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I love the two tone interior...looks like a real top notch job...are those 8" or 10" you are running? how much power do you have going to each of them? Have you had any problems with vibration of your rear windscreen? Thats a real clean place to mount those subs but based on my experience with my rear windscreen rattling (glass on metal sound FTL) I would be afraid to run too much power to those subs...
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● My Car Domain Page ● Sarona Front bumper, Rear bumper, Fenders, Side Skirts, and Hood ● Projectors w/ TSX lenses and CCFL angel-eyes ● 8,000k HIDs ● Katana KR7 (Hyperblack) ● CMX Rotors w/ Axis Pads ● Tein S-Techs w/ Tokico HPs ● CustomMaxima.com FSTB ● Progress RSB ● NWP Thermal Intake Spacers ● BERK intake w/ AEM Dryflow ● Y-Pipe B-pipe, and Rear Section ● Custom Audio and Video ●
I love the two tone interior...looks like a real top notch job...are those 8" or 10" you are running? how much power do you have going to each of them? Have you had any problems with vibration of your rear windscreen? Thats a real clean place to mount those subs but based on my experience with my rear windscreen rattling (glass on metal sound FTL) I would be afraid to run too much power to those subs...
They are 12" incriminator audio flatlynes no vibration as we used a chitload of damplifier pro luxury liner and expanding foam check out my car domain page shows the install and has vids of the system working. And these subs are so friggin accurate its unbelieveable. If you havent heard incriminator flatlynes in IB you have not heard a a real sub stage. The dyns are running passive off 300 watts a piece the subs are running off 1000 watts at 2 ohms off the P1 Ultra ran in parallell. I will be going active soon, will have a zapco dsp6 and will run 150 to the midbass' and 100 to each mid and tweet and eliminate the rear fill. as it stands right now with very little tuning this is by far the best, clearest accurate and "full" sounding set up i have ever owned.
Thanks Just waiting on UPS to arrive with my shift knob, e brake handle and dash kit to up my carbon quotient. and to get off my lazy *** and swap out the carpet and pedals.
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SHIFT_LOTS OF OIL
DCMAX current mods- 4th gen intake, 2.5" custom catback, NWP block off plate, 00SE tailight w/overlays, Rewired fog lights, Eyelid, JIC coilovers, FSTB, 3.0 OBX headers, SSIM...
95 White GXE- 15.1 sold... now 14.9 (car next to me in sig)
00 Sterling GXE- 15.0 (ebay intake, exhaust) my next love and beauty (crashed n sold)
02 Sterling GLE- 13.84@100 2.1'
They are 12" incriminator audio flatlynes no vibration as we used a chitload of damplifier pro luxury liner and expanding foam check out my car domain page shows the install and has vids of the system working. And these subs are so friggin accurate its unbelieveable. If you havent heard incriminator flatlynes in IB you have not heard a a real sub stage. The dyns are running passive off 300 watts a piece the subs are running off 1000 watts at 2 ohms off the P1 Ultra ran in parallell. I will be going active soon, will have a zapco dsp6 and will run 150 to the midbass' and 100 to each mid and tweet and eliminate the rear fill. as it stands right now with very little tuning this is by far the best, clearest accurate and "full" sounding set up i have ever owned.
Damn...props for getting those 12s to work properly in that mounting position...
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● My Car Domain Page ● Sarona Front bumper, Rear bumper, Fenders, Side Skirts, and Hood ● Projectors w/ TSX lenses and CCFL angel-eyes ● 8,000k HIDs ● Katana KR7 (Hyperblack) ● CMX Rotors w/ Axis Pads ● Tein S-Techs w/ Tokico HPs ● CustomMaxima.com FSTB ● Progress RSB ● NWP Thermal Intake Spacers ● BERK intake w/ AEM Dryflow ● Y-Pipe B-pipe, and Rear Section ● Custom Audio and Video ●
all in due time my friend.
will be changing the amp rack to a welded floating one 2 shelves 3 ultra 2's on top ultra 4 and ultra sub on bottom.
p2 to tweets
p2 to mids
p2 to dyn 242s in rear ran passive
p4 bridged to midbass
p1 to subs
and daisy chain 2 dsp 6' for processing all 9 channels.
no ill keep what Ive got
use the p4 bridged for the 172's 300w@ 4 ohm
a p2 to mids that will give em 75w @ 8 ohm
ap2 to tweets again 75w @ 8 ohm
no rear fill
1 dsp6 and TA on the HU for sub.
sound better?
thought about consilidating the 2 p2s for a p4 ultra?
i think 3 amps of the same size would look better, probably save a couplle bucks as well.
also, i'm confused. you got the p4 ult on the dyns passive and the psub ult on the subs... so what's the 3rd amp that you have currently installed doin?
thought about consilidating the 2 p2s for a p4 ultra?
i think 3 amps of the same size would look better, probably save a couplle bucks as well.
also, i'm confused. you got the p4 ult on the dyns passive and the psub ult on the subs... so what's the 3rd amp that you have currently installed doin?
currently its to nothing since the CDTs I had in the rear failed.
as far as the p4 ultra that only produces 100w @ 4ohms x4 thus 50 @ 8ohms x 4 is that enough for the mids and tweets? the sizing was part of the consideration as well part of the reason i was looking at 3 p2's
p2 ultras are 300mm in length 3x300mm =900mm
p4 and p1 are 450 each 2x450 = 900mm=symmetrical install
i also have the chance to trade the p2+200 bucks for a p4 and the ability to get another p4 pretty much at cost
so either way I went it would cost me the same
3 p2's p4 and p1 same dimensions
3 p4s and a p1 same dimensions
i forgot that the dyn mids/tweets are 8 ohm. i think you could expect a little more than 50w @ 8ohms though. if you look at the 2 to 4 ohm difference it's 2/3 power rather than 1/2. i would think it would be enough.
good point on the added widths although i personally prefer same size amps.
another interesting idea would be a p5 l/r + p1 ult sub.
i think i would go the 2x p4 ult + p1 ult route just because it won't cost you much more than what's already invested and i really don't see this arrangment coming up short.
i forgot that the dyn mids/tweets are 8 ohm. i think you could expect a little more than 50w @ 8ohms though. if you look at the 2 to 4 ohm difference it's 2/3 power rather than 1/2. i would think it would be enough.
good point on the added widths although i personally prefer same size amps.
another interesting idea would be a p5 l/r + p1 ult sub.
i think i would go the 2x p4 ult + p1 ult route just because it won't cost you much more than what's already invested and i really don't see this arrangment coming up short.
gotcha Thx ive been wrestling with this layout for a few days now lol.
oh I forgot the tru line driver too!
also my lighting Im going to move the current leds to under the seats for rear cabin lighting. I need something without distinct points of light. what flexable tubes are out there for under amp lighting that are good quality bright etc. Thx
leds are going to hotspot. smd would be the best bet but i wouldn't bet on it. lol. other options could be sanding the leds for dispersion, diffusers, or using neon tubes.
leds are going to hotspot. smd would be the best bet but i wouldn't bet on it. lol. other options could be sanding the leds for dispersion, diffusers, or using neon tubes.
I was thinking neon tubes as well thx for the co sign
RIP 95 Maxi...Gone but never forgotten.
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