NitrousDiscuss dry, wet, and direct port nitrous setups. How many shots can you handle?
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The standard NX solenoids are rated at 175 HP. The -4AN bottle lines aren't good for even that much - not from the trunk, anyway.
To go higher, you will need 400 HP solenoids, a -6AN feed line from the bottle, a 5/16" fuel line tap, and -4AN couplers on both sides of the fuel solenoid. Also the nozzle lines need to be -4AN tubing with -4AN and -3AN connectors. An upgraded fuel filter is also needed, and your fuel pump better be a Walbro.
A single 100-shot is more than most cars can handle without most of the above mods. I was on a drag strip last night, launching with a 100-shot, and tire spin was crazy - a progressive controller is a good idea for most people - I won't use one. Too hard on solenoids...
The standard NX solenoids are rated at 175 HP. The -4AN bottle lines aren't good for even that much - not from the trunk, anyway.
To go higher, you will need 400 HP solenoids, a -6AN feed line from the bottle, a 5/16" fuel line tap, and -4AN couplers on both sides of the fuel solenoid. Also the nozzle lines need to be -4AN tubing with -4AN and -3AN connectors. An upgraded fuel filter is also needed, and your fuel pump better be a Walbro.
A single 100-shot is more than most cars can handle without most of the above mods. I was on a drag strip last night, launching with a 100-shot, and tire spin was crazy - a progressive controller is a good idea for most people - I won't use one. Too hard on solenoids...
I thought all the NX kits came with the 400hp solenoids except the mainline.
Guess I was wrong lol.
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I thought all the NX kits came with the 400hp solenoids except the mainline.
Guess I was wrong lol.
First rule of nitrous - don't assume anything. The import EFI kits are capable of 75-shot and not much more. Above that, it's mostly a plumbing problem. When you draw more fluid, you gotta have a larger pipe from the source (fuel or nitrous) to the nozzle. More fluid moving means more resistance in the lines. Larger fuel lines, bigger pump and larger nitrous lines are required for the larger shots - and the solenoids must be able to pass the volume for the shot.
I got very tired of dealing with restrictions, so I replaced everything with larger components. Everything.....
Thanks for the info. I guess I'll stick with my 150 shot for now. Maybe I buy a mainline kit and run a completely separate 2nd stage when and if I decide I want more.
My -4an nitrous line seems to supply enough for the 150 shot because my afr is around 12.5:1.
Thanks for the info. I guess I'll stick with my 150 shot for now. Maybe I buy a mainline kit and run a completely separate 2nd stage when and if I decide I want more.
My -4an nitrous line seems to supply enough for the 150 shot because my afr is around 12.5:1.
I'm sure you know what you're doing - but - when you hit the spray switch (however you do it) does the 150-shot throw you back in the seat and smoke your tires and break loose immediately?
'Cause if not, you have restrictions in your feed lines.... you can have reasonable A/F and have flow restrictions in the nitrous and fuel systems. Your power will just be reduced. Been there, done that.
I'm sure you know what you're doing - but - when you hit the spray switch (however you do it) does the 150-shot throw you back in the seat and smoke your tires and break loose immediately?
'Cause if not, you have restrictions in your feed lines.... you can have reasonable A/F and have flow restrictions in the nitrous and fuel systems. Your power will just be reduced. Been there, done that.
???
I have a DynoTune Two Stage RPM Window Switch to control my nitrous engagement. I have it set to spray WOT from 4k-6.5k rpm. Other than that, I just have a main arming switch. It works really well.
It DEFINITELY throws me back in the seat and I completely loose traction at speeds less than 70mph. Sometimes it spins the tires a little above 70 mph in 3rd gear. I have a functioning vlsd mt, 235/40-18 tires, and limiting straps.
I failed to mention that I made my nitrous line shorter because it's behind the driver's seat...
I have a DynoTune Two Stage RPM Window Switch to control my nitrous engagement. I have it set to spray WOT from 4k-6.5k rpm. Other than that, I just have a main arming switch. It works really well.
It DEFINITELY throws me back in the seat and I completely loose traction at speeds less than 70mph. Sometimes it spins the tires a little above 70 mph in 3rd gear. I have a functioning vlsd mt, 235/40-18 tires, and limiting straps.
I failed to mention that I made my nitrous line shorter because it's behind the driver's seat...
That's a scary setup you have there - I like it.
It sounds like your setup is working pretty well, then. Had your car on a track yet? I can't spray more than a 100-shot in my first stage at the strip (second stage in 2nd and 3rd OK) - on the street with a first-stage 75-shot, no traction in first or second gears, and if I engage the 100-shot second stage in third, I fall off the highway.
Have you dynoed your car off and on nitrous? That's the only way to be sure at the higher shot levels - my dyno WHP is slightly better than one WHP for every one shot I spray (NX - you know what I mean) on up to 175-shot combined.
Bigger feed lines are better - in my experience. FWIW....
It sounds like your setup is working pretty well, then. Had your car on a track yet? I can't spray more than a 100-shot in my first stage at the strip (second stage in 2nd and 3rd OK) - on the street with a first-stage 75-shot, no traction in first or second gears, and if I engage the 100-shot second stage in third, I fall off the highway.
Have you dynoed your car off and on nitrous? That's the only way to be sure at the higher shot levels - my dyno WHP is slightly better than one WHP for every one shot I spray (NX - you know what I mean) on up to 175-shot combined.
Bigger feed lines are better - in my experience. FWIW....
Thanks.
I haven't been to the track yet... I actually went to the track yesterday, but it was closed due to rain. I was fully prepared with slicks and a bit of weight reduction. Funny thing is, it didn't rain all day and there was only a 10% chance of precipitation. Next weekend is my last chance to go to the track before the season is over.
I haven't dynoed my car, but I would like to. Before I bought my newer VE30, it was dynoed by the previous owner and it supposedly put down 205 whp na.
First rule of nitrous - don't assume anything. The import EFI kits are capable of 75-shot and not much more. Above that, it's mostly a plumbing problem. When you draw more fluid, you gotta have a larger pipe from the source (fuel or nitrous) to the nozzle. More fluid moving means more resistance in the lines. Larger fuel lines, bigger pump and larger nitrous lines are required for the larger shots - and the solenoids must be able to pass the volume for the shot.
I got very tired of dealing with restrictions, so I replaced everything with larger components. Everything.....
Here's an old dyno I have of a import efi kit. That's a little more than a 75 shot.
Here's an old dyno I have of a import efi kit. That's a little more than a 75 shot.
It looks like 3 dyno runs were made here. Let me guess, first was an NA baseline, next was a 75 shot, and then the last was a 125-150 shot?? Did you ever make any 1/4 mile passes in the Z with a 125-150 shot?
I'l be running her this weekend at a local drag event. Still have an intercooler spray bar, new nozzle, and carbonetics triple disc to put in before saturday. then we can tune for 22psi + 100 shot.
I just noticed - that dyno sheet is FLYWHEEL power, not WHP. That's pretty puny for a 350Z, isn't it? 15% loss if it's a stick, 20% loss if it's an automatic.
Personally, I'm set for 430 WHP at the moment. That's 537 crank HP.....
I might have to get a progressive controller and some 200-250 shot jets!
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