NitrousDiscuss dry, wet, and direct port nitrous setups. How many shots can you handle?
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Hey guys I just picked up a NOS EFI universal wet nitrous kit. Ive read a lot and im finally ready to go through with this. I really want to do this right, clean install and safe spraying. Heres a couple pics i took, i guess i have most of the stuff needed, but i know i need jets and some other things might be missing. Any help is appreciated in advance...
If you have a manual I would HIGHLY recommend a window switch.
Enjoy the kit!
yeah its manual. the window switch would be nice but im sure i should be able to back off the button a few hundred rpms before i shift. plus i shift way before the fuel cut anyway...
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Originally Posted by t6378tp
bottle warmer
yeah thats pretty much a must...a friend is parting out a dynotune kit so im gonna install his extended studs and scoop up the warmer and maybe the guage.
well ive been reading up on the instructions online and have started to install the kit. so far i have mounted the solenoids, routed the fuel pickup line and fuel/nitrous lines towards the midpipe, brought the arming and activation switches into the car, and ran the main line under the car into the trunk. i still have to wird up the relay, tap into the fuel line(anybody make rails for our cars???), mount the nozzle onto the midpipe, install the bottle and brackets, and seal all the fittings.
ove read that teflon tape shouldnt be used and to use a teflon paste. i found one that the max pressure was only 125psi, and the other had a max psi of 2500, but said it couldnt be used near anything flammable. any suggestions on this? i bought a Z32 fuel filter, should i buy that line that goes from the filter to the rail and put the T in that, or is the old one fine? and tha plugs im gonna get are PFR4G-11, these are one step colder right i just looked it up in the owners manual. what about cutting some of the ground strap and side gapping them? needed for less that 100 shot?
i might be missing some stuff and not asking some questions but any help or suggestions is appreciated. heres some pics so far...
Your fuel-Tee looks right - fuel line should be OK to cut like you show it - don't use teflon anything - use Loctite red for your joints. Your nitrous line under the car looks well made.
Hmmmm... another nitrous junkie is about to be born.
thanks for everything guys. i finished all the wiring today, all thats left is to mount the bottle, fasten the nozzle in the mid pipe, and do the plugs. i ran the WOT ****ch into the car instead of mounting it on the throttle body, i think i would just rather have it in my hand for some reason...i wired up everything and tested it and it activated the solenoids.
the bottle i think im just going to weld in the brackets. i dont really want to drill, but i saw two bolts sticking up through that i might use, i think they are for the heat shield over the muffler. i still have to find a jam nut for the nozzle. i went to home depot but they didnt have a 7/16 fine thread jam nut, im gonna have to find something somewhere.
i think the plugs are NGK PFR5G-11 (platinum), with a 0.043 in. gap. i am going to run a 50 shot right away and maybe going up to a 75 max later on. would i be alright to just get the normal plugs or would one step colder be better? should i get copper? what about the gap? any suggestions or advice you guys can give me is very much appreciated.
ok i made a bit more work for myself but now i feel that i have a more complete kit. i got the nitrous pressure guage, purge, bottle warmer and better brackets. for the guage ill have to get the line that runs from the solenoid to the guage, i already got the light on and mounted it in my driver side vent.
i never really knew how the purge worked until i got it. it seems like it will make a lot of clutter by mounting another solenoid pretty much on top of the others. what do you guys think of the purge? is it really needed, can i do without it? also the heater did not come with the t-stat, is it safe to run the bottle warmer like that. i assume that i would just have to watch the guage and turn the heater off when it gets to where i want it, or maybe kill it a little a head of time.
anybody have the number for the one step colder NGK copper plugs.
You can do without a purge valve but you run the chance of not spraying pure nitrous into the intake when its necessary.
A purge valve will not only make a cool, intimidating plume of gas but it allows you to get the purest nitrous to the intake by eliminating air bubbles in the system.
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i have the Z32 filter and fuel line from the filter to the rail. the bottle is mounted....can i run the warmer without the t-stat??? also what plugs should i get? v-power are copper? bkr5e-11 good??? 6e? thanks
bkr6e or bkr6e11 same plug, only difference is the preset gap.
