Lower rad Crossmember rust FIX
#1
Lower rad Crossmember rust FIX
So i fixed that lower rad rust problem today. and ill be putting up some pics soon of it and if anyone needs this work done let me know
If you have trouble seeing the pictures. hold Ctrl on your keyboard and use the scroller on the mouse to adjust the screen size
If you have trouble seeing the pictures. hold Ctrl on your keyboard and use the scroller on the mouse to adjust the screen size
Last edited by NJ3ndri; 12-19-2010 at 06:24 PM.
#4
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Good job, looks nice & I'm def impressed. I also fix a bunch of these for $450 out the door but with a new oem support, yours can be fixed that way but just a heads up not all of them can, I have done several that were much worse, I'm talking broken into three pieces & rotted the tabs off for the radiator so it was being held by the hoses and usually some sort of zip-tye etc to the upper support.
#5
Good job, looks nice & I'm def impressed. I also fix a bunch of these for $450 out the door but with a new oem support, yours can be fixed that way but just a heads up not all of them can, I have done several that were much worse, I'm talking broken into three pieces & rotted the tabs off for the radiator so it was being held by the hoses and usually some sort of zip-tye etc to the upper support.
i know what you mean ive seen some. one of my friends from boston (alot of salty roads) has an i30 thats completley rotted. the hood cant even stay shut anymore. i was going to replace the whole rad support for him but didnt really have much time to do it. the one from the pic is actually my first fix up i did with a friend. i didnt really approach it the way i wanted to and came up with some better and cleaner ideas after i was done. i might eventually have to redo it but it doesnt seem to be having any problems. i have a 3.5 swapped 4th gen and i give it a little bit of gas here and there, so if its gonna break i wanna know what the breaking point is. so far nothing
#6
nissan wanted 139 i think for the lower rad support (OEM) on courtesyparts.com . i was on a little bit of tight budget and only spent about 15 bucks tops on the angled iron.(which im not going to use anymore seeing as to how my welder cant really penetrate it too good). i use a mig and not a tig. so for the next fix ill be using steel instead of iron
#15
My 2000 looks the same way. I'm assuming that's why I'm getting excessive engine movement since the front mount attaches to the rear of the lower crossmember and is flexing under load. Gotta get it replaced asap....
#16
Definately. I replaced my lower support last weekend with the OEM part from Courtesy and I can say without reservation that my engine is a lot more solid now.
#17
How much does Courtesy want for them? About how difficult and how much time did it take you to do it? The dealership I work at is opening up a new bodyshop so I can get it done for a good deal if it looks like it's going to be too much for me to do.
#18
i think its like 130. its really not that hard
#20
#23
Ah. I just used regular titanium bits for a pilot hole, then my titanium unibit to bore out the hole until it was bigger than the weld. Also worked fine.
Ya, most of the front end had to be removed. Condenser had to be moved out of the way a bit, not necessarily removed.
Ya, most of the front end had to be removed. Condenser had to be moved out of the way a bit, not necessarily removed.
#25
This will be project number two. I have to get the radiator replaced and get her back on the road then got to all the body shops in the area and see what it will cost me. My guess is any where from $ 700 to $1000. The support is the most important part of the car. Holding the front and rear engine mounts and that is where I jack the car up at. the last oil change it was making crushing sounds.
#26
This will be project number two. I have to get the radiator replaced and get her back on the road then got to all the body shops in the area and see what it will cost me. My guess is any where from $ 700 to $1000. The support is the most important part of the car. Holding the front and rear engine mounts and that is where I jack the car up at. the last oil change it was making crushing sounds.
#30
The existing one is spot welded on. Plenty of members have replaced it and allowed the bolts to hold it in - it's pretty damn sturdy this way, but still not to OEM spec. Personal preference, really.
#31
#34
#36
#39
#40
not difficult at all. just time consuming. and yes i bought this at lowes. home depot should have it too. but i recommend steel instead of iron. it took alot to get this thing to weld
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