NitrousDiscuss dry, wet, and direct port nitrous setups. How many shots can you handle?
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1999 SE, Pearl White/Black leather - Fully loaded with all factory options except TC (ABS, heated seats, side airbags, etc.) - Supercharged (322 HP / 307 TQ)
Well I tried disconnecting it. It felt like a extra kick whenever it shifted. But when I plugged it back in the tranny shifts very very smooth. This is very weird because everyone knows the 1-2 shift on the altima is always a little harsh.
I have done the DR mod and can definately feel a difference. I used Monster speaker wire for the run to my dash. It is plenty thick and provides very good conductivity.
Now do you guys manually shift your auto???? I noticed I lost .4 in the 1/4 mile when I manually shifted it. In NA I lost .3 by manually shifting the tranny.
Well I tried disconnecting it. It felt like a extra kick whenever it shifted. But when I plugged it back in the tranny shifts very very smooth. This is very weird because everyone knows the 1-2 shift on the altima is always a little harsh.
Really Jim? You have never experimented, huh? I did once with my G-Tech and I think it helped. I did it one night alternating each run (D vs. manually shifting) and then averaged the odd runs and even runs. I would want to perform more tests though before I made a final conclusion but I think shifting helped at least .1s. I would think it would help, in theory. Because don't our transmissions shift themselves around 6,000? If we could hold it to 6,500, I would assume we would get more power longer. At least with a supercharger I feel this way. At low RPMs, the charger can't even be felt. Then as the RPMS build, the pull becomes exponential. Right when you are getting all stoked.....the car shifts and the process starts all over. I figured if I can extend the boost a little longer, it would help. But I am too scared of pushing it into neutral with my foot on the gas. I think I would rather have a program that raises our shift points. So what is your reasoning for not manually shifting?
__________________ Cleaning up the .org's grammar, one member at a time.
1999 SE, Pearl White/Black leather - Fully loaded with all factory options except TC (ABS, heated seats, side airbags, etc.) - Supercharged (322 HP / 307 TQ)
Really Jim? You have never experimented, huh? I did once with my G-Tech and I think it helped. I did it one night alternating each run (D vs. manually shifting) and then averaged the odd runs and even runs. I would want to perform more tests though before I made a final conclusion but I think shifting helped at least .1s. I would think it would help, in theory. Because don't our transmissions shift themselves around 6,000? If we could hold it to 6,500, I would assume we would get more power longer. At least with a supercharger I feel this way. At low RPMs, the charger can't even be felt. Then as the RPMS build, the pull becomes exponential. Right when you are getting all stoked.....the car shifts and the process starts all over. I figured if I can extend the boost a little longer, it would help. But I am too scared of pushing it into neutral with my foot on the gas. I think I would rather have a program that raises our shift points. So what is your reasoning for not manually shifting?
I have done lots of experimenting but never made a run any faster manually shifting, plus there is a margin of error I am not willing to chance.
With nitrous you get more power at low rpm vs a Turbo/SC where it gets better at higher rpm. If I could I would shift it sooner with spray.
You were talking about Altimas and something about getting a smoother shift after plugging it back in. ?? You lost me.
__________________ Cleaning up the .org's grammar, one member at a time.
1999 SE, Pearl White/Black leather - Fully loaded with all factory options except TC (ABS, heated seats, side airbags, etc.) - Supercharged (322 HP / 307 TQ)
You were talking about Altimas and something about getting a smoother shift after plugging it back in. ?? You lost me.
I said my shifts got very smooth after I plugged it back in. I unplugged it and drove around(WOT pulls) and it has a little kick to it when it shifts. But when I plugged it back in my shifts were very very smooth.
That is the whole point of unplugging the DR!!!. You get firmer shifts and thats explains the kick that you feel.
oiiy. I'm not worried about that little kick when It shifts. I'm worried of the fact that when I plugged it back in the tranny shifts very smooth. It never shifted smooth!
why is it you all are installing a wot switch since our cars have them already?? just splice into the white wire on the tps... done.. none of that buying a switch and making a bracket for it.. come on guys I know all of you are not that stupid!!!!!
why is it you all are installing a wot switch since our cars have them already?? just splice into the white wire on the tps... done.. none of that buying a switch and making a bracket for it.. come on guys I know all of you are not that stupid!!!!!
Rudey, a good way to make friends around here is by calling us all stupid. Keep it up and you'll be liked in no time.