You can run the heater w/ out a t-stat, but keep an eye on it. You should be fine just using it to get the pressure up and then turning it off till you start spraying.
I have the same kit, just got done putting it in my maxima. Sadly i only had about 3lbs in the bottle sucker was full of air.
im thinking about getting a nitrous kit....im curious as to what a window switch is??? i have a 2001 VQ30DEK 5-speed and im new to nitrous and ive never heard of a window switch..... could someone please explain what it is and what it does... thanks
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Berk Technology intake, stillen front lip, 02-03 Sideskirts, AE'd headlights, 8k upper and lower HID's, Tein S-techs, FSTB, high flow cat, 2.5" Cat-back, Warpspeed Y pipe,18" RacingHart CR's, Dyno tune 75 shot, 2 JL audio 12's with competition amp...more to come
im thinking about getting a nitrous kit....im curious as to what a window switch is??? i have a 2001 VQ30DEK 5-speed and im new to nitrous and ive never heard of a window switch..... could someone please explain what it is and what it does... thanks
Google "window switch nitrous", it will give you all the info you need.
Well, I've melted a few NGK iridium tips. They bend over like a candle in the hot summer sun.... Must have been a bad day at the drag strip.
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Maybe just too much timing. I back off about 4 deg for the big shots and have been using these for 4 years. If the timing is too high it doesn't matter what plug you use it will melt. However I like being able to have different timing maps for n/a, light shot and heavy shot, it makes life a lot easier and I don't even have to use race fuel anymore, just good ole 94 Sunoco. Thank you UTEC.
Mine are 2 steps colder and I use them for n/a as well. They were in my car for my record n/a run and record nitrous runs.
Maybe just too much timing. I back off about 4 deg for the big shots and have been using these for 4 years. If the timing is too high it doesn't matter what plug you use it will melt. However I like being able to have different timing maps for n/a, light shot and heavy shot, it makes life a lot easier and I don't even have to use race fuel anymore, just good ole 94 Sunoco. Thank you UTEC.
Mine are 2 steps colder and I use them for n/a as well. They were in my car for my record n/a run and record nitrous runs.
So you think plug meltdowns are caused by too much advance? I've heard and read some about that.
I'm still using the stock ECU, and you know what that curve looks like... when I cut back the ground straps and used VP Racing 109 race fuel, all the plug meltdowns just stopped. I see that the true NGK racing plugs have recessed tips ( ? iridium ? ) which are highly recommended for "true race engines".
I did rebuild my fuel delivery system from "tank to crank" and now all the plugs look like they should. I had very uneven fuel supply to the rails and I think the 300ZXTT fuel filter wasn't up to the job, so it got changed out too.
Never a dull moment on the track, eh? Great job at MIR last weekend.
So you think plug meltdowns are caused by too much advance? I've heard and read some about that.
I'm still using the stock ECU, and you know what that curve looks like... when I cut back the ground straps and used VP Racing 109 race fuel, all the plug meltdowns just stopped. I see that the true NGK racing plugs have recessed tips ( ? iridium ? ) which are highly recommended for "true race engines".
I did rebuild my fuel delivery system from "tank to crank" and now all the plugs look like they should. I had very uneven fuel supply to the rails and I think the 300ZXTT fuel filter wasn't up to the job, so it got changed out too.
Never a dull moment on the track, eh? Great job at MIR last weekend.
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Timing has always caused any problems I had with nitrous. Without timing control race gas is a necessity. My old setup included a 1 gal cell, pump etc with 116 feeding just the nitrous. Worked well but added a lot of additional parts and circuitry and you know me "keep it simple stupid". Now its just a 255 pump with the fpr at the tank for a single feed line and dual feed rail.
Have you decided what you will be using for engine management yet? Sticking with the stock 4th Gen ECU will work but with all the stuff going into that engine I though you might go stand-alone. If I had it to do all over again I would probably go Megasquirt just to have something to play with and give me a challenge. Down the road my next project will probably be an Revup engine with a CVT setup and Uprev or Cobb for tuning. Thats when I get sick of my current setup and I still have a few things to try out yet.
