phenryiv1's E30 325 Build Thread
05-11-2010, 09:54 AM
#1
Mod her. Ate her.
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iTrader: (19)
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Martinsburg, WV
Posts: 9,827
phenryiv1's E30 325 Build Thread
Don't expect this to be as good as morpheuszero's build.
I bought this car on 07.27.09 and have been working on it ever since. Things started out a bit slowly, and I have made a few mis-steps along the way. I will try to make this as good of a summary as possible to this point, and will move forward from there.
For the first couple of weeks, I owned the car but it remained at the shop where I bought it due to some needed repairs, and due to the fact that driving it to my house posed several problems (crappy flatspotted and dryrotted tires, busted CSB, among others).
Day 1 pics:
The purpose will be to play with as a project or track car (primarily autoX and HPDE) and to drive every now and then on the weekends. My wife may take it to work to cut miles on her Pilot.
As to budget, I have a self-imposed (and martially-enforced) restriction as to funding. No part of this build (other than maintenance costs) can come from "general" funds at our house. Everything has to be financed through scrapping out cars from the junkyard, selling parts, or general craftiness. Even the car was bought that way.
Car has 160K on the clock and is a 5MT. It looks like a 20 year-old car, and has sat for a few months. According to realoem (BMW parts lookup site based on VIN), the car has an LSD diff. However, according to a VIN check, open diff. After getting under the car a few days after buying it, I determined that it was a 2.93LSD (more on that later).
Positives:
• Good price, and a parts car is available. (The seller has a quasi-BMW junkyard.)
• Underside is in really good shape, from a rust perspective. Nothing but very minor surface rust and a bad spot in the battery box.
• Interior is in pretty good shape. Driver's seat has some bolster wear.
• Exterior trim is all black-out.
• Pioneer CD player (who really cares? But it works...)
• Engine sounds GREAT.
• Transmission shifts well.
• Seller threw in some other small stuff (E36 window switches, misc small interior trim parts, etc.)
• It has a nearly-complete tool kit, and I can grab other parts out of the yard to make it complete trunk tool kit.
• Sunroof (manual crank!!!) seems to work properly. I actually wish that it had manual windows, too. (See below.)
• Car has Hella ellipsoids, though one high-beam has a crack.
The bad:
• Exterior has some small rust bubbles but nothing that cannot be fixed easily.
• Needed new CSB.
• Also needs the usual parts/service/maintenance for a car that sat: plugs, rubber suspension bits, brakes (most likely), etc.
• Paint and interior need some elbow grease, for sure.
• Passenger window is not working, but the driver's side is.
• 2 tires were completely flat.
Along with the purchase price, I made a deal with the seller to help me do the CSB install for a reasonable price, since he has a lift and tools to make it happen, plus he has done the install in an E36 many times. In the end, I bought a new-sed DS on eBay and had the spare DS on-hand the day of the install, but my original DS was in good shape. I replaced the CSB and guibo and re-installed the original DS. This was a very easy process. The only bad thing was that Pelican did not send me "everything" related to dropping the exhaust, but no real harm done. (I had told them I needed every bolt and gasket in the complete system, and they left out 2 gaskets. Not horrible.)
As of my initial purchase, my main goals were related to safety and reliability stuff- brakes (pads, rotors, sensors, flush), hoses, timing belt, maybe front struts (the rears are fine). The plan at the time was to go ahead and lower it (though as of that time, I had no ideal what that entailed on an E30), and probably replace some rubber parts while I am at it.
The first order of business was brakes, belts, and hoses. I really needed some wheels and/or tires, just to be able to get it home safely.
In late August, I had a deal lined up for some weaves and street tires, and they arrived intact, though not really sporting the kind of tires I was going to want to take to the track. My first thought was to use the weaves and A/S tires for street use and to have dedicated track wheels, but I decided on a different route (more later). At the time, I could not see putting money into street tires to go on 'caps, but that might have been the easiest route.
In my haste to get it running/driving (and in hopes of getting it driven to my house), I bought and installed the weaves, and sold my stock 'caps to a Honda guy.
I had begun to research building a 2.7L "stroker" motor (what a mis-name that is). I prefer to call it a 327i motor...
As of August, I really wanted to start putting that together. The goal was (and remains) to drive the car in AutoX events next year, and I initially planned to do the timing belt and other associated maintenance this winter, then to possibly do the stroker next winter, but I later decided to go ahead and do the maintenance parts on the 2.7 with an "i" head as opposed to doing everything twice.
As for the bumpers swap, I planned to pull the stock DBs and at least shoot them in black to get rid of the chrome look. While I'd like to go plastic, I think that matching them to the rest of the trim will be better than nothing. In the end, i think I will run stock DBs with a nice coat of black paint...or maybe white. Who knows?
At the end of August, I also ordered all of the "stuff" needed to get the exhaust back together, and ordered new front and rear brake pads (Mintex Reds), wear sensors, and rotor retaining bolts. I had not yet selected rotors.
I bought this car on 07.27.09 and have been working on it ever since. Things started out a bit slowly, and I have made a few mis-steps along the way. I will try to make this as good of a summary as possible to this point, and will move forward from there.
For the first couple of weeks, I owned the car but it remained at the shop where I bought it due to some needed repairs, and due to the fact that driving it to my house posed several problems (crappy flatspotted and dryrotted tires, busted CSB, among others).
Day 1 pics:
The purpose will be to play with as a project or track car (primarily autoX and HPDE) and to drive every now and then on the weekends. My wife may take it to work to cut miles on her Pilot.
As to budget, I have a self-imposed (and martially-enforced) restriction as to funding. No part of this build (other than maintenance costs) can come from "general" funds at our house. Everything has to be financed through scrapping out cars from the junkyard, selling parts, or general craftiness. Even the car was bought that way.
Car has 160K on the clock and is a 5MT. It looks like a 20 year-old car, and has sat for a few months. According to realoem (BMW parts lookup site based on VIN), the car has an LSD diff. However, according to a VIN check, open diff. After getting under the car a few days after buying it, I determined that it was a 2.93LSD (more on that later).
Positives:
• Good price, and a parts car is available. (The seller has a quasi-BMW junkyard.)
• Underside is in really good shape, from a rust perspective. Nothing but very minor surface rust and a bad spot in the battery box.
• Interior is in pretty good shape. Driver's seat has some bolster wear.
• Exterior trim is all black-out.
• Pioneer CD player (who really cares? But it works...)
• Engine sounds GREAT.
• Transmission shifts well.
• Seller threw in some other small stuff (E36 window switches, misc small interior trim parts, etc.)
• It has a nearly-complete tool kit, and I can grab other parts out of the yard to make it complete trunk tool kit.
• Sunroof (manual crank!!!) seems to work properly. I actually wish that it had manual windows, too. (See below.)
• Car has Hella ellipsoids, though one high-beam has a crack.
The bad:
• Exterior has some small rust bubbles but nothing that cannot be fixed easily.
• Needed new CSB.
• Also needs the usual parts/service/maintenance for a car that sat: plugs, rubber suspension bits, brakes (most likely), etc.
• Paint and interior need some elbow grease, for sure.
• Passenger window is not working, but the driver's side is.
• 2 tires were completely flat.
Along with the purchase price, I made a deal with the seller to help me do the CSB install for a reasonable price, since he has a lift and tools to make it happen, plus he has done the install in an E36 many times. In the end, I bought a new-sed DS on eBay and had the spare DS on-hand the day of the install, but my original DS was in good shape. I replaced the CSB and guibo and re-installed the original DS. This was a very easy process. The only bad thing was that Pelican did not send me "everything" related to dropping the exhaust, but no real harm done. (I had told them I needed every bolt and gasket in the complete system, and they left out 2 gaskets. Not horrible.)
