Fluids and LubricantsMotor oil, transmission oil, radiator fluid, power steering fluid, blinker fluid... wait, there is no blinker fluid. Technical discussion and analysis of the different lubricants we use in our cars.
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AMSOIL 100% Synthetic Lithium Based Complex Series 2000 Racing Grease... is amazing! The engineers at Amsoil have really impressed me with this product. I used it to pack my new wheel bearings and it is great, but what I noticed gave me another [crazy] idea. One of the elemental components of the formula is zinc. I then recalled my old Engines instructor in tech school telling me about an expensive additive he used to use in his hot rods to help protect and condition the cams that was basically zinc. Zinc is a soft metal so think ionic fluoride and teeth, it basically bonds to the surface of worn metal. I promptly squirted 1 oz of the stuff into my oil fill port in the cylinder head and then ran the car at operating temperature for an hour or so (had to run some errands). I must say I was pleasantly surprised with the results! At first I had some regrets, I mean who wants to put grease in their engine I thought! But this is no ordinary grease and by no means would I encourage anyone to put ANY other kind of "grease" in their engine's lubrication system. When I drained my oil for a change about 700 miles later I noticed a bunch of copper colored oxidation particles clearly deposited in the oil, more than I have ever seen! I refilled with Mobil 1 5w30 High Mileage Synthetic and let me tell you, this procedure has yielded a more perceivable gain in smoothness and response than Auto-Rx or Seafoam where able to accomplish. I cannot be certain without removing my heads but I am confident that my camshafts are happy about it as well! Whatever you decide to use this stuff for, I highly recommend it!
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I agree that the Series 2000 grease is an outstanding product for greasing applications, but I don't believe AMSOIL would recommend adding it to your engine oil for any reason.
I'm also confused about the "copper colored oxidation particles" you drained from your engine...
If you want a high-zinc formula engine oil, try AMSOIL AMO
Well the copper colored oxidation particles are just that, rust. This is more of an issue in drastically varying climates such as the northeast but due to condensation, water inevitably finds its way into the crankcase where it contributes to oxidation of metal. What I found in the oil was more of an even powder-like consistency and not "filings" which leads me to believe that it was oxidation removed from the valve train and rotating assembly. Only a chemical analysis can be conclusive though.
AMSOIL 100% Synthetic Lithium Based Complex Series 2000 Racing Grease... is amazing! The engineers at Amsoil have really impressed me with this product. I used it to pack my new wheel bearings and it is great, but what I noticed gave me another [crazy] idea. One of the elemental components of the formula is zinc. I then recalled my old Engines instructor in tech school telling me about an expensive additive he used to use in his hot rods to help protect and condition the cams that was basically zinc. Zinc is a soft metal so think ionic fluoride and teeth, it basically bonds to the surface of worn metal. I promptly squirted 1 oz of the stuff into my oil fill port in the cylinder head and then ran the car at operating temperature for an hour or so (had to run some errands). I must say I was pleasantly surprised with the results! At first I had some regrets, I mean who wants to put grease in their engine I thought! But this is no ordinary grease and by no means would I encourage anyone to put ANY other kind of "grease" in their engine's lubrication system. When I drained my oil for a change about 700 miles later I noticed a bunch of copper colored oxidation particles clearly deposited in the oil, more than I have ever seen! I refilled with Mobil 1 5w30 High Mileage Synthetic and let me tell you, this procedure has yielded a more perceivable gain in smoothness and response than Auto-Rx or Seafoam where able to accomplish. I cannot be certain without removing my heads but I am confident that my camshafts are happy about it as well! Whatever you decide to use this stuff for, I highly recommend it!
Dude your insane. It's just grease....
How much does that stuff cost anyways? You could just go to Walmart and buy the Quaker State synthetic.....same crap.
How much does that stuff cost anyways? You could just go to Walmart and buy the Quaker State synthetic.....same crap.
As far as greases go, AMSOIL series 2000 is a premium product...it's not "crap" and it's not the same as Quaker State. You will be hard-pressed to find a product that offers the same level of protection as this product will in severe service greasing applications.
