vball_max

iTrader: (5)

Why are you starting the engine? You are supposed to check the oil after the engine has been off for a while so all the oil drips back into the pan. I guess if you dont start the engine prior to checking it, the level may slightly go down when the oil gets into the filter, etc. But I really think thats almost a negligible amount.

Any as long as you put 4 to 4 1/4 qts. in, you really dont need to wait 10 minutes to start the engine. You can start it right away. Just wait 5-10 minutes after you shut it off to check the oil level.

I do think you are over complicating things quite a bit. I typically just use the markers on the side of the bottle or jug i am pouring from to determine how much I put in.

You'll be chewing on your foot....LOL...

CraigSE

No need to measure, that is what the dipstick is for.
You are over complicating

Buy a jug of oil (5L or 5 quarts, whatever) and add 3/4 of the jug. Check the oil after a few min, wipe dipstick, re-insert. Add the rest as required, keep the last bit of the oil and use for top offs.

Nothing scientific about it

Nealoc187

iTrader: (23)

This is a good thread.

Personally I'm going to stick with the Rotella T Synthetic in my VQ35 car, and probably keep running Castrol GTX 5W30 in my boring car.

Crusher103

iTrader: (10)

I would NEVER put Pennzoil in one of my cars AGAIN.

I will use Quaker State & Mobil 1 they have worked best for our cars

vball_max

iTrader: (5)

Why not?

The pennzoil platinum UOA's have been really good. From what I have read, it certainly outperforms M1.

Crusher103

iTrader: (10)

too many bad experinces with pennzoil on our older cars, we had a ford LTD and a Toyota Corolla way back and we noticed in both cars when pennzoil was used the cars would both start burning it off, the ford had a slew of problems aside from just the oil but the we changed from pennzoil to mobil 1 and quaker state and the burn off and so on stopped.

vball_max

iTrader: (5)

Does that surprise you?????

I'm assuming you were using the old dyno pennzoil? That stuff would never touch my engine either.....

But the platinum synthetic is a whole different ballgame.

gizzsdad

Actually, among the oil geeks (BITOG, etc.), Pennzoil dino is now considered one of the best.

Crusher103

iTrader: (10)

it honestly didnt, i cant blame pennzoil for the reason that car had endless electrical problems and the transmission never worked the way it should. what i like about it was the motor shifted the whole car when u stepped on the accelerator, despite our I30s being a **** ton more powerful then the ford they cant do that. good old iron blocks.

RR5

iTrader: (6)

I should get my Blackstone oil analysis report today. This is Castrol GTX high milage 10w-30.

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

I use Rotella T6 Synthetic 5W40, so far three oil analysis have shown perfect results. Not only is it probably superior to rest of the off the shelf oil's but its also pretty cheap, $19 for a gallon at walmart.

Eirik

iTrader: (2)

The last time I researched this topic, I thought the "European Formula" Mobil1 0w-40 was the best "off-the-shelf" oil for the VQ35DE. Has that now shifted to Pennzoil? My350Zs charts are all broken, so I can't really examine those until he posts new results sometime in the near future, but I'm changing my oil today so... Yeah.

I'm putting in the aforementioned M1 0W-40 with the M1-108 filter. I'll definitely do a UOA in a few months and see what's what. My engine is burning oil, but I'm having difficulty determining how much. Starting over with a clean slate will give me the variables I need to more accurately track it.

UGAd13

Update?

By 3500 miles using 10w30 the engine was rattling like crazy and had consumed a ton. I picked up some GTX High Mileage 10w40 for my latest change and so far the engine seems to be running fairly smooth, about 600 or so miles on it.

I'll probably do another run of 10w40 then send it off to Blackstone.

RR5

iTrader: (6)

Well the report back from Blackstone indicates high wear. Levels of copper and lead are especially high which indicate bearing wear. However I did use Restore which does contain copper and lead. And finally aluminum and chrome indicate piston and ring wear. Blackstone told me the "pinging" is likely detonation and a compression check is a good idea. Sodium was also pretty high, might be an additive (in the oil) or might indicate a coolant leak (which ultimately might be a head gasket).

I am going to send in virgin Castrol GTX high mileage and my used oil this time, Blackstone will run the virgin oil at no charge.

I should be due to send off a batch later this week.

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

Here is my latest oil report, still using Rotella T6 5w40, it shows a little high on chrome, which makes me worry about ring wear, possibly from cold start piston slap. I am inlove with the Rotella but they dont offer anything thicker, what oil do you guys recommend that is thicker and as good as rotella? I wanna try to get rid of the piston slap a little bit.

RR5

iTrader: (6)

I thought I saw that German Castrol was nearly the best oil to use in the VQ35. However it is often hard to locate locally.