warantee on the KYB AGX???
#1
warantee on the KYB AGX???
hey guys, I know the Koni has lifetime warantee, what about KYB AGX? what kind of warantee does it have, because if the shocks go in 2 years and there is no warantee, what are you going to do??? I'm thinking of getting the KYB's that's why I'm asking
Konstantin
thanks for any help
Konstantin
thanks for any help
#6
wooooouuuuu! this is craziness, i just installed my b+g and kyb agx's. five hours not including the breaks i took.
Well finally i m done with complete tied suspension. My car just sits during turns. Feels weird sometimes, but i'll get used to it. All i can say is get the agx's, set it to 2/4 and get ready to bring curves (on road only )and high speed together. warranty on agx's is life time as long as you do not lower the car more than 1.5".
Well finally i m done with complete tied suspension. My car just sits during turns. Feels weird sometimes, but i'll get used to it. All i can say is get the agx's, set it to 2/4 and get ready to bring curves (on road only )and high speed together. warranty on agx's is life time as long as you do not lower the car more than 1.5".
#7
Originally posted by DhaMax
wooooouuuuu! this is craziness, i just installed my b+g and kyb agx's. five hours not including the breaks i took.
Well finally i m done with complete tied suspension. My car just sits during turns. Feels weird sometimes, but i'll get used to it. All i can say is get the agx's, set it to 2/4 and get ready to bring curves (on road only )and high speed together. warranty on agx's is life time as long as you do not lower the car more than 1.5".
wooooouuuuu! this is craziness, i just installed my b+g and kyb agx's. five hours not including the breaks i took.
Well finally i m done with complete tied suspension. My car just sits during turns. Feels weird sometimes, but i'll get used to it. All i can say is get the agx's, set it to 2/4 and get ready to bring curves (on road only )and high speed together. warranty on agx's is life time as long as you do not lower the car more than 1.5".
#10
Originally posted by Vinipux
how would they find out if you had your car lowered more than 1.5 inches?
how would they find out if you had your car lowered more than 1.5 inches?
#11
Originally posted by matt calder
they can probably tell by looking at it. Lowering more that 1.5 would put to much stress on the struts and make them fail....just a guess
they can probably tell by looking at it. Lowering more that 1.5 would put to much stress on the struts and make them fail....just a guess
#12
Originally posted by Vinipux
REALLY??? you're telling me that a smooth 2.5 inch drop will have more stress than a bumpy 1.5 inch drop??? I don't think so
REALLY??? you're telling me that a smooth 2.5 inch drop will have more stress than a bumpy 1.5 inch drop??? I don't think so
#13
Originally posted by AndyXXL
What are you talking about? The lower your car sits the more stress you put on shocks. It doesn't matter if you ride is smooth or bumpy.
What are you talking about? The lower your car sits the more stress you put on shocks. It doesn't matter if you ride is smooth or bumpy.
#14
Originally posted by Vinipux
HELLO, what would give you more stress, me putting a 10 lbs weight on your stomach when you're laying down, or dopping that 10 lbs at 20 mph on your stomach????? come on andrey, you should know who you're talking too
HELLO, what would give you more stress, me putting a 10 lbs weight on your stomach when you're laying down, or dopping that 10 lbs at 20 mph on your stomach????? come on andrey, you should know who you're talking too
#15
whoahhhhhh chillllll guys!!!!! I just have the safe, comfy drop with the H&R's, so I'm not worried. They are good springs too; really feel nice even with the suspension trying to bounce. I believe that the greater the drop, the more stress you put directly on the shocks/struts.
#16
Originally posted by Vinipux
REALLY??? you're telling me that a smooth 2.5 inch drop will have more stress than a bumpy 1.5 inch drop??? I don't think so
REALLY??? you're telling me that a smooth 2.5 inch drop will have more stress than a bumpy 1.5 inch drop??? I don't think so
Andy:
#17
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
The shorter the suspension travel is (DROP) the more SPRING FORCE is needed in order to keep the car's suspension from bottoming out. To achieve less travel, the spring need to put more force out. Sport springs are stronger then OE springs and do put more force out that a shock needs to be able to dampen and control.
Example, OE suspension - you hit a dip, the spring can compress perhaps 2 - 3 inches, then rebound nice and smooth. Nice and easy for the struts/shocks.
