Can’t get car to run right after tb gasket and manifold gasket replacement
04-08-2023, 06:41 PM
#1
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Can’t get car to run right after tb gasket and manifold gasket replacement
I have a 1998 infiniti i30 and replaced and cleaned the throttle body and both manifold gaskets. I also replaced the tps with a new one because of recurring code. Ive got the car to idle pretty good around 700 Rpm but when Im driving it shifts fast into second and my acceleration is jerky. If I hold it to the floor it cuts out. I can barely give it throttle. I also been having a hard time getting the tps in spec. I went through the wiring and rewired the tps and tps switch connectors because I noticed 2 wires hanging and not in the connectors. I also accidentally pulled the egr temp sensor wire out of the pipe while removing egr so I could replace upper manifold gasket. I have cleaned the throttle body, iacv and egr passageway and egr pipe. If anyone can help me I would greatly appreciate it. I have codes P0120 ,P1320 and P1401. Prior to adjusting the tps I also had a P1705.Thank you and God bless.
Last edited by Patriot17; 04-08-2023 at 06:43 PM. Reason: Misspelled a couple of words
04-08-2023, 08:47 PM
#2
When it idles, does it have a cylinder misfiring? P1320 is a bad ignition coil and the ECU can't talk to the PTU inside of it. The 96-01 VQ30DE and DE-K was notorious for bad coils. I recommend
if you want to replace them all. Or go pull some from a junkyard.
First thing to check is your MAF on these cars. They're pretty touchy. I had 2 die on mine over the years. It never throws a code, but runs like total crap. The first one partially died and it was like I was getting a fuel cut at 3,000RPM. Drove OK under that. The second one failed completely. Could barely hold an idle, sputtered out if you revved it, etc. You could try a $6 can of MAF cleaner, but when they run as bad as you're describing, it's pretty much done for. I think replacements were around $60-80 for a good Delphi or Hitachi. You can get a generic just to get you by and see if it improves your situation.
The EGR is a problem I never dealt with, so don't know on that one.
See attached PDF for troubleshooting the TPS. You can back-probe the signal wire when connected to make sure that the voltage increases smoothly while pulling on the throttle cable. You'll also want to check the sensor right next to it. The Close Throttle Position switch. This might be why it's cutting out when floored. Could have bad contacts in there. I recently purchased a 94 Mitsu Diamante that had all kinds of similar issue surrounding the throttle body. The TPS was erratic and not smooth signal voltage. The closed position switch was off by over .06", causing the transmission to get a different throttle signal than the TPS was reporting, causing aggressive upshifts like you describe.
Just a word of advice, these questions can be answered much faster on the 4th generation forum. The I30 forum was more about showing off your build, asking I30 related questions like headlights, sound systems because of the different dash, interior, side skirts, and other things unique to the I30/35 body. Mechanically, these cars are pretty much identical. The brakes, engine, trans, etc are all shared.
Just don't tell them it's an I30 unless you think that part is unique. Engine trouble codes and all that are going to be the same 99% of the time.
First thing to check is your MAF on these cars. They're pretty touchy. I had 2 die on mine over the years. It never throws a code, but runs like total crap. The first one partially died and it was like I was getting a fuel cut at 3,000RPM. Drove OK under that. The second one failed completely. Could barely hold an idle, sputtered out if you revved it, etc. You could try a $6 can of MAF cleaner, but when they run as bad as you're describing, it's pretty much done for. I think replacements were around $60-80 for a good Delphi or Hitachi. You can get a generic just to get you by and see if it improves your situation.
The EGR is a problem I never dealt with, so don't know on that one.
See attached PDF for troubleshooting the TPS. You can back-probe the signal wire when connected to make sure that the voltage increases smoothly while pulling on the throttle cable. You'll also want to check the sensor right next to it. The Close Throttle Position switch. This might be why it's cutting out when floored. Could have bad contacts in there. I recently purchased a 94 Mitsu Diamante that had all kinds of similar issue surrounding the throttle body. The TPS was erratic and not smooth signal voltage. The closed position switch was off by over .06", causing the transmission to get a different throttle signal than the TPS was reporting, causing aggressive upshifts like you describe.
Just a word of advice, these questions can be answered much faster on the 4th generation forum. The I30 forum was more about showing off your build, asking I30 related questions like headlights, sound systems because of the different dash, interior, side skirts, and other things unique to the I30/35 body. Mechanically, these cars are pretty much identical. The brakes, engine, trans, etc are all shared.
Just don't tell them it's an I30 unless you think that part is unique. Engine trouble codes and all that are going to be the same 99% of the time.
Last edited by mydecember1985; 04-08-2023 at 09:07 PM.
04-08-2023, 10:30 PM
#3
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I’ve cleaned the maf sensor with maf sensor cleaner and nothing has changed. The maf is on the same wiring harness as the transmission resistor and the resistor has a loose wire that just shoved back down into the connector because I can’t figure out how to depin it. The 1320 code I believe is from a coil I just recently put in on cylinder 5 because the top was broken off. It was a cheap coil I got on ebay. My tps and tps switch pig tail connectors have about had it and I need new ones as well for the transmission resistor. Does the egr temperature sensor cause problems driving wise?
07-10-2023, 09:56 PM
#6
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Im giving update on the 1998 infiniti i30t. It runs like its brand new. I fixed it just a day or two after posting on here and forgot to give an update. It was the tps sensor harness and I had to go and rewire the harness. Took less than 45 mins. It runs great! Thank you for your help! God bless
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