As of my initial purchase, my main goals were related to safety and reliability stuff- brakes (pads, rotors, sensors, flush), hoses, timing belt, maybe front struts (the rears are fine). The plan at the time was to go ahead and lower it (though as of that time, I had no ideal what that entailed on an E30), and probably replace some rubber parts while I am at it.
The first order of business was brakes, belts, and hoses. I really needed some wheels and/or tires, just to be able to get it home safely.
In late August, I had a deal lined up for some weaves and street tires, and they arrived intact, though not really sporting the kind of tires I was going to want to take to the track. My first thought was to use the weaves and A/S tires for street use and to have dedicated track wheels, but I decided on a different route (more later). At the time, I could not see putting money into street tires to go on 'caps, but that might have been the easiest route.
In my haste to get it running/driving (and in hopes of getting it driven to my house), I bought and installed the weaves, and sold my stock 'caps to a Honda guy.
I had begun to research building a 2.7L "stroker" motor (what a mis-name that is). I prefer to call it a 327i motor...
As of August, I really wanted to start putting that together. The goal was (and remains) to drive the car in AutoX events next year, and I initially planned to do the timing belt and other associated maintenance this winter, then to possibly do the stroker next winter, but I later decided to go ahead and do the maintenance parts on the 2.7 with an "i" head as opposed to doing everything twice.
As for the bumpers swap, I planned to pull the stock DBs and at least shoot them in black to get rid of the chrome look. While I'd like to go plastic, I think that matching them to the rest of the trim will be better than nothing. In the end, i think I will run stock DBs with a nice coat of black paint...or maybe white. Who knows?
At the end of August, I also ordered all of the "stuff" needed to get the exhaust back together, and ordered new front and rear brake pads (Mintex Reds), wear sensors, and rotor retaining bolts. I had not yet selected rotors.
05-11-2010, 09:55 AM
#2
Mod her. Ate her.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Martinsburg, WV
Posts: 9,827
09.18.09:
FINALLY got the car to my house. I had it towed, because I was too lazy to re-install the exhaust in the lot at the shop and I could not work out a time with the shop owner to use the lift. I finally paid the guy $50 to drive it 20 miles and drop it off at the house. (Best $50 I spent on the car, by the way!) I should have done that a MONTH ago!
I also have a ton of parts and maintenance bits to install. I got brake pads (still need rotors), spark plugs, oil/filter, new battery (old one was toast after sitting), and a stock is spoiler (black). I need to clean it- badly!
Pics, after a quick rinse and wipe-down:
Once the car got to the house, I swapped the battery for a new one (old one was still under warranty, but was pro-rated). I got the warranty into my name and paid to upgrade to a new battery. Unfortunately, there was a brief issue with a parasitic drain on the new battery. After about a week of fighting it, I determined that it was the power antenna motor that was the source of the drain. Disconnected it…problem solved!
I began more research into my 327i build. Being that this is a SuperEta, it was a different ball of wax. Long story short, I determined the following was all that I would need for my upgrade:
325i 173 (or 380) ECU
325i inner valve springs
325i cam
325i intake manifold
325i throttle body
325i throttle position switch
325i intake bellows
325i air flow meter
325i 3.0 fuel pressure regulator
325i vacuum line from brake booster, to bellows, and to throttle body side
09.27.09:
Took her for a drive today in my neighborhood. I re-installed the midsection of the exhaust (took no time with a helper to align the front) and drove it in my neighborhood. This was the first time that I had actually driven it anywhere other the lot where I bought the car.
First driving impressions were good. Throttle response was pretty good and the idle smoothed out after I had driven it for a few minutes. The gauge cluster had no movement on the tach on the first startup, but after driving, it sprang to life. Weird. Not a big deal, since I am swapping in a gauge cluster from a 325i, but odd nonetheless.
09.29.09:
Already needing a timing belt, I decided that since the car won't be on the street or track until spring, I decided that might as well build this right. I have located an "i" donor car and am getting everything that I can from it to do a budget “stroker” build using the S-eta bottom end and pistons and the complete head, TB, IM, 173, cluster, alternator, radiator, etc. from the donor car. I also found a few other nice random parts on the donor (sail panel tweeters, vert FSB). I am basically taking everything forward and on top of the head. I bought some parts that I have no intention of using, and am selling them off to fund the other parts that I need to buy.
FINALLY got the car to my house. I had it towed, because I was too lazy to re-install the exhaust in the lot at the shop and I could not work out a time with the shop owner to use the lift. I finally paid the guy $50 to drive it 20 miles and drop it off at the house. (Best $50 I spent on the car, by the way!) I should have done that a MONTH ago!
I also have a ton of parts and maintenance bits to install. I got brake pads (still need rotors), spark plugs, oil/filter, new battery (old one was toast after sitting), and a stock is spoiler (black). I need to clean it- badly!
Pics, after a quick rinse and wipe-down:
Once the car got to the house, I swapped the battery for a new one (old one was still under warranty, but was pro-rated). I got the warranty into my name and paid to upgrade to a new battery. Unfortunately, there was a brief issue with a parasitic drain on the new battery. After about a week of fighting it, I determined that it was the power antenna motor that was the source of the drain. Disconnected it…problem solved!
I began more research into my 327i build. Being that this is a SuperEta, it was a different ball of wax. Long story short, I determined the following was all that I would need for my upgrade:
325i 173 (or 380) ECU
325i inner valve springs
325i cam
325i intake manifold
325i throttle body
325i throttle position switch
325i intake bellows
325i air flow meter
325i 3.0 fuel pressure regulator
325i vacuum line from brake booster, to bellows, and to throttle body side
09.27.09:
Took her for a drive today in my neighborhood. I re-installed the midsection of the exhaust (took no time with a helper to align the front) and drove it in my neighborhood. This was the first time that I had actually driven it anywhere other the lot where I bought the car.
First driving impressions were good. Throttle response was pretty good and the idle smoothed out after I had driven it for a few minutes. The gauge cluster had no movement on the tach on the first startup, but after driving, it sprang to life. Weird. Not a big deal, since I am swapping in a gauge cluster from a 325i, but odd nonetheless.
09.29.09:
Already needing a timing belt, I decided that since the car won't be on the street or track until spring, I decided that might as well build this right. I have located an "i" donor car and am getting everything that I can from it to do a budget “stroker” build using the S-eta bottom end and pistons and the complete head, TB, IM, 173, cluster, alternator, radiator, etc. from the donor car. I also found a few other nice random parts on the donor (sail panel tweeters, vert FSB). I am basically taking everything forward and on top of the head. I bought some parts that I have no intention of using, and am selling them off to fund the other parts that I need to buy.
Last edited by phenryiv1; 05-11-2010 at 10:54 AM.
05-11-2010, 09:56 AM
#3
Mod her. Ate her.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Martinsburg, WV
Posts: 9,827
10.02.09:
Sourced the majority of my top end rebuild parts today at the junk yard. I grabbed everything from the head on up and forward:
325i 153 DME/ECU
325i head, including:
325i inner valve springs
325i cam
325i intake manifold
325i throttle body
325i throttle position switch (should be in there somewhere)
325i intake bellows
325i air flow meter
325i 3.0 fuel pressure regulator (Should be in there somewhere)
325i vacuum line from brake booster, to bellows, and to throttle body
325i Gauge Cluster (still have to go back to pick it up)
325i Alternator
325i radiator
325i airbox
A lot of other random stuff- hoses, lines, what looks like a full motronic 1.1/1.3 harness, coolant tank, plug wire set...
