cant decide between oils
04-28-2005, 09:59 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 120
cant decide between oils
i am gunna be doing an oil change this saturday but i am not sure which oils to use. i read they stickies but it was sort of confusing. ive had my max for about a month now so i just want to kno what oils would be best. its a 95 with 160k miles on it. thanks for the help. oh and what oil filter
04-29-2005, 01:18 AM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Posts: 1,994
Originally Posted by Nissan2k5
. . . i am not sure which oils to use. i read they stickies but it was sort of confusing. ive had my max for about a month now so i just want to kno what oils would be best. its a 95 with 160k miles on it. thanks for the help. oh and what oil filter
- Oil Filter: Mobil 1 M1-105 is the best but expensive. This filter only fits the 3.5 L engine. The Nissan OEM 15208-9E000 is a best buy for the money and fits both the 3.5 and the 3.0 L engines. Do not ask for the other Nissan filter (Nissan OEM 15208-65F00) because it is cheaply made. I use the 9E000 on my 04 when I change my oil and ask for it by number at my dealer.
- Dino Motor Oil: Stick with Castrol GTX. It has the best test results.
- Synthetic Motor Oil: Amsol is probably slightly better than Mobil 1. I would buy one of them, based on price. There is a member here who will sell you Amsol at a discount -- check it out. I use Mobil 1 because I have a supply left over from my previous car. I will probably switch to Amsol -- but only if I can get it for no more than Mobil 1 -- when the time comes to buy more oil.
Finally: I worked for Amoco for 35 years. We had a lube expert in the company who believed (for his vehicles) that while synthetic motor oil (Amoco had one at the time) was very good, it was not worth the extra cost over Dino oil. So he never paid the extra for Synthetic. I had a 84 Toyota mini-van in the 80's that used the Amoco synthetic motor oil. I had a plug in the oil pan blow out once. I did not catch this fact until the van had driven about 35 miles -- with no oil in the pan. When I had my repair shop check the engine out and fix the plug, he could find nothing wrong with the engine. The synthetic oil had saved the engine. I have been using synthetic ever since.
So you have to make the call whether to pay about $4/Qt for synthetic or about $1.50/Qt for Castrol GTX. And whatever you buy, be certain to shake the bottle a few times before putting the new oil in your engine.
Your name is confusing, implying that you're driving a 2K5 (2005). But you clearly say that you are driving a 2K-5 (1995).
04-29-2005, 12:10 PM
#3
Silver max is right about GTX if your gonna use dino, its good stuff. Otherwise i would use M1 (not EP) i have alot of reasons for not likeing amsoil (sorry talkinghorse) but i dont think its a bad oil, there are just better choices and m-1 is one of them, Also if you can find castrol syntec there 0w-30 is really good oil but only if it says "Made in Germany" on the back. Regular syntec is not very good but the German stuff (a tad hard to find, usually can be found at Autozone only can be had in 0w30) also for filters, there are 3 worth looking at, The M1-110 will fit your car but is real pricy, The OEM one is decent from what i hear just make sure to use silver max's reccomended part #, But my favorite is the Purolator PureOne pl14610, its about $5 and is a great filter, the one thing i wont do with the PureOne is any OCI over 5k. but other than that its my choice.
04-29-2005, 01:05 PM
#4
Originally Posted by Nissan2k5
its a 95 with 160k miles on it.
Also, once the sludge and varnishes are gone (whether using syn oils or running Auto-Rx), you might find that some of the seals are in poor shape and get some leaking.
04-29-2005, 02:25 PM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 103
Originally Posted by SilverMax_04
I can tell you my "take-away" from the Stickies:
- Oil Filter: Mobil 1 M1-105 is the best but expensive. This filter only fits the 3.5 L engine. The Nissan OEM 15208-9E000 is a best buy for the money and fits both the 3.5 and the 3.0 L engines. Do not ask for the other Nissan filter (Nissan OEM 15208-65F00) because it is cheaply made. I use the 9E000 on my 04 when I change my oil and ask for it by number at my dealer.
- Dino Motor Oil: Stick with Castrol GTX. It has the best test results.
