Dynoed the PFI Turbo kit tonight 325.83HP & 308.69 lbs of torque AF 10.5:1
10-25-2003, 04:42 PM
#41
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Originally Posted by bijan gxe
Jaime, you DO know when we were on I-20 last week you were smokin pretty bad right? It was dark blue.....
I know what that is, I will take care of that next week. It is a slow project like the supercharger was.
maximarider, I knew youd end up doing it. Now thats just less work for you to do when you finally get to it
10-25-2003, 04:46 PM
#43
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Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Yeah but how many motors has Hal gone though. Better rich than sorry Jay! Better to blow some black smoke than some headgaskets/piston rings!
, there you go. I am in an unpredictable situation. Once I feel comfortable with this turbo, Ill move on to the bigger numbers. For now, 325 is more then enough HP for me. As you can see as I leaned the fuel my numbers climbed over 15HP. I could have squeezed more, just a bit too nervous.
10-25-2003, 04:51 PM
#44
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Originally Posted by Redmax
hey jay how is it possible that u are pushing this much hp on stock injector and still rich? i thought we could only get close to 300 on stock injectors before we would be maxing the injectors out
I am not BSing you in any way. I am on stock injectors. I am still rich and very clueless as to what the hell is going on. Thats why they said your rich up top lean out some more. I was like no I am not. But I know my car very well. It cant be rich up top. The only thing I can think that may make it run rich is the fact that the MAF is on the noncharged side. I believe that ambient sensor has a lot to do with that. In any case 10.5 to one is fine with me. If I spike one full PSI 10.7-11PSI, rich will cover that spike up top. I was very nervous last night. My EGTs dropped. Usually on the freeway they get close to 800Celsius. ON my way back I was @ 700-720. Driving the same speed.
For you turbo guys that have a Vortech FMU 8:1 disc, and the walbro fuel pump. I am more then willing to post my SAFC setting numbers.
10-25-2003, 06:18 PM
#46
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Originally Posted by 2KxSEx
Jay,
Are you using an EBC?
Are you using an EBC?
Yes I had to buy one. 6PSI aint ****. I was going to get a regular $40 BC. Ran into this WRX guy who sold me his Blitz SBC-ID EBC. I went from 6 to 8 in one minute. Took one spin, not enough boost. Told Ramius83 turn it up some more. 8.5, not enough 9 not enough 9.5 getting there. Last meet I decided 9.7 and ooh boy that put a fat smile on my face.
10-26-2003, 01:53 AM
#51
Just been reading about all these cars being turbocharged and then look at the turn around of those turboed cars blowing engines. What's the ratio of turboed cars against turboed cars with blown engines. From my reading I haven't seen a SC car blowing any engines. I am really thinking are cars are not to be turboed without getting the proper internals. Go look at the difference from a VQ30DET piston from japan from our VQ30DE pistons. Prove me wrong.
10-26-2003, 03:52 AM
#52
Originally Posted by MyownNismo
Just been reading about all these cars being turbocharged and then look at the turn around of those turboed cars blowing engines. What's the ratio of turboed cars against turboed cars with blown engines. From my reading I haven't seen a SC car blowing any engines. I am really thinking are cars are not to be turboed without getting the proper internals. Go look at the difference from a VQ30DET piston from japan from our VQ30DE pistons. Prove me wrong.
10-26-2003, 05:00 AM
#53
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Originally Posted by spanishrice
I just think out cars have not gotten the right amount of tuning yet, and 99% of people do not know how to tune a turbo maxima. I am sure when people started boosting hondas they had the same problem.
tunning is one of the issues, but theres more to the story to that. MBC do spike up to 2PSI at any given time. I got a EBC because if it spikes the EBC the whole screen will blink RED. Thats one good feature like the Apexi EGT gauge. Another reason I went Electronic Boost controller if it does spike the EBC will decrease boost by .7 PSI. Something a manual boost controller wont do. Believe me learning from two to three turbo guys around me I sord of had an idea what to expect. Another thing I am not too familiar with is the spiking thing. Say I tune 12.1 and it spikes say 10.5PSI which may happen. I left the car at 10.5:1 if it does spike up top I may not be lean I just may be right at 13:1 around 6400RPMs because of the MEVI. With a spike I am somewhat covered with fuel and the EBC will decrease boost by .7PSI instantly.
