landover50

Good info. I need to change my tranny fluid.

ookami85

is autozone brand atf ok to use for the first few drains? is it even ok to use those at all? i think its a dex/merc multi vehicle type. just to double check, dexron III is ok to use on a 96 max?

ookami85

ok so i did the drain and fill.. i pour as much in as much that came out. I started the car, shift the car to R, N, D, 1, 2 a bit and everything seemed fine. shut off engine and then 5 minutes later went back to start it and it wont start!!! everything went dead, head lights and everything. I tried jumping it, leaving the booster connected to the battery, everything was working cept the car still wont start. i hear it clicking but it wont start! what do i do!? when i disconnect the battery booster everything goes dead again, that's the weird thing. so all the electrical stuff seems to work only when the booster is connected to it cept it wont start. help!

ookami85

turns out the battery terminal was dirty and coincidentally cause the car to not start right after i did my atf... took me a couple of hrs to figure that out.. anyway bought 2 gallons of supertech from walmart and gonna do another drain and fill tomorrow.. i have about 4.5 liters vavoline oil in the tranny now.. should be fine to mix them right

nopepeno

I have a nissan Maxima 1995. my transmission didn't have any problems but I wanted it to run like new at 170K miles "stupid me". I talked to an advicer at nissan about a way to get better gas milles so he sugested a trasmission flush. I told him do you asure me that there wont be a problem. he said yes. so we went ahead and did it at Executive jeep nissan of north haven. when I got the car back it ran faulessly all summer but that winter my trasmission started to slip for the first time like 1 or twice until it reachrd working temperature and back to normal. I whent to the dealer to complain about this and I was told by the service manager and my advicer that I should get a new trasmission and that I could probably accomplish this myself so they turned me down. now 10k milles after I have to get a new trani because I lost reverse, and bunch of other wear stuff are happening with my trani. I think that this dealership is using bad fluid because the fluid I got out of my broken tranny was very thik, like moccos. and the one I got to put in and the one from the new tranny are not that thik.

SO if it is not broken do not fix it. your tranny is working now. don't be a fool like me
I hurt my finger in the procces of changing the transmission. I am so **** I am thinking about a lot of things.

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

When I talk to people about doing flushes, I always tell them to flush 2 to 4 quarts at a time. NEVER do a full flush, SPECIALLY hooking it up to those machines that do it for you.

Do 2 or 4 qt's, then a few months later do another 2 or 4, and so on. doing a sudden flush in my opinion would shock the tranny and problems will start to show up.

1998/2001Maxima

iTrader: (1)

Does it matter what ATF is used? Does the ATF need to Import specific (i.e., for Nissan, Toyota)? I recently had a new tranny pan put on, and went through 2 batches of new fluid while doing it. A repair shop did the pan install (and this was roughly a month+ ago). Well today, while driving the car, it started shifting funny all of a sudden. First gear would overrev before shifting to second, then while in second and third gear, the engine RPMs would flucuate up and down and at times it would feel like the tranny was slipping.

Could non-import specific ATF cause this? Or could it be something more serious?

TIA!!!

FishyMan

I do not think FLUID would have caused the issues you've experienced. As long levels are good, you should be good. Stick w/ the recommendation, DEX 3 or whatever, and you'll be fine.

As long the ATF type you use matches to what your manual says, you'll be fine. I personally have used Chevron's ATF on a lot my imports and have no issues.

From the looks of it, you're having transmission issues.

1998/2001Maxima

iTrader: (1)

Yea, the fluid was about a pint low. Added fluid, and the tranny's not as bad as it was, but still has RPM flucuation issues.

Lee
1997 Maxima SE (174k miles)

FishyMan

Definitely a trans issue.

1998/2001Maxima

iTrader: (1)

Definitely not the answer I was hoping for. Looks like it might be time to offload the Maxima and get something else.

Any thoughts on what might be wrong? Maybe something easy once tranny is out of car.................................

sv10s

My 01 Maxima with 61K miles,acted up the other day (on drive mode ,high revs apx. 40000,but no more than 15-20mph) Parked it at home trying to figure out what I could do to save the transmission. I was told that I should change the transmission fluid and filter (?) .The fluid level and color seem to be in order. I never heard that you should replace filter every 30,000miles . In any case , do I have a chance to save the transmission ? or is it too late . Hate to say this , butI do not trust mechanics .
Thanks

talkinghorse

iTrader: (121)

If your fluid level is where it is supposed to be, I don't believe changing it will resolve your problem.

The filter is internal to the transmission and does not require changing every 30K...some people change them if they go thru the trouble of dropping the pan for service, but Nissan does not recommend changing it at all.