Like I said, I bought some parts that I have no intention of using, and am selling them off to fund the other parts that I need to buy and to offset previous costs.
Main parts:
Sourced the majority of my top end rebuild parts today at the junk yard. I grabbed everything from the head on up and forward:
325i 153 DME/ECU
325i head, including:
325i inner valve springs
325i cam
325i intake manifold
325i throttle body
325i throttle position switch (should be in there somewhere)
325i intake bellows
325i air flow meter
325i 3.0 fuel pressure regulator (Should be in there somewhere)
325i vacuum line from brake booster, to bellows, and to throttle body
325i Gauge Cluster (still have to go back to pick it up)
325i Alternator
325i radiator
325i airbox
A lot of other random stuff- hoses, lines, what looks like a full motronic 1.1/1.3 harness, coolant tank, plug wire set...
Like I said, I bought some parts that I have no intention of using, and am selling them off to fund the other parts that I need to buy and to offset previous costs.
Main parts:
05-11-2010, 09:56 AM
#4
Mod her. Ate her.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Martinsburg, WV
Posts: 9,827
10.10.09:
Purchased a new shifter assembly on eBay. This came from a Z3 M (don’t know which sub-model). Cheaper than just the shifter from a regular vendor, and all of the bushings are tight tight tight.
Look how dirty the interior was as I started disassembly:
That Great Neck 24V impact wrench is a great deal at Pep Boys, if you get it on sale for $59 like I did.
Swapped in a passenger sport seat to the driver's side, just for now. I also have the driver's side frame and will work on swapping the controls to the proper side, but I don't need much in the way of adjustments. I have it where I want it, which is good enough for now. I bought both sides for dirt cheap and parted out the driver’s side (due to the cracked frame) and was left with a decent seat (the ‘vert passenger Sport seat) on the driver’s side, and a profit, to boot.
Purchased a new shifter assembly on eBay. This came from a Z3 M (don’t know which sub-model). Cheaper than just the shifter from a regular vendor, and all of the bushings are tight tight tight.
Look how dirty the interior was as I started disassembly:
That Great Neck 24V impact wrench is a great deal at Pep Boys, if you get it on sale for $59 like I did.
Swapped in a passenger sport seat to the driver's side, just for now. I also have the driver's side frame and will work on swapping the controls to the proper side, but I don't need much in the way of adjustments. I have it where I want it, which is good enough for now. I bought both sides for dirt cheap and parted out the driver’s side (due to the cracked frame) and was left with a decent seat (the ‘vert passenger Sport seat) on the driver’s side, and a profit, to boot.
Last edited by phenryiv1; 05-11-2010 at 10:55 AM.
05-11-2010, 09:57 AM
#5
Mod her. Ate her.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Martinsburg, WV
Posts: 9,827
10.12.09:
Another successful JY run:
Eclipse 5.25s sourced from a clunkered Jeep Cherokee, E34 leather e-brake handle and boot, and a 380 DME ( since my "build package" did not come with a 173, like I had hoped) for my build. They let me keep the 153 as a spare, but I sold it.
11.13.09:
Now, the real fun begins…
Bought some lightly used 50406 H&R Sport springs to get started on the suspension rebuild.
Bought some Brembo and PBR rotors (from brakeswap.com - GREAT vendor!) and have the Mintex Red pads for the street.
Rotors (Brembo F, PBR R):
I also found some light 15s for track wheels, and awaiting paypal payment info to pay for them.
Probably going with Falken Azenis RT-615s in 205/50/15 for tires.
Another successful JY run:
Eclipse 5.25s sourced from a clunkered Jeep Cherokee, E34 leather e-brake handle and boot, and a 380 DME ( since my "build package" did not come with a 173, like I had hoped) for my build. They let me keep the 153 as a spare, but I sold it.
11.13.09:
Now, the real fun begins…
Bought some lightly used 50406 H&R Sport springs to get started on the suspension rebuild.
Bought some Brembo and PBR rotors (from brakeswap.com - GREAT vendor!) and have the Mintex Red pads for the street.
Rotors (Brembo F, PBR R):
I also found some light 15s for track wheels, and awaiting paypal payment info to pay for them.
Probably going with Falken Azenis RT-615s in 205/50/15 for tires.
Last edited by phenryiv1; 05-11-2010 at 10:56 AM.
05-11-2010, 09:57 AM
#6
Mod her. Ate her.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Martinsburg, WV
Posts: 9,827
11.16.09:
Score...H&Rs arrived. Used, but look to be in like-new condition.
Found a Euro 320i in my local JY. Let the EDM 'leet-ness commence! In addition to pulling some parts for myself, I am pulling the euro parts from the 320i and will be selling them at a small profit to fund other parts that I need. Also, by purchasing parts in bulk at my junk yard, I get a better price for the parts that I need (volume/cash discount), AND I help out other owners. Win/Win.
I was approached about swapping my 2.93 LSD for a 3.73 LSD. After negotiating via email for a couple of days, we struck a deal where I pay shipping both ways and the guy with the 3.73 sends me his LSD (with new seals and a fresh coat of POR-15 paint) and I send him my 2.93. Since my car is not operable, I was able to pull mine first and send it to him, and he will swap his out and ship it back to me with a prepaid FedEx label.
On the 16th, I finally pulled my 2.93LSD and shipped it off in phase 1 of a swap for a 3.73LSD. I built a pimp wooden box, overlaid it with cardboard, and off it went.
(3.73 LSD arrived 12.03.09):
As for wheel progress, I had debated getting good tires for my weaves, but I was able to sell them for a really good price (what I paid for them, including shipping), so I sold them and sent payment for the 15” wheels mentioned above. They are basically Hartage reps...15 x 6.5.
To have rollers between now and when I get tires (still looking at the RT-615s and possibly Star Specs), I grabbed a set of 14 x 5.5" BMW steelies off of the 320 to use as rollers. Tires will come closer to the spring. No need to order them now just to have them sit in cold weather all winter.
Also, ordered some used 19# injectors. The ones that I got with my swap package had 2 busted tips, so I needed new ones, and I decided to upgrade now.
The nice thing about how I managed to get things arranged in my garage/driveway is that I can actually push the E30 in and out of the garage to work on it in bad weather while still keeping my daily driver in the garage for my pre-dawn commute.
11.21.09:
15" Hartage reps arrived. They looked better in pics, but the seller did not mislead me or anything. Pics:
Score...H&Rs arrived. Used, but look to be in like-new condition.
Found a Euro 320i in my local JY. Let the EDM 'leet-ness commence! In addition to pulling some parts for myself, I am pulling the euro parts from the 320i and will be selling them at a small profit to fund other parts that I need. Also, by purchasing parts in bulk at my junk yard, I get a better price for the parts that I need (volume/cash discount), AND I help out other owners. Win/Win.
I was approached about swapping my 2.93 LSD for a 3.73 LSD. After negotiating via email for a couple of days, we struck a deal where I pay shipping both ways and the guy with the 3.73 sends me his LSD (with new seals and a fresh coat of POR-15 paint) and I send him my 2.93. Since my car is not operable, I was able to pull mine first and send it to him, and he will swap his out and ship it back to me with a prepaid FedEx label.
