What oil and oil filter should I use? Can I switch to synthetic? What viscosity?
#561
That's not true, K&N use's the same filteration as the Mobil 1 filter's they're made by Mobil 1 just not as a good bypass valve. I'd have to order AMSOIL. and I don't feel like waiting. I am due in like 80 miles.
#562
So I went ahead and Bought Mobil 1 Advanced Economy 0w 30. I've been told I could go at least 6K with oil changes with this oil? is this true?
#563
#564
German Castrol
I'm going to be changing the oil on my 1999 Nissan Maxima SE with German Castrol 0W-30 pretty soon here.
I was wondering opinions on oil filters between:
Mobile 1
Pure One
Bosch
Or if you think another is better, please let me know.
Thanks!
I was wondering opinions on oil filters between:
Mobile 1
Pure One
Bosch
Or if you think another is better, please let me know.
Thanks!
#566
Switching to full synthetic.
So after reading this entire thread Im pretty certain I can switch to full synthetic on my 97 max with 136,000 miles. I spoke to my mechanic about wanting to switch to synthetic and told me my engine is to old and I wouldn't get any benefits if I switched. Im planning on doing a Turbo soon and from what I hear, synthetic oil is better to use for the lubrication of the turbine compressor. And of course for the overall longevity of the engine.
I have never missed an oil change on my max and it is well maintained. My concern for the switch is that I had a small oil leak at one time and my mechanic told me not to worry about it because it minimal and also an expensive repair. I don't leak any oil now and I know from research switching to synthetic oil can cause the leak to return. Should I take the risk? any info will help.
I have never missed an oil change on my max and it is well maintained. My concern for the switch is that I had a small oil leak at one time and my mechanic told me not to worry about it because it minimal and also an expensive repair. I don't leak any oil now and I know from research switching to synthetic oil can cause the leak to return. Should I take the risk? any info will help.
#567
My only question is why put a turbo on a 13 year-old engine with 136 k miles on it? Using a turbo gets more horses from yoiur engine, but puts more strain on that engine as well. If you want to turbo an engine, why not put the money into a newer engine with fewer miles on it?
I think that "synthetic or not" is only a minor question -- when the real question should be "turbo or not." I say "why bother" given the age and mileage on your engine.
I think that "synthetic or not" is only a minor question -- when the real question should be "turbo or not." I say "why bother" given the age and mileage on your engine.
#568
My only question is why put a turbo on a 13 year-old engine with 136 k miles on it? Using a turbo gets more horses from yoiur engine, but puts more strain on that engine as well. If you want to turbo an engine, why not put the money into a newer engine with fewer miles on it?
I think that "synthetic or not" is only a minor question -- when the real question should be "turbo or not." I say "why bother" given the age and mileage on your engine.
I think that "synthetic or not" is only a minor question -- when the real question should be "turbo or not." I say "why bother" given the age and mileage on your engine.
No reason to buy an engine with less miles when mine is perfectly fine, if my engine happens to blow after I turbo it then I will upgrade to 3.5. Until then I will enjoy my 3.0 turboed. In stead of critiquing how old my car is why don't you just stick to the question I asked or don't say anything at all.
#570
#571
Cars age, your needs change. Nothing in life is static.
I was going to keep my 65 Vette "forever" too -- bought it new, too. But when my second child was born, it no longer made any sense for a young family that needed transportation. I bought the Vette when single, but getting married changed a lot, and the second kid was the "Vette killer" for me. Have since regretted that sale, but at the time we needed the money (and the lack of higher insurance costs for the Vette). You do what you have to do at the time. But remember, things change in your life and you have to change with them.
I was going to keep my 65 Vette "forever" too -- bought it new, too. But when my second child was born, it no longer made any sense for a young family that needed transportation. I bought the Vette when single, but getting married changed a lot, and the second kid was the "Vette killer" for me. Have since regretted that sale, but at the time we needed the money (and the lack of higher insurance costs for the Vette). You do what you have to do at the time. But remember, things change in your life and you have to change with them.
#572
Cars age, your needs change. Nothing in life is static.
