NitrousDiscuss dry, wet, and direct port nitrous setups. How many shots can you handle?
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btw... tonight i pulled my spark plugs to check them out. the last time i sprayed nitrous was one week ago. my plugs have a greenish tint to them. i searched and couldn't get an answer...so i was wondering what is the color you want your plugs to be after spraying nitrous? what would each color mean as in green or blue....thanks!
__________________ Current Mods: 3.5 Swap, EU, Full exhaust
btw... tonight i pulled my spark plugs to check them out. the last time i sprayed nitrous was one week ago. my plugs have a greenish tint to them. i searched and couldn't get an answer...so i was wondering what is the color you want your plugs to be after spraying nitrous? what would each color mean as in green or blue....thanks!
Wow - you really did this right. In-line nitrous filter, MSD 8969 window switch, great electrical install - common grounds and all - and dual-purge! more guts than I've got... that will scare the ricers and street racers away.
Is this a dry kit? I didn't see a fuel solenoid, so if so, you should keep a pressure gauge on the fuel. Lean is not good. The colored glaze on your plugs' ground straps is the extra heat from nitrous melting the usual crud on your plugs into a form of glass - an expensive version of a pottery kiln... When your ground straps melt off, you have bigger problems - use race gas.
thanks grey! it was actually a fun install. doing it this way takes quite a few hours more than the "two hours" to install....but i like it. i will get pictures of the dual purge the next time i fill the bottle. its pretty cool...i made them to spray almost like a V .
i have a wet kit. yeah i didn't use race gas. i used premium. but next time i go i'll use it. 110 or something? i'm guessing a greenish color is ok though? i'm still searching for nitrous color read spark plugs...so as long as i don't go lean its all good!
i'm loving the nitrous! without the slicks i beat a couple SRT-4's at the track...now with the slicks and clutch they'll have no chance...and that was with a 50 shot!
edit: grey... the fuel solenoid is directly behind the MAF connecter. if you look closely you will see it...kinda hidden a little though!
__________________ Current Mods: 3.5 Swap, EU, Full exhaust
thanks grey! it was actually a fun install. doing it this way takes quite a few hours more than the "two hours" to install....but i like it. i will get pictures of the dual purge the next time i fill the bottle. its pretty cool...i made them to spray almost like a V .
i have a wet kit. yeah i didn't use race gas. i used premium. but next time i go i'll use it. 110 or something? i'm guessing a greenish color is ok though? i'm still searching for nitrous color read spark plugs...so as long as i don't go lean its all good!
i'm loving the nitrous! without the slicks i beat a couple SRT-4's at the track...now with the slicks and clutch they'll have no chance...and that was with a 50 shot!
edit: grey... the fuel solenoid is directly behind the MAF connecter. if you look closely you will see it...kinda hidden a little though!
OK - I see something there... I think. Yes, that is a nice install - I'm still trying to decide where to put my third pair of solenoids.
About plugs - watch the ends of the ground straps - don't worry about the green stuff. The tips on the grounds will start to turn black when they get really hot. At that point, you should straighten the ground straps, cut them off about 1/8 inch higher than the center electrode and bend it over towards the center - side-gap the plugs this way - you will have less metal glowing in the combustion chamber and less chance of preignition or detonation. Copper plugs are cheap.
There's nothing like a good solid hit of nitrous and sticky slicks to pull with. With the 00VI, I bet your top-end pull is a beast.
Most tracks have Sunoco 104 ( blue stuff) - go there with low fuel in the tank and buy 5 gallons at the track and dump that in - it ain't cheap, though. They may also have Sunoco 100 - not as good, but much better than street fuels. I'm pretty sure nothing Sunoco makes ever came from oil. Of course if they don't have any, have Plan B to get some more gas.
aj....it will come out clean man. just take your time and it will be alright. its more frustrating sometimes having to wire things through tight places...but in the end its the only way to go...i can't wait to see your set up!
grey...should i do the cut ground strap with a 75 shot? and ohhhh yes....upper rpm pull is crazy! haha....i couldn't believe how hard it pulled with the 50 shot! i can't wait to use a 75 shot! ...
__________________ Current Mods: 3.5 Swap, EU, Full exhaust
grey...should i do the cut ground strap with a 75 shot? and ohhhh yes....upper rpm pull is crazy! haha....i couldn't believe how hard it pulled with the 50 shot! i can't wait to use a 75 shot! ...
Just watch your plugs - if you see any damage to the tip of the ground strap, then cut them back. The problem is caused by the amount of metal sticking into the combustion chamber while spraying - the metal gets very hot and can glow from the extra heat, creating a glow plug inside each cylinder, causing preignition and possible engine damage. Cutting the ground strap back reduces the risk - and at 75-shot, probably not a problem for you. Everything you do to make more power makes the combustion chamber hotter, so you need to do what you can to reduce the heating.
I have melted all sorts of plugs, and even have an Iridium center-electrode plug that got so hot that the ground strap was completely blown away and the center electrode bent from the heat - and iridium melts somewhere around 6000* F ! Watch your plugs.
daaanngg! thanks crazy dude. yeah i'll definatly be watching the plugs. i figure when i go to the track again i'll try to check the plugs after each run just to make sure everything is in good order.
i haven't been able to check on this...but i'm guessing side gapped plugs really wouldn't hurt N/A performance right? same spark just less metal correct?
