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Old 05-25-2009, 12:38 PM   #1
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Is a 1/2" Drive Ratchet THAT Useful?

I'm contemplating if I actually need this ratchet - so far I've done without and I've done alot of repairs on the Maxima. Can you guys tell me an instance where if you didn't have one, you would be stuck, noting what I use below.

Consider the following:
-I use a 1/2" Breaker Bar to loosen bolts
-I use 1/2" Drive torque wrenches to tighten
-I use a 3/8" Drive ratchet for removing stuff once broken by breaker, and tightening stuff (It's quite small and less clunky than 1/2")
-I use adapters to use my 1/2" Drive sockets with the 3/8" ratchet
-I use a 1/2" Drive impact wrench to remove most stuff

The price seems to have gone up on the Proto 1/2" drive stuff - but if I keep delaying it the price may KEEP going up.
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Old 05-25-2009, 01:06 PM   #2
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Seems like you have most of it covered. The only thing would be if you needed the extra leverage to break something off with the 1/2 drive ratchet. This would be if you could not fit the breaker bar where you need to go. Although, a simple solution is just to use a length of pipe and slip it over the 3/8 ratchet to get your extra leverage.

Pretty much the only scenario I could think of other than the ones that you listed.
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Old 06-02-2009, 02:12 AM   #3
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I never really use mine, 3/8" ratchet provides plenty of torque and is faster/more convenient. 1/2" breaker for toarks or my impact gun.

Better off putting the money towards a nice torque wrench or something
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Old 06-02-2009, 06:30 PM   #4
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Yeah thanks guys, that's what I thought too Gone....I just use my 3/8 with an adapter to use all my 1/2" sockets...and your right it's less clunky. And I have that 1/2" breaker bar. I just bought a 3/4" to 1/2" impact adapter - I think I may buy a 3/4" Impact Gun eventually....or a cheaper way would be to buy a 1" Flex Bar with another adapter maybe. The 1/2" impact gun I have can't break some stuff loose - it's only 425 ft-lbs burst.

It's tough to say if it's worth it or not. Do you guys think it's a waste of money to get a 2nd impact wrench 3/4? The one I'm looking at is about $379.99 CP 772H. 1000 ft-lbs burst.

Last edited by 1993-VG30E-GXE; 06-02-2009 at 06:33 PM.
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Old 06-02-2009, 11:16 PM   #5
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There's nothing on your car that should be over 250lb of torque. nothing.

Axle nuts are the highest torque part on the car, IIRC and they're aorund 180lb ft. I can still pull those off by hand..

That said, there's lots of places my 1/2" ratchet was handy, but not required. I have no problem sticking a cheater bar on my 1/2" Craftsman ratchet to break a nut loose, but I do have a problem sticking one on my $$$ 3/8" Snap on ratchets$$$

You might find it handy to spend $20 on a Craftsman ratchet vs. forking out the cash for a Proto ratchet for that one. The 3/8" and 1/4" are the ones I use allll the time, so I spent the extra dough on the regular ones. I buy Craftsman (or better) for the rest of the tools I need. If I need it once, I'm probably going to need it again later. Might as well buy the proper, capable tool the first time.
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Old 06-03-2009, 05:47 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt93SE View Post
There's nothing on your car that should be over 250lb of torque. nothing.

Axle nuts are the highest torque part on the car, IIRC and they're aorund 180lb ft. I can still pull those off by hand..

That said, there's lots of places my 1/2" ratchet was handy, but not required. I have no problem sticking a cheater bar on my 1/2" Craftsman ratchet to break a nut loose, but I do have a problem sticking one on my $$$ 3/8" Snap on ratchets$$$

You might find it handy to spend $20 on a Craftsman ratchet vs. forking out the cash for a Proto ratchet for that one. The 3/8" and 1/4" are the ones I use allll the time, so I spent the extra dough on the regular ones. I buy Craftsman (or better) for the rest of the tools I need. If I need it once, I'm probably going to need it again later. Might as well buy the proper, capable tool the first time.
That's a good idea - buy a cheaper quality 1/2" ratchet just in case. I think i'm going to fork over the money for the 3/4" - I found them much cheaper in the US, but i'll have to drive to Buffalo and smuggle it accross to avoid duty and tax.