Did your Check Engine light come on concurrent with this? Nissan ought to be able to diagnose the problem using their Consult system, or take it to a reputable transmission shop for diagnosis. The problem could be a simple fix, then again not...

Good luck.

sv10s

The SES light its being coming on and off for a while .The diagnosis was vague (most times O2 sensors ) It was on before and during this incident . Could it be some other conponent ?
"Reputable" is the key word here and I have been burned in the past. Your advise is greatly appreciated ,and I thank you

talkinghorse

iTrader: (121)

Absolutely. The light will come on and you 'll get a code for the first problem/fault. You could have multiple problems.

sv10s

Thanks

GreekMaxima

hey guys,
my tranny is gone and i already ordered a used one so im about to give a try to mobil 1 ATF because i heard a very good reviews about it. I guess its 5/30w right? How many quartes do i need? my buddy says 12 bottles (1qt a bottle).....

thanks!

signals

What is the socket size for opening the drain bolt. The hex bolt head is so thin 1/4" (?) my socket slips out. Afraid to wear out the bolt corners! It is stuck solid even after W40 & PB blaster treatment. Thanks a lot for help
Can I change to thicker bolt head? if so what size? Great contributions from enthusiasts! Didnt find the same quality contributions in Honda forums

Mr. Blue Sky

iTrader: (1)

on my 5th gen auto it was a 19mm head for the drain plug. may differ on other generations.

MaxMike93

Sorry to bump, but what is done exactly to be "running through the gears"? Does that mean to shift it into every gear and let it engage while the fluid is draining out? I plan on doing this next week and I have the necessary amount of Matic D. I assume it is just one line that has to get disconnected (one on the driver's side that goes from the radiator/trans cooler to the transmission)? And I saw it mentioned but forgot exactly where, but get 1/2-inch tubing to connect onto where the line gets disconnected to direct into containers for the old fluid?

JBP

Hi, I'm new to the forum - what has driven me hear is my search to flush my transmission correctly... the fluid is black and burnt smelling (just bought the car) and is shifting a little weird - not hard though (116k).

It's a 2004 Maxima 5 speed auto... Some people are saying you cant flush it.. I don't understand why (if anybody has info/reasoning please let me know)

It seems to make sense to me just to unplug the return line hose and let it pour the old out with the engine running while I add the new stuff in...

My only problem is I CANT FIND THE RETURN LINE
I unplugged the top line that connects to the front of the transmission (there are two that enter into the bottom front of the transmission into a cylindrical part of the transmission).. turned out that is the coolant for the radiator!

Any guidance as to where the return line hose is actually located? A picture/resource would help...

Thanks

jholley

iTrader: (13)

Read page AT-66 of the 2004 AT manual

AT.pdf

The return line and feeding hoses are both connected from the AT to the radiator. The return line hose is the upper hose.



Remove the ATF drain plug and measure the old ATF that fills into the bucket. Reconnect the drain plug with a new washer. Refill new ATF into the dipstick the same amount of old ATF you measured in the bucket. Disconnect the return line hose on the AT side and place it in a bucket. Run the engine for a few seconds. Fill new ATF into the dipstick tube the same amount of old ATF that came out of the hose. Keep doing this until you see new pink ATF coming out of the return line hose. After the non-pressurized flush is complete reconnect the return line hose to the AT.

Warm up the AT by driving up to highway speeds for 15 minutes. With the engine idling in park check the ATF level using the dipstick. Add more ATF if needed.

619MAX

For me it was easier to take the hose off the radiator like in the picture and attach a separate piece of hose I had laying around onto the radiator side. Plus the hose I had laying around was longer than the return hose, but that's just what worked for me

jholley

iTrader: (13)

Either end of the return line hose can be disconnected. You'll just get less ATF spilled disconnecting the hose on the AT side.

mrsimeon

Is it a Preference to use AMSOIL ATF, Why not just use Nissan Matic D?
My transmission is working just fine, I am going to drain, and refill. I was going to go to Nissan Dealer in NJ, and pickup ATF fluid matic D dex III. Why switch to Amsoil, or Valvoline MAX life, or MOBILE 1?

My main concern is to keep the transmission running in good shape, and have it last For a very long time.
I have about 110,000 miles on my car, 1998 Maxima.

Any responses would be helpful and appreciated.

talkinghorse

iTrader: (121)

Nissan-matic D is a (minimum) spec, not a brand. AMSOIL ATF meets or exceeds Matic-D specs and can be used in any application where it's specified. AMSOIL ATF also meets/exceeds Nissan-matic J, K and S requirements as well.