Jime, would Rudey's suggestion work?
__________________ Cleaning up the .org's grammar, one member at a time.
1999 SE, Pearl White/Black leather - Fully loaded with all factory options except TC (ABS, heated seats, side airbags, etc.) - Supercharged (322 HP / 307 TQ)
1.
3. Yes, but its not a just a cheap substitute. It basically a free substitute that shifts even faster and saves your transmission even more than a VB Mod.
WOW jime is absolutley right. i have the stage 3 vb and just recently did a rebuild. when it was being done the mechanic wanted to leave out the vb to make sure everything else was running ok. since i really didnt have the time to go back right away i did the wot drop res mod. with the stage 3 vb is ws a constant bang into gear, not bad but sometime annoying even though the shifts were strong. when i did the drop mod the gears shift sweet and smooth when im cruising then at wot it shifts strong and precise no lag no banging, incredible i tell you. instead of paying 100 for the vb swap i might leave it like this and sell my vb.
P.S i got the 745 line pressure code once but hasnt come back yet other than that sweeet.
why is it you all are installing a wot switch since our cars have them already?? just splice into the white wire on the tps... done.. none of that buying a switch and making a bracket for it.. come on guys I know all of you are not that stupid!!!!!
just one question cause i am a little stupid lol. so what your saying is this line supplies the correct amount of power and then shuts off at W.O.T
why is it you all are installing a wot switch since our cars have them already?? just splice into the white wire on the tps... done.. none of that buying a switch and making a bracket for it.. come on guys I know all of you are not that stupid!!!!!
1. Yes our cars do have a WOT switch. One half is N/O (normally open) and the other half is N/C (normally closed).
2. A nitrous switch is N/O and the DR switch is N/C. So in theory we should be able to eliminate our nitrous N/O switch and use it as well for the DR Mod.
3. However there is one little problem and that is the designed function of the Throttle Position Switch (which is part of the Throttle Position Sensor circuit).
4. This is a quote from the FSM. "Consists of a wide open throttle switch and a closed throttle position switch. The wide open throttle position switch sends a signal to the TCM when the throttle is open at least 1/2 of the full throttle position. The closed throttle position switch sends a signal to the TCM when the throttle valve is fully closed."
5. So what does all this mean? It means that the N/O circuit cannot be used for nitrous because it closes at approx 1/2 throttle and you don't want to start spraying at 1/2 throttle.
The N/C circuit cannot be used for the DR Mod either because the circuit is opened as soon as you step on the throttle, which means the DR would disconnect at any throttle opening not WOT as it should be. Notice that the FSM states that "the switch sends a signal to the TCM when the throttle valve is fully closed". The reverse of this is that as soon as the throttle valve is not fully closed the circuit is broken which means it will be disconnected for part throttle shifts which is exactly what we don't want.
6. Sorry akadiablo but you are wrong.
BTW I have an old intake and throttle body which I used to confirm what the FSM stated by using a multimeter to check when the switches opened and closed.
OOOH NOICE. I hope this doesn't screw up my auto tranny if I end up doing this...
i wouldnt think so, i mean this is my third day with it and it feels remarkable. no banging the gears they just switch sharp. i also have the stage 3 vb which i got from maximumtuning. i just did a rebuild and they wanted to test it out first without the vb to make sure the rebuild was good so they left it out. with the VB theres always hard shifting through out the gears and sometimes its annoying i like this way much better. im going to e town on the 25th so i will leave it hooked up like this to see if it works better than the vb if it does it stays and the vb goes.
I'm going to try this when I finish my exhaust and have some time. All I need is that radio shack switch and some wire?
Oh one more question. Can you explain how the hard shifts feel. Like does the whole car jerk? I have no idea what I'm getting into, but this seems neat.
1. Yes our cars do have a WOT switch. One half is N/O (normally open) and the other half is N/C (normally closed).
2. A nitrous switch is N/O and the DR switch is N/C. So in theory we should be able to eliminate our nitrous N/O switch and use it as well for the DR Mod.
3. However there is one little problem and that is the designed function of the Throttle Position Switch (which is part of the Throttle Position Sensor circuit).
4. This is a quote from the FSM. "Consists of a wide open throttle switch and a closed throttle position switch. The wide open throttle position switch sends a signal to the TCM when the throttle is open at least 1/2 of the full throttle position. The closed throttle position switch sends a signal to the TCM when the throttle valve is fully closed."
