Bose Subs Integration
05-16-2006, 03:11 PM
#1
Bose Subs Integration
I was wondering if anyone has integrated an aftermarket amp and subwoofer to the existing bose system in the I30s. I have a P3002 Alpine amp and two Rockford Fosgate P2 12s that are just sitting aorund from my old car. I don't want to hassle with buying the double din headunit crap to compromise the flow of the stock dash by adding a headunit that looks outta place. So has anyone integrated an aftermarket amp and subwoofer to the I30? I was looking at the pinouts for the plug on the bose amp and im wondering if there are any low level inputs for the amp from the head unit that could be tapped into for the aftermarket amp inputs. My guess is that there aren't any specific low level input signals from the headunit to the amp specifically for the aftermarket amp and subwoofer. I wanna know if it could be done using perhaps one of the speaker inputs from theheadunit to the amp. WOuld the speaker input to the amp be a lowlevel that i could use? and If i use the speaker input as the lowleve input to the aftermarket amp would there be crap sound coming outta the subs cause it's not the right signal? This could be a weekend project that i might get into but before i jump into anything i wanna confirm with you guys if anyones ever done it. and if you have done it if i could possibly get some pointers. I Know that there is some scosche or PAC parts that the 1st gen I30 owners could use to convert the speaker signals to lowlevels for an aftermarket system. but i haven't read anything for the 2nd gen I30s and I35s.
I looked at this pinout diagram from audtatious' website: http://www.moodym.com/maxima/maxmain.html
I looked at this pinout diagram from audtatious' website: http://www.moodym.com/maxima/maxmain.html
05-16-2006, 08:08 PM
#3
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 29
05-17-2006, 02:22 PM
#5
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 29
I'm right outside boston in lynn. ya i've partied in neu a couple times and i work in boston. great place...if it wasn't so much $ to live in the city i'd be there already lol. let me know if you keep the oem amp with that adapter and how you did it. i'm going to be getting on of these for my soon-to-be system and am considering keeping the oem amp/sub for mid-bass duty.
05-19-2006, 02:26 PM
#7
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 5
I have kind of a dumb question for you guys
You guys seems to really know your stuff about car stereso and im, well, not really up to speed. I have a 300 watt soundstream mono amp and 2 JL 10 w0s in a sealed box. What can I do with this amp/sub setup and with this adapter that is being sold on ebay. As far as installation goes what am I looking at doing? If you guys could shed some light on THIS issue it would be a big help. I am not looking to rattle peoples windows when I drive past their houses, just enough bass to sound good inside the car. Anything on this subject or how I should set this up would be a big help. Thanks in advance!
Oh I also have a 12 inch cerwin vega sub, dont know the specs on it but I will check. Maybe that would work better with this amp?
Thanks guys.
You guys seems to really know your stuff about car stereso and im, well, not really up to speed. I have a 300 watt soundstream mono amp and 2 JL 10 w0s in a sealed box. What can I do with this amp/sub setup and with this adapter that is being sold on ebay. As far as installation goes what am I looking at doing? If you guys could shed some light on THIS issue it would be a big help. I am not looking to rattle peoples windows when I drive past their houses, just enough bass to sound good inside the car. Anything on this subject or how I should set this up would be a big help. Thanks in advance!Oh I also have a 12 inch cerwin vega sub, dont know the specs on it but I will check. Maybe that would work better with this amp?
Thanks guys.
05-19-2006, 06:13 PM
#8
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 29
thats pretty good equipment that you have there, i believe you will be satisfied for what you're looking to get out of it. me myself, i'm going to be pushing ~1700 rms to one 12/15" . Right now I got 2 infinit perfect vq 12" components getting pushed by a rf 801s. it's very nice for sound quality and loudness, but i need more loudness. but at any rate...
first, you will need to bridge the amp since it is mono, to the 2 jls. Off the top, I think those two subs sound optimal with 300wrms. However, the soundsteam is underrated and will probably give out somewhere between 175-200+ rms depending on your electrical situation. with 300 rms you might have the slightest hint of dimming, but i doubt it. depends on your battery and wires. i know the stock i30 alt is good for like 110 amp? or so. Also, you will need to know what impedence and voice coil setup your subs have in order to properly wire them. i suggest searching for that. some good sites are: google (duh), caraudio.com, and for an idea of how your subs will look/sound doing their business realmofexcursion.com. as for the cerwin vega...i don't think you have the high end gear they sell because it is very powerful stuff. if the sub looks "inside out", and you wouldve mentioned that probably, it is a stroker and that sub is just dandy. it will need a lot more than 300 wrms tho. At any rate, you have a pretty good pairing with your 0s and ss amp. Good luck and let me know if i can aid you with anything else.