RE: Nothing over 250 ft-lbs - that's true if the fastener is brand new and maybe anti-seized....but 16 yr old fasteners need way more torque in some cases - like my 425 ft-lbs wouldn't get the parallel link hex nut off. My 425 1/2" did get the axle nut off but it took maybe 1 hr. per side of heating, tool, heating, tool repeatedly. Then, when I anti-seized and closed it up, now the 1/2" drive impact got it off easy. I tried the breaker bar on that stubborn axle nut in the beginning, but the flex bar felt like it was going to break - it was almost bending....put my body weight on it. Same with the parallel link nut - the breaker bar felt like it was going to break...so I ended up cutting them off.
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Old 06-06-2009, 10:57 PM   #7
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Get a half inch breaker bar and your good to go.
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Old 07-26-2009, 03:17 PM   #8
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Get a half inch breaker bar and your good to go.
Here's another trick I use. I used to use a 4 ft length of black pipe that I slid over my breaker bar for more torque, but it was often too long and unwieldy. Went to Home Depot and got a bunch of smaller lengths of pipe and screw on pipe connectors. Now I can make whatever size bar I need.
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Old 08-07-2009, 08:39 PM   #9
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Quote:
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Here's another trick I use. I used to use a 4 ft length of black pipe that I slid over my breaker bar for more torque, but it was often too long and unwieldy. Went to Home Depot and got a bunch of smaller lengths of pipe and screw on pipe connectors. Now I can make whatever size bar I need.
Had to do that before I got my new tool set.

The pipe was to hold an umbrella up. It bent on both ends.
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Old 08-08-2009, 12:11 AM   #10
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Hilarious. I bought this new Proto 3/8" drive breaker bar. This tiny thing is nuts. It's STRONGER than my 1/2" drive Blackhawk breaker bar (that was a cheaper china line).
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Old 08-08-2009, 08:44 AM   #11
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I use my 1/2" Craftsman almost exclusively. If I've got the room, it's the one I always grab, especially when doing suspension, exhaust, etc. You've to to have a 3/8" rachet though.
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Old 08-12-2009, 11:41 AM   #12
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One of the few times I've used a 1/2" ratchet is removing and replacing the transmission - MT, of course - fill plug. Even a cheap one works great for this, because not much torque is needed. A 1/2" breaker bar would work OK too, but the ratchet is far more convenient.
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Old 08-12-2009, 10:50 PM   #13
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I got a Craftsman 1/2" ratchet socket set for xmas 40 years ago, think it was when I was rebuilding my '64 Corvair Spyder. My cousin said, wow, now you will be able to break all finds of fasteners without trying. Funny thing is that got me sensitized about being careful, and just last week showed wife my favorite 40 yr old craftsman 1/4 inch set still perfect and much used during my IACV love affair of July.
I think if you have the room to work, and respect the force, 1/2 inch stuff is what I reach for often and carefully. Broke lots of 1/2 to 3/8 adapters in the past. obvious the solution was a 1/2 inch.
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Old 08-13-2009, 12:18 PM   #14
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I use my 1/2 inch ratchet whenever I can. Gives me more leverage which means less force and lower chance of stripping a bold.
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Old 08-14-2009, 12:36 AM   #15
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A breaker bar and my hammer is the winning combo.
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Old 08-14-2009, 02:50 AM   #16
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got my tools several years ago, and i think i touched my 1/2" drive once. i dont think you have a need considering all the stuff you do have. a little extra elbow grease on the 3/8" dive is better and more worth it than snapping bolts.
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Old 09-29-2009, 06:05 AM   #17
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Well an interesting thread. Kind of hilarious at times. Yes you need a 1/2" drive rachet. Adaptors to go up or down sizes should be used rarely. Most times when space is of concern. If are going to work on things, it will be used. I too use the 3/8 drive 75% of the time. But in 40 years of wrenching, have only used adapters probably 20 times. Just use the right tool for the job and you will ok.
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