__________________ Current Mods: 3.5 Swap, EU, Full exhaust
well unfortunately i don't have any of them. the only gauge i have is the bottle pressure gauge. i spent alot of money on other things that i couldn't afford $300 on a wide band. hopefully i will get one soon though. but if i did have those gauges i would definitely hide them somewhere
__________________ Current Mods: 3.5 Swap, EU, Full exhaust
daaanngg! thanks crazy dude. yeah i'll definatly be watching the plugs. i figure when i go to the track again i'll try to check the plugs after each run just to make sure everything is in good order.
i haven't been able to check on this...but i'm guessing side gapped plugs really wouldn't hurt N/A performance right? same spark just less metal correct?
I've used side-gapped plugs for three years now - have some in the 3.5 now - and never noticed a bit of difference. Starts, drives just like stock. They won't last 40,000 miles without re-gapping them, but that's a small price to pay.
Something else - when spraying above a 50-shot, it's a good idea to gap your plugs down to .035 - at 150-shot gap to .030. At higher RPMs when spraying, you can have random misfires going on and you just go slower when that happens. This is due to the higher combustion pressures - makes it harder to make a spark, so you close the gap to make up for it.
Thanks happy4444. yeah i'm using a WOT switch. i will try to get a picture of it soon. i had this nitrous ready to go on my old USIM but the i had some issues so i did an 00vi install. so then i had to make a new bracket for the 00vi. i'll try to get a pic soon.
yeah i wanted to use this tray for my switches just for stealth. i thought it turned out pretty decent....only thing is that there are 11 wires crammed in this tray so its a little tight. but i labeled them so if there's an issue it should be too bad. i actually made the bracket to hold the switches out of the metal casing of a broken 5 disc dvd player. i just drew out my pattern and cut it out with a dremel.
i circled the switches the color that why are then they light up. i need to adjust the blue one or something because at night at the track it shines REALLY bright right in my eyes! haha....so i have to turn everything on then close the lid....
1.the red one is for the heater.
2.the blue one is for the nitrous activation.
3.the green one is to send power to the push button purge switch. i didn't have to use it but i wanted to push more buttons haha.
__________________ Current Mods: 3.5 Swap, EU, Full exhaust
yeah man! next time i go i'll see if i can get some video! i want yall to see the dual purge!! its freakin awesome! this weekend i'm getting the exhaust cut out mounted. then next week my friend and i are going to get the clutch done at his garage, then i'll mount the slicks and she'll be ready to go! so hopefully here in a couple weeks i'll be ready for some 75 shot of nitrous
__________________ Current Mods: 3.5 Swap, EU, Full exhaust
yeah i never really wanted nitrous. then one day....i don't know...i just changed my mind. haha. its actually pretty cool and safe if you do it right. i just wanted something that would get me going faster while i get prepared for my turbo setup. i got tired of getting beat at the local track...not anymore!!
the 8969was sealed tight. i put it in the engine bay to run the nitrous. i put my 00vi rpm switch in the console right before the stick shift. where did you put your rpm switch?
__________________ Current Mods: 3.5 Swap, EU, Full exhaust
ah i see
i have mine in one of the bins. this is actually an old pic. the switch doesn't even work right now due to some weird issues, i think its the actual unit. i been talking to msd for nearly a month about this and sent my original unit out for repair twice and still doesn't work.
they said there just going to send me a new unit so hopefully it'll come in soon.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 35oZephyR View Post
My350z = General Car Enthusiast Forum (sprinkled in with a little Z douchebaggery)
oh ok sweet! yeah i've see that on another thread. looks sweet bro! now what did you use the window switch for since you don't have nitrous? where did you put your rpm switch? or are you using that 8969 as your rpm switch?
edit: what are all those other switches for?
__________________ Current Mods: 3.5 Swap, EU, Full exhaust
oh ok sweet! yeah i've see that on another thread. looks sweet bro! now what did you use the window switch for since you don't have nitrous? where did you put your rpm switch? or are you using that 8969 as your rpm switch?
edit: what are all those other switches for?
i use it for the 00vi remember
those switches are for variety of stuff.
o/d, max tranny line pressure, manual rad fan control, speed limiter removal, fog lights, and gauge lights.
i'm going to add 2 more switches for the suprastick whenever it gets here but i don't know where else to put them lol
no i don't have a welder...i don't even know how to weld....
but if i knew how to weld i would do it for sure! yeah man! i'll take some pictures. i'm hoping to get the cutout and stock muffler welded on tomorrow then i'll figure out how i want to wire up the electric cutout. i can't wait to hear it
__________________ Current Mods: 3.5 Swap, EU, Full exhaust
well....i got the new stage three clutch in. and mounted up the slicks and the max is good to go!
after about 30 or so miles of driving something happened....at idle is sounds like a freakin diesel. it sounds horrible....it does this when the clutch pedal is out....if i just barely put any pressure on the clutch pedal like when the throw out bearing touches the pressure plate it goes away...i might make a new thread about this but it just started tonight....i'm thinking bad throw- out bearing....but i'm not sure.....any ideas? other than that the clutch is freakin awesome...
__________________ Current Mods: 3.5 Swap, EU, Full exhaust
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