Infiniti I30/I35Similar to a Maxima, yet not really a Maxima. Discussion forum on Nissan's luxury model, the Infiniti I30/I35
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Recently I have grown more closer to my sisters car as in the following months I may be given it. I noticed that only the top induction is connected and that the bottom one is missing a little pipe that connects it to the top one that should let both of them go into use. I tried looking for pictures online and I couldnt really find any so I chose to come here. Maybe one of you smart people can solve my problem. I would like to buy that piece or make a piece that will act to hold the gap if its not really easy to find.
She has a I30 infiniti 1997 and the gap is show where the question mark is....
Thank You (if you can help me)
There is no bottom duct. There is only the top main duct that runs directly to the air filter. It does have a resonator attached to it though. Perhaps some one removed the resonator and that is what you are seeing.
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Vortech- V2 SC/ BOV/ FMU- 8:1 disk; 3.25 pulley; Walbro 255 lph fuel pump; 3'' Intake Piping; Variable Intake Manifold; 5th Gen. Clutch; Fidanza Flywheel; B&M STS; Raxles Axles; Cattman- Y/ B Pipes; ES Motor Mounts
i30ds, you seem like a very educated person in cars.
Could you elaborate where I can get this "resonator", what it is, what it looks like, what exactly it does.
Right now, is this missing resonator robbing torque or horse power.
muchly appreciated info
oh and if anyone can show me a pic or link to a pic as im totally clueless
sorry
The resonator is simply a black platic box... probably 4'' X 2" X 3'' in size. You can get it from the dealer. Its purpose is to quiet the intake. You have not lost any hp or tq with its absence. Removing the resonator does nothing except make the intake louder.
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Vortech- V2 SC/ BOV/ FMU- 8:1 disk; 3.25 pulley; Walbro 255 lph fuel pump; 3'' Intake Piping; Variable Intake Manifold; 5th Gen. Clutch; Fidanza Flywheel; B&M STS; Raxles Axles; Cattman- Y/ B Pipes; ES Motor Mounts
Ok I knew my post would confuse some. Ok here goes again.
phenryiv1. I looked at your car domain page and saw that you changed needles. You have a orange needle for the speedometer and white needles for the gas, rpm, and battery. I want to do the same thing (put white needles on my current gauges). Here is my concern. phenryiv1 has a 1997 I30 and had a donor of a 97 Maxima as well (meaning both gauge clusters were from 1997). Someone told me that in 98 Nissan changed the size (the black round bottom). If this is true I can not take the needles from a 97 and put them on my 98. I just want to confirm if this is true or if all the 4th gen gauge needles are the same size (bottom circumfrence).
THe needles are the same size. THe person that told you that is wrong.
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Vortech- V2 SC/ BOV/ FMU- 8:1 disk; 3.25 pulley; Walbro 255 lph fuel pump; 3'' Intake Piping; Variable Intake Manifold; 5th Gen. Clutch; Fidanza Flywheel; B&M STS; Raxles Axles; Cattman- Y/ B Pipes; ES Motor Mounts
I have done some research and found out that i would have to find a free air sub. I have found a few 8" free air subs online, which is the same size as the BOSE sub. So would I still have to make mods to the shelf even though its the same size? I'll ask some questions in the audio forum too. THANKS.
You'd be better off with the ring from below (you can buy these cheap on eBay- $10 or less) to be sure that there was something solid for the sub to be screwed into.
I am about to change my oil for the first time on my 2000 I30 since I bought it. The mileage is about 126k. There are no leaks and the car is in great shape. I was wondering what grade of oil i should use? Can I use synthetic?
I use Castrol SLX Longlife 0W-30 full synthetic. My car came from the factory with that oil and i'm quiet happy with it. I think it's very important to put in the same kind of oil that was in there before...
Quote:
Originally Posted by JI30
Also, where is the cheapest place online to buy I30/I35 side skirts? I cant find any on ebay. Thanks!
Hey everyone, Im going to be buying a '97 I30 with 96,000 miles on it and was wondering if there is any specific to look for in these cars? My mom has a '00 I30 with 168k miles on it and it runs great but it has the o2 sensor problem where it leaves the check engine light on. Is this similar in the '97 models?
Also, how is the repair costs on these cars for stuff like starters, alternators, etc?
