NitrousDiscuss dry, wet, and direct port nitrous setups. How many shots can you handle?
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I see something very wrong here ?? - the FP switch is controlling the Gnd (BLK) connection of the MSD RPM switch. This means that the MSD is not powered up until the WOT switch is activated, and that takes a few seconds before it works.
The black wire from the MSD should go directly to a battery ground, and the WOT switch should go to switched battery + , through the FP Switch , to the arming switch +12v connection.
Nice diagram, though....
Ok, after reading your post, the diagram should look like this?
think i might take the time to make this look good at some point for general reference. Going to be doing my own nitrous instal hopefully around christmas
__________________
Pebble Beige Baby
'95 Autotragic Freak
19" Staggered Sportmaxx 962's | D2 Coilovers | V-AFC2 | FrankenCar Intake | Unorthodox UDP
Budget Y-Pipe | Custom Exhaust | David L's Red/Clears
00vi and nitrous soon
First 1/4 times from Maxus '09 : 15.93 @ 85.77 SHIFT_on-a-budget
FPSS is only to be used to cut ground. It can't handle any charge.
Well just because something "cuts ground" (or breaks the circuit) it still has a full charge of the power in the circuit going through it (until it breaks it of course). It's basically a mechanical relay relying on the fuel pressure to keep the internal diaphragm "up" to keep a positive connection through the switch. The original NOs kit had the FPSS on the ground lead of the secondary nitrous solenoid (it ran 2 for regulation of fuel and nitrous pressure). Now that has a lot more load/current going through it than the arming switch.
edit: Here's the diagram
Part of the reason we had the kit wired the way we did, initially, was due to the length of the connectors and wires already present in the kit that just seemed to fit into the car (minus a few odds and ends for the arming switch). Now don't get me wrong, I do agree that having that switch be subjected to those currents would/could lessen the life of the switch. Grant is going to be getting the Dynotune A/F safety cut-off switch here very shortly when he gets a LC1 wideband.
__________________
Pebble Beige Baby
'95 Autotragic Freak
19" Staggered Sportmaxx 962's | D2 Coilovers | V-AFC2 | FrankenCar Intake | Unorthodox UDP
Budget Y-Pipe | Custom Exhaust | David L's Red/Clears
00vi and nitrous soon
First 1/4 times from Maxus '09 : 15.93 @ 85.77 SHIFT_on-a-budget
Last edited by Mad-MAX_SE; 11-03-2009 at 09:10 PM.
NOTE: The switch is a low current switch, running high current devices like solenoids directly through the switch
contacts will destroy the switch and void your warranty.
As per Dynotune's suggestions. Better safe then sorry. Oh well.
I have my system wird alittle different but the concept is all the same. I have the niod hard wire directly to the battery and the relay providing ground
And with my progressive nitrous control is does not samething it adds and removes ground but that part does not matter cause a relay will do whatever you tell it
but any of the diagrams will work fine
__________________ My Cardomain _ _Maxima runs 13.4@109
Dyno:? whp & ? wtq
Nitrous PB: 13.4@110mph
All Motor PB: 14.0@99mph
3280lb with driver, full trim, rims, spare, jack, fluids, etc & notorized proof
Ok, after reading your post, the diagram should look like this?
think i might take the time to make this look good at some point for general reference. Going to be doing my own nitrous instal hopefully around christmas
That's what I meant - the WOT and FPSS just control the +12 volts going to the relay coil, so no high current there. The MSD should always have power connections and tach connection when the car is running - only use the yellow or grey control wires to run other circuits, like the nitrous solenoid relay.
My dual-stage has a lot of tricks - and the diagrams would be confusing, so I'll skip mine. You should know that energizing the solenoid pair can create a voltage spike that can reset the MSD, which takes a while to reboot. I have large electrolytic capacitors across each solenoid relay to absorb the spike. I use a WOT switch for the first stage and a floor switch for the second stage. There's more, but there's lot of bitter experience in there...
You sure stirred up a lot of interest in nitrous wiring diagrams! never saw so many in one thread.......
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