I was going to keep my 65 Vette "forever" too -- bought it new, too. But when my second child was born, it no longer made any sense for a young family that needed transportation. I bought the Vette when single, but getting married changed a lot, and the second kid was the "Vette killer" for me. Have since regretted that sale, but at the time we needed the money (and the lack of higher insurance costs for the Vette). You do what you have to do at the time. But remember, things change in your life and you have to change with them.
I was going to keep my 65 Vette "forever" too -- bought it new, too. But when my second child was born, it no longer made any sense for a young family that needed transportation. I bought the Vette when single, but getting married changed a lot, and the second kid was the "Vette killer" for me. Have since regretted that sale, but at the time we needed the money (and the lack of higher insurance costs for the Vette). You do what you have to do at the time. But remember, things change in your life and you have to change with them.
Last edited by maxprivate; 02-05-2011 at 08:54 PM.
#574
If you feel compelled to make a switch, I'd stick to conventional and use a high mileage formulation like Mobil Clean High Mileage or Pennzoil High Mileage Vehicle.
#575
Just changed yesterday at 162k. Been using mobil 1 5w-30 and M1 filter since ~120k. Just noticed yesterday that both corners of rear valve cover gasket are leaking (homo). Going to fix once I get ze money
#576
This is probably what will happen to me when I switch to synthetic. The synthetic oil probably really cleaned all the old gunk non synthetic out and caused the leak.
#577
hy
Does anybody has used or knows this brand:
MOTUL 300V Power Racing 5W-30 Ester
Is it suitable for A32 VQ30 DE engine or not?
Here is the link:
http://shop.edoperformance.com/motul...l-p-15011.html
MOTUL 300V Power Racing 5W-30 Ester
Is it suitable for A32 VQ30 DE engine or not?
Here is the link:
http://shop.edoperformance.com/motul...l-p-15011.html
#578
From what I have been told from friends that work for Nissan, the oil for the VQ35 engines needs to be Ester based due to the (thin) low friction piston rings. My Maxima came with 60K miles worth of oil changes for free, so I will go with that until it's gone.
So, Nissan OEM oil is obviously ester based, and I think Enos is as well, but rediculously expensive as well. Is the Nissan OEM oil synthetic or a synthetic blend? Does anyone know?
So, Nissan OEM oil is obviously ester based, and I think Enos is as well, but rediculously expensive as well. Is the Nissan OEM oil synthetic or a synthetic blend? Does anyone know?
#579
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From what I have been told from friends that work for Nissan, the oil for the VQ35 engines needs to be Ester based due to the (thin) low friction piston rings. My Maxima came with 60K miles worth of oil changes for free, so I will go with that until it's gone.
So, Nissan OEM oil is obviously ester based, and I think Enos is as well, but rediculously expensive as well. Is the Nissan OEM oil synthetic or a synthetic blend? Does anyone know?
So, Nissan OEM oil is obviously ester based, and I think Enos is as well, but rediculously expensive as well. Is the Nissan OEM oil synthetic or a synthetic blend? Does anyone know?
#582
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Does anybody has used or knows this brand:
MOTUL 300V Power Racing 5W-30 Ester
Is it suitable for A32 VQ30 DE engine or not?
Here is the link:
http://shop.edoperformance.com/motul...l-p-15011.html
MOTUL 300V Power Racing 5W-30 Ester
Is it suitable for A32 VQ30 DE engine or not?
Here is the link:
http://shop.edoperformance.com/motul...l-p-15011.html
#585
newb
Hey I'm new to the scene here. I have a 2000 Maxima GLE, 3.0 v6... just went over 100k miles... awhile ago and inherited the car from my girlfriend after we got her another car. No major problems with the car that I have noticed, alternator and ignition sensors (or coils.. i dunno) were replaced.
She had been taking the car to a local Good Year shop where a friend of hers had worked. I an not really sure why type of oil or oil filter they had used there.
So just wanted to know, w/o knowing what type of oil was used, (the filter i can find out), what type of oil and filter should i use when I do it myself the next time it needs it?
The car is stock so basically I just want to know how to get the best performance out of the car and to have it running top notch and hopefully have this thing another 100k+ miles.