Thanks
O2 sensors are a normal wear item. You should replace them at high milage even if you are not getting a CEL. It makes a world of difference in fuel economy. Since your mom has a light, she should most definately get them replaced as they get cooked to hell.
Besides that, the only real issue on the 97 is the knock sensor. If it has not already been replaced then I can almost be sure that it will need to be. Differential side bearings on the manual transmission models also fail after about 50-75K. I would also check the rear main at that level of milage.
Stuff like like alternators and starters can be picked up for pretty cheap from a Nissan whole saler, and they are really easy to replace yourself.
Good luck.
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Vortech- V2 SC/ BOV/ FMU- 8:1 disk; 3.25 pulley; Walbro 255 lph fuel pump; 3'' Intake Piping; Variable Intake Manifold; 5th Gen. Clutch; Fidanza Flywheel; B&M STS; Raxles Axles; Cattman- Y/ B Pipes; ES Motor Mounts
Just wanna know how and where I would post a message about wanting to know if 20x9 wheels would fit my 2002 infiniti i35?
they are Arelli Aire 851 Chrome wheels
20x8.5
and if these will fit i need to know the best tires to use so they dont rub at all at first because i dont wanna have to do any suspension work right away
also this is the other specs they have on a webiste
I have a 2000 i30t A/T roughly 90k. I have been getting symptoms while stopped in drive, the car will idle fine for a few seconds after i stop at a light, but will begin to buck, and rpm will drop and bounce?
The car idle's at 700rpm normally while in Drive, the symptoms stop if i shift to N and hit the throttle? thanx
Too many possibilites with too little information.
Top item I would look at is your IACV.
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Vortech- V2 SC/ BOV/ FMU- 8:1 disk; 3.25 pulley; Walbro 255 lph fuel pump; 3'' Intake Piping; Variable Intake Manifold; 5th Gen. Clutch; Fidanza Flywheel; B&M STS; Raxles Axles; Cattman- Y/ B Pipes; ES Motor Mounts
I've got several problems/questions, listed in order of current importance:
2000-I30, auto, 135k.
Has what SOUNDS LIKE "valve clatter" pretty bad, except it only drinks premium (93 octane, from a variety of stations, so bad gas is out unless there is an epidemic). I read where somebody alluded to an EGR (I think) problem and how to test it...but couldn't find the actual instructions.
Currently has a PO174 code (System Too Lean, Bank 2). Related to #1 above, or is it O2 sensors?
One other anoying thing: About 90% of the time, when you turn the key in the ignition, nothing happens. Have to turn it back and then forward again and it fires right up. Hot or cold, doesn't matter. Turn key, let go, turn key and crank. Thoughts?
I doubt its valve chatter... it takes a lot for those shims to wear down. Could be a number of things though. Second item is more than likely O2 sensors. Third item sounds like ignition switch.
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Vortech- V2 SC/ BOV/ FMU- 8:1 disk; 3.25 pulley; Walbro 255 lph fuel pump; 3'' Intake Piping; Variable Intake Manifold; 5th Gen. Clutch; Fidanza Flywheel; B&M STS; Raxles Axles; Cattman- Y/ B Pipes; ES Motor Mounts
Bulb question: they came off ebay, lol. But make sure the bulb fits into the socket properly, they must not be making contact enough to properly complete the circuit
Quote:
Originally Posted by kaneda_77
Hey Fellahs,
I sold my Max... sad to see her go. But now I am looking into picking up a 97 Infiniti(it needs some serious body work). I saw in the FAQ that the body is the main difference between Max and i30. Question is:
Will a Maxima trunk "fit" on an i30? I know the lights are different... but I may be able to resolve that. Anyone ever done this?
Sad to see her go? the I30 is much nicer looking imo, not to mention all the amenities But to answer your question- Nope, the maxima trunk lid is much more rounded towards the edges where the I30 is flat, lights aside it's still completely different and will not fit on an I30. It's to bad you live in hawaii, I just brought one to the junkyard not long ago, and I have two more that are about to go there as well, 'ya can't even give the damn things away it seems. Oh and you're not that much of a newbie, you could have started a thread for this ya know.......
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Gatorade on my keyboard FTL.
5th & 5.5 gen VLSD Auto transmissions for sale, PM me.
