What grade of engine oil should I used?
01-20-2010, 03:22 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Memphis,tn
Posts: 221
What grade of engine oil should I used?
2004 nissan maxima 3.5 vq35DE
mods: Aem cai,Greddy exhasust,ecu-reflashed,timing 2 degrees for nitrous.
Stock rpm was 6,400
with ecu-refaslhed now is 7,100 rpm
plus this is my 2nd motor so I wanna keep it alive as possible n for now I'm using 5w30 PP oil with mobil one filter.
All I wanna know is what grade should i used for my engine oil?
Thank u.
mods: Aem cai,Greddy exhasust,ecu-reflashed,timing 2 degrees for nitrous.
Stock rpm was 6,400
with ecu-refaslhed now is 7,100 rpm
plus this is my 2nd motor so I wanna keep it alive as possible n for now I'm using 5w30 PP oil with mobil one filter.
All I wanna know is what grade should i used for my engine oil?
Thank u.
02-12-2010, 02:28 AM
#9
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 388
5W-30 or 10W-30. Listen to your manual.
02-12-2010, 08:53 AM
#10
I thought so none exist....
Stick with 5W30 or 10W30 or even 0W30 if running Synthetic.
02-16-2010, 07:30 PM
#13
Not usually, but sometimes. There is a relationship between viscosity, pressure, and lubrication. As viscosity decreases, or pressure increases, lubrication begins to suffer at some point. The relationship can be plotted for various oils and the resulting graph is known as the Stribeck Curve. This curve shows us that increasing levels of pressure require an increase in viscosity in order to maintain proper lubrication. Thicker oil will have higher film strength than thinner oil, and therefore withstand extreme pressure and heat better. This is why racing engines which see extremely high temps and pressures will use very high oil weights. For a street driven car, however, too thick of an oil will create more drag in the engine and can cost you horsepower and fuel efficiency. The general rule of thumb is to use as thin an oil as possible that still offers good protection from engine wear. Nissan recommends nothing thinner than a 30 weight and nothing thicker than 40 weight oil. The only way to be sure if higher viscosity oil is needed to protect your engine for the way you drive, is with a UOA.
02-17-2010, 06:18 PM
#14
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Engineering is a compromise, and OEMs make oil recommendations which balance between optimal wear protection, fuel efficiency, emissions, and other factors. Like others have said, Nissan lists 5w-30 as the "preferred" viscosity for any temperature, but 10w-40 is also listed as an acceptable alternative if temps don't fall below zero deg F.
If you are concerned about wear protection, using a 10w-40 will not only provide a slightly higher film strength, but another consideration is that the API does not limit ZDDP additives in 10w-40 as it does for the lighter viscosities. You mentioned the AMSOIL on-line reference guide in one of your posts, and their 10w-40 premium protection oil is a high-zinc formula for outstanding wear protection. You may know this but the API has put limits on the amount of ZDDP contained in SM rated oils (generally speaking 10w-30 and lighter) as they have concluded that zinc can shorten the life of emission control systems...some people question it, but that's the logic.
I personally use AMSOIL 0w-30...its very efficient, yet it provides excellent wear protection while meeting API SM zinc limits.
If you are concerned about wear protection, using a 10w-40 will not only provide a slightly higher film strength, but another consideration is that the API does not limit ZDDP additives in 10w-40 as it does for the lighter viscosities. You mentioned the AMSOIL on-line reference guide in one of your posts, and their 10w-40 premium protection oil is a high-zinc formula for outstanding wear protection. You may know this but the API has put limits on the amount of ZDDP contained in SM rated oils (generally speaking 10w-30 and lighter) as they have concluded that zinc can shorten the life of emission control systems...some people question it, but that's the logic.
I personally use AMSOIL 0w-30...its very efficient, yet it provides excellent wear protection while meeting API SM zinc limits.
Last edited by talkinghorse; 02-17-2010 at 06:50 PM.
02-17-2010, 08:09 PM
#15
Engineering is a compromise, and OEMs make oil recommendations which balance between optimal wear protection, fuel efficiency, emissions, and other factors. Like others have said, Nissan lists 5w-30 as the "preferred" viscosity for any temperature, but 10w-40 is also listed as an acceptable alternative if temps don't fall below zero deg F.