While any ATF labeled as meeting Matic-D (or Dextron III) will work in your transmission, I would recommend AMSOIL ATF if you want the absolute best product available.

Field tests have proven that AMSOIL ATF will continue to perform in the most grueling operating conditions. In fact, in this field test (USED) AMSOIL ATF was within spec for NEW fluid after having been used for nearly 200,000 miles in a Las Vegas taxi on a single fill of AMSOIL. As I'm sure you appreciate, Vegas is a major metropolitan area and taxi's are subjected to all sorts of abuse. Vegas also has extreme temperatures.

At the conclusion of this test, the transmission protected with AMSOIL ATF was essentially free of sludge deposits; the clutch packs remained in outstanding condition and the manufacturer's stamp was still visible; gears had minimal wear and the seals showed no sign of deterioration. USED oil samples from this vehicle were tested against standard industry tests and were within limits for NEW fluid.

Check out this field test: http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g3118.pdf

Let me know if you have any other questions or if I can help with the oil. I'm a site sponsor, donating member and registered vendor. Check out my ad in the group deals section: http://forums.maxima.org/group-deals...ing-avail.html

thomas512atx

Anybody have information on transmission drain and fill on 7 generation maxima? Can this be done at home or do we need to take it to dealership? I just did it on my Honda Accord which was simple enough but not sure about Maxima. Thanks

raeasler

1995 Maxima, 5 Speed ?? Auto, 3.0L V-6

I've read through the 427+ posts in this thread and just need a simple answer in how to do this.

I understand all the procedural parts of the return line, the pan and possible filter removal and cleaning of all associated parts. So no comments on any of that.

My plan:

1. Drop the pan and clean it, the filter and magnets.
2. Reassemble everything and replace the same amount of old fluid that came out of the transmission via the fill tube using fresh fluid. Duh.
3. Start the car and let it run for 15-20 seconds until approximately 2 quarts have came out. And then replace with fresh fluid until it shows a proper cold level.

MY QUESTIONS ARE :

1. Do I stop right here as far as the fluid is concerned and do this "draining and refilling" evolution again in a month or so ? Or do I just keep draining and refilling the very first time that I'm doing this until the fluid looks reddish/new ?

2. Also......Am I supposed to be going through the gears while the vehicle is started for the 15-20 seconds is gonna take to pump out the 2 quarts of fluid ?

I'm just seeing too many variations on here as what to do since a lot of members do it a bit differently.

I'm looking at using AMSOIL as soon as I can find some where I live.

Thank you in advance for any and all help on this matter. And for the wealth of knowledge present in the forum.

Roy in Texas

ptatohed

iTrader: (12)

4 speed.

raeasler

My 4 speed is weird for sure. Cuz after it shifts to 4th..........and under steady throttle........it "shifts" again. The RPMs only drop like 500 RPMs but it IS a definitive drop. It's been doing this since I bought the car 3 months ago.

When this happens I am under steady and constant throttle so there is NO downshift at all.

Flat road or hills. .....no different.

Beats me. I'll try to get a video and post a link.

ptatohed

iTrader: (12)

lol. Sometime I feel like there is a 3.5th gear in my 4AT. I'm cruising in 4th gear, I hit a slight incline, I give it a tad more gas, I swear I feel a little baby downshift, I gas it a little more, then I feel the real downshift into 3rd.

raeasler

Yep. In addition to what I described. My transmission does that "baby" downshift too. Guess its normal. Not sure though.

Sam Maxima

Hi guys first of all I want to say sorry if this is the wrong section for me to post this but I am new to the site and the Max family!
I just bought my 2003 Maxima GLE and I've noticed on take offs it gives me a little blueish/grayish smoke(not a lot-but some) and also if you cruising and let off and then give some gas it does the same thing but this way it does puff bit more!And I did have my cats cleaned up inside if that matters,so my question is if this is bad and or what should or what I could do.(I love the car by the way)

talkinghorse

iTrader: (121)

Could be any number of things including, but not limited to, worn rings and/or bad valve guides. A compression check will help to isolate the problem. Recommend you first check your PCV valve and make sure it's not clogged...that's an easy and cheap fix if it turns out to be the source. How many miles on the engine? Good luck

talkinghorse

iTrader: (121)

It's Normal

Sam Maxima

Thanks for your response and the car has 200k and I just put a used engine that it has 100-120k on it-but my cats are cleaned out all 3 off them bad boys!