On the 16th, I finally pulled my 2.93LSD and shipped it off in phase 1 of a swap for a 3.73LSD. I built a pimp wooden box, overlaid it with cardboard, and off it went.
(3.73 LSD arrived 12.03.09):
As for wheel progress, I had debated getting good tires for my weaves, but I was able to sell them for a really good price (what I paid for them, including shipping), so I sold them and sent payment for the 15” wheels mentioned above. They are basically Hartage reps...15 x 6.5.
To have rollers between now and when I get tires (still looking at the RT-615s and possibly Star Specs), I grabbed a set of 14 x 5.5" BMW steelies off of the 320 to use as rollers. Tires will come closer to the spring. No need to order them now just to have them sit in cold weather all winter.
Also, ordered some used 19# injectors. The ones that I got with my swap package had 2 busted tips, so I needed new ones, and I decided to upgrade now.
The nice thing about how I managed to get things arranged in my garage/driveway is that I can actually push the E30 in and out of the garage to work on it in bad weather while still keeping my daily driver in the garage for my pre-dawn commute.
11.21.09:
15" Hartage reps arrived. They looked better in pics, but the seller did not mislead me or anything. Pics:
Last edited by phenryiv1; 05-11-2010 at 10:56 AM.
05-11-2010, 09:58 AM
#7
Mod her. Ate her.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Martinsburg, WV
Posts: 9,827
11.22.09:
Ordered a set of Bilstein Sport struts and E46 M3 Cabrio rear upper strut mounts from bimmerparts.com. Great prices on them, and they should pair up perfectly with the H&R Sports.
Bilstein Sports and E46 M3 Vert RSMs:
I also ordered a stainless steel rear strut tower brace/bar. This may or may not do much, but for the price, it looks cool and gives me a more solid upper mounting surface for the rear struts.
(Received rear strut tower bar 12.05.09)
I took an hour or so and sanded/wire-wheeled the spare valve cover and the “I” intake manifold from the M20B25 that I snagged at the JY. After prep, I painted them both, as well as a spare set of exhaust manifolds that I had:
Paint looks absolutely stellar this morning. In those pics, the paint was still a bit wet. As of last night, I was thinking about topcoating the VC and IM with a semigloss or even gloss black. After looking at the flat finish 12 hours later, I love it.
Paint is VHT 1300* exhaust paint. Their engine paint goes to 500, but I wanted to paint the exhaust manifolds, so I used the higher-temp stuff.
Ordered a set of Bilstein Sport struts and E46 M3 Cabrio rear upper strut mounts from bimmerparts.com. Great prices on them, and they should pair up perfectly with the H&R Sports.
Bilstein Sports and E46 M3 Vert RSMs:
I also ordered a stainless steel rear strut tower brace/bar. This may or may not do much, but for the price, it looks cool and gives me a more solid upper mounting surface for the rear struts.
(Received rear strut tower bar 12.05.09)
I took an hour or so and sanded/wire-wheeled the spare valve cover and the “I” intake manifold from the M20B25 that I snagged at the JY. After prep, I painted them both, as well as a spare set of exhaust manifolds that I had:
Paint looks absolutely stellar this morning. In those pics, the paint was still a bit wet. As of last night, I was thinking about topcoating the VC and IM with a semigloss or even gloss black. After looking at the flat finish 12 hours later, I love it.
Paint is VHT 1300* exhaust paint. Their engine paint goes to 500, but I wanted to paint the exhaust manifolds, so I used the higher-temp stuff.
Last edited by phenryiv1; 05-11-2010 at 10:57 AM.
05-11-2010, 09:58 AM
#8
Mod her. Ate her.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Martinsburg, WV
Posts: 9,827
11.24.09:
I have a baby on the way in 3 weeks, and a 3 year-old, so time and money are short, plus that red pickup (1988 Jeep Comanche)that is in the background of some of the pics is another project of mine, though it is almost complete. It belonged to my grandfather (who bought it new in 1987), who passed away last year. I am restoring and keeping it running after some neglect.
I have really made a lot of progress collecting parts, but not a lot of progress in actually getting them installed. I hope to get the head swap/327i build completed first, with the timing belt, accessory belts, water pump, thermostat, etc. all done at the same time. I have all of the parts, but not the time to do the work.
The suspension and brake work should be pretty easy, as I have done all of that countless times. I am sourcing a spare set of calipers to rebuild, and a spare set of front strut housings to refinish for the Bilstein install. I pick them up this weekend.
Like I said- I am GREAT at collecting parts...
11.28.09:
E28 MTech spoiler:
Local JY has an M-Tech I wheel in so-so condition that they are practically giving me. I will probably get it re-covered and see which wheel I like better.
12.03.09:
Some actual progress:
Installed my "i" cluster and a 3-spoke leather steering wheel:
Received my set of 205/50/15 Falken Azenis RT-615 tires. For $230 shipped, I could not beat them.
Nothing major, but it is SOMETHING!
I also ordered new front upper strut mounts and a Bentley Repair Manual.
I have a baby on the way in 3 weeks, and a 3 year-old, so time and money are short, plus that red pickup (1988 Jeep Comanche)that is in the background of some of the pics is another project of mine, though it is almost complete. It belonged to my grandfather (who bought it new in 1987), who passed away last year. I am restoring and keeping it running after some neglect.
I have really made a lot of progress collecting parts, but not a lot of progress in actually getting them installed. I hope to get the head swap/327i build completed first, with the timing belt, accessory belts, water pump, thermostat, etc. all done at the same time. I have all of the parts, but not the time to do the work.
The suspension and brake work should be pretty easy, as I have done all of that countless times. I am sourcing a spare set of calipers to rebuild, and a spare set of front strut housings to refinish for the Bilstein install. I pick them up this weekend.
Like I said- I am GREAT at collecting parts...
11.28.09:
E28 MTech spoiler:
Local JY has an M-Tech I wheel in so-so condition that they are practically giving me. I will probably get it re-covered and see which wheel I like better.
12.03.09:
Some actual progress:
Installed my "i" cluster and a 3-spoke leather steering wheel:
Received my set of 205/50/15 Falken Azenis RT-615 tires. For $230 shipped, I could not beat them.
Nothing major, but it is SOMETHING!
I also ordered new front upper strut mounts and a Bentley Repair Manual.
Last edited by phenryiv1; 05-11-2010 at 10:58 AM.
05-11-2010, 09:58 AM
#9
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Thread Starter
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Martinsburg, WV
Posts: 9,827
12.05.09:
Got snow and the car was outside, so no progress. But I will post a pic of the car in the snow, rolling like a pimp on steelies.
12.07.09:
Bentley arrived(!!!).
Disassembled one of the spare front struts, removed the calipers from the spare housings and am about to disassemble them for paint and rebuilding.
Also, sourced the M-Tech wheel and a spare set of fuel injectors (stock 325i units), new cap, new rotor, new button.
Got snow and the car was outside, so no progress. But I will post a pic of the car in the snow, rolling like a pimp on steelies.
12.07.09:
Bentley arrived(!!!).
Disassembled one of the spare front struts, removed the calipers from the spare housings and am about to disassemble them for paint and rebuilding.
Also, sourced the M-Tech wheel and a spare set of fuel injectors (stock 325i units), new cap, new rotor, new button.
Last edited by phenryiv1; 05-11-2010 at 10:59 AM.