I'm going to test drive both but for those who have driven both the '00-'01 I30 and the I35, what are your impressions? Is the I35 worth it despite some issues it has with the engine?
I absolutely admire the I35s for their more classy-looking dash, sporty shifter and gauge console, stock HIDS, and much nicer stock wheels, but I dindnt think it was worth the extra 3 Grand...
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Be generous in the bedroom -- share your sandwich.
To make a long story short, don't tell it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Succinct
Then again, maybe I feel this way because I fart dust because I have no use for 100% cosmetic mods either...
Hi, I'm looking to get either an '01 I30 or '02-'03 I35.
I was wondering if there's anything I should watch out for. I'm leaning toward the I35 but after reading the 5th gen forum, the VQ35's seem to have issues with the oil burning problem. And the VQ30 from the '01 models seem to be the most reliable.
I'm going to test drive both but for those who have driven both the '00-'01 I30 and the I35, what are your impressions? Is the I35 worth it despite some issues it has with the engine?
Thanks a lot.
Love my I35. Bought it brand new and now have 106k miles. No engine problems whatsoever.
Done general maintenance - only problem I really had was a wheel bearing that went bad about 10k miles ago. It destroyed the hub in the process, but the parts and labor were covered under Goodwill warranty at my local dealership.
Other than that, it's never let me down. If an I35 is what you want, then get a well-cared for example and you should be just fine.
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:: John ::
2002 Infiniti I35 Sport
Ok, I've posted a few weeks ago about an intermitant starting problem and it was suggested to check the fuel pressure... A mechanic checked it and said it was fine.
Anyway, along with that problem my 2001 i30 (57k) would also hesitate a little until the car had been running for a while....I thought nothing of it.
I recently went away and didn't drive my car for a week. When I drove the car after about 5 days of being cold, it started without a problem, but the gas pedal was VERY stiff and I couldn't get any power out of the car. ie) I would press the gas and it would not respond and if I was going fast (around 55 mph) it would buck and I'd have to pull off the gas. It kinda felt like it wasn't shifting into a high gear, but if I rev the engine in neutral it will do the same thing, that is it will go upto around 3-4k rpm and loose power, shake and drop quickly....kinda like it is reving fine, then somthing just switches off.
The car was almost undriveable for the first day, but after driving around the symtoms lessened, but have returned for the past few mornings.
I recently had all of my coils replaced, crankshaft sensors, and there was a light on a few weeks ago for a o2 sensor , but the mechanic reset it and said he'd replace it if it came back on.
I have seen this problem throughout this forum, but nobody seems to have a solution...
any help is much appreciated!
Sounds like a bad MAF.
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Vortech- V2 SC/ BOV/ FMU- 8:1 disk; 3.25 pulley; Walbro 255 lph fuel pump; 3'' Intake Piping; Variable Intake Manifold; 5th Gen. Clutch; Fidanza Flywheel; B&M STS; Raxles Axles; Cattman- Y/ B Pipes; ES Motor Mounts
Thats kinda what I thought after reading thru the other posts.
Can I test this? How much should it cost to replace?
Another thing I just thought of is that the car was at the autobody shop and the battery was disconnected for an unknown amount of time...would that cause any of these problems?
Pick up a chiltons and a multimeter to test the MAF. IIRC its several hundered dollars for a new MAF.
Having the battery disconnected would not cause any problems.
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Vortech- V2 SC/ BOV/ FMU- 8:1 disk; 3.25 pulley; Walbro 255 lph fuel pump; 3'' Intake Piping; Variable Intake Manifold; 5th Gen. Clutch; Fidanza Flywheel; B&M STS; Raxles Axles; Cattman- Y/ B Pipes; ES Motor Mounts
It was the MAF. Took it to 3 different mechanics. One said it was o2 sensors, the other the Fuel pump, and finally the last said it was the MAF. Given your suggestion and other info from this site, I sided with the last one. They charged me $120 for the part and $200 for labor....I know I could of done it myself, but $320 isn't bad.
The car pulls like its brand new...amazing.
My normal mechanic was the one who suggested the fuel pump and I was ready to have it replaced, this site saved me a ton of money.
thank you.
glad to hear you're running well again.