I've read so many threads and have said so many different things and didn't really see one fitting my situation. I don't mind going to a more expensive synthetic oil or a more expensive filter..i'm more concerned as I said about the longevity of the car and performance.
thanx
She had been taking the car to a local Good Year shop where a friend of hers had worked. I an not really sure why type of oil or oil filter they had used there.
So just wanted to know, w/o knowing what type of oil was used, (the filter i can find out), what type of oil and filter should i use when I do it myself the next time it needs it?
The car is stock so basically I just want to know how to get the best performance out of the car and to have it running top notch and hopefully have this thing another 100k+ miles.
I've read so many threads and have said so many different things and didn't really see one fitting my situation. I don't mind going to a more expensive synthetic oil or a more expensive filter..i'm more concerned as I said about the longevity of the car and performance.
thanx
#586
to add to that I don't believe that, since she's got it at 50k miles, that she has had any of the fluids drained. so what would be recommended to be done the next time I get an oil change at the dealership?
#587
You did not indicate how frequently the oil was changed. If you change it every 3K miles or so, you would be wasting money to go with synthetic.
I just passed 100K miles on my 04 and changed oil after 10K miles. Here is what the Blackstone lab said about the sample of Mobil 1 I sent to them when I changed the oil:
"The Nissan 3.5L V-6 engine in your Maxima is not showing any signs of slowing down as it passes the 100,000 mile mark. All wear metals are in the correct proportions to one another and at very nice levels after a 10,013 mile oil run, and that is a very good indication that no issues are developing with your engine's internal parts that share the oil. The viscosity of this oil mixture was reading at the top end of the 5W/30 range, and no coolant was present. The TBN showed plenty of active additive remaining at 4.7. Try 12,000 miles next oil change. Great engine."
I don't want to go past 10K miles per oil change because I feel I would need to change the filter in the middle of a longer OCI (oil change interval).
If you choose to use dino motor oil, I would recommend an OCI of between 5K and 7K miles with a good quality oil filter. I personally believe that Castrol makes the best dino motor oil, although some would disagree. If you change every 3 K miles, even a poorer quality oil filter should suffice.
You did not say what type of transmission you have. If you have an automatic, you should have it flushed out professionally. If you have a manual (like I do), then changing the fluid yourself is the best way to go. I have Amsoil synthetic fluid in my 6-speed and recommend it. See the stickie on this site for more on this fluid change.
The antifreeze probably also needs to be changed. See the stickie on this site for that info. You should only use a Jap brand antifreeze in your Max (Nissan, Honda or Toyota).
I just passed 100K miles on my 04 and changed oil after 10K miles. Here is what the Blackstone lab said about the sample of Mobil 1 I sent to them when I changed the oil:
"The Nissan 3.5L V-6 engine in your Maxima is not showing any signs of slowing down as it passes the 100,000 mile mark. All wear metals are in the correct proportions to one another and at very nice levels after a 10,013 mile oil run, and that is a very good indication that no issues are developing with your engine's internal parts that share the oil. The viscosity of this oil mixture was reading at the top end of the 5W/30 range, and no coolant was present. The TBN showed plenty of active additive remaining at 4.7. Try 12,000 miles next oil change. Great engine."
I don't want to go past 10K miles per oil change because I feel I would need to change the filter in the middle of a longer OCI (oil change interval).
If you choose to use dino motor oil, I would recommend an OCI of between 5K and 7K miles with a good quality oil filter. I personally believe that Castrol makes the best dino motor oil, although some would disagree. If you change every 3 K miles, even a poorer quality oil filter should suffice.
You did not say what type of transmission you have. If you have an automatic, you should have it flushed out professionally. If you have a manual (like I do), then changing the fluid yourself is the best way to go. I have Amsoil synthetic fluid in my 6-speed and recommend it. See the stickie on this site for more on this fluid change.
The antifreeze probably also needs to be changed. See the stickie on this site for that info. You should only use a Jap brand antifreeze in your Max (Nissan, Honda or Toyota).
#589
If you are going to change motor oil every 3 k miles or so, I would stick to dino-oil (not synthetic). If you want to only change the oil every 7 to 10 K miles, then I would stick to synthetic. That would probably be a good idea if (as the previous owner indicates) the engine has been run on synthetic for most of its life.
Last edited by SilverMax_04; 11-08-2010 at 12:12 PM.