If you are concerned about wear protection, using a 10w-40 will not only provide a slightly higher film strength, but another consideration is that the API does not limit ZDDP additives in 10w-40 as it does for the lighter viscosities. You mentioned the AMSOIL on-line reference guide in one of your posts, and their 10w-40 premium protection oil is a high-zinc formula for outstanding wear protection. You may know this but the API has put limits on the amount of ZDDP contained in SM rated oils (generally speaking 10w-30 and lighter) as they have concluded that zinc can shorten the life of emission control systems...some people question it, but that's the logic.
I personally use AMSOIL 0w-30...its very efficient, yet it provides excellent wear protection while meeting API SM zinc limits.
If you are concerned about wear protection, using a 10w-40 will not only provide a slightly higher film strength, but another consideration is that the API does not limit ZDDP additives in 10w-40 as it does for the lighter viscosities. You mentioned the AMSOIL on-line reference guide in one of your posts, and their 10w-40 premium protection oil is a high-zinc formula for outstanding wear protection. You may know this but the API has put limits on the amount of ZDDP contained in SM rated oils (generally speaking 10w-30 and lighter) as they have concluded that zinc can shorten the life of emission control systems...some people question it, but that's the logic.
I personally use AMSOIL 0w-30...its very efficient, yet it provides excellent wear protection while meeting API SM zinc limits.
02-20-2010, 04:39 PM
#18
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I believe this would be an excellent oil for your application, but AMSOIL does not make extended drain recommendations for modded engines. You would probably have to rely on the results of UOA to determine the maximum service interval.
02-21-2010, 02:33 AM
#19
03-07-2010, 12:17 PM
#21
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Posts: 601
Higher viscosity is for clearance in specific motor as much as race/street use. Porsches get driven harder in general so they burn more as well.
03-07-2010, 01:14 PM
#22
That's all good and great (reading through all those nicely detailed postings, with various charts and such...
Those of us that live in Florida - we use 20W50 - and if you look at that nice chart put up by MaxLoverAz you'll see that the temp chart shows why, as we get very few truly cold days here, and almost never dip below 20F. I've used it in Every car I've owned here. The only vehicle that I didn't use it in was an 88 F150, I use Castrol Syntec in that.
Those of us that live in Florida - we use 20W50 - and if you look at that nice chart put up by MaxLoverAz you'll see that the temp chart shows why, as we get very few truly cold days here, and almost never dip below 20F. I've used it in Every car I've owned here. The only vehicle that I didn't use it in was an 88 F150, I use Castrol Syntec in that.
03-07-2010, 01:29 PM
#23
That's all good and great (reading through all those nicely detailed postings, with various charts and such...
Those of us that live in Florida - we use 20W50 - and if you look at that nice chart put up by MaxLoverAz you'll see that the temp chart shows why, as we get very few truly cold days here, and almost never dip below 20F. I've used it in Every car I've owned here. The only vehicle that I didn't use it in was an 88 F150, I use Castrol Syntec in that.
Those of us that live in Florida - we use 20W50 - and if you look at that nice chart put up by MaxLoverAz you'll see that the temp chart shows why, as we get very few truly cold days here, and almost never dip below 20F. I've used it in Every car I've owned here. The only vehicle that I didn't use it in was an 88 F150, I use Castrol Syntec in that.
Last edited by MaxLoverAz; 03-07-2010 at 01:40 PM.
03-20-2010, 07:20 AM
#24
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: In the south
Posts: 121
Funny here in AZ 20W50 was used back in the 80's but with the advent of technology in motor oil formulations I don't know of any that use 20W50 because of the temperature and I believe we get a tad bit hotter than you. Thicker oil can be better for older engines in which engine parts have worn over the years but not in newer modern engines we have today.
03-20-2010, 10:54 AM
#25
20w50 is way to thick your engine will not be lubricated fully with that oil its to thick 5w30 is the best there is a reason why the manufacturer recommends that weight oil (5w30) if you use a real thick oil you engine has a good chance that certain parts will not receive the oil due to its thickness,thicker is not better unless you have and air cooled engine or you have tons of miles where your car is burning oil than you should use the thicker oil. You wont go wrong with 5w30!!! Did you ever here the saying if its not broke don't fix it?