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Vortech- V2 SC/ BOV/ FMU- 8:1 disk; 3.25 pulley; Walbro 255 lph fuel pump; 3'' Intake Piping; Variable Intake Manifold; 5th Gen. Clutch; Fidanza Flywheel; B&M STS; Raxles Axles; Cattman- Y/ B Pipes; ES Motor Mounts
I am wondering if there are any power gains over stock or no?
I personally went with a short-ram intake off flea-bay, partly because I enjoy speeding up and hydroplaning over giant puddles, and partly because I'd rather not have to deal with cleaning my air-filter every 3k miles. You will notice an improvement with either, and a much more pronounced growl from under the hood, other than that some of them have poor quality filters, and they come with cheasy plastic maf adaptors that break so you need to buy an aluminum maf adaptor at the same time.
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Gatorade on my keyboard FTL.
5th & 5.5 gen VLSD Auto transmissions for sale, PM me.
Hello, I have a 00 I30 with close to 130k miles. My A/C is being unusually loud and making a clunking noise when outside of the car. The A/C works fine but the noise is a bit loud outside. Is it normal?
noise from the fan?
Turn on the A/C and while you hear the noise, then unplug the fans one at a time...
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Vortech- V2 SC/ BOV/ FMU- 8:1 disk; 3.25 pulley; Walbro 255 lph fuel pump; 3'' Intake Piping; Variable Intake Manifold; 5th Gen. Clutch; Fidanza Flywheel; B&M STS; Raxles Axles; Cattman- Y/ B Pipes; ES Motor Mounts
Is the knock sensor i can do my self?
well i need a price checks on a few items
97 i30 oem rim
97 i30 knock senor
97 i30 brush guard arm i thinks thats what its called
and those tubes where those springs are by the tire are not in good cond.
Yes, but it is a B!TCH to do without removing the upper intake manifold collector. Read the write up in the 4th gen stickes and then REread it again to decide if you're up for the challenge.
Call one of the wholesalers in the I30 FAQ for the best quotes on OEM parts.
I was getting a knock sensor code so I tested resistance and found it to be 3.23k. So I pulled the KS and bench tested it and it checked ok at 550 ohms. So I played a hunch and went down to my local Nissan dealer and bought a KS harness and plugged the new harness in to the KS and grounded it on top of the engine. The code disappeared. My problem was the KS harness. Have you guys ever heard of these going bad and what causes it? I'm an electrician by trade so naturally I completely dissected the harness and found no ground faults or crimped wire. It just decided to quit and I'm quite baffled by it. I'm just curious because maybe its something I overlooked and I'd like to avoid touching the KS...its not my favorite late night activity.
Very rare for this to happen, but it does occur from time to time. At least with the KS, as long as there is no code, there is no problem.
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Vortech- V2 SC/ BOV/ FMU- 8:1 disk; 3.25 pulley; Walbro 255 lph fuel pump; 3'' Intake Piping; Variable Intake Manifold; 5th Gen. Clutch; Fidanza Flywheel; B&M STS; Raxles Axles; Cattman- Y/ B Pipes; ES Motor Mounts
I have a forum related question.
I've had this account for about a month, made numerous posts, and clicked the activation link. So why don't I have access to use certain tools on the forums? I can't send PM's, Make new threads, and I have to use the crappy "free search." Someone please tell me what's going on.
I have looked around but have yet to find the answer as to what is needed to add factory navigation to my 02 I35. I added the OEM navigation to my Intrepid by getting a new headunit and an antenna. I get the feeling that it is not that simple with the Infiniti as the display is not built into the headunit but from the pictures I have seen it is an additional part that pops up from the dash.
Cheapest I have seen for all the CDs, Head unit, and pop-up screen module was around 750+Shipping, but that was from an overseas Yahoo auction site, so I would say it should cost you about $1K out the door here in america.
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Be generous in the bedroom -- share your sandwich.
To make a long story short, don't tell it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Succinct
Then again, maybe I feel this way because I fart dust because I have no use for 100% cosmetic mods either...
I recently bought the folding side mirrors and recently had them installed on my 2000 I30. The problem is the color coding for the switch does not match the wires. Should I try to use the diagram or should I ask the seller for new set of wires for an I30 (asked for Cerfro A33)?
Also, would there be an error in the mirror or the wiring if the left mirror only adjusts the mirror to the left? The right mirror works perfectly, besides the fact the neither mirror folds but the wires are not hooked up.
