Oil Filter Relocation a Success
06-12-2006, 08:55 AM
#1
Oil Filter Relocation a Success
Are you bored and need something to do? Do you not like being under the car too much? Or are you like me and have traction bars that beat the living out of your oil filter? Here's a little something for you...
I asked about a month or more ago if anyone had relocated their oil filter and got no answer. So I just did it myself and here you go..
I bought this kit from www.thepartsbin.com, I found it under 2002Max. For some reason its not listed under any 4th gen or even 5th gen. http://oem.thepartsbin.com/parts/the...ousing&dp=true
Those are 45* 1/2" fittings from AceHardware. The fitting closer to the front was repalced by 2 90* fittings. One that ended up pointing straight down, then the other that ended up pointing towards the front (perfect). I had do do that because when the car was dropped back, the fitting made the rubber line point right into the traction bar and it was making a pressure point on it... I wasnt comfortable with that, but the 2 90* fittings worked just fine.
The lines are ziptied to the traction bar at its midway point, then ziptied to an AC hardline next to the radiator to keep them from touching the radiator hose, then ziptied to the low pressure AC line to take up some of the slack.
(Dont mind the metal cylinder with hose coming out of it and blue wires by the filter. That's the compressor for the air horn trumpets and the wiring is for the relay just below it)
I must say, this location for the oil filter is so much more convenient, just place a rag under it to prevent oil from fallin down onto the body (if you've ever changed the oil on a BMW, same thing, only thing that needs to be done under the car is the drain plug).
Another thing, if you do this, USE A MOBIL 1 OR OEM FILTER, since those have the anti-drainback valve in them. Having 8ft of lines for the oil to travel makes for a nasty dry-start for a second or two.
It just so happened that the coolant overflow tank braket worked perfect to mount this kit. The problem is that now I have no place to mount the tank itself
. For now I zip tied it in the air bet'n the motor and the battery on the other side, hahaha. S/C'ed guys mount it right behind the battery, but I have my air filter right there, so no good. Im gonna order a battery relocation kit next week so I can mount it there.
BTW, the tracion bar is exactly about 2mm away from the 90* fitting. Kinda close to me but the bar doesnt move side to side. I drove around, took hard turns, u turns, drivig over bumps, and contact never took place, so w00 h00.
Later on I want to replace the rubber lines with s/s, but for now they work just fine. I just keep an eye on them. BTW, I used silicone for thread, AND teflon tape for all the fittings. No leaks :-D
Brought to j00 by the SW of SFMG... Calle Ocho baby!
I asked about a month or more ago if anyone had relocated their oil filter and got no answer. So I just did it myself and here you go..
I bought this kit from www.thepartsbin.com, I found it under 2002Max. For some reason its not listed under any 4th gen or even 5th gen. http://oem.thepartsbin.com/parts/the...ousing&dp=true
Those are 45* 1/2" fittings from AceHardware. The fitting closer to the front was repalced by 2 90* fittings. One that ended up pointing straight down, then the other that ended up pointing towards the front (perfect). I had do do that because when the car was dropped back, the fitting made the rubber line point right into the traction bar and it was making a pressure point on it... I wasnt comfortable with that, but the 2 90* fittings worked just fine.
The lines are ziptied to the traction bar at its midway point, then ziptied to an AC hardline next to the radiator to keep them from touching the radiator hose, then ziptied to the low pressure AC line to take up some of the slack.
(Dont mind the metal cylinder with hose coming out of it and blue wires by the filter. That's the compressor for the air horn trumpets and the wiring is for the relay just below it)
I must say, this location for the oil filter is so much more convenient, just place a rag under it to prevent oil from fallin down onto the body (if you've ever changed the oil on a BMW, same thing, only thing that needs to be done under the car is the drain plug).
Another thing, if you do this, USE A MOBIL 1 OR OEM FILTER, since those have the anti-drainback valve in them. Having 8ft of lines for the oil to travel makes for a nasty dry-start for a second or two.
It just so happened that the coolant overflow tank braket worked perfect to mount this kit. The problem is that now I have no place to mount the tank itself
. For now I zip tied it in the air bet'n the motor and the battery on the other side, hahaha. S/C'ed guys mount it right behind the battery, but I have my air filter right there, so no good. Im gonna order a battery relocation kit next week so I can mount it there.BTW, the tracion bar is exactly about 2mm away from the 90* fitting. Kinda close to me but the bar doesnt move side to side. I drove around, took hard turns, u turns, drivig over bumps, and contact never took place, so w00 h00.
Later on I want to replace the rubber lines with s/s, but for now they work just fine. I just keep an eye on them. BTW, I used silicone for thread, AND teflon tape for all the fittings. No leaks :-D
Brought to j00 by the SW of SFMG... Calle Ocho baby!
hell naw, good work. dont forget to plug that sensor back in.