03-21-2010, 10:51 AM
#26
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Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 6,190
I have been using Esso Extra XD-3 0w-30 full synthetic for almost 5 years with good results. It is a fraction of the cost of Mobil 1 and is a heck of a lot cheaper. According to BITOG it achieves better UOA results than Mobil 1. In the past it hasn't been available in the US, but perhaps it is now. I think 0 - 40 was available before at WalMart.
03-21-2010, 11:20 AM
#27
MaxLoverAz "As a rule, overhead cam (OHC) engines typically require thinner oils such as 5W-30 or 5W-20 to speed lubrication of the overhead cam(s) and valve-train when the engine is first started. Pushrod engines, by comparison, typically specify 5W-30, 10W-30 or 10W-40. As mileage adds up and internal engine wear increases bearing clearances, it may be wise to switch to a slightly higher viscosity rating to prolong engine life, reduce noise and oil consumption. For example, if an engine originally factory-filled with 5W-30 now has 90,000 miles on it, switching to a 10W-30 oil may provide better lubrication and protection. The thicker oil will maintain the strength of the oil film in the bearings better so the engine will have more oil pressure. This will also reduce engine noise and reduced bearing fatigue (which can lead to bearing failure in
engines).
For sustained high temperature, high load operation, an even heavier oil may be used in some situations. Some racing engines use 20W-50, but this would only be recommended for an engine with increased bearing clearances. Increasing the viscosity of the oil also increases drag and friction, which can sap horsepower from the That's why 20W-50 racing oil would not be the best choice for everyday driving or cold weather operation for most vehicles. The latest trend in racing is to run tighter bearing clearances and use thinner oils such as 0W-20, 0W-30, 5W-20 or 5W-30 to reduce friction and drag."
I may not be as 'CRAZY' as you think - it's not just hot here, it's also humid, whole new ballgame compared to Arizona (nice place to live by the way - been through it a few times).
If I lived in the dry desert of AZ, I'd would probably use the thinner oils. Also, it does get MUCH colder in AZ than it does here in Central Florida, so you do need the lower starting temp rated oils.
In the years (21 of them) that I've lived in Florida, the average Winter is less than two weeks, and only in two of those years did the temp get below 20F, and rarely got below 30F... research before you 'name call'
KTHXBYE
engines).
For sustained high temperature, high load operation, an even heavier oil may be used in some situations. Some racing engines use 20W-50, but this would only be recommended for an engine with increased bearing clearances. Increasing the viscosity of the oil also increases drag and friction, which can sap horsepower from the That's why 20W-50 racing oil would not be the best choice for everyday driving or cold weather operation for most vehicles. The latest trend in racing is to run tighter bearing clearances and use thinner oils such as 0W-20, 0W-30, 5W-20 or 5W-30 to reduce friction and drag."
I may not be as 'CRAZY' as you think - it's not just hot here, it's also humid, whole new ballgame compared to Arizona (nice place to live by the way - been through it a few times).
If I lived in the dry desert of AZ, I'd would probably use the thinner oils. Also, it does get MUCH colder in AZ than it does here in Central Florida, so you do need the lower starting temp rated oils.
In the years (21 of them) that I've lived in Florida, the average Winter is less than two weeks, and only in two of those years did the temp get below 20F, and rarely got below 30F... research before you 'name call'
KTHXBYE
03-29-2010, 09:22 PM
#28
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Location: London, ON, Canada
Posts: 595
I have been using Esso Extra XD-3 0w-30 full synthetic for almost 5 years with good results. It is a fraction of the cost of Mobil 1 and is a heck of a lot cheaper. According to BITOG it achieves better UOA results than Mobil 1. In the past it hasn't been available in the US, but perhaps it is now. I think 0 - 40 was available before at WalMart.
I should still probably try that someday. I have an Esso bulk dealer not too far from me.
04-08-2010, 02:49 PM
#29
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Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 31
This thread had some extremely informative and interesting posts. I think I have a much firmer grasp of oil selection now, thumbsup!
But, it doesn't change my habits at all, use what the manual says, then if it's high mileage switch to 5w30 if I'm not already using it so it doesn't have to work so hard.
But, it doesn't change my habits at all, use what the manual says, then if it's high mileage switch to 5w30 if I'm not already using it so it doesn't have to work so hard.
04-16-2010, 07:31 PM
#31
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