That's odd. All I did was disconnect the factory wiring harness, remove the OEM switch, and replace it with the new included switch into the factory wiring harness. Everything worked on the mirrors then, except for the lights and folding. I did have to run new wires from the switch to the mirrors for the folding function and then of course ran new wires to tap the appropriate places for the lights.
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:: John ::
2002 Infiniti I35 Sport
CAR: 2000 I30
Work to be done: 1)Rear struts for sure, debating on doing the front...
2) Radiator
My question is, if I do the front, I will replace the struts and strut mounts... Now when shopping for these parts, Ive noticed "strut bearings" are an item you can buy... Do i need to get these bearings or will they be included in either the new strut or strut mount im getting?
2) Second problem Ive seen is under the hood.. There looks to be dried coolant all over the valve cover and other parts of the engine like the coolant exploded.. BUT, the coolant is still in there. Im thinking the radiator has a small crack on the side because I see some coolant in a straight line.
SO do you guys think I should change out the thermostat at the same time? Is there a "how to" on either of these? Im a 3000gt guy and have done this work before, but the I30 engine space takes up so much room.
Thanks in advance.
By the way, the car has 172k miles, Think I should replace anything else?
Any suggestions on whats the best Tranny fluid to use? Im thinking Royal Purple.
The bearing are not included, but you should get new ones anyways... also get new bump stops/dust boots.
If you're replacing the radiatior, you might as well replace the thermostat... A write up is not really needed.
Once you have the lower radiator hose removed (from radiator replacement), just remove the 3 nuts holding the thermostat housing to the timing cover. Pull the thermostat housing out and remove the gasket. Now, remove the 2 screws holding the thermostat into the housing. Put in the new thermostat, slap on a new gasket, mount the housing back in place, and then put the hose back on.... you're done. 30 min job tops.
I've got a Squeal coming from (I think) the passenger side of the engine.
It only happens when the AC is on...gets louder when I hit the gas and goes away..then comes back again. Its gotten worse over the past month.
I also swear I smell burning rubber, but my gf says I'm crazy.
My mechanic said I needed to replace the pulley...I've also seen other evidence from this forum that suggests the same thing.
My question is
1) does this sound like the right solution
2) Can I do it my self, since the mechanic said the part is only $50 but the labor is 2 hours, bringing the total to over $200... they also suggested changing the power steering belt since it is right there.
Any help is much appreciated,
thanks.
Could be your just your serpentine belt, or one of the engine fans, or the A/C compressor itself.
Originally Posted by sweets_green
It was the MAF. Took it to 3 different mechanics. One said it was o2 sensors, the other the Fuel pump, and finally the last said it was the MAF. Given your suggestion and other info from this site, I sided with the last one. They charged me $120 for the part and $200 for labor....I know I could of done it myself, but $320 isn't bad.
The car pulls like its brand new...amazing.
My normal mechanic was the one who suggested the fuel pump and I was ready to have it replaced, this site saved me a ton of money.
thank you..
I have the exact same problem and i went to 3 different mechanics and no one had a solution. I have been driving with this problem for what seems to be a month to two month is there any worry for danger.
I have the exact same problem and i went to 3 different mechanics and no one had a solution. I have been driving with this problem for what seems to be a month to two month is there any worry for danger.
Well if it is the MAF, then have it replaced. At most it will be a few hundred $.
As for danger; I knew I couldn't drive with the problem when I was trying to pass a truck on the jersey turnpike. I was almost passed the truck when the car decided to give out...I almost crashed into the divider.
Altima.net user here. Trying to get some information on the 95-99 I30 tranny. Specifically the LSD auto tranny. It appears the part # is the same as the 03 Altima Auto. I am researching to see if this will cross over to my car. I was looking for anything that would help my research. What I haven't been able to find is a picture to see if the housing needs to be swapped or if the LSD will go into my housing. I also can't find the part # for the LSD itself - only a comp tranny. Any help would be appreciated.
I woke up today to go to work and i seen that my wheel had a gash in it. My brother was also driving the car that day but only took for 2 hours. He said he did no damage and the only place he parked was a drive way (No way he could have hit a curb while parking). He is a credible source but i want your opinoin on how this happened. Is there a chance it was slashed there are many slashings in my area.
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