06-12-2006, 09:35 AM
#4
Good job, I like it, now I can go back and put those traction bars back on.
We need to stickie this thread with some traction bar stuff along with it. It'll help all traction bar buyers.
We need to stickie this thread with some traction bar stuff along with it. It'll help all traction bar buyers.
06-12-2006, 10:13 AM
#5
I might end up doing this eventually, thanks for locating the correct parts for us. 
BTW, did you bolt the traction bar on the outter or inner side of the plate? And does your right tire rub at full left turn? Did you use washers to space out the bar from the plate?
As for the dry start, next time you change the filter, you might want to take a small funnel and pour some oil in the lines then install the filter. I wonder how much mess the oil filter will make when removing them for replacement?
BTW, did you bolt the traction bar on the outter or inner side of the plate? And does your right tire rub at full left turn? Did you use washers to space out the bar from the plate?
As for the dry start, next time you change the filter, you might want to take a small funnel and pour some oil in the lines then install the filter. I wonder how much mess the oil filter will make when removing them for replacement?
06-12-2006, 02:52 PM
#8
I would have put it in where the opening is facing up. I like it though. Alot better than taking off the wheel and doing it. Of course even just that is better than my 88's Oil filter location. I like what you did. Very cool. This is a worthy post. Havent seen a post like this in a while.
06-12-2006, 04:39 PM
#9
Originally Posted by DR-Max
I might end up doing this eventually, thanks for locating the correct parts for us.
BTW, did you bolt the traction bar on the outter or inner side of the plate? And does your right tire rub at full left turn? Did you use washers to space out the bar from the plate?
As for the dry start, next time you change the filter, you might want to take a small funnel and pour some oil in the lines then install the filter. I wonder how much mess the oil filter will make when removing them for replacement?
BTW, did you bolt the traction bar on the outter or inner side of the plate? And does your right tire rub at full left turn? Did you use washers to space out the bar from the plate?
As for the dry start, next time you change the filter, you might want to take a small funnel and pour some oil in the lines then install the filter. I wonder how much mess the oil filter will make when removing them for replacement?
I did in fact pour oil into the lines before screwing the oil filter in. The problem is however, that when I come back home at night, and I go start it the next morning, whatever oil was in the filter and lines at the time of my arrival has settled back down to the oil pan. That's why I recommend to use an oil filter such as OEM that has the anti-drainback valve. Flipping the oil filter mount would also help, since the oil filter will remain full of oil. Well since the oil settles to the pan after a while, just wait a good 15mins before removing it and place a rag or old tshirt under it to soak up w/e drips off.
06-12-2006, 04:41 PM
#10
Originally Posted by zack342
Nice work. Would you mind taking pics of the setup with the 90 degree fittings. If using this kit do you need to increase the oil capacity?
06-12-2006, 06:16 PM
#11
Thanks for confirming the tire rubbing issue. I have had mine computer aligned several months before installing the traction bars so I'm not sure if it is alignment related. I looked under the car to compare tire clearance from the traction bars when the wheels are turned all the way to the right vs. left. When the wheels are turned all the way to the right, there's about an inch gap. When turned all the way to the left, the gap is way less. 
BTW, since I posted the install pics, I have replaced the nuts with three 1/4" washers because the tires were rubbing really bad. Now it doesn't rub as much and it gives me a bit more turn before it starts to rub. The 3 washers amount to about half the thickness of a nut.
BTW, since I posted the install pics, I have replaced the nuts with three 1/4" washers because the tires were rubbing really bad. Now it doesn't rub as much and it gives me a bit more turn before it starts to rub. The 3 washers amount to about half the thickness of a nut.
Originally Posted by 95BLKMAX
I installed them just like you did, spaced out the bars with a nut, bars are on the outside of the plates (thanks again for having posted up your install pix). And yes my right tire rubs when I turn full left, funny how the inverse doesnt happen whe I turn full right, perhaps its an alignment issue.
I did in fact pour oil into the lines before screwing the oil filter in. The problem is however, that when I come back home at night, and I go start it the next morning, whatever oil was in the filter and lines at the time of my arrival has settled back down to the oil pan. That's why I recommend to use an oil filter such as OEM that has the anti-drainback valve. Flipping the oil filter mount would also help, since the oil filter will remain full of oil. Well since the oil settles to the pan after a while, just wait a good 15mins before removing it and place a rag or old tshirt under it to soak up w/e drips off.
I did in fact pour oil into the lines before screwing the oil filter in. The problem is however, that when I come back home at night, and I go start it the next morning, whatever oil was in the filter and lines at the time of my arrival has settled back down to the oil pan. That's why I recommend to use an oil filter such as OEM that has the anti-drainback valve. Flipping the oil filter mount would also help, since the oil filter will remain full of oil. Well since the oil settles to the pan after a while, just wait a good 15mins before removing it and place a rag or old tshirt under it to soak up w/e drips off.
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