FantaLady23

Newbie here, so please be gentle.
I don't know much about cars at all and don't have anyone to go to that can give me expert advice, except mechanics that want to take my money. I know not all mechanics are unethical and rip-off artists. Just to be clear.
I'm practically in tears because of my 2005 Max SL.
My first transmission fluid change was at 33,940 miles in 2014. It was practically black. My mechanic filled it with 4 qts. of K-matic transmission fluid, that cost me almost $100.00 from the dealership, because I live on an island. Nobody wants to ship it here, so for this next change, I begged for $20.00/qt. for 5 qts. because they actually charge $25.00/qt. $40.00 for labor.

My car has been jerking while driving, trouble shifting from D, R, P - it kicks. Mostly problems going up and down hills, parking, but now while driving.

I was told I needed 4 engine mounts a few years ago, but didn't have the money, and was told by my mechanic that's why my car is jerking and kicking because the engine is moving so much. I now bought the 4 mounts and getting them installed and I hope it doesn't cost me over $60 for each mount installation.

I also bought 5 qts. of K-matic transmission fluid for a change hoping the jerking, kicking, hard shifting will stop. (No lights are coming on while I'm driving.)
Car now has about 38,000 miles on it. Never had any fluids flushed.

I hope with new motor mounts, changing transmission fluid, and oil/filter change these problems will stop.

After reading as much as I could without breaking down, I'm afraid it's not the motor mounts, but that my tranny is done for and I really can't afford another one.

Please be nice, I'm upset the way it is concerning this car and all the other stuff that I paid for that was maybe unnecessary, and should or shouldn't do. I don't have a lot of money and I thought this car would be my lifetime car without having so many problems.

I don't know what to do. Anyone, please help me! Thanks in advance!

talkinghorse

iTrader: (121)

Obviously hard to confirm/deny without looking at the vehicle. Seems like low mileage for motor mounts to fail, but defective motor mounts will definitely cause hard shifting, clunking when putting it into gear and what appears to be a rough idle. Was it a reputable shop or Nissan dealer that said the motor mounts were bad?

Recommend you have the service you described performed and hopefully it will correct the problem. If you continue to shop for an answer by taking it to different repair facilities, they're probably going to charge you an hour's labor just to give you their opinion. It'll probably be cheaper to rule the motor mounts out by replacing them vs assuming the worst and either trading the vehicle or having someone talk you into a more expensive repair.

Let us know how it goes... Good luck!

FantaLady23

Thank you talkinghorse!

Being that I live on an island the dealership is not very reputable, doesn’t have trained Nissan mechanics, and just plain greedy. I used them in the past for a couple things which turned out fine, but way overpriced. Then they told me I needed all these repairs that was going to cost me well over $1000.00 when my radiater overheated, which was unnecessary, so I don't trust them.
I go to a mechanic's shop that has a very good reputation on island.

I never had a transmission flush. Is that really necessary????

I know 4 motor mounts going bad does seem strange, but my mechanic told me it's because the car has a powerful engine or something like that.

4 motor mounts are not cheap.I spent over $600.00 for them. Plus now labor. The total cost is going to be close to $1000.00

I hope this Wednesday gives me good news, so I'm not a nervous wreck about the transmission. Because if it the transmission, I feel like driving it right into the ocean and be done with Max's and Nissan forever.

I will let you know what happens. Thanks.

talkinghorse

iTrader: (121)

The Dealer should have Nissan trained techs as that goes hand in hand with holding the franchise. Integrity and competence is another story. Most dealers are overpriced...having a good independent will typically save you money as their rate is generally lower. Plus the independents are small businesses and they want you to be happy so you'll come back and refer others.

So why did the car overheat and what repairs were done as a result?

Necessary depending on how the car is used and the quality of the fluid you use. Highly recommended as good preventative maintenance to ensure your transmission lives a long and trouble-free life. Your owner's manual will tell you the recommended service interval on the transmission. If they only used 4 or 5 qts or ATF the last time it was serviced, they didn't do a flush; rather, a drain and refill where they only removed a portion of the fluid and replenished it with new fluid...and that's fine for most routine service. I do a drain and refill on my own vehicles every 30K or so...just good maintenance.

Seems strange given the low miles on the car. All of the mounts might not be bad, but repair shop may have determined it best to replace them all since they're doing the job. Plus the worn ones could have put additional strain on the others and you wouldn't want them to fail shortly after having this work done. Replacing them all now could save you money in the long run. I've had motor mount problems on a Honda and on a GM car, but both had higher miles. Are you the original owner or did you buy it as a pre-owned vehicle?

Hope your issues are resolved. These are really solid vehicles capable of hundreds of thousands of miles. Good Luck!