oh and as for the usage of the adapter...it's simple. take out the oem deck, hook up the adapter, and run the amp to the adapter just as you would an aftermarket deck. real simple, stealth, and not to mention clean. and from some quick research i realized that the adapter has 4 outputs so it won't be a prob to integrate the oem amp, as long as you have 1 and not a bunch like some bose systems.
first, you will need to bridge the amp since it is mono, to the 2 jls. Off the top, I think those two subs sound optimal with 300wrms. However, the soundsteam is underrated and will probably give out somewhere between 175-200+ rms depending on your electrical situation. with 300 rms you might have the slightest hint of dimming, but i doubt it. depends on your battery and wires. i know the stock i30 alt is good for like 110 amp? or so. Also, you will need to know what impedence and voice coil setup your subs have in order to properly wire them. i suggest searching for that. some good sites are: google (duh), caraudio.com, and for an idea of how your subs will look/sound doing their business realmofexcursion.com. as for the cerwin vega...i don't think you have the high end gear they sell because it is very powerful stuff. if the sub looks "inside out", and you wouldve mentioned that probably, it is a stroker and that sub is just dandy. it will need a lot more than 300 wrms tho. At any rate, you have a pretty good pairing with your 0s and ss amp. Good luck and let me know if i can aid you with anything else.
oh and as for the usage of the adapter...it's simple. take out the oem deck, hook up the adapter, and run the amp to the adapter just as you would an aftermarket deck. real simple, stealth, and not to mention clean. and from some quick research i realized that the adapter has 4 outputs so it won't be a prob to integrate the oem amp, as long as you have 1 and not a bunch like some bose systems.
05-20-2006, 01:25 AM
#9
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 11
I have to sing the absolute praises of the JL Audio CL441DSP. Known as the CleanSweep this is an absolute must for those that want to or have to keep their stock BOSE system. It is a digital signal processor that basically removes the crappy factory equalization and lets you control the level with a ****. It has a calibration mode that analyzes the signal and adjusts itself accordingly. I have the stock Bose HU, amp, and highs. I added a Kicker ZX400.1 sub amp to a Infinity DVC 12" and it ROCKS (THUMPS) and sounds good with all music (except country, how would I know?). If you can afford it this is the only way to go. Send that PAC line level converter back and get a JL Audio CleanSweep.
If you want to order where I ordered from reply or email (bigboiajayi@yahoo) and I will send you the link the company is in PA. The cheapest I found this at retail stores was 399.00 on the Internet 349.99 and from MedTronics 299.99 and only 10 dollars shipping. You will NOT find it cheaper than 299.99 unless on ebaY!
The 'Dirty 30' - I have to post this message more than once. This unit is heaven sent, seriously. Does anyone know of something similar or is this the only unit.
If you want to order where I ordered from reply or email (bigboiajayi@yahoo) and I will send you the link the company is in PA. The cheapest I found this at retail stores was 399.00 on the Internet 349.99 and from MedTronics 299.99 and only 10 dollars shipping. You will NOT find it cheaper than 299.99 unless on ebaY!
The 'Dirty 30' - I have to post this message more than once. This unit is heaven sent, seriously. Does anyone know of something similar or is this the only unit.
05-22-2006, 07:23 PM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 217
Originally Posted by ValveStemThief
thats pretty good equipment that you have there, i believe you will be satisfied for what you're looking to get out of it. me myself, i'm going to be pushing ~1700 rms to one 12/15" . Right now I got 2 infinit perfect vq 12" components getting pushed by a rf 801s. it's very nice for sound quality and loudness, but i need more loudness. but at any rate...