- Synthetic Motor Oil: Amsol is probably slightly better than Mobil 1. I would buy one of them, based on price. There is a member here who will sell you Amsol at a discount -- check it out. I use Mobil 1 because I have a supply left over from my previous car. I will probably switch to Amsol -- but only if I can get it for no more than Mobil 1 -- when the time comes to buy more oil.
Finally: I worked for Amoco for 35 years. We had a lube expert in the company who believed (for his vehicles) that while synthetic motor oil (Amoco had one at the time) was very good, it was not worth the extra cost over Dino oil. So he never paid the extra for Synthetic. I had a 84 Toyota mini-van in the 80's that used the Amoco synthetic motor oil. I had a plug in the oil pan blow out once. I did not catch this fact until the van had driven about 35 miles -- with no oil in the pan. When I had my repair shop check the engine out and fix the plug, he could find nothing wrong with the engine. The synthetic oil had saved the engine. I have been using synthetic ever since.
So you have to make the call whether to pay about $4/Qt for synthetic or about $1.50/Qt for Castrol GTX. And whatever you buy, be certain to shake the bottle a few times before putting the new oil in your engine.
Your name is confusing, implying that you're driving a 2K5 (2005). But you clearly say that you are driving a 2K-5 (1995).
- Oil Filter: Mobil 1 M1-105 is the best but expensive. This filter only fits the 3.5 L engine. The Nissan OEM 15208-9E000 is a best buy for the money and fits both the 3.5 and the 3.0 L engines. Do not ask for the other Nissan filter (Nissan OEM 15208-65F00) because it is cheaply made. I use the 9E000 on my 04 when I change my oil and ask for it by number at my dealer.
- Dino Motor Oil: Stick with Castrol GTX. It has the best test results.
- Synthetic Motor Oil: Amsol is probably slightly better than Mobil 1. I would buy one of them, based on price. There is a member here who will sell you Amsol at a discount -- check it out. I use Mobil 1 because I have a supply left over from my previous car. I will probably switch to Amsol -- but only if I can get it for no more than Mobil 1 -- when the time comes to buy more oil.
Finally: I worked for Amoco for 35 years. We had a lube expert in the company who believed (for his vehicles) that while synthetic motor oil (Amoco had one at the time) was very good, it was not worth the extra cost over Dino oil. So he never paid the extra for Synthetic. I had a 84 Toyota mini-van in the 80's that used the Amoco synthetic motor oil. I had a plug in the oil pan blow out once. I did not catch this fact until the van had driven about 35 miles -- with no oil in the pan. When I had my repair shop check the engine out and fix the plug, he could find nothing wrong with the engine. The synthetic oil had saved the engine. I have been using synthetic ever since.
So you have to make the call whether to pay about $4/Qt for synthetic or about $1.50/Qt for Castrol GTX. And whatever you buy, be certain to shake the bottle a few times before putting the new oil in your engine.
Your name is confusing, implying that you're driving a 2K5 (2005). But you clearly say that you are driving a 2K-5 (1995).
04-29-2005, 05:25 PM
#6
CCS is probally right i would run Auto RX to clean it out in preperation for the Syn you could also probally run diesal oil instead but i think RX is a better option
jay-You shake oil becuase often many of the additives settle to the bottom of the bottle and this helps shake them back up.
jay-You shake oil becuase often many of the additives settle to the bottom of the bottle and this helps shake them back up.
04-30-2005, 12:03 AM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Posts: 1,994
Originally Posted by kcryan
jay-You shake oil becuase often many of the additives settle to the bottom of the bottle and this helps shake them back up.
04-30-2005, 01:08 PM
#9
Originally Posted by Nissan2k5
but wait what does synthetic oils do? and the auto rx is that an oils or do i use it run the car and then drain it then put in the regular oils?
also search on auto-rx in bobistheoilguy.com forums and read some of the threads
04-30-2005, 02:24 PM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Posts: 1,994
Originally Posted by flthere
read here http://www.auto-rx.com/
"Without a detailed chemical analysis it is tough to tell exactly what the product is. My best guess is a modifier to increase the base oil viscosity coupled with a detergent package.
"All of the things cited on the web site are within the testing noise for this type of product. It may do some good but in an older engine the variability is pretty large when it comes to performance improvements.