05-11-2010, 09:59 AM
#10
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Thread Starter
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Martinsburg, WV
Posts: 9,827
12.09.09:
Disassembled the other strut housing. Now I need to prep them for install of the Bilstein Sports, H&R Sports, and the reinstallation of the brakes.
Need to strip, paint, and rebuild the calipers, paint the rotor hats, and get some pars on the car.
Pics:
New brake lines, rebuild kits, and front upper strut mounts arrived:
http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k2...Parts004-1.jpg
Ended up going a different route with the brakes. More on that later.
Disassembled the other strut housing. Now I need to prep them for install of the Bilstein Sports, H&R Sports, and the reinstallation of the brakes.
Need to strip, paint, and rebuild the calipers, paint the rotor hats, and get some pars on the car.
Pics:
New brake lines, rebuild kits, and front upper strut mounts arrived:
http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k2...Parts004-1.jpg
Ended up going a different route with the brakes. More on that later.
05-11-2010, 09:59 AM
#11
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Thread Starter
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Martinsburg, WV
Posts: 9,827
12.13.09:
A little more progress...
Got the front housings cleaned up a bit and painted the brake shields (no real reason- just bored).
Then I installed my front Bilstein Sport inserts and the H&R Sport springs with my new front mounts.
I even used the real Bilstein wrench to tighten them down. A quick call to their HQ and they sent the ring to me, free of charge.
PIMP...
Also, cleaned off the spare brake calipers for an impending rebuild.
http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k2...Parts008-1.jpg
12.18.09:
Latest modification:
8 lb. of weight addition, born 7:51 AM on 12.17.09.
May slow other progress slightly...but more than worth it!
12.28.09:
Went to pick up a few parts at the JY and they asked me if I wanted a spare rear subframe, open diff, rear trailing arms, rear calipers, etc. I asked the price, and they told me $5 for everything. Yes, $5...1, 2, 3, 4, 5 dollars.
Obviously, I took it.
I also grabbed a second (third, actually- if you count the set on the car) set of Girling front calipers, and a set of tan 'vert front sport seats in meh condition. The foam is good, but the leather has really seen better days. I may try to get one re-covered in cloth to run on the driver's side and move the black leather seat that I have to the passenger side where it belongs.
I plan to strip the subframe, paint it, and install new bushings, then install it with the 3.73S differential that is awaiting install. With new rear brake lines in the subframe, I should be in good shape as far as rear suspension and drivetrain is concerned. That will allow me to focus on the front of the car, knowing that the back end is solid.
01.04.10:
Update-
When I went begin stripping the "free" subframe, I figured out why it was so cheap...I was removing components to prep it and I realized that they (the junk yard) had simply used a reciprocating saw to cut the subframe at the subframe bushings, as opposed to removing the bolts. So much for having the spare one stripped and refurbished for a swap-in install...
I do still have a spare diff (4.10 open), and I did get a good spare set of rear trailing arms. I can use them and have the bushings replaced, which should save some downtime.
I still got it all for $5, which is less than the scrap value.
01.07.10:
At some point recently, I ordered some parts…subframe bushings, rear trailing arm bushings, UUC stainless steel brake lines, and I had bought a set of white side mirrors.
My UUC S/S lines arrived, as did the set of white mirrors. I just did not like the look of the black mirrors, even on a track car.
I also sent a spare set of calipers off for a powdercoat and rebuild. My RTAB and subframe bushings are scheduled to arrive tomorrow.
02.16.10:
After delays due to massive snow, my rebuilt/powdercoated calipers are now on the way back to me.
I have done NOTHING on the car recently, due to the snow.
There is an E30 in there, somewhere.
A little more progress...
Got the front housings cleaned up a bit and painted the brake shields (no real reason- just bored).
Then I installed my front Bilstein Sport inserts and the H&R Sport springs with my new front mounts.
I even used the real Bilstein wrench to tighten them down. A quick call to their HQ and they sent the ring to me, free of charge.
PIMP...
Also, cleaned off the spare brake calipers for an impending rebuild.
http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k2...Parts008-1.jpg
12.18.09:
Latest modification:
8 lb. of weight addition, born 7:51 AM on 12.17.09.
May slow other progress slightly...but more than worth it!
12.28.09:
Went to pick up a few parts at the JY and they asked me if I wanted a spare rear subframe, open diff, rear trailing arms, rear calipers, etc. I asked the price, and they told me $5 for everything. Yes, $5...1, 2, 3, 4, 5 dollars.
Obviously, I took it.
I also grabbed a second (third, actually- if you count the set on the car) set of Girling front calipers, and a set of tan 'vert front sport seats in meh condition. The foam is good, but the leather has really seen better days. I may try to get one re-covered in cloth to run on the driver's side and move the black leather seat that I have to the passenger side where it belongs.
I plan to strip the subframe, paint it, and install new bushings, then install it with the 3.73S differential that is awaiting install. With new rear brake lines in the subframe, I should be in good shape as far as rear suspension and drivetrain is concerned. That will allow me to focus on the front of the car, knowing that the back end is solid.
01.04.10:
Update-
When I went begin stripping the "free" subframe, I figured out why it was so cheap...I was removing components to prep it and I realized that they (the junk yard) had simply used a reciprocating saw to cut the subframe at the subframe bushings, as opposed to removing the bolts. So much for having the spare one stripped and refurbished for a swap-in install...
I do still have a spare diff (4.10 open), and I did get a good spare set of rear trailing arms. I can use them and have the bushings replaced, which should save some downtime.
I still got it all for $5, which is less than the scrap value.
01.07.10:
At some point recently, I ordered some parts…subframe bushings, rear trailing arm bushings, UUC stainless steel brake lines, and I had bought a set of white side mirrors.
My UUC S/S lines arrived, as did the set of white mirrors. I just did not like the look of the black mirrors, even on a track car.
I also sent a spare set of calipers off for a powdercoat and rebuild. My RTAB and subframe bushings are scheduled to arrive tomorrow.
02.16.10:
After delays due to massive snow, my rebuilt/powdercoated calipers are now on the way back to me.
I have done NOTHING on the car recently, due to the snow.
There is an E30 in there, somewhere.
Last edited by phenryiv1; 05-11-2010 at 11:00 AM.
05-11-2010, 10:00 AM
#12
Mod her. Ate her.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Martinsburg, WV
Posts: 9,827
02.22.10:
Rebuilt/powdercoated calipers arrived:
03.25.10:
Minor (but noteworthy) progress:
After sitting out all winter and being victimized by the weather, I managed to get her pushed into the garage last night to begin all of the needed work. At least now I have the proper conditions to make some real progress.
High on the list are the subframe and RTA bushings, install the new-to-me 3.73S differential, install the suspension (already assembled, but not on the car), install the brakes and new brake lines, and get the timing belt service done while I do the 327i head swap.
03.29.10:
More parts:
Yellow Bosch headlights from an MB old wagon. Glass in awesome shape. H3 bulbs. I bought them to replace my cracked high beams in my US ellipsoid setup, but later found out that they won’t work in the ellipsoid brackets. They are fine in the sealed beam housings, so I sold them to cover other costs..
http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k2...Parts001-2.jpg
Grabbed a full stock exhaust locally off of CL. $75 with a good muffler, usable cat, and an O2 sensor still in place. Minor surface rust. My current muffler is completely toast.
I later sold the cat section to a recycler for $90. Money was needed for unexpected suspension parts (more later).
04.02.10:
Finally picked up some white bumpers:
Rebuilt/powdercoated calipers arrived:
03.25.10:
Minor (but noteworthy) progress:
After sitting out all winter and being victimized by the weather, I managed to get her pushed into the garage last night to begin all of the needed work. At least now I have the proper conditions to make some real progress.
