Is this enough fluid for a drain & fill?
#1
Is this enough fluid for a drain & fill?
I am not planning to remove the oil pan for the automatic transmission fluid replacement, just drain and fill. Is 3 quarts enough?
And for coolant, I'm just going to drain the radiator and then flush it down with a garden hose, is 2 gallons enough?
And for coolant, I'm just going to drain the radiator and then flush it down with a garden hose, is 2 gallons enough?
#2
You need four quarts of ATF if you're just draining the pan.
For the coolant flush you should use distilled water and don't use the premixed antifreeze. It's very easy to do this flush.
http://forums.maxima.org/fluids-lubr...look-like.html
See post #21 for what to do.
For the coolant flush you should use distilled water and don't use the premixed antifreeze. It's very easy to do this flush.
http://forums.maxima.org/fluids-lubr...look-like.html
See post #21 for what to do.
Last edited by beegeezy; 09-17-2011 at 01:33 PM.
#3
You need four quarts of ATF if you're just draining the pan.
For the coolant flush you should use distilled water and don't use the premixed antifreeze. It's very easy to do this flush.
http://forums.maxima.org/fluids-lubr...look-like.html
See post #21 for what to do.
For the coolant flush you should use distilled water and don't use the premixed antifreeze. It's very easy to do this flush.
http://forums.maxima.org/fluids-lubr...look-like.html
See post #21 for what to do.
I saw the process on how to flush the coolant on post #21 and have a question. Once I repeat the process of filling the radiator up with water and draining it until no coolant is left....How do i get the rest of the water in the engine block out?
I don't want to add premixed antifreeze to the radiator when I know there's a lot of water left inside the engine block....
#4
So I need 4 quarts of ATF just for a drain? Wow that's a lot. Just to make sure we're on the same page. I am planning to just remove the drain plug on the transmission and that's it. I am NOT removing (21) bolts to remove the pan or screen/filter. In this case, do I still need 4 quarts?
I saw the process on how to flush the coolant on post #21 and have a question. Once I repeat the process of filling the radiator up with water and draining it until no coolant is left....How do i get the rest of the water in the engine block out?
I don't want to add premixed antifreeze to the radiator when I know there's a lot of water left inside the engine block....
I saw the process on how to flush the coolant on post #21 and have a question. Once I repeat the process of filling the radiator up with water and draining it until no coolant is left....How do i get the rest of the water in the engine block out?
I don't want to add premixed antifreeze to the radiator when I know there's a lot of water left inside the engine block....
Coolant flush
-you remove the drain plug from the bottom of the radiator
-drain/collect the coolant
-put the drain plug back in and fill the radiator with distilled water
-run the car until it's at normal operating temperature (with heater on max hot)
-carefully (wear eye protection) remove the drain plug and drain again
Repeat those steps until clear distilled water is coming out...and then you will have just water in the block. Close the drain plug and fill with one gallon of straight antifreeze. (non-mixed) That will get you very close to the 50/50 mix ratio. Run car and then let it cool off. Check the radiator level and top up with distilled water if needed.
Last edited by beegeezy; 09-17-2011 at 03:19 PM.
#8
Transmission -- I drain the transmission every 3 or 4 oil changes using only drain plug. I buy a gallon of new fluid to refill. Mine drains almost exactly a gallon. Lately, the fluid removed has been a nice pink, very close to new pink color. Gallon is about 10 to 12 bucks at auto parts store.
Coolant -- same basic idea as above. Drain and refill with 50/50. (I assume some degradation of additives (assume 5 year life) and some evaporation of water that causes coollant/water ratio to rise. I assume these 2 changes offset each other). I use only distilled (not mineral) water.
Coolant -- same basic idea as above. Drain and refill with 50/50. (I assume some degradation of additives (assume 5 year life) and some evaporation of water that causes coollant/water ratio to rise. I assume these 2 changes offset each other). I use only distilled (not mineral) water.
Last edited by redrock5432; 09-21-2011 at 08:04 AM.
#10
[QUOTE=kroze;8210289]I'm right at the $150 mark including the fluids (oil, transmission and coolant)
This comment applies to 2002 3.5L: This is a personal preference but for spark plugs I bought 6 NGK (6240) PLFR5A-11 Laser Platinum. I think these were the OEM units. They are double platinum, platinum on center and ground electrodes. I don't know that it really matters but there is so much labor to do the job again, it was worth a little extra expense on the plugs.
