MaxedOut

iTrader: (4)

are the bolts supposed to be smaller fthan stock so the camber can be changed?

my mechanic says its too small.. and i don't know what to do since my camber in the front wheels are WAY off

Left whheel = -2.88
Right Wheel = -1.25

so i bought the eibach alignment bolts.. and gave it to them.. well they said that the bolts are too small...

i don't know what do make of this.. any idea's?

what should i tell them?

ejj

iTrader: (5)

I noticed the same thing about a year ago when I bought camber bolts. They seemed way to small...so I just tossed them and never installed them. I just assumed that I got bolts for a Sentra or something.

Sorry this isn't any help.

VeeQueue

iTrader: (1)

I'm running them right now. They are suppose to be smaller to give you that range of correction. Part number on the box is 5.81250K. Part number on the bag itself is 5.81250.

VeeQueue

iTrader: (1)

Here's a pic of the bolt installed. You can spot the bolt's alignment tab in the pic.

MaxedOut

iTrader: (4)

yes i know its smaller to give a range of correction.. but8 when we put the bolt in.. it would just slip around.. we couldnt even tighten it..

the wheeel felt really loose.. i dont know... grrr

VeeQueue

iTrader: (1)

?

Which of the two bolts did he replace? Top? Bottom? Both? Which bolt did he tighten first?

If you bought the correct part # i'm sure the bolts are correct. Here's a pic of the bolts side-by-side.

MaxedOut

iTrader: (4)

mine looks exactly liek that--

he took off the top bolt first..a and showed me the fact that when he put int he blot.. it would just move around.. and he felt that if he put it in.. that the wheel would move

my part on the bag says 5.81250

VeeQueue

iTrader: (1)

Fix the left side only. Its better to get the left side number as close to the right's as possible to eliminate camber pull. If you try to zero-out the right side then you'll still experience camber-pull. Also, do not try to adjust the camber setting with the car on the alignment rack. You will only ensure that your camber bolts will loosen later on. Install and secure the camber bolt while the car is on stands or lifts. The final readout isn't important because your camber is too severe already. Its a given that you need the maximum correction available.

This is what I did:

Put car on stands. Remove the wheel. Remove the upper strut to knuckle bolt. Loosen the lower strut to knuckle bolt. Clean the mating surfaces of the strut flange where the upper strut to knuckle bolt used to be. Install the eibach bolt loosely. This is the important part: Add loctite red (threadlocker) or some other type of anaerobic sealant to the mating surfaces of the bolt, nut, both sides of the aligment tab ring, and the outward-facing strut mounting flanges. Its up to you to put it on the threads itself. Don't put it between the inward-facing surfaces of the strut mounting flange and the steering knuckle itself or you'll regret it the next time you need to remove the knuckle.

Since all you want is to keep the nut/bolt from shifting, its best to put the loctite where I just described. Pull the top of the knuckle towards you and push the bottom part away from you. This will give you slightly more postive camber. Make sure the eibach bolt's alignment tab is facing towards you like it is in the above picture I provided (thats for maximum positive correction). Tighten the lower strut to knuckle bolt to spec (105 or so ft-lb). Keep an eye on the camber bolt while you tighten the lower one. Then tighten the eibach camber bolt. Slowly tighten it because the aligment tab will shift. When its snug to the point that it doesn't shift, finish it off with the torque wrench set at 55lb-ft. Leave the car on the stands/lift for 1/2 hr or so to let the loctite (or whatever anaerobic sealant you use) to cure. Then install the wheel and put the car on the rack to adjust the toe.

If you need to remove the camber bolt in the future just apply some heat onto the bolt and it will weaken the threadlocker's hold.