5. So what does all this mean? It means that the N/O circuit cannot be used for nitrous because it closes at approx 1/2 throttle and you don't want to start spraying at 1/2 throttle.
The N/C circuit cannot be used for the DR Mod either because the circuit is opened as soon as you step on the throttle, which means the DR would disconnect at any throttle opening not WOT as it should be. Notice that the FSM states that "the switch sends a signal to the TCM when the throttle valve is fully closed". The reverse of this is that as soon as the throttle valve is not fully closed the circuit is broken which means it will be disconnected for part throttle shifts which is exactly what we don't want.
6. Sorry akadiablo but you are wrong.
BTW I have an old intake and throttle body which I used to confirm what the FSM stated by using a multimeter to check when the switches opened and closed.
i am not wrong, i am using it now!!!!!!!!! it does not work at half throttle.. I works only at full throttle.. you might have tested a bad tps.......
i am not wrong, i am using it now!!!!!!!!! it does not work at half throttle.. I works only at full throttle.. you might have tested a bad tps.......
Sorry but I tested 2 of them both open just off idle just as the FSM says they should. Which means the circuit will open at any throttle opening. I only tested them to prove what the Factory Service Manual states. ie "The closed throttle position switch sends a signal to the TCM when the throttle valve is fully closed."
This switch is used to send a signal to the TCM when the throttle is fully closed and as soon as it is partially open the circuit breaks which means it will disconnect the drop resistor at any part throttle opening.
Another factor is that the drop resistor circuit is high current which is proven by the size of the resistor and even if the TPS switch did work it would probably burn up the contact points eventually requiring you to replace the TPS switch. It was designed for signal current only not high current.
Regardless how can you be running it now when you have a manual transmission they don't even have a drop resistor?
I'm going to try this when I finish my exhaust and have some time. All I need is that radio shack switch and some wire?
Oh one more question. Can you explain how the hard shifts feel. Like does the whole car jerk? I have no idea what I'm getting into, but this seems neat.
Thanks, Aaron
thats with the vb mod theres always a jerk into next gear. if you use the wot switch with the drop mod there is no jerk what so ever. i got my micro switch from radio shack also they stock them.
Thanks for your help C MAX. So then it's a faster shift?
I have not done it yet but what you can do (what I plan to do) Black Max is simply drive to an empty road where you have pleanty of runway, get out of your car and disconnect the DR manually, get back in the car and do a quick full throttle 0-60 sprint, pull over, plug it back in. That way you know what it feels like before you do the mod or cut any wires. Just make sure you are full throttle as Jime recommends not being at full line pressure at less than wot.
__________________ Cleaning up the .org's grammar, one member at a time.
1999 SE, Pearl White/Black leather - Fully loaded with all factory options except TC (ABS, heated seats, side airbags, etc.) - Supercharged (322 HP / 307 TQ)
Thanks for your help C MAX. So then it's a faster shift?
heck yeh your talking to a guy who has a built level ten racing tranny and stage 3 vb mod. like i said while im waiting to reinstall my vb i tried this mod just to see and i love it.
I have not done it yet but what you can do (what I plan to do) Black Max is simply drive to an empty road where you have pleanty of runway, get out of your car and disconnect the DR manually, get back in the car and do a quick full throttle 0-60 sprint, pull over, plug it back in. That way you know what it feels like before you do the mod or cut any wires. Just make sure you are full throttle as Jime recommends not being at full line pressure at less than wot.
OHHH That's a good idea. Let me try that when I get my exhaust finished...
thats with the vb mod theres always a jerk into next gear. if you use the wot switch with the drop mod there is no jerk what so ever. i got my micro switch from radio shack also they stock them.
C Max, when you say 'micro switch', you mean the normally closed WOT switch, correct? Could you provide a pic and/or Radio Shack model number? Thanks.
C Max, when you say 'micro switch', you mean the normally closed WOT switch, correct? Could you provide a pic and/or Radio Shack model number? Thanks.
the ones at radio shack have spots for both open and closed like the one jimes use. i'll try to post a pick later but if you go to radio shack its only one micro switch they sell. if you look into this post jime posts a pic of his.
What the heck are you talking about? 
That is the whole point of unplugging the DR!!!. You get firmer shifts and thats explains the kick that you feel.
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