B&M Shifter Deal!!
10-11-2004, 03:30 PM
#1
B&M Shifter Deal!!
Hey guys and gals! I've had tons of requests for a deal on B&M shifters so here's one for you. Prices are in the link below and the Maxima shifters are all in stock and will ship as we receive orders. If you have any other questions, give me a call or post up here! 
http://store.dragracing.com/gb/bmracing.asp
Thanks,
Steve
http://store.dragracing.com/gb/bmracing.asp
Thanks,
Steve
10-12-2004, 10:14 AM
#6
Originally Posted by Komax
The one pictured is not the actual model for Maximas is it? I thought the B&M came with the ball housing as well. Can you confirm?
I am VERY interested. I'm sick of Pacesetter.
I am VERY interested. I'm sick of Pacesetter.
10-13-2004, 09:28 AM
#9
Originally Posted by frankieduxAE
wow your website has drastically improved 
i'm very temped to pick one up. i'll have to shop around.
i'm very temped to pick one up. i'll have to shop around.
10-15-2004, 10:56 AM
#11
Originally Posted by JMooney5115
Is the shifter pictured here the same one I will be getting if I order this one. Also how long should the instal take, and how hard is it on a scale from 1 to 10.
Link
Mooney
Link
Mooney
10-16-2004, 06:21 AM
#13
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 238
I ordered one this week. I am concerned with the position of the shifter being too far forward in gears 1-3-5, but I figured I wouldn't know if that would be a problem for me until I TRIED it (I don't know anyone with one I could try before I buy).
10-16-2004, 10:39 AM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,197
Originally Posted by haysdb
I ordered one this week. I am concerned with the position of the shifter being too far forward in gears 1-3-5, but I figured I wouldn't know if that would be a problem for me until I TRIED it (I don't know anyone with one I could try before I buy).
-Paul
---------------
96 SE 5speed i/y
14.762
93.8
10-18-2004, 02:57 PM
#16
Question about the ball...Is it aluminum or some type of metal? I also have the Pacesetter and am really tired of the notchy/stiff/almost impossible to shift resistance. Pacesetters ball is made of a hard plastic.
I'm looking at getting B&M's or even Stillens.
Thanks.
I'm looking at getting B&M's or even Stillens.
Thanks.
10-18-2004, 03:58 PM
#17
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 238
My B&M shifter arrived today.
The pivot point is a brass ball encapsulated in a delrin or polyurethan bushing. The pivot point is tight, smooth, and low friction. I wonder what form of lubrication should be used on the pivot ball, or if it would be a mistake to use anything at all? I'm almost thinking some sort of "dry" lubrication, like graphite?
The pivot "ball" sits about an inch above the factory location. This is what allows the B&M to be longer below the ball but not hit the heat shield above the catalytic converter. This should also contribute to improved "feel", not just because the joint is solid and precise, but because of the improved "geometry" vs an STS which uses the stock mounting hardware.
The quality of the components is impressive, and it's a shame it will all be covered up. The machined aluminum piece encapsulating the pivot ball is anodized blue. Ooooh, pretty.
The shaft does not have much of a bend to it, so they certainly haven't corrected THAT, and it's a pretty damn hefty piece of steel, so bending it ain't going to be easy. OTOH, if it CAN be bent, I should be able to find a place to do it. Wichita is home to several aircraft companies (Boeing, Lear Jet, Cessna, etal.), so there are lots of "subcontractors" with the humongous pieces of machinery necessary to do that kind of thing.
The shift **** included in the package is not like any I have seen in the pictures. It is a heavyish aluminum BALL, roughly 1 7/8" in diameter. I might even give it a try. The B&M logo in the top of the ball is a separate insert, so the ball can be tightened down all the way and then the logo inserted in the top of the ball for proper orientation. It's a nice design, although I'd rather they just sell the ball separately and deduct that from the price of the kit, since I suspect most people aren't going to use the shift ****, and it's not a cheap piece. If I like the ball, but not the shiny aluminum finish, I might get it powder coated or anodized black. Don't know how much that would cost, but again, lots of places around to do stuff like that.
David
The pivot point is a brass ball encapsulated in a delrin or polyurethan bushing. The pivot point is tight, smooth, and low friction. I wonder what form of lubrication should be used on the pivot ball, or if it would be a mistake to use anything at all? I'm almost thinking some sort of "dry" lubrication, like graphite?
The pivot "ball" sits about an inch above the factory location. This is what allows the B&M to be longer below the ball but not hit the heat shield above the catalytic converter. This should also contribute to improved "feel", not just because the joint is solid and precise, but because of the improved "geometry" vs an STS which uses the stock mounting hardware.
The quality of the components is impressive, and it's a shame it will all be covered up. The machined aluminum piece encapsulating the pivot ball is anodized blue. Ooooh, pretty.
The shaft does not have much of a bend to it, so they certainly haven't corrected THAT, and it's a pretty damn hefty piece of steel, so bending it ain't going to be easy. OTOH, if it CAN be bent, I should be able to find a place to do it. Wichita is home to several aircraft companies (Boeing, Lear Jet, Cessna, etal.), so there are lots of "subcontractors" with the humongous pieces of machinery necessary to do that kind of thing.