High on the list are the subframe and RTA bushings, install the new-to-me 3.73S differential, install the suspension (already assembled, but not on the car), install the brakes and new brake lines, and get the timing belt service done while I do the 327i head swap.
03.29.10:
More parts:
Yellow Bosch headlights from an MB old wagon. Glass in awesome shape. H3 bulbs. I bought them to replace my cracked high beams in my US ellipsoid setup, but later found out that they won’t work in the ellipsoid brackets. They are fine in the sealed beam housings, so I sold them to cover other costs..
http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k2...Parts001-2.jpg
Grabbed a full stock exhaust locally off of CL. $75 with a good muffler, usable cat, and an O2 sensor still in place. Minor surface rust. My current muffler is completely toast.
I later sold the cat section to a recycler for $90. Money was needed for unexpected suspension parts (more later).
04.02.10:
Finally picked up some white bumpers:
Last edited by phenryiv1; 05-11-2010 at 11:00 AM.
05-11-2010, 10:00 AM
#13
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Thread Starter
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Martinsburg, WV
Posts: 9,827
04.12.10:
So I scrapped the idea of the yellow MB lights in the stock ellip buckets, but I did grab a couple more toys this weekend. I had bought a generic (I think) FTSB from another member, and it arrived this week. Then I went to grab some other parts from the JY and the guy who pulled my parts threw in (no charge...nice!) this BavAuto FSTB that he saw on the car that donated my spare wheels.
Since tax day is this Thursday, I should finally have some time to actually work on the car. I pulled the battery to assess the condition of the battery box:
Not great, but could be much worse. Some time with a wire wheel plus a little sheet metal, a riveter, seam sealer, fiberglass cloth, and POR-15 and this will be a complete non-issue.
I also grabbed a set of spare wheels and tires for around town use. Tires are not too bad, but I only got 3 BBS weaves and a bottlecap. I need to grab another 2 caps and sell them as a set, and to buy one more weave to complete this set. Not bad for what I paid. I will probably keep the centers black and paint the main part of the wheels white to match the car.
So I scrapped the idea of the yellow MB lights in the stock ellip buckets, but I did grab a couple more toys this weekend. I had bought a generic (I think) FTSB from another member, and it arrived this week. Then I went to grab some other parts from the JY and the guy who pulled my parts threw in (no charge...nice!) this BavAuto FSTB that he saw on the car that donated my spare wheels.
Since tax day is this Thursday, I should finally have some time to actually work on the car. I pulled the battery to assess the condition of the battery box:
Not great, but could be much worse. Some time with a wire wheel plus a little sheet metal, a riveter, seam sealer, fiberglass cloth, and POR-15 and this will be a complete non-issue.
I also grabbed a set of spare wheels and tires for around town use. Tires are not too bad, but I only got 3 BBS weaves and a bottlecap. I need to grab another 2 caps and sell them as a set, and to buy one more weave to complete this set. Not bad for what I paid. I will probably keep the centers black and paint the main part of the wheels white to match the car.
Last edited by phenryiv1; 05-11-2010 at 11:01 AM.
05-11-2010, 10:01 AM
#14
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Thread Starter
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Martinsburg, WV
Posts: 9,827
04.15.10:
More progress on 04.15.
Rear seat pulled to remove subframe and sound deadening:
Exhaust rear section removed for subframe and brake work. To be replaced with a new muffler section:
Wheels off and car up on jackstands for suspension install, new wheels, new brakes (lines, rebuilt/painted calipers, pads, rotors), rear bushings, etc.
More progress on 04.15.
Rear seat pulled to remove subframe and sound deadening:
Exhaust rear section removed for subframe and brake work. To be replaced with a new muffler section:
Wheels off and car up on jackstands for suspension install, new wheels, new brakes (lines, rebuilt/painted calipers, pads, rotors), rear bushings, etc.
Last edited by phenryiv1; 05-11-2010 at 11:02 AM.
05-11-2010, 10:01 AM
#15
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Thread Starter
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Martinsburg, WV
Posts: 9,827
04.20.10:
Well, today was interesting. Two steps forward and one step back.
I managed to strip the rear brakes (the retainer screws were not even tight!!) and to completely remove the front strut assemblies. The rears were cake, but the front was another story.
First, the rotor screws in the front were locked up, do I had to remove the rotors and drill the screws. Not a big deal, but a pain.
Next, the tie rod ends were not hard to seperate from the strut housing, but one of the ends spun with the nut, so I had to lock it down with vice grips to remove the nut. In popping them out, I had to pretty much squash the grease fitting, so I may need need tie rod ends- which were not in the budget at this time.
Next were the control arms. They were a real b!tch. It took over an hour of pounding on the tie rod puller, and in the end, I smashed the grease fittings on those as well- ALSO not in the budget at this time. It took 5 good whacks with a real sledge to break them loose. I was trying to be careful with a hand sledge, but after a while, I gave up and just bashed the hell out of the end of the puller.
Mission accomplished, but at what cost? I had planned to replace the CAs, CABs, and TRs in a few weeks, since I have my hands full with all of the rear end bushings. Now it may be up on stands for a while longer than I had planned, as I just don't have the $$$ to do all of that right now.
I was hoping to have her up and running for an event on 05.15, but that is looking doubtful.
I also removed my stock front sway to swap in a larger (21mm) 'vert sway bar.
Take-home message:
So instead of having the time to do the subframe bushings and RTABs, my primary objective will be to get the CAs and CABs replaced and to get ne tie rods installed. ~$200-250 I was not planning to spend at this time.
Well, today was interesting. Two steps forward and one step back.
I managed to strip the rear brakes (the retainer screws were not even tight!!) and to completely remove the front strut assemblies. The rears were cake, but the front was another story.
First, the rotor screws in the front were locked up, do I had to remove the rotors and drill the screws. Not a big deal, but a pain.
Next, the tie rod ends were not hard to seperate from the strut housing, but one of the ends spun with the nut, so I had to lock it down with vice grips to remove the nut. In popping them out, I had to pretty much squash the grease fitting, so I may need need tie rod ends- which were not in the budget at this time.
Next were the control arms. They were a real b!tch. It took over an hour of pounding on the tie rod puller, and in the end, I smashed the grease fittings on those as well- ALSO not in the budget at this time. It took 5 good whacks with a real sledge to break them loose. I was trying to be careful with a hand sledge, but after a while, I gave up and just bashed the hell out of the end of the puller.
Mission accomplished, but at what cost? I had planned to replace the CAs, CABs, and TRs in a few weeks, since I have my hands full with all of the rear end bushings. Now it may be up on stands for a while longer than I had planned, as I just don't have the $$$ to do all of that right now.
I was hoping to have her up and running for an event on 05.15, but that is looking doubtful.
I also removed my stock front sway to swap in a larger (21mm) 'vert sway bar.
Take-home message:
So instead of having the time to do the subframe bushings and RTABs, my primary objective will be to get the CAs and CABs replaced and to get ne tie rods installed. ~$200-250 I was not planning to spend at this time.
Last edited by phenryiv1; 05-11-2010 at 11:04 AM.
05-11-2010, 10:01 AM
#16
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Thread Starter
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Martinsburg, WV
Posts: 9,827
04.25.10:
Bumper mounts arrived (had to buy them from someone other than who I bought the bumpers from, due to him flaking on me):
Painted my rotor hats (unnecessary, I know, but I had nothing else to do):
Painted my grill and kidneys:
Grill is satain black (John Deere Blitz Black) and kidneys are gloss black.