One more thing, as I was turning up the boost, I was also turning up my SAFC settings to run rich up top. By looking at my SCer SAFC settings from my 10PSI supercharger I took a guess and estimated what numbers to plug in from the top of my head. Understanding boost from my previous supercharger setup has helped alot. I must have been doing something right to get my numbers up to 325HP by looking at all five charts.
10-26-2003, 05:21 AM
#54
Originally Posted by JAY25
tunning is one of the issues, but theres more to the story to that. MBC do spike up to 2PSI at any given time. I got a EBC because if it spikes the EBC the whole screen will blink RED. Thats one good feature like the Apexi EGT gauge. Another reason I went Electronic Boost controller if it does spike the EBC will decrease boost by .7 PSI. Something a manual boost controller wont do. Believe me learning from two to three turbo guys around me I sord of had an idea what to expect. Another thing I am not too familiar with is the spiking thing. Say I tune 12.1 and it spikes say 10.5PSI which may happen. I left the car at 10.5:1 if it does spike up top I may not be lean I just may be right at 13:1 around 6400RPMs because of the MEVI. With a spike I am somewhat covered with fuel and the EBC will decrease boost by .7PSI instantly.
One more thing, as I was turning up the boost, I was also turning up my SAFC settings to run rich up top. By looking at my SCer SAFC settings from my 10PSI supercharger I took a guess and estimated what numbers to plug in from the top of my head. Understanding boost from my previous supercharger setup has helped alot. I must have been doing something right to get my numbers up to 325HP by looking at all five charts.
10-26-2003, 06:03 AM
#55
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Originally Posted by MyownNismo
I am not doubting you I am not going to spend cash to watch my engine blow. Just like once I do start FI I am going to get a SC and do a 5spd swap cause I am not going to blow my auto tranny. I've seen Y2Kevse use his auto and worked fine but I am not going to take my chances. Good luck with all your tuning and hope you don't fall victim to a blown engine.
Ill be alright. I dont seek large 400HP numbers
with stock internals
10-26-2003, 06:47 AM
#56
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Originally Posted by Redmax
hey jay how is it possible that u are pushing this much hp on stock injector and still rich? i thought we could only get close to 300 on stock injectors before we would be maxing the injectors out
Redmax, I just took a closer look at one of your pics. Where does this hose go to under your hood? It is highlighted in yellow
10-26-2003, 07:02 AM
#57
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Originally Posted by JAY25
Redmax, I just took a closer look at one of your pics. Where does this hose go to under your hood? It is highlighted in yellow
Same thing with this picture, where is this hose connected to
10-26-2003, 07:08 AM
#58
The method of induction has nothing to do with blowing the motor. The people that have "blown" motors did not have their motors fail because of the strength of the internals, the motors blew because they ended up too lean. The internals of this motor will handle over 400hp without a problem, it's when people run too lean that motors blow.
The motor doesn't know whether the air is getting forced in there via turbocharger, supercharger, or nitrous, it makes absolutely no difference whatsoever. It's the fact that turbos are A) more efficient so they make more power with less boost pressure, and B) easier to get greedy with and go for that extra 1psi that the fuel system can't handle, they lean out and blow. It's got nothing to do with the method of induction.
The motor doesn't know whether the air is getting forced in there via turbocharger, supercharger, or nitrous, it makes absolutely no difference whatsoever. It's the fact that turbos are A) more efficient so they make more power with less boost pressure, and B) easier to get greedy with and go for that extra 1psi that the fuel system can't handle, they lean out and blow. It's got nothing to do with the method of induction.
10-26-2003, 08:35 AM
#59
Originally Posted by JAY25
Redmax, I just took a closer look at one of your pics. Where does this hose go to under your hood? It is highlighted in yellow
I hope thats not his turbo return line
because that would blow his engine nice numbers Jay
10-26-2003, 08:45 AM
#60
Originally Posted by MyownNismo
I am not doubting you I am not going to spend cash to watch my engine blow. Just like once I do start FI I am going to get a SC and do a 5spd swap cause I am not going to blow my auto tranny. I've seen Y2Kevse use his auto and worked fine but I am not going to take my chances. Good luck with all your tuning and hope you don't fall victim to a blown engine.