Sport springs - you hit that same dip, the spring need to put more force out in order for you NOT to compress the spring 2 - 3 inches, teh sport spring only lets you compress 1.5 inches. This greater force pushes hard to resist the compression but also pushes up MUCH harder then OE springs. I believe the upward force is called JOUNCE? Someone correct me if I'm wrong here. So the shocks/struts need to be able to control the excess force sport springs put out.
Any performance shop will confirm that sport springs put out more force then OE equipment. Otherwise our cars would ride exactly the same with shorter/sport springs as they do on OE springs. And we all know thats not true at all.
Example, OE suspension - you hit a dip, the spring can compress perhaps 2 - 3 inches, then rebound nice and smooth. Nice and easy for the struts/shocks.
Sport springs - you hit that same dip, the spring need to put more force out in order for you NOT to compress the spring 2 - 3 inches, teh sport spring only lets you compress 1.5 inches. This greater force pushes hard to resist the compression but also pushes up MUCH harder then OE springs. I believe the upward force is called JOUNCE? Someone correct me if I'm wrong here. So the shocks/struts need to be able to control the excess force sport springs put out.
Any performance shop will confirm that sport springs put out more force then OE equipment. Otherwise our cars would ride exactly the same with shorter/sport springs as they do on OE springs. And we all know thats not true at all.
#18
Originally posted by njmaxseltd
The shorter the suspension travel is (DROP) the more SPRING FORCE is needed in order to keep the car's suspension from bottoming out. To achieve less travel, the spring need to put more force out. Sport springs are stronger then OE springs and do put more force out that a shock needs to be able to dampen and control.
Example, OE suspension - you hit a dip, the spring can compress perhaps 2 - 3 inches, then rebound nice and smooth. Nice and easy for the struts/shocks.
Sport springs - you hit that same dip, the spring need to put more force out in order for you NOT to compress the spring 2 - 3 inches, teh sport spring only lets you compress 1.5 inches. This greater force pushes hard to resist the compression but also pushes up MUCH harder then OE springs. I believe the upward force is called JOUNCE? Someone correct me if I'm wrong here. So the shocks/struts need to be able to control the excess force sport springs put out.
I believe the term is REBOUND but I have heard jounce used before also. You're right though you need stronger struts (IN GENERAL) to compensate for stronger spring rates.
Any performance shop will confirm that sport springs put out more force then OE equipment. Otherwise our cars would ride exactly the same with shorter/sport springs as they do on OE springs. And we all know thats not true at all.
The shorter the suspension travel is (DROP) the more SPRING FORCE is needed in order to keep the car's suspension from bottoming out. To achieve less travel, the spring need to put more force out. Sport springs are stronger then OE springs and do put more force out that a shock needs to be able to dampen and control.
Example, OE suspension - you hit a dip, the spring can compress perhaps 2 - 3 inches, then rebound nice and smooth. Nice and easy for the struts/shocks.
Sport springs - you hit that same dip, the spring need to put more force out in order for you NOT to compress the spring 2 - 3 inches, teh sport spring only lets you compress 1.5 inches. This greater force pushes hard to resist the compression but also pushes up MUCH harder then OE springs. I believe the upward force is called JOUNCE? Someone correct me if I'm wrong here. So the shocks/struts need to be able to control the excess force sport springs put out.
I believe the term is REBOUND but I have heard jounce used before also. You're right though you need stronger struts (IN GENERAL) to compensate for stronger spring rates.
Any performance shop will confirm that sport springs put out more force then OE equipment. Otherwise our cars would ride exactly the same with shorter/sport springs as they do on OE springs. And we all know thats not true at all.
#19
Originally posted by DhaMax
wooooouuuuu! this is craziness, i just installed my b+g and kyb agx's. five hours not including the breaks i took.
Well finally i m done with complete tied suspension. My car just sits during turns. Feels weird sometimes, but i'll get used to it. All i can say is get the agx's, set it to 2/4 and get ready to bring curves (on road only )and high speed together. warranty on agx's is life time as long as you do not lower the car more than 1.5".
wooooouuuuu! this is craziness, i just installed my b+g and kyb agx's. five hours not including the breaks i took.
Well finally i m done with complete tied suspension. My car just sits during turns. Feels weird sometimes, but i'll get used to it. All i can say is get the agx's, set it to 2/4 and get ready to bring curves (on road only )and high speed together. warranty on agx's is life time as long as you do not lower the car more than 1.5".
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