#591
Oil
Don't know why that one gent doesn't like Vavoline. I change out cars about every 2 years. Almost all of the dealers I've purchased these brand new cars from (4 Maxima's now) have used conventional Vavoline oil, not synthetic. My filters (when I change the oil in my garage which is most of the time) I've used the plane old Fram. Which reminds me of an article in Consumer Reports I read several years ago testing most major brands of conventinal motor oil vs Mobil One. Pennzoil, and Valvoline were rated the top 2. Mobile One was up there as well, BUT, the article goes on to say that unless you live in the artic circle and you need that instant lub at very low temps (like -35 or so), spending the extra money for the Synthetic was not necessary. In fact, their wear test after 40,000 miles of New York City Traffic, showed no difference in wear what so ever! I've been to the customer days at these new car dealers where you and your new car show up at the dealer and ask questions on how to take care of your new car. Guess what most of the mechanics use in their own cars (sounds like a comercial), yep, conventional Vavoline. The magazine article goes on to talk about filters. For the money (Consumer Reports best buy), the regular old Fram was rated the highest. The oil my dealer just put in my 2010 Max...conventional Vavoline. (Had a coupon, 9.95 oil change, and tire rotation, plus a 100 point inspection $24. I'm cheap, not stupid, and for that price?) No ester in sight! hmmmm. Bottom line sports fans, use your favorite name brand products that you've had good luck in the past, change the oil according to manufactures intervals (I do the 3750) and your Maxima will run great. and last, and last.
Last edited by Mikes4thMax; 11-14-2010 at 01:09 PM.
#593
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Yes you can upsize a filter, but you need to be sure the larger filter contains the same features that the oem does, anti-drainback valve, etc, and that the by-pass has the same calibration.
#594
WIX makes a very high quality filter. The filtering medium is a cellulose/glass blend which contributes to efficiency and longevity...they also don't skimp on the quantity, so filter capacity is high. The filters have excellent construction, by-pass valve, silicone anti-drainback valve, metal end caps and a heavy duty coil spring to keep things in place.
Yes you can upsize a filter, but you need to be sure the larger filter contains the same features that the oem does, anti-drainback valve, etc, and that the by-pass has the same calibration.
Yes you can upsize a filter, but you need to be sure the larger filter contains the same features that the oem does, anti-drainback valve, etc, and that the by-pass has the same calibration.
#596
#597
97 Maxima on 138,000 miles. If I go with the Mobil 1 full synthetic 5w-30, as far as filter, what would my best bet be.. Wix or Mobil 1 filter? What size oil filter for those listed brands would I need?
#598
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You're talking about a WIX 51356 for the Nissan and the larger 51334 for the Honda application. These filters have the same thread size, by-pass calibration, anti-drainback valve, etc, so they are very close. Only difference I can see other than the 51334 being a little larger is that the efficiency rating is different between the two. Wix shows the 51356 as an application for both Nissan and Honda whereas the larger 51334 is only shown for Honda...base plates are also slightly different between the two filters, but the 51334 will definitely fit on a 2000 max.
#599
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I would say that your "best bet" depends on how long you leave the filters in service. If you change oil at 7500 miles or sooner, the Wix filter will be a better value...they are very high quality filters and they cost about half as much as a Mobil -1 filter does. Wix uses a cellulose-glass filtering medium that is very efficient and durable.
If, however, you extend drain intervals I would recommend the M-1 or some other filter that is designed for extended drain intervals.
#600
You're talking about a WIX 51356 for the Nissan and the larger 51334 for the Honda application. These filters have the same thread size, by-pass calibration, anti-drainback valve, etc, so they are very close. Only difference I can see other than the 51334 being a little larger is that the efficiency rating is different between the two. Wix shows the 51356 as an application for both Nissan and Honda whereas the larger 51334 is only shown for Honda...base plates are also slightly different between the two filters, but the 51334 will definitely fit on a 2000 max.
Thank you, is that my only choice? Im also curious about oil brand. Im just daily driving dont need something expensive. Is Pennzoil or Shell Rotella Synthetic Blend is good? What do you recommend?
Last edited by dragonle87; 12-10-2010 at 07:21 PM.