I also ordered new control arms, control arm bushings, tie rods, and front sway bar mounts. It was not in the budget, but it needed to be done before I put the car back together.
Bumper mounts arrived (had to buy them from someone other than who I bought the bumpers from, due to him flaking on me):
Painted my rotor hats (unnecessary, I know, but I had nothing else to do):
Painted my grill and kidneys:
Grill is satain black (John Deere Blitz Black) and kidneys are gloss black.
I also ordered new control arms, control arm bushings, tie rods, and front sway bar mounts. It was not in the budget, but it needed to be done before I put the car back together.
Last edited by phenryiv1; 05-11-2010 at 11:05 AM.
05-11-2010, 10:01 AM
#17
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Thread Starter
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Martinsburg, WV
Posts: 9,827
04.26.10:
Got some things installed...
Rear strut tower bar, Bilstein rear struts (on new M3 cabrio RSMs), and H&R Sport rear springs.
Also re-assembled my rebuilt/powdercoated rear brakes.
Got some things installed...
Rear strut tower bar, Bilstein rear struts (on new M3 cabrio RSMs), and H&R Sport rear springs.
Also re-assembled my rebuilt/powdercoated rear brakes.
Last edited by phenryiv1; 05-11-2010 at 11:05 AM.
05-11-2010, 10:02 AM
#18
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Thread Starter
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Martinsburg, WV
Posts: 9,827
04.30.10:
Made some more minor progress last night. Rear UUC stainless outer rear lines installed, powdercoated brake calipers installed, and PBR rear rotors installed.
Still have to install the rear pads and wear sensors, but that will be a 10-minute process.
After installing the brakes, I test-fit my 15 x 6.5 25ET Hartage reps. Offset does not look like 25mm from the front, but it measures out to be 25MM (or darn close) when compared to a stock basketweave. The offset was not clearly marked on the wheels, but there was a 25 on each wheel (no "ET" stamp beside it) near the size stamping.
Now to get tires mounted, CAs, CABs, and railing arms installed...and front calipers/lines/rotors/pads, and...
Made some more minor progress last night. Rear UUC stainless outer rear lines installed, powdercoated brake calipers installed, and PBR rear rotors installed.
Still have to install the rear pads and wear sensors, but that will be a 10-minute process.
After installing the brakes, I test-fit my 15 x 6.5 25ET Hartage reps. Offset does not look like 25mm from the front, but it measures out to be 25MM (or darn close) when compared to a stock basketweave. The offset was not clearly marked on the wheels, but there was a 25 on each wheel (no "ET" stamp beside it) near the size stamping.
Now to get tires mounted, CAs, CABs, and railing arms installed...and front calipers/lines/rotors/pads, and...
Last edited by phenryiv1; 05-11-2010 at 11:05 AM.
05-11-2010, 10:02 AM
#19
Mod her. Ate her.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Martinsburg, WV
Posts: 9,827
05.02.10:
Control arms, poly CABs, and new trailing arms installed. I hacksawed and hammered the old CABs from the mounts and pressed in the new ones by hand.
After removing the tie rods and control arms, it was a good thing that they were done. I might have been able to run in autoX or a couple of track days (MAX), but both of the inner ball joints on the CAs were less tight than I would have liked, and the boots were in lousy shape. One tie rod inner joint was scary-loose as well.
As for the 327i build, everything came out easily, but nothing was installed (more on that later).
Head, stripped down:
http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k2...adStripped.jpg
Control arms, poly CABs, and new trailing arms installed. I hacksawed and hammered the old CABs from the mounts and pressed in the new ones by hand.
After removing the tie rods and control arms, it was a good thing that they were done. I might have been able to run in autoX or a couple of track days (MAX), but both of the inner ball joints on the CAs were less tight than I would have liked, and the boots were in lousy shape. One tie rod inner joint was scary-loose as well.
As for the 327i build, everything came out easily, but nothing was installed (more on that later).
Head, stripped down:
http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k2...adStripped.jpg
Last edited by phenryiv1; 05-11-2010 at 11:08 AM.
05-11-2010, 10:02 AM
#20
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Thread Starter
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Martinsburg, WV
Posts: 9,827
05.03.10:
'vert front sway bar installed. New Endlinks as well:
My garage is a mess with little chance of improvement any time soon.
05.05.10:
Picked up another head. Last one needed machined, and I don't have the time for that if I want to have the car ready for the next track day. (Irony, irony…)
This one is dirtier (far dirtier) but the machinist checked it over yesterday and said it should work after cleaning. (More later)
'vert front sway bar installed. New Endlinks as well:
My garage is a mess with little chance of improvement any time soon.
05.05.10:
Picked up another head. Last one needed machined, and I don't have the time for that if I want to have the car ready for the next track day. (Irony, irony…)
This one is dirtier (far dirtier) but the machinist checked it over yesterday and said it should work after cleaning. (More later)
Last edited by phenryiv1; 05-11-2010 at 11:09 AM.
05-11-2010, 10:03 AM
#21
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Thread Starter
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Martinsburg, WV
Posts: 9,827
05.11.10:
Got some major work done over the last few days (pics to follow), but also suffered a setback.
Got my front Bilstein Sport struts and H&R Sport springs, rebuilt front calipers, Brembo rotors, UUC front lines, and Mintex (not what I really wanted, but I bought them before I knew better) pads installed.
Also installed my 3.73 LSD today.
Now the bad news: At least one- maybe two- of the valves appear to be bent.
I am starting to wish I had never started the 327i build. First off, my car would be ready for the autocross this weekend had we not pulled the stock SETA head last week, and now I am spending more money than I wanted in machine work on the head. Counting the head cost and machine costs, plus the cost of all of the 327i refresh parts and add-ons (DME, cluster, gaskets, TB, water pump, T-stat), I really wish that I had run the stock motor and sourced an M50 or a complete M20B25 for a swap.
I will have about $200-250 in machine work plus $100 in the head. For that, I really could have either bought the M50 and built a swap harness or could have sourced an M20B25 that needed minor refreshing. I'll have slightly more power than the stock B25, but the journey has been less fun than I thought.
Sure the 327i build has taught me about the car and I will have a "known" motor when done, but I just question my own judgement in taking this route.
Got some major work done over the last few days (pics to follow), but also suffered a setback.
Got my front Bilstein Sport struts and H&R Sport springs, rebuilt front calipers, Brembo rotors, UUC front lines, and Mintex (not what I really wanted, but I bought them before I knew better) pads installed.
Also installed my 3.73 LSD today.
Now the bad news: At least one- maybe two- of the valves appear to be bent.
I am starting to wish I had never started the 327i build. First off, my car would be ready for the autocross this weekend had we not pulled the stock SETA head last week, and now I am spending more money than I wanted in machine work on the head. Counting the head cost and machine costs, plus the cost of all of the 327i refresh parts and add-ons (DME, cluster, gaskets, TB, water pump, T-stat), I really wish that I had run the stock motor and sourced an M50 or a complete M20B25 for a swap.
I will have about $200-250 in machine work plus $100 in the head. For that, I really could have either bought the M50 and built a swap harness or could have sourced an M20B25 that needed minor refreshing. I'll have slightly more power than the stock B25, but the journey has been less fun than I thought.
Sure the 327i build has taught me about the car and I will have a "known" motor when done, but I just question my own judgement in taking this route.