I've blown my engine.
It's due to ME, not the turbo.
And with ANY FI, you try and due things to prevent it, but it happens.
And if you can't accept a blown motor as a possibility, then don't do FI.
Again jay awesome numbers
And I'll take the 8:1 now
10-26-2003, 10:17 AM
#62
Originally Posted by MyownNismo
I am not doubting you I am not going to spend cash to watch my engine blow. Just like once I do start FI I am going to get a SC and do a 5spd swap cause I am not going to blow my auto tranny. I've seen Y2Kevse use his auto and worked fine but I am not going to take my chances. Good luck with all your tuning and hope you don't fall victim to a blown engine.
Why not do it right the first time and either build a race auto or manual. If you have a manual, keep it and build it. Same goes with the auto...
Just food for thought, folks.
10-26-2003, 10:30 AM
#63
Originally Posted by Quicksilver
I guarantee you'll end up doing damage to a manual tranny with any F/I setup (if you're using the stock tranny + a HD clutch). The difference in price between a built race auto tranny and a built race manual is negligable...
Why not do it right the first time and either build a race auto or manual. If you have a manual, keep it and build it. Same goes with the auto...
Just food for thought, folks.
Why not do it right the first time and either build a race auto or manual. If you have a manual, keep it and build it. Same goes with the auto...
Just food for thought, folks.
10-26-2003, 10:39 AM
#64
I am looking for about 350 horsepower when I do my turbo project in the summer, just trying to pick up as much knowledge as I can along the way. This is my first car and I was to do everything right.
10-26-2003, 10:41 AM
#65
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Originally Posted by SprintMax
I hope thats not his turbo return line because that would blow his engine
nice numbers Jay
because that would blow his engine nice numbers Jay
10-26-2003, 10:41 AM
#66
Originally Posted by Redmax
TADA!!!!! That's it!! That's it!!! That is the turbo return line!!!! 
what genious installed that? how is gravity suppose to push the oil back into the crank case if the turbo is lower?
10-26-2003, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Redmax
TADA!!!!! That's it!! That's it!!! That is the turbo return line!!!!
Your oil return is not suppose to go sidways and then up. When you turned your car off that oil is still inside the turbo. Your seals went bad. Some of that oil leaked into your Ypipe and possibly clogged your wastegate. It may have got stuck for a split second and boom you detonated. Theres no other way you could have detonated @ 6PSI. 6PSI is a joke. You could have tapped the front portion of the valve cover but draining into the crankcase breather
. That yellow maxima with that superseries BB turbo that wont last long with the return going upwards. Tap your upper oil pan and you will be just fine. I used a 8AN tapered fitting and a 90 degree bend.
10-26-2003, 11:01 AM
#69
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Originally Posted by SprintMax
what genious installed that? how is gravity suppose to push the oil back into the crank case if the turbo is lower?
some of the things you type are just very funny. I asked myself the same question. I never bothered to at pics of his set up until now. Some oil is left in there after he shuts off the car. But with the oil supposely draining into the crank vent. That thing gets so hot I am sure it ate up the seals very fast. Thats not the way Nigel designed the kit. And to prove that I found a picture when he first installed his turbo, this is the way it was designed. Now I dont know who took the short cut and did the crank vent return going upwards?In the below picture that rubber hose is going in a downward angle. I have seen in person.
10-26-2003, 12:59 PM
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You know what, I just stared more into the picture. The EGT gauge probe is on the down pipe. Nope it dont belong there either. You can place in one of two spots. You can place it in the rear section of the Ypipe right around the O2 sensor, or you can place it on one of the small headers exiting the engine. If you look at the apexi instructions thats where it belongs. You want to have it as close to the engine as possible to get the most accurate reading from exhaust exiting the engine.
not cracking or downing the kit. Just fix those two issues. The oil issue is priority redmax get that one fixed first to drain downwards not upwards.
not cracking or downing the kit. Just fix those two issues. The oil issue is priority redmax get that one fixed first to drain downwards not upwards.