Anxious to see you get your new engine going, its going to be a handful. Any idea yet when it will make its debut?
Was a little disappointed in the number of cars racing at MAXUS 09, was hoping for a lot more. It was a pretty easy field except for the Nissan All Motor Unlimited and Aaron. It was pretty hot and my cooling system quit after my first run and was leaking water. I finally got one of the fans working at low speed and tied a rag around the cooling hose leak but temps were still way over 200 and I had to wring out the wrag after each run to keep from dripping all over the track. Probably shouldn't have ran at all, it was a recipe for disaster being 600 miles from home. It turned out to be a severed low speed fan signal wire to the ECU which prevented any fan activity.
happy 4th of july guys. today im going to mount the bottle. it looks like my fuel T has a crack in it and its dripping fuel under pressure. i tried looking everywhere for a replacement but no luck. im going to have to get it straight from holley i guess.
bkr5e-11 ngk vpower. will these plugs work. i guess theyre stock heat range but i assume they are copper at least. ill will only be spraying 50 hp jets for now. the plugs were cheap if you guys think i should change them out its no problem.
thanks for the help guys. any other thoughts or advice is appreciated...
happy 4th of july guys. today im going to mount the bottle. it looks like my fuel T has a crack in it and its dripping fuel under pressure. i tried looking everywhere for a replacement but no luck. im going to have to get it straight from holley i guess.
bkr5e-11 ngk vpower. will these plugs work. i guess theyre stock heat range but i assume they are copper at least. ill will only be spraying 50 hp jets for now. the plugs were cheap if you guys think i should change them out its no problem.
thanks for the help guys. any other thoughts or advice is appreciated...
About the fuel tee - go to a hardware store that has brass 1/8" NTP fittings, get one Tee and three 5/16" hose-1/8 NTP fittings and screw them together using the blue Permatex stuff. Learn to love the fittings section of that hardware store.
Timing has always caused any problems I had with nitrous. Without timing control race gas is a necessity. My old setup included a 1 gal cell, pump etc with 116 feeding just the nitrous. Worked well but added a lot of additional parts and circuitry and you know me "keep it simple stupid". Now its just a 255 pump with the fpr at the tank for a single feed line and dual feed rail.
I remember your fuel cell setup - scary complicated stuff, so I didn't copy it... I installed another new Walbro HP 255lph pump, a 120Watt regulated power supply to run it, a huge CNC Aeromotive 800HP filter, a custom fuel distribution manifold and new Aeromotive shunt FPR, and dual fuel lines to the rails. At least this combination delivers fuel. For the new engine, it will be dual Walbros.
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Have you decided what you will be using for engine management yet? Sticking with the stock 4th Gen ECU will work but with all the stuff going into that engine I though you might go stand-alone. If I had it to do all over again I would probably go Megasquirt just to have something to play with and give me a challenge. Down the road my next project will probably be an Revup engine with a CVT setup and Uprev or Cobb for tuning. Thats when I get sick of my current setup and I still have a few things to try out yet.
I haven't decided anything yet. I've been concentrating on getting all systems to work right on my existing beater 3.5 - kinda laying some groundwork for the next engine. I really don't want to replace all the wiring and ECU from a 2002-up car or a stand-alone - I just don't have that much spare time. I like the features of the UTEC, but it requires the 3.5 flywheel timing, and I can't have both.
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Anxious to see you get your new engine going, its going to be a handful. Any idea yet when it will make its debut?
About the new engine - it's got a great built short block, and I've got some fine heads and cams from Cosworth, (about $6,000 worth) but those parts have - some problems. Serious problems. I'm giving their California office another week to resolve them, then I'll have to make everything public. This is really disappointing, because I have everything I need here and it would be together by now. Sigh. I think this will get messy. I hope not.
