Fluids and LubricantsMotor oil, transmission oil, radiator fluid, power steering fluid, blinker fluid... wait, there is no blinker fluid. Technical discussion and analysis of the different lubricants we use in our cars.
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I have a hile mileage car and I was wondering what I should do.Iam going back and forth on this.This is very interesting and I have been reading an awful lot. So I was about to go flush this out and use the Toyota red but, when I read IceY2K1's problem, I got nervous and I don't to see it happen to me. Hey 00MAXSE how is your car running these days?
i really dont see why you have to use distilled water just to flush the system. the motorvate guy didnt, and he didnt have any problems.
Tap water has minerals in it. You dont want those things in your cooling system. That is why you use distilled water. Those mineral build up and cause cooling failures.
Tap water has minerals in it. You dont want those things in your cooling system. That is why you use distilled water. Those mineral build up and cause cooling failures.
Yes, but there will be negligible mineral build up just from flushing the system with tap water. Obviously the water you fill the cooling system with must be distilled. He was questioning why you would need to waste money on extra distilled water just to flush it out.
Yes, but there will be negligible mineral build up just from flushing the system with tap water. Obviously the water you fill the cooling system with must be distilled. He was questioning why you would need to waste money on extra distilled water just to flush it out.
Yes, but there will be negligible mineral build up just from flushing the system with tap water. Obviously the water you fill the cooling system with must be distilled. He was questioning why you would need to waste money on extra distilled water just to flush it out.
Except that unless you pull both engine block drain plugs, then there will still be tap water in the system when you fill it up.
Yes, but there will be negligible mineral build up just from flushing the system with tap water. Obviously the water you fill the cooling system with must be distilled. He was questioning why you would need to waste money on extra distilled water just to flush it out.
Do what you want.
At .73 a gallon, it was a cheap 7.30 insurance policy. It was a no-brainer. Not even sure with that little of a cost why its even being debated.
Well, since I just changed the oil and the ATF, I am thinking that I might as well go ahead and do the power steering and the radiator as well, but I may have to give some of the guys down in the D/FW area a call to help me out (gonna be down there for christmas break with a lot of free time). I hate doing things for the first time by myself and for some reason this radiator service sounds somewhat confusing to me (finals week = i'm a dumba**)
Just take a look under the passenger side of the radiator, thats where the drain screw is.
Drain and fill is all you really do. Keep draining and filling with the distilled water until its either clear or you are satisfied. Then fill radiator up with AF....
If you are confused in anyway, PM or email me. Only thing tough about this is you need a place to dispose of the AF.
I just got some Amsoil antifreeze for my bike since I was ordering some other Amsoil stuff. It is propylene glycol based as opposed to ethylene glycol. I believe the propylene has low toxicity, but other than that, are there any advantages/disadvantages to either?
If your bike is Japanese built, the most important part you need to watch/take care of is that the AF does NOT contain silicates like the AF you are supposed to put into your Nissan Motor.
I have a Honda bike and it specifies NO silicates, as well as Yammies and Suzuks.
As for the chemical makeup beyond that, I cannot comment.
okay.. i read this thread and want to ask the following.. i dont know the mixture of my coolant, but i have not had over heating problems. i however want to use the NISSAN OEM coolant, and i heard it is already 50/50.
i am probably going to just:
1) drain radiator
2) flush it with water, till the drain = clear water
3) refill with the 50/50 oem coolant.
this may disrupt the 50/50 mixture, because theere will be distilled water in the system already.
any ideas?/ also, the DIY did not mention anything at all about bleeding the lines, so any pointers?
I have had Toyota Red in my car for about 3 months now and the car seems to run great....no overheating issues whatsoever and it performed well through the cold winter months on mornings well below freezing.
I have a 97 and nissan does not sell the gallon jugs, they told me to just use prestone.
i however can get the blue from honda, do you guys think it can or would work w/o damage?
I would think that Honda or Toyota coolant would be significantly better than Prestone. Don't worry about damage, I think it's safe to say all Japanese OEM coolant is very similar, at least from the big three Jap. automakers.
hi got a question....Have a 2003 Maxima and its running low on coolant so i went to the nissan dealership and asked for their coolant they gave me some green coolant but it says nothing about nissan oem its called" Parts Plus Antifreez and Coolant"...it also says it is designed for all cooling systems except those requiring phosphate free fluid...Should i use this coolant or take it back and ask for the nissan brand? thanks for any help
Basically, a ton-o-bs in my book. THere's no excuse for these prices. I was thinking of taking the AF into a lab, and seeing just how much silicates we're talking about.
I went back in this thread and read some of the earlier posts. Two significant ones are copied below. These might help some of you decide. Better yet, go back and read the entire thread from start to finish and do a full Org search on coolant.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bill99gxe
I would go with Toyota or Honda OEM on a foreign vehicle. Yeah, you pay $14/gallon, but you don't worry about issues down the road.
More importantly, flush the system REAL well with distilled water first, then drain the entire radiator and fill with 100% antifreeze. This guarantees you the 50/50 recommended mix.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nick778
There is no US manufacturer that makes no silicates, no phosphates antifreeze that isn't of the same chemistry as Dex-Cool and I would personally steer way clear of those. The closest thing to the Nissan OEM (which I prefer and use) is the Zerex G-05 (about $6/gal) which is low silicate and phosphate free. Given the infrequent fluid changes involved here, I think it is worth $10 more to use Nissan or any of the Japanese OEM fluids (which are all the same). If you do indeed use one of these Dex-Cool type chemistries, flush your system very well because they do not mix with the type of chemistry of the OEM.
Dont worry so much, the honda one is PREMIXED, so don't add water to it. It says NO BORATES and NO SILICATES, but then again, whether that is true or not is still up to you to honestly believe. Just like MOBIL 1 (FULLY SYNTEHTIC) vs AMSOIL 100% SYNTHETIC. As long you flush it and keep up with maintenance then it should be good.
Take things with a grain of salt. I get mine for about $14, regular coolant, prestone, peak or whatever is about 9 bucks already, some more.
As far as flushing, there is no way IMO that you can mix a PREMIXED OEM coolant and get 50/50. Unless you drain a bit and repeat the process of drain/refill w/ the OEM. Anyhow this weekend, I will be flushing some 'unknown green stuff in my maxima' and use the HONDA BLUE.
i just did my flush/drain w/ honda OEM. i think there's still some green, but oh well.
what gets to me, is the stupid plastic radiator drain plug. i think mines' really messed up.
does anyone know where or what i can do? i want to get a new one so that down 3-4 years or whatever or the next time, i can replace it. right now i got it tight enough i believe, but i will monitor it if it leaks.
i have a 97 max, and curious if any other options are avail, like if they upgraded ?should i just get an OEM replacement?
hey im not calling u a liar or anything. i am just going by what i know and what someone is offering. if it says to make a 50/50 then it is 100% coolant, not premixed.
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