I expect the part numbers are different for 1999, but you may want to determine if double platinum is an option.
This comment applies to 2002 3.5L: This is a personal preference but for spark plugs I bought 6 NGK (6240) PLFR5A-11 Laser Platinum. I think these were the OEM units. They are double platinum, platinum on center and ground electrodes. I don't know that it really matters but there is so much labor to do the job again, it was worth a little extra expense on the plugs.
I expect the part numbers are different for 1999, but you may want to determine if double platinum is an option.
Last edited by redrock5432; 09-21-2011 at 01:36 AM.
#11
[QUOTE=redrock5432;8210402]
Copper is a superior conductor. Platinum plugs have ZERO performance benefits over copper plugs, they just last longer. Personally, I'd rather replace six $2 plugs once every 30k miles than six $12 plugs every 60-90. (whatever the platinum interval is)
I'm right at the $150 mark including the fluids (oil, transmission and coolant)
This comment applies to 2002 3.5L: This is a personal preference but for spark plugs I bought 6 NGK (6240) PLFR5A-11 Laser Platinum. I think these were the OEM units. They are double platinum, platinum on center and ground electrodes. I don't know that it really matters but there is so much labor to do the job again, it was worth a little extra expense on the plugs.
I expect the part numbers are different for 1999, but you may want to determine if double platinum is an option.
This comment applies to 2002 3.5L: This is a personal preference but for spark plugs I bought 6 NGK (6240) PLFR5A-11 Laser Platinum. I think these were the OEM units. They are double platinum, platinum on center and ground electrodes. I don't know that it really matters but there is so much labor to do the job again, it was worth a little extra expense on the plugs.
I expect the part numbers are different for 1999, but you may want to determine if double platinum is an option.
#12
[QUOTE=beegeezy;8210697]Yes, the longevity/price is the trade-off. To replace the odd numbered plugs on a 2002 3.5L requires removing the air intake assembly including the manifold collector with associated replacement of a gasket. For me this was couple of hours and the gasket was around $20. I do hope the platinum plugs last longer than standard plugs. I bought the platinum plugs for about $9 each.
#14
I have seen some sites that have done comparisons of oil filters including tearing some open to compare such things as filter area. Fram does not do well in these head to head comparisons. I have been using Bosch premium lately.
beegeezy, what is your preferred Brand & style?
beegeezy, what is your preferred Brand & style?
#15
Dude, return the oil filter, spark plugs, and belts. Seriously. Get a WIX oil filter from oreillys. Get original NGK G power plugs, hell they cost the same. Their single platinum and I think either 2.99 or 3.09 now. And those belts suck, get some gates belts. As for tranny fluid, spend the extra money and get the OEM nissan d matic. Please, please dont use a fram filter and autolite plugs.
#16
I use either the nissan filter or if I don't feel like going to the dealer I will use a wix filter. Wix filters are known to be usually very high quality...but they cost the same as the nissan one. I haven't used a fram filter in many years. I wish more oil filters had the fram style grip material on them though...that is nice to have.
Generally all I use for maintenance items are nissan parts, except for things like the air filter, spark plugs, brake pads/rotors, and wiper blades. I like brembo rotors and akebono proAct pads. (hawk hps and axxis ultimate are good too for performance applications)
Generally all I use for maintenance items are nissan parts, except for things like the air filter, spark plugs, brake pads/rotors, and wiper blades. I like brembo rotors and akebono proAct pads. (hawk hps and axxis ultimate are good too for performance applications)
#17
Well I went ahead and got everything done the other day except for the oil pressure switch. I didn't know you need a special socket to remove the old one.
The car runs like it's brand new off the dealer lot
The only thing I was short was the Automatic transmission fluid. I had to use 6.5 quarts instead of the original 4 quarts.
The car runs like it's brand new off the dealer lot
The only thing I was short was the Automatic transmission fluid. I had to use 6.5 quarts instead of the original 4 quarts.
#18
Well I went ahead and got everything done the other day except for the oil pressure switch. I didn't know you need a special socket to remove the old one.
The car runs like it's brand new off the dealer lot
The only thing I was short was the Automatic transmission fluid. I had to use 6.5 quarts instead of the original 4 quarts.
The car runs like it's brand new off the dealer lot
The only thing I was short was the Automatic transmission fluid. I had to use 6.5 quarts instead of the original 4 quarts.
The transmission fill is somewhat odd to me. I would have expected same number of quarts in and out to get to same level and if you were low at start, then less would have drained. A puzzler.
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