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Was a little disappointed in the number of cars racing at MAXUS 09, was hoping for a lot more. It was a pretty easy field except for the Nissan All Motor Unlimited and Aaron. It was pretty hot and my cooling system quit after my first run and was leaking water. I finally got one of the fans working at low speed and tied a rag around the cooling hose leak but temps were still way over 200 and I had to wring out the wrag after each run to keep from dripping all over the track. Probably shouldn't have ran at all, it was a recipe for disaster being 600 miles from home. It turned out to be a severed low speed fan signal wire to the ECU which prevented any fan activity.
We're all glad you did make it home - although you would have had a lot of help if you needed it, I'm sure. I personally won't go to a drag strip unless I tow there. When you go out a lot, you break the car a lot... Having Maxus 09 on the east coast guaranteed that some racers would show up, but serious Maxima racers are really scarce in the US of A. Maybe we racers need our own Maximum Maxus somewhere central for the racers interested in showing up.
I personally won't go to a drag strip unless I tow there. When you go out a lot, you break the car a lot... Having Maxus 09 on the east coast guaranteed that some racers would show up, but serious Maxima racers are really scarce in the US of A. Maybe we racers need our own Maximum Maxus somewhere central for the racers interested in showing up.
Well I live at the track, only 2 weekends off from April 1 to end of Oct. Towing is out of the question because I'm not going to buy a tow vehicle and I get 36 mpg in my Max so its very efficient. Usually I am within AAA range so I don't worry about breaking and I race N/A 99% of the time anyway. I won't spray again until Oct at the last race of the season like last year.
Don't plan on getting a cage either so I can't spray every weekend and it only takes a 50 shot to put me under 11.49. So I will just do it once a year and see if i can improve from the previous year. Racing is my passion not spraying, I am happy to run 12's and still beat most of the competition and so far I am up $2100 for the year so it pays expenses.
Well I live at the track, only 2 weekends off from April 1 to end of Oct. Towing is out of the question because I'm not going to buy a tow vehicle and I get 36 mpg in my Max so its very efficient. Usually I am within AAA range so I don't worry about breaking and I race N/A 99% of the time anyway. I won't spray again until Oct at the last race of the season like last year.
Don't plan on getting a cage either so I can't spray every weekend and it only takes a 50 shot to put me under 11.49. So I will just do it once a year and see if i can improve from the previous year. Racing is my passion not spraying, I am happy to run 12's and still beat most of the competition and so far I am up $2100 for the year so it pays expenses.
Lucky - I only get to a track maybe 5 times in a season, now.... 36mpg ? You should sell your design to Pres Obama for the model for his energy conservation plans. .. I still get about 27-28mpg with my fully-loaded car - and my wife's 2004 Maxima gets about the same - but not in your league.
Actually I think we have a local T-N-T on July 16 - maybe I can get there, but only if the temp is below 95*F - another wonderful thing about the Midwest - heat and humidity are unreal in the summer
Lucky - I only get to a track maybe 5 times in a season, now.... 36mpg ? You should sell your design to Pres Obama for the model for his energy conservation plans. .. I still get about 27-28mpg with my fully-loaded car - and my wife's 2004 Maxima gets about the same - but not in your league.
Actually I think we have a local T-N-T on July 16 - maybe I can get there, but only if the temp is below 95*F - another wonderful thing about the Midwest - heat and humidity are unreal in the summer
..
I have a 6 gal fuel cell and it was 635 miles to MAXUS 09. Filled up twice down and back. 200+ miles for each tank. I also carry about 6-700 lbs of tools, tires etc. I run around 15.5-16:1 afr.
My next little project is a DIY water/Meth injection setup which should give me a little better mileage.
I have a 6 gal fuel cell and it was 635 miles to MAXUS 09. Filled up twice down and back. 200+ miles for each tank. I also carry about 6-700 lbs of tools, tires etc. I run around 15.5-16:1 afr.
My next little project is a DIY water/Meth injection setup which should give me a little better mileage.
. I really want to do this right, clean install and safe spraying. Heres a couple pics i took, i guess i have most of the stuff needed, but i know i need jets and some other things might be missing. Any help is appreciated in advance...
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sucker was full of air.
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