Last edited by phenryiv1; 05-11-2010 at 11:10 AM.
05-11-2010, 10:03 AM
#22
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05.12.10:
Got a call from the machinist about the head. No valves are bent, but the valve guides on the exhaust side are loose. Parts and labor will add about another $100 to the cost of machining. Ugh. Looking at around $250 now, plus a definite no-go for the track this weekend (not that that was likely anyway).
On a positive note…
Got my Azenis mounted and balanced today:
Got a call from the machinist about the head. No valves are bent, but the valve guides on the exhaust side are loose. Parts and labor will add about another $100 to the cost of machining. Ugh. Looking at around $250 now, plus a definite no-go for the track this weekend (not that that was likely anyway).
On a positive note…
Got my Azenis mounted and balanced today:
05-11-2010, 11:34 AM
#23
I love builds like these. Just awesome and I love E30s. I'm looking for an E30 2-door shell so I can work on it as my next little project, it has to be one of my favorite cars honestly.
This looks really good so far.
Congrats on the little one!
This looks really good so far.
Congrats on the little one!
Last edited by DrunkieTheBear; 05-11-2010 at 11:37 AM.
05-11-2010, 11:52 AM
#24
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Excellent build. Definitely made it a lot further than me. I have an M50B25 E36 I'm parting out if you need anything.
Quick question: you said you got $90 from taking the exhaust to a recycler? I was just gonna toss mine, what kind of place is this? Thanks!
Quick question: you said you got $90 from taking the exhaust to a recycler? I was just gonna toss mine, what kind of place is this? Thanks!
05-11-2010, 12:23 PM
#25
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It has been a fun and challenging car to work on. The chassis has been through so much development that bad parts are quickly weeded out of the marketplace, and much of what remains works well, btu there are costs associated with a smaller marketplace.
Also, everything on them is old, and have to be replaced. It is not like an A32/33 where you can re-use mounts and bushings- it is ALL old and bad. Those "little" parts add up.
Additionally, it gets tough to find parts locally, so shipping a $4 part to me becomes a $10 activity, plus there is no next-day run-to-the-store option for most stuff.
05-11-2010, 02:32 PM
#28
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http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1370950
05-12-2010, 06:37 AM
#34
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I am seriously regretting the motor build...
As of now, the car is 90% done, other than the head swap. All that I need to do to have the car on the road/track is to reconnect the drive shaft and halfshafts to the diff, bleed the brakes, connect the lower rear shock mounts, change the oil, and get an alignment.
Of course, since I (stupidly) decided to mess with the motor, I have no top end right now and a SECOND replacement head has problems. I can run it, but it has already been rebuilt and still needs new exhaust valve guides. HOWEVER, since it has already been rebuilt, there are no off-the-shelf exhaust guides that will work.
If I just put it back together, I could get anywhere between 5K-20K out of it before the valves don't seal properly.
Had I just left the motor as-is, the 5-6 hours spent on the disassembly would have been spent buttoning up the remaining non-motor issues and it would be ready to drive today.
Now I am stuck with a semi-usable head that will eventually fail, several hours of machine work to determine that the head was not in the best shape, and a questionable set of valve guides.
As of now, the car is 90% done, other than the head swap. All that I need to do to have the car on the road/track is to reconnect the drive shaft and halfshafts to the diff, bleed the brakes, connect the lower rear shock mounts, change the oil, and get an alignment.
Of course, since I (stupidly) decided to mess with the motor, I have no top end right now and a SECOND replacement head has problems. I can run it, but it has already been rebuilt and still needs new exhaust valve guides. HOWEVER, since it has already been rebuilt, there are no off-the-shelf exhaust guides that will work.
If I just put it back together, I could get anywhere between 5K-20K out of it before the valves don't seal properly.
Had I just left the motor as-is, the 5-6 hours spent on the disassembly would have been spent buttoning up the remaining non-motor issues and it would be ready to drive today.
Now I am stuck with a semi-usable head that will eventually fail, several hours of machine work to determine that the head was not in the best shape, and a questionable set of valve guides.
Last edited by phenryiv1; 05-20-2010 at 10:09 AM.
05-12-2010, 07:15 AM
#36
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Once it was removed, I'd have had to "burn" a set of $50 use-once head bolts and a $35 head gasket, $20-30 timing belt, etc. to re-use it.
I stubbornly refused to do so.
That also assumes that the valve guides in THAT head were not in as bad or worse shape than the ones on the replacement head.
I do have to option of not replacing the guides, bolting it together, and driving it until it breaks. When that happens, I can either get another hed and rebuild it, orr I can look into a full swap (either another M20 or something newer/bigger).
That is starting to look like an option.
Last edited by phenryiv1; 05-12-2010 at 07:18 AM.
05-12-2010, 07:51 AM
#37
Sold it to cover machine work costs.
Once it was removed, I'd have had to "burn" a set of $50 use-once head bolts and a $35 head gasket, $20-30 timing belt, etc. to re-use it.
I stubbornly refused to do so.
That also assumes that the valve guides in THAT head were not in as bad or worse shape than the ones on the replacement head.
I do have to option of not replacing the guides, bolting it together, and driving it until it breaks. When that happens, I can either get another hed and rebuild it, orr I can look into a full swap (either another M20 or something newer/bigger).
That is starting to look like an option.
Once it was removed, I'd have had to "burn" a set of $50 use-once head bolts and a $35 head gasket, $20-30 timing belt, etc. to re-use it.
I stubbornly refused to do so.
That also assumes that the valve guides in THAT head were not in as bad or worse shape than the ones on the replacement head.
I do have to option of not replacing the guides, bolting it together, and driving it until it breaks. When that happens, I can either get another hed and rebuild it, orr I can look into a full swap (either another M20 or something newer/bigger).
That is starting to look like an option.
In my opinion, if you've got a swap in mind in the future then you should just roll with what you have and hope that it last longer then you anticipated and just be prepared for it to roast on you and do the swap then. Saves you money in the immediate, and gives you time to save up for the swap. That would be me though. Who knows, this set might last you 20k miles or more.
05-12-2010, 08:13 AM
#38
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I see a swap in your future. I would surely imagine that they'd be a set of guides out there that would work with your application, or ones could be modified or custom made to order. Not sure if that would be something you'd consider.
In my opinion, if you've got a swap in mind in the future then you should just roll with what you have and hope that it last longer then you anticipated and just be prepared for it to roast on you and do the swap then. Saves you money in the immediate, and gives you time to save up for the swap. That would be me though. Who knows, this set might last you 20k miles or more.
In my opinion, if you've got a swap in mind in the future then you should just roll with what you have and hope that it last longer then you anticipated and just be prepared for it to roast on you and do the swap then. Saves you money in the immediate, and gives you time to save up for the swap. That would be me though. Who knows, this set might last you 20k miles or more.
I have the possibility of buying slightly larger valve guides and having them turned on a lathe to make them fit, but that still involves cost. The machinist is pricing out the possibility of lathing versus honing the head out a bit more.
According to my recent research, honing and going up a size in valve guides is standard procedure in refurbishing a head, btu the really weird thing is that BMW only made valve guides in 3 sizes: 13.05mm, 13.15mm, and 13.25mm. These measured out at precisely 13.208mm, so neither my machinist nor a well-respected BMW e30 race motor builder know where/how a set of 13.208mm guides got installed in an otherwise stock head.
The head has clearly had work done (the intake valves look almost new), but how or why 13.208mm guides were used is a mystery.