The shift **** included in the package is not like any I have seen in the pictures. It is a heavyish aluminum BALL, roughly 1 7/8" in diameter. I might even give it a try. The B&M logo in the top of the ball is a separate insert, so the ball can be tightened down all the way and then the logo inserted in the top of the ball for proper orientation. It's a nice design, although I'd rather they just sell the ball separately and deduct that from the price of the kit, since I suspect most people aren't going to use the shift ****, and it's not a cheap piece. If I like the ball, but not the shiny aluminum finish, I might get it powder coated or anodized black. Don't know how much that would cost, but again, lots of places around to do stuff like that.
David
10-18-2004, 04:13 PM
#18
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 238
BTW, one point where there COULD be some friction introduced is the bottom of the shifter, where it attaches to the linkage leading to the transmission. There are two delrin washers on each side, which is perfect, but the "bushings" inside that bottom piece are brass. However, these bushings are slit along their length, so even if they expand, they should not get any tighter.
No, if there is any "notchiness" to this shifter, it'll be in the transmission rather than the shifter, and in the fact that it is a short-throw shifter, with a slightly shorter height, and therefore provides less "leverage" than the stock shifter.
And finally, I wonder if this is the precise same design as B&M has had all along, or whether they have improved some of the components? Otherwise I don't think I understand some of the comments that have been made about this shifter. OTOH, I haven't actually INSTALLED it yet!
No, if there is any "notchiness" to this shifter, it'll be in the transmission rather than the shifter, and in the fact that it is a short-throw shifter, with a slightly shorter height, and therefore provides less "leverage" than the stock shifter.
And finally, I wonder if this is the precise same design as B&M has had all along, or whether they have improved some of the components? Otherwise I don't think I understand some of the comments that have been made about this shifter. OTOH, I haven't actually INSTALLED it yet!
Just ordered it...... I hope install isnt hard....
10-22-2004, 12:27 AM
#25
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 238
The installation instructions say nothing about lubricating the ball. The joint with no lubrication is extremely smooth, very low in friction. My educated guess is that it does not need to be lubricated. If one WERE to use some lubrication, it should be something rather light weight since the tolerances are very tight.
Just my opinion. I don't KNOW anything.
Just my opinion. I don't KNOW anything.
10-23-2004, 10:59 AM
#28
had my B&M for a couple of months now, and I have to say this is probably the best non performance mod that I have done. there is no notchiness(at least I dont notice it), it doesn't hit the dash when in 1, 3, or 5, and install wasn't too difficult. you will just need another person up top when installing the shifter to install the mounting hardware and that is it(well it makes for an easier install). on top of that, I used my factory **** to keep the factory appearance.
I dont notice the short throw anymore, but I feel if I go with a shorter throw than the B&M then probs could ensue from spirited driving.
I dont notice the short throw anymore, but I feel if I go with a shorter throw than the B&M then probs could ensue from spirited driving.
10-23-2004, 06:46 PM
#29
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 238
I wouldn't want less throw. In fact, I'd prefer a little more, but that's just me. I'd also DEFINITELY prefer a little more bend in the lever, in order to bring the lever closer. It's a shame they couldn't see their way clear to offer different models for each car, rather than one that's probably a compromise for ALL of the models it is supposed to fit. 
10-28-2004, 07:50 AM
#30
I ordered it and had it installed on Tues. Comparing the B&M to the Pacesetter is like comparing a Mercedes to a Kia. The shifts are now smooth, no grinding, no notchiness, just perfection! This is a must do for those who decided to go the cheaper route with the Pacesetter/SMC.
Thanks SWA!!!
Thanks SWA!!!
10-31-2004, 01:30 AM
#34
Okay... So the bolt that connects the shifter and the connecting rod to the tranny is not coming out. It spins in there like it is loose, but does not unthread. I noticed on the other side there is this tiny 1/4 thickness of a bolt head, so I tried turning both, and the small side just pops off.... the wrench wont stay on. Any Suggestions on getting that off.
Also, I tried removing the two bolts that hold the whole assembly to the car. They began to loosen, but then the bolts on top (inside of the car where the boot covered) started to move with the turning of the wrench.. so they wont come off. The top of these bolts are like studs, so i cant hold them in place with a socket, cause obviously a socket wont fit. HELP!
I head the hard part was getting the y-pipe off, I beg to differ.... this is so annoying, my car is sitting out there all messed up over night, I REALLY need some input because I have to get this running by Monday. I cant even tighten these things back up cause the slip....
PLEASE HELP
thanks
Jeff
Also, I tried removing the two bolts that hold the whole assembly to the car. They began to loosen, but then the bolts on top (inside of the car where the boot covered) started to move with the turning of the wrench.. so they wont come off. The top of these bolts are like studs, so i cant hold them in place with a socket, cause obviously a socket wont fit. HELP!
I head the hard part was getting the y-pipe off, I beg to differ.... this is so annoying, my car is sitting out there all messed up over night, I REALLY need some input because I have to get this running by Monday. I cant even tighten these things back up cause the slip....
PLEASE HELP
thanks
Jeff