I've used this product in a number of greasing applications (chassis/suspension lube, wheel bearings, high end lawn and garden equipment used in commercial applications, and others) with excellent results. Back in 2001 the starter on my '98 max started sticking when the temperatures dropped...I disassembled the starter, cleaned, and re-greased the gears with this product, and have not had another problem with it since. Did the same thing on my '00 Infiniti. This product will continue to perform in high temperature/high load applications where other greases will fail.
With that said, this product should definitely not be introduced to the crankcase or used as an oil additive.
I don't know - maybe when it comes to tranny fluid or oil the Amsoil stuff is great, but grease is another world. I can name you 10 companies if you want me to, that provide equal or superior grease products to anything Amsoil makes, at PROBABLY a fraction of the price.
I don't know - maybe when it comes to tranny fluid or oil the Amsoil stuff is great, but grease is another world. I can name you 10 companies if you want me to, that provide equal or superior grease products to anything Amsoil makes, at PROBABLY a fraction of the price.
This thread/post is not intended to debate the merits of different brands of grease...it's about one of our members recommending that others add this particular grease to their engine oil to reduce wear, remove rust, etc. I sell these products, and when people use them for purposes other than intended by the manufacturer they're the first one's to blame the products for the failure. AMSOIL Series 2000 grease is a very high quality product, but it should not be used for this purpose.
I base my comments about the quality of AMSOIL grease based on my own personal experience and performance data I have read which compares this grease to other high end products such as Mobil 1 synthetic, RedLine synthetic and Lubriplate conventional greases. Series 2000 grease also produces outstanding performance results when compared to NLGI standards, the industry benchmark against which greases are measured. I've also read tests about OTR truckers using this product and the extended life they get out of their front ends. Few automobiles today have grease fittings like they used to years ago. But if you do have a requirement for grease, and if you can find a better one, by all means go for it...
But the bottom line remains...don't add it to your engine oil.
I think I found grease fittings on my GXE - I was surprised because they weren't mentioned in the manual. Actually horse do you know how to get the old grease out if there is a zerk? Do you need some sucking tool?
Last edited by 1993-VG30E-GXE; 05-01-2009 at 02:50 AM.
I think I found grease fittings on my GXE - I was surprised because they weren't mentioned in the manual. Actually horse do you know how to get the old grease out if there is a zerk? Do you need some sucking tool?
Wow, I'm surprised. Where they at?
As far as grease removal goes, short of a complete disassembly & cleaning, I believe the only way to remove old grease is to force it out by injecting fresh grease. I've never seen any sort of tool/device that would suck old grease out. Let me know how you make out with it.
As far as grease removal goes, short of a complete disassembly & cleaning, I believe the only way to remove old grease is to force it out by injecting fresh grease. I've never seen any sort of tool/device that would suck old grease out. Let me know how you make out with it.
OK, I'll try my Lincoln grease gun on it, it has the attachment on the end for the zerk. The 2 (driver side & passenger side) I found were the lower ball joints. I need to conform 100% that they aren't just dummy zerks, going nowhere, but I don't think they would have had them in the design if they didn't do anything. Odd the manual doesn't even mention it.
As well, I've seen photos of Outer Tie Rod replacements for the GXE that include the zerks too.
Horse I finished greasing those ball joints. The design is pretty good, there's a small pin hole in the boot that is designed to let the old grease exit while the new grease is pumped into the zerk. It took maybe 4-6 pumps to refresh.
Horse I finished greasing those ball joints. The design is pretty good, there's a small pin hole in the boot that is designed to let the old grease exit while the new grease is pumped into the zerk. It took maybe 4-6 pumps to refresh.
That's perfect! Fresh grease will have a big impact in extending the life of the joints. I've looked at my 4th and 5th gen cars a hundred times, and it looks as though everything is sealed. I've not had the Frontier very long, but I believe it's the same way...I was hoping the truck would have zerks on the front suspension, but I haven't seen them and the FSM makes no mention of them.
My dad used to have a Buick Park Avenue (front drive) and that car had zerks on the rear suspension! I thought that was pretty thoughtful for GM
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