"Personally I would recommend the following:
1) Use a product like BG MOA
http://www.bgprod.com/bgprofessional...s/autooil.html
to clean up the lubrication side of the engine.
2) Change oil every 3,500 miles and use a non-synthetic (Dino Oil) motor oil that is at the high end of the manufacturers viscosity. Any vehicle that leaks or burns oil is going to be much worse if you use a synthetic.
3) Use some form of a PEA supplemental additive in the gasoline every 7,500 miles."
Hope this helps.
04-30-2005, 05:20 PM
#11
I miss my VE
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 2,553
an instructor at an automotive school told me "oil is oil, all this crap that their coming out with hasn't proven that it will do anything special for your car. Tests run by researchers have proven that there isn't a noticable difference. just use what the manufacturer specifies, oil change every 3000, and your car will last you for a long time"
and later that day, I was trying to pick what oil to purchase at autozone from the 10W-40 section and asked the clerk what he thinks of all these "special" oils that are very expensive and he basically told me the same thing that the teacher told me. and then he goes "why should i spend 5 bucks for something i can get for a bit more then a dollar and have to change it in 3000 miles anyway.... sshh, but i didn't say anything."
Sounds like a consparicy theory for people to spend more money on oil.
and later that day, I was trying to pick what oil to purchase at autozone from the 10W-40 section and asked the clerk what he thinks of all these "special" oils that are very expensive and he basically told me the same thing that the teacher told me. and then he goes "why should i spend 5 bucks for something i can get for a bit more then a dollar and have to change it in 3000 miles anyway.... sshh, but i didn't say anything."
Sounds like a consparicy theory for people to spend more money on oil.
04-30-2005, 05:40 PM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Posts: 1,994
Originally Posted by Joe Fontinyatz
an instructor at an automotive school told me "oil is oil, all this crap that their coming out with hasn't proven that it will do anything special for your car. Tests run by researchers have proven that there isn't a noticable difference. just use what the manufacturer specifies, oil change every 3000, and your car will last you for a long time"
and later that day, I was trying to pick what oil to purchase at autozone from the 10W-40 section and asked the clerk what he thinks of all these "special" oils that are very expensive and he basically told me the same thing that the teacher told me. and then he goes "why should i spend 5 bucks for something i can get for a bit more then a dollar and have to change it in 3000 miles anyway.... sshh, but i didn't say anything."
Sounds like a consparicy theory for people to spend more money on oil.
and later that day, I was trying to pick what oil to purchase at autozone from the 10W-40 section and asked the clerk what he thinks of all these "special" oils that are very expensive and he basically told me the same thing that the teacher told me. and then he goes "why should i spend 5 bucks for something i can get for a bit more then a dollar and have to change it in 3000 miles anyway.... sshh, but i didn't say anything."
Sounds like a consparicy theory for people to spend more money on oil.
As for whether the synthetic oil is worth the extra money. I've posted elsewhere on this site that a motor oil expert that I knew when I worked 35 years for Amoco thought that synthetic was not worth the extra money. An expert that agrees with you.
I simply remember not buring up my engine when there was no oil in the pan. So I pay extra for the insurance. I also run my synthetic further than 3 K miles. I change -- based on Nissan's specifications at 7,500 miles. When the warranty is over, I will probably go to changing every 10 K miles.
05-01-2005, 09:24 PM
#13
I miss my VE
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 2,553
Originally Posted by SilverMax_04
Well your instructor did not drive a Toyota mini-van 35 miles at about 35 mph before realizing there was no oil in the pan -- a plug had blown out. I had a mecanic check the engine and he said there was no damage from running without any oil. Why, because I was running synthetic oil. Don't try that with Dino oil, you'll burn up your engine. (I drove that van for more than 2 years after that and never had any problems with the engine.)
As for whether the synthetic oil is worth the extra money. I've posted elsewhere on this site that a motor oil expert that I knew when I worked 35 years for Amoco thought that synthetic was not worth the extra money. An expert that agrees with you.