first, you will need to bridge the amp since it is mono, to the 2 jls. Off the top, I think those two subs sound optimal with 300wrms. However, the soundsteam is underrated and will probably give out somewhere between 175-200+ rms depending on your electrical situation. with 300 rms you might have the slightest hint of dimming, but i doubt it. depends on your battery and wires. i know the stock i30 alt is good for like 110 amp? or so. Also, you will need to know what impedence and voice coil setup your subs have in order to properly wire them. i suggest searching for that. some good sites are: google (duh), caraudio.com, and for an idea of how your subs will look/sound doing their business realmofexcursion.com. as for the cerwin vega...i don't think you have the high end gear they sell because it is very powerful stuff. if the sub looks "inside out", and you wouldve mentioned that probably, it is a stroker and that sub is just dandy. it will need a lot more than 300 wrms tho. At any rate, you have a pretty good pairing with your 0s and ss amp. Good luck and let me know if i can aid you with anything else.
oh and as for the usage of the adapter...it's simple. take out the oem deck, hook up the adapter, and run the amp to the adapter just as you would an aftermarket deck. real simple, stealth, and not to mention clean. and from some quick research i realized that the adapter has 4 outputs so it won't be a prob to integrate the oem amp, as long as you have 1 and not a bunch like some bose systems.
first, you will need to bridge the amp since it is mono, to the 2 jls. Off the top, I think those two subs sound optimal with 300wrms. However, the soundsteam is underrated and will probably give out somewhere between 175-200+ rms depending on your electrical situation. with 300 rms you might have the slightest hint of dimming, but i doubt it. depends on your battery and wires. i know the stock i30 alt is good for like 110 amp? or so. Also, you will need to know what impedence and voice coil setup your subs have in order to properly wire them. i suggest searching for that. some good sites are: google (duh), caraudio.com, and for an idea of how your subs will look/sound doing their business realmofexcursion.com. as for the cerwin vega...i don't think you have the high end gear they sell because it is very powerful stuff. if the sub looks "inside out", and you wouldve mentioned that probably, it is a stroker and that sub is just dandy. it will need a lot more than 300 wrms tho. At any rate, you have a pretty good pairing with your 0s and ss amp. Good luck and let me know if i can aid you with anything else.
oh and as for the usage of the adapter...it's simple. take out the oem deck, hook up the adapter, and run the amp to the adapter just as you would an aftermarket deck. real simple, stealth, and not to mention clean. and from some quick research i realized that the adapter has 4 outputs so it won't be a prob to integrate the oem amp, as long as you have 1 and not a bunch like some bose systems.
05-23-2006, 07:56 PM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 217
It's not good to run more than your alternator can put out, because it is the only real source of energy. Everything else is storage, and eventually the alternator will have to put out the sum of the required power, whether it is to power the amps or to charge the batteries/caps. Also, a battery will only put out 12v, so it will only kick in if your car is off, or if you pull more amps than your alt can put out. However your entire electrical system will sag to 12V or less (more than likely less) and cause efficiency to drop like a rock, causing you to draw even more amps to make up for the loss in voltage.
1700wrms @ 14.4v = 118amps, 75% efficiency (class D) = 157 amps
1700wrms @ 12v = 141amps, 65% efficiency (class D) = 189 amps
If you draw 157 or 189 amps from an available 65-70 from your alt (MAX @ optimal temperature), then you have a 90-119amp deficit, which a battery can only maintain for so long. Also since it is a constant drain, you will be discharging the battery because there is a deficit, and you will have to constantly charge your battery w/o the audio on. A lot of people assume you can run it, and instead *think* they do, because it is 'loud'. So instead they blindly run it underpowered and won't ever actually get full power.
The only real solution is to upgrade the power source, the alternator. Caps/batteries are just a drain on your system, because they will be constantly charging, pulling precious amps you don't already have enough of.
1700wrms @ 14.4v = 118amps, 75% efficiency (class D) = 157 amps
1700wrms @ 12v = 141amps, 65% efficiency (class D) = 189 amps
If you draw 157 or 189 amps from an available 65-70 from your alt (MAX @ optimal temperature), then you have a 90-119amp deficit, which a battery can only maintain for so long. Also since it is a constant drain, you will be discharging the battery because there is a deficit, and you will have to constantly charge your battery w/o the audio on. A lot of people assume you can run it, and instead *think* they do, because it is 'loud'. So instead they blindly run it underpowered and won't ever actually get full power.
The only real solution is to upgrade the power source, the alternator. Caps/batteries are just a drain on your system, because they will be constantly charging, pulling precious amps you don't already have enough of.
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