Fluids and LubricantsMotor oil, transmission oil, radiator fluid, power steering fluid, blinker fluid... wait, there is no blinker fluid. Technical discussion and analysis of the different lubricants we use in our cars.
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98 SE - Supercharged at 10psi w/the works - VQ35 coming soon...
2k SE - Stock... pretty much
88 RX-7 - Sold
95 240sx KA-T 10psi - sold
3 4th gens.... gone....
I had a helper when I did mine for the first time, and it was easy. BUT, I'd never do it myself w/out proper teaching. I watched carefully and understood what was going on, but i really dont know that I would do it by myself, having only the one experience w/ it. A shop will do it for $60-80 bucks around here. I'd stay away from it if I were you.
I had a helper when I did mine for the first time, and it was easy. BUT, I'd never do it myself w/out proper teaching. I watched carefully and understood what was going on, but i really dont know that I would do it by myself, having only the one experience w/ it. A shop will do it for $60-80 bucks around here. I'd stay away from it if I were you.
I'm beginning to think this too. I can't find any information on it. Even if I tried to suck the fluid out of the reservoir, there's no access to the fluid..there's some screen blocking AND the reservoir is so tiny my guess is all the fluid is in the system.
Do you remember how much fluid you drained out and replaced when you did do it? I'm curious.
I'm beginning to think this too. I can't find any information on it. Even if I tried to suck the fluid out of the reservoir, there's no access to the fluid..there's some screen blocking AND the reservoir is so tiny my guess is all the fluid is in the system.
Do you remember how much fluid you drained out and replaced when you did do it? I'm curious.
When we did mine, we drained all the lines and it took less than 1 qt to purge out all the old fluid until the only thing coming out was fresh fluid. Mine had never been done, and was quite dark...it is darker near the calipers than it is in the reservoir because the heat transforms the color and degrades its properties. It's far easier than changing the coolant or spark plugs for that matter, but the concern is getting all the air out of the system properly (bleeding the brakes) and following the proper procedures.
Dont open the fill cap unless necessary because air is absorbed into the fluid and degrades the system. Keep it closed at all times unless its getting serviced. I would recommend getting the fluid changed by a mechanic friend or a shop because (I recently learned this) most problems w/ brake lines are due to lack of changing the fluid. It doesnt circulate like oil/coolant/ps fluid and so the stuff at the ends of the lines just sits there and gets old w/ the heat and pressure at the calipers. I think they recommend every 2 yrs or so.
The procedure seems pretty straight forward, it's all in the BR section of the service manual. All you need is a crowfoot and some vinyl tubing, plus the tools to get the odds & ends off, and a torque wrench. I'm going to do it with a second person, just makes it easier. There is a tool that makes it easier to do it with 1 person. While you have everything off, you may as well inspect your brakes too.
The only thing that confuses me, is that they say to clean out the master cylinder, but I don't see how this would be possible without removing all the fluid. Prior to this statement the manual says to not allow the fluid to go too low in the cylinder, so this confuses me.
They also say to clean the cylinder with clean brake fluid and nothing else.
The procedure seems pretty straight forward, it's all in the BR section of the service manual. All you need is a crowfoot and some vinyl tubing, plus the tools to get the odds & ends off, and a torque wrench. I'm going to do it with a second person, just makes it easier. There is a tool that makes it easier to do it with 1 person. While you have everything off, you may as well inspect your brakes too.
The only thing that confuses me, is that they say to clean out the master cylinder, but I don't see how this would be possible without removing all the fluid. Prior to this statement the manual says to not allow the fluid to go too low in the cylinder, so this confuses me.
They also say to clean the cylinder with clean brake fluid and nothing else.
I don't think you should tinker with it. There's a screen in the master cylinder to filter out particles that'll ruin the lines. The brake fluid system is closed as says and does not circulate. It will drop as brake pad wears down amongst other ways to indicate.
Just bleed the system good and you'll be fine. You don't want it to be empty where it sucks in air and becomes more of a hassle. You'd actually need 3 people. 1 to top off the fluid, one at the brake pedal and 1 at the caliper lol.
Guys I need to empty the cylinder completely. I have to replace the ABS Actuator - it's bursting at the seems literally. I was driving last week on the main road and I practically completely lost my brakes - I had to use the emergency brake but it doesn't work so fast, the fluid ended up on the street and the level was below the MIN line by the time I got in the driveway, although not completely empty. Luckily I was only 5-min from home at not on the highway.
I'm going to the JY next week to find one - Nissan quotes me around $800.00 for the replacement.
I think according to the manual I have to remove all the fluid from the hydraulic lines when removing the Actuator..I just need to make sure to do the Air Bleed procedure at the end.
Does anyone know if it would be dangerous to use anti-sieze on those brake tubing line nuts when I install the new part?
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