I simply remember not buring up my engine when there was no oil in the pan. So I pay extra for the insurance. I also run my synthetic further than 3 K miles. I change -- based on Nissan's specifications at 7,500 miles. When the warranty is over, I will probably go to changing every 10 K miles.
As for whether the synthetic oil is worth the extra money. I've posted elsewhere on this site that a motor oil expert that I knew when I worked 35 years for Amoco thought that synthetic was not worth the extra money. An expert that agrees with you.
I simply remember not buring up my engine when there was no oil in the pan. So I pay extra for the insurance. I also run my synthetic further than 3 K miles. I change -- based on Nissan's specifications at 7,500 miles. When the warranty is over, I will probably go to changing every 10 K miles.
And I also read somewhere that your not suppose to use synthetic oils on just anything. You have to really consider the mileage characteristics, what type of engine to use synthetic on, and the type of driving style you have. If you travel on the highway either at the same pace or higher speeds, synthetic is the way to go.. But if most of your driving is city, then your throwing your money away on the synthetic. Im not too sure tho, I just can't remember where I read that article. I think at the autozone site, but I tried searching for it today with no luck.
Better or not for your current vehicle, perhaps you owe synthetic a "thank you" for saving your Toyota, and continue being a customer.
LOL Im just kidding with ya, but seriosly.. I can't tell the difference. 
05-02-2005, 10:15 AM
#14
Originally Posted by SilverMax_04
I was somewhat skeptical, so I asked an auto-engineering friend (member of SAE) for his opinion of "auto-rx."
"Without a detailed chemical analysis it is tough to tell exactly what the product is. My best guess is a modifier to increase the base oil viscosity coupled with a detergent package.
"All of the things cited on the web site are within the testing noise for this type of product. It may do some good but in an older engine the variability is pretty large when it comes to performance improvements.
"Personally I would recommend the following:
1) Use a product like BG MOA
http://www.bgprod.com/bgprofessional...s/autooil.html
to clean up the lubrication side of the engine.
2) Change oil every 3,500 miles and use a non-synthetic (Dino Oil) motor oil that is at the high end of the manufacturers viscosity. Any vehicle that leaks or burns oil is going to be much worse if you use a synthetic.
3) Use some form of a PEA supplemental additive in the gasoline every 7,500 miles."
Hope this helps.
"Without a detailed chemical analysis it is tough to tell exactly what the product is. My best guess is a modifier to increase the base oil viscosity coupled with a detergent package.
"All of the things cited on the web site are within the testing noise for this type of product. It may do some good but in an older engine the variability is pretty large when it comes to performance improvements.
"Personally I would recommend the following:
1) Use a product like BG MOA
http://www.bgprod.com/bgprofessional...s/autooil.html
to clean up the lubrication side of the engine.
2) Change oil every 3,500 miles and use a non-synthetic (Dino Oil) motor oil that is at the high end of the manufacturers viscosity. Any vehicle that leaks or burns oil is going to be much worse if you use a synthetic.
3) Use some form of a PEA supplemental additive in the gasoline every 7,500 miles."
Hope this helps.
05-02-2005, 11:30 AM
#15
Originally Posted by SilverMax_04
I was somewhat skeptical, so I asked an auto-engineering friend (member of SAE) for his opinion of "auto-rx."
"Without a detailed chemical analysis it is tough to tell exactly what the product is.
"Without a detailed chemical analysis it is tough to tell exactly what the product is.
05-05-2005, 05:07 PM
#18
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 21
I use synthetic oil in all my vehicle since 1989 when I had a camshaft break and go into the cylinder on a 1986 Mazda 323 ( not a great car anyway). They said it was from bad oil and wasn't covered under warranty. I had changed the oil every 3K with Castrol GTX 10w-30. The car had 42k miles on it when it happened. The warranty back then was only to 36k. I was not happy to say the least. I started using Amsoil then switched to Mobil 1 to save money, but I've moved back to Amsoil. I've driven several car to over 200k with no problems. My wife's Town and Country has 160K on it now with no oil usage or leakage. I just bought my Maxima with 74K miles on it and I'm swiching it over now. Just my .02.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
tarun900
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
19
12-20-2021 06:57 PM
My Coffee
New Member Introductions
15
06-06-2017 02:01 PM