokicos, maybe the worn out Toks are what's causing the lean. I know that the springs are the ones that control roll, but I'm sure that struts help as well. I have H&Rs and the aftermarket Tokicos, more popularly known as the Tokico Blues. When I replaced the OEM setup at 100K miles, I got a slightly stiffer ride with much more roll control. Comparing Tokico Blues to the adjustable AGXs, it seems that the AGXs, at the softest setting, are stiffer than Tokico. So keep that in mind. If strut adjustability is a must have feature, you can't go wrong with the AGXs.

DW

Originally posted by MAXimumHP


Yes I realize this. That's why I'm so concerned about upsetting the balance I have now. I was thinking if I chose springs that are stiffer than the H&R's, Both the rear and the front will get similar changes resulting in some balance near what I have now. You make good points for changing the front sway bar to a smaller one, but the lean makes it uncomfortable, and seems like you could sacrifice traction with excessive lean? Seems like stiffening up the rear end would be better. I once read that Stillen had welded the rear beam effectively into a tube to help with stiffness. I also thought with AGX's I could help control the lean, but that's not really their responsibility. It's not like something's wrong, but after 60k miles of the same set-up I find myself wanting more now.
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Old 10-25-2002, 03:39 PM
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I recommend a book call "How to make your car handle" before you decide on what brand of what. Make sure you know the basics of handling issues before you go on with you mods. Don't listen to people because they have a particular setup. I personally drive my car and race my kart on a stiffer front susp then the rear and I like the car push just enough and don't like oversteer very much. A lot of people or racers don't like this setup because it pushes, but it carries faster speed thru sweepers instead of dot to dot turns. Get this book first, get familiar with all the concepts and go from there.

I recommended this book to dwapenyi before.

Tifosi
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Old 10-25-2002, 04:45 PM
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Did I fail handling Dynamics 101 or something?

DW

Originally posted by Tifosi

I recommended this book to dwapenyi before.

Tifosi
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Old 10-25-2002, 04:56 PM
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Originally posted by dwapenyi
Did I fail handling Dynamics 101 or something?

DW

Hey DW, what's up? Nah, after that RSB thread, I think you got the ideas well.

My last post wasn't directed to anyone in particular, but I think everyone who owns a car and already did or plan to do handling mods should read this book first.

Tifosi
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Old 10-25-2002, 05:37 PM
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How about the FSB bushings (endlink & midbar)? How hard are they to install? I have Sprints/FSTB/RSB, AGXs to come in early next week, and hopefully will buy an RSTB soon after that. Is it worth buying the ES bushings? They are so cheap I don't see how I could go bad. Any comments? And the install is really bugging me because I plan on doing it myself, and the FSB seems hard to get to.
-Cyrus
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Old 10-25-2002, 07:32 PM
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Handling can be so subjective. When I used to modify my Integra I would buy all sorts of suspension parts to better the handling. A lot of Honda guys I met up with like to autocross a lot so their suspension set-up is usually like smaller front sway bar or no front sway bar and the largest rear swaybar available; some which require welding of new brackets and relocation of mounting on the rear lower control arm. We all ran Koni Sport dampers and Neuspeed sport springs. At any rate, these guys would say how great their cars "handle". While their setup may be ideal in going around cones on a shopping mall parking lot, the behavior on a stretch of curvy road is quite different. I've tinkered with replacing swaybars and bushings on my Integra and I found that stiffening both ends of the car netted greater confidence in my car. I drove around with a 22mm rsb (stock is 14mm) and I can feel the rear exerting leverage the front couldn't combat. I was experiencing too much front end lean. I installed front poly swaybar bushings on the stock swaybar and the front end felt more level. I gained more confidence in my car. The car may understeer a bit more but I can certainly drive at higher speeds than the other Integra guys in the twisties. I had more grip on the front end because front end lean was reduced. I went ahead and purchased an aftermarket front sway bar with its polybushings and the front end lean was was imperceptible. My Integra cornered flat.

Reducing roll in the front can make the car more stable. If you stiffen just the rear you will introduce even more front-end roll than you are already experience. Start with replacing the front sway bar bushings with poly bushings and the endlinks like the others mentioned. The parts are so cheap and can be easily installed. Stiffening the front bushings can can help increase steering effort in the process (better feel of the road) at the same time, simply because your front end is better planted.

Now with my experience with the Maxima, replacing the front sway bar bushings with polyurethane and new endlinks helped the front end lean. Try it out since thats what youre looking for.
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Old 10-26-2002, 09:32 AM
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That's the thing with the Maxima. People complain that it plows with alot of understeer once it reaches it's limit. What most don't appreciate is that the limit is higher. I had adjusted my car so that it would oversteer sooner. But, by doing that, it did oversteer more, but it was less controllable because the rear end was so light. I settled the car down to understeering 1st, and oversteering only a moment after is starts understeering. Not quite a drift but close and very workable. I did that by setting my ADDCO RSB in it's "stock" setting, and having my front pressure at 37 PSI, the rears at 32.

DW
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Old 10-26-2002, 11:31 AM
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Dude, this is retarded. So much chatter for this question? Common. First mzmtg is right. SFC's are cool. But dude, GET SOME REAL SHOCKS/STRUTS! If you have been riding on those OEM's with the H&Rs long, they are gone. And either way, the difference with AGX's is night and day. The incredible difference in ride characteristic between 1 setting change in the AGX adjustables prooved to me just how vital they are, and that dropping my car with good springs alone would not have done nearly ANYTHING. Set the AGX's on 4 in the front, and try .. I mean TRY .. to push the car down. Good luck.
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