Solenoid stuck open!!!

streetzlegend · 11-09-2007, 01:48 PM

Ok so I plan to go to the 1/4th track this coming Wed. How ever today I was doing my random nitrous check, as soon as I opened the bottle the nitrous was leaking out of the nozzle!!! i take it out of the intake, hit the WOT switch it sprays, when i close it, it closes fine, i do it again and then stays slightly open (leaking) randomly. This is not safe. Has anyone ever rebuilt a solenoid or is it something that has to be sent in to NX, dont they have lifetime warranty on something like that.

I unscrwed the big nut on top, and the top part comes off, but that's just a big magnet thing, i dont think the other part can be opened up

***Aaron92SE*** · 11-09-2007, 03:22 PM

I'm going to have to ask you to calm down!

It's not a big deal. Good thing you caught it before driving.

There is a piece stuck in the teflon seal of your plunger. It happens relatively often if you don't have a nitrous filter.

When you removed the casing and the metal coils/magnet, you have a solid metal rod connected to the base where the inlet and outlet are. You have to unscrew this rod from the base. The best way to do it is to get two nuts, tighten them together, then unscrew the rod that way. DO NOT grab the rod with pliers!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I repeat... DO NOT grab the rod with pliers!!!

This will misshape the rod and cause the plunger inside not to freely move anymore.

Yes, NX has a lifetime warranty. You can send it off to them for free. Just pay shipping. I always keep a spare plunger for this reason so I don't have any down time. You can definitely rebuild your old solenoids, it's very very easy to do. The only part you will be replacing is the plunger, which already has a seal in it and a return spring.

The plunger shouldn't be more than a $20 part. It's only $10 from dynotune, but I don't think it will work on your solenoids. Dyotune copied NOS in most aspects of their kit.

Just contact NX and either get a new plunger or you can just send in your solenoid for service. If you do send it in, send in the fuel solenoid also since it's free.

I'm sure you can find a diagram on NX's website somewhere that shows how to rebuild the solenoid. You'll understand everything I said once you see an exploded view of the solenoid.

You'll be fine. But, the only way you'll be up and running by Wed is if they overnight you a replacement plunger on Monday. It will only take about 5 minutes to rebuild.

streetzlegend · 11-09-2007, 04:59 PM

Damn you have become pretty knowledgeable about nitrous lol. I remember you asking me for nitrous tips lol. now your schooling me haha. Thanx for the info. I have contacted NX and i am going to send it in but after Wed. I am going to borrow someone elses solenoid for Wed. I am going to take it apart to see how it works anyway, i like taking **** apart lol

***Aaron92SE*** · 11-09-2007, 10:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by streetzlegend

Damn you have become pretty knowledgeable about nitrous lol. I remember you asking me for nitrous tips lol. now your schooling me haha. Thanx for the info. I have contacted NX and i am going to send it in but after Wed. I am going to borrow someone elses solenoid for Wed. I am going to take it apart to see how it works anyway, i like taking **** apart lol

Definitely take it apart on your own. It's simple. I can't stand not knowing how something works. The first thing I did when I got the solenoids was take it apart. Then I realized they are just electromagnets that PULL the metal plunger upward which allows nitrous or fuel to flow. Very simple. The only thing that tends to go wrong is when you get debris in the teflon seal in the plunger. This causes nitrous to leak past since the teflon disc doesn't seal properly. I say every solenoid should be rebuilt regardless of it's condition every race season. It's a $10 rebuild kit and takes 5 minutes. When I go with my progressive nitrous shot, I'll probably rebuild them a couple times per year since it's pounding the teflon seal to death. The teflon seal tends to pertrude when that happens and it will actually HARM nitrous flow since it's not allowing the teflon to move completely out of the way when it's activated. I know first hand how soft teflon is since I made my first thermal intake spacer prototype out of it a couple years back. That's why I went with glass based phenolic laminate instead of teflon or nylon. Teflon is just too soft and it misshapes way too fast. But it seals great and has a perfect operating temp range for nitrous and can handle extreme heat of almost 500 degrees.

And I still ask you for advice! I like to hear everyone's experiences with nitrous. I think I asked you a question the other night about spraying out of the hole. It's nice to hear everyone's stories. I wish more people would post about their nitrous ventures! It's fun reading for everyone!