How to flush automatic transmission fluid? What ATF to use? How to check the level?

[PhillyDonut]

Originally Posted by talkinghorse

My reference guide shows total ATF capacity on the '95 model to be 9 quarts, so you'll need at least that amount if you intend to do a complete flush.

Would you know how many quarts are needed for doing a drain/fill (not a complete flush)? Also, is there a filler plug somewhere on top of the drain plug where I can use a siphon pump to refill or do I have to refill through the dipstick?
Thanks.

[talkinghorse]

Originally Posted by PhillyDonut

Would you know how many quarts are needed for doing a drain/fill (not a complete flush)? Also, is there a filler plug somewhere on top of the drain plug where I can use a siphon pump to refill or do I have to refill through the dipstick?
Thanks.

I've drained anywhere between 4 and 5.5 quarts when doing a drain and refill. The amount of fluid you drain out depends on a number of factors including temperature of the fluid, angle of the car, length of time you let it drain, etc.

Refill is accomplished through the dipstick tube.

[addicted2pain]

Does anyone have experience with Royal Purple Synthetic ATF? I know that everyone raves about the Amsoil, and indeed talkinghorse can get us a good price on Amsoil products. I am curious about the Royal Purple because it is available locally albeit more expensive than our Amsoil prices. Maybe this is a good option if I ever need a single quart or get in a pinch.

[talkinghorse]

Originally Posted by addicted2pain

Does anyone have experience with Royal Purple Synthetic ATF? I know that everyone raves about the Amsoil, and indeed talkinghorse can get us a good price on Amsoil products. I am curious about the Royal Purple because it is available locally albeit more expensive than our Amsoil prices. Maybe this is a good option if I ever need a single quart or get in a pinch.

I'm sure RP is a good product; however, unless you've developed a leak, there should be no reason why you would ever need to top-off your system. However, if an emergency situation were ever to arise where you needed fluid while you were waiting to make repairs, AMSOIL is fully compatible with other synthetic and petroleum-based fluids. Also, as many will attest, I can often put products on a customers' doorstep overnight....so availability shouldn't be a concern.

I've been using AMSOIL ATF since the mid-80's and have sold a ton of it to our members and others, in all areas of the US and Canada, for use in a wide variety of applications. Its a fantastic product...reduces wear; lowers operating temperatures in extreme conditions such as high performance application, towing, etc; extended service life; and for those up north, it will flow in sub-zero temperatures...all of that translates to increased component reliability, fewer repairs and longevity.

Let me know if I can help...

[addicted2pain]

Originally Posted by talkinghorse

I'm sure RP is a good product; however, unless you've developed a leak, there should be no reason why you would ever need to top-off your system. However, if an emergency situation were ever to arise where you needed fluid while you were waiting to make repairs, AMSOIL is fully compatible with other synthetic and petroleum-based fluids. Also, as many will attest, I can often put products on a customers' doorstep overnight....so availability shouldn't be a concern.

I've been using AMSOIL ATF since the mid-80's and have sold a ton of it to our members and others, in all areas of the US and Canada, for use in a wide variety of applications. Its a fantastic product...reduces wear; lowers operating temperatures in extreme conditions such as high performance application, towing, etc; extended service life; and for those up north, it will flow in sub-zero temperatures...all of that translates to increased component reliability, fewer repairs and longevity.

Let me know if I can help...

Thanks, talkinghorse. Amsoil is also ~$3 cheaper through your hookup, too.

When next payday comes around, I'm going to get prepared for a transmission flush or drain/fill. Not sure which yet. It seems to be a matter of opinion which is better from reading this thread. I have an 04 with a 5 spd AT which I understand has a heatsink type method of cooling. From some of the diagrams I have seen, this system does not have transmission lines running to the radiator which are used in the method of completely changing out the fluid. So, the best I'll probably be able to do is drop the transmission pan and at least swap out 3-4 qts. <Shrug> Better than nothing. Then I can repeat every 30 kmiles.

The heatsink type method of cooling appears to have the coolant lines actually running to the transmission to keep it cool. Can someone confirm this for me? (Forgive me for the noobish questions, it is the only way I will learn). If there are transmission lines in this system, I would like to add a cooler.

[chernmax]

Originally Posted by addicted2pain

Thanks, talkinghorse. Amsoil is also ~$3 cheaper through your hookup, too.

When next payday comes around, I'm going to get prepared for a transmission flush or drain/fill. Not sure which yet. It seems to be a matter of opinion which is better from reading this thread. I have an 04 with a 5 spd AT which I understand has a heatsink type method of cooling. From some of the diagrams I have seen, this system does not have transmission lines running to the radiator which are used in the method of completely changing out the fluid. So, the best I'll probably be able to do is drop the transmission pan and at least swap out 3-4 qts. <Shrug> Better than nothing. Then I can repeat every 30 kmiles.

The heatsink type method of cooling appears to have the coolant lines actually running to the transmission to keep it cool. Can someone confirm this for me? (Forgive me for the noobish questions, it is the only way I will learn). If there are transmission lines in this system, I would like to add a cooler.

I'm not 100% sure but I thought the Heat sink cooling method started in the 2005 model???

[addicted2pain]

Originally Posted by chernmax

I'm not 100% sure but I thought the Heat sink cooling method started in the 2005 model???

I believe the heat sink method started with the 5 spd AT which some 04's have and some do not.

[i30dvr]

ok guys, i have like 5 qts. on amsoil atf laying around and need to flush my trans....my question is the fluid in the trans is not synthetic so there would still be some fluid left in the tq converter and what not with a drain and flush. Is this ok to do or is it not recommened to drain and refill with synthetic atf....? thanks

[talkinghorse]

Originally Posted by i30dvr

ok guys, i have like 5 qts. on amsoil atf laying around and need to flush my trans....my question is the fluid in the trans is not synthetic so there would still be some fluid left in the tq converter and what not with a drain and flush. Is this ok to do or is it not recommened to drain and refill with synthetic atf....? thanks

AMSOIL ATF is fully compatible with petroleum fluids. While only 5 quarts of AMSOIL added to your total system will not provide the maximum benefits of the product, it will help some and it will definitely not cause any problems.

[DrivenToTheMAX]

I'm thinking of flushing out my transmission. I have been told twice not to replace the current fluid once I have replaced the transmission filter/screen. To simply reuse the old fluid, if not it will ruine the transmission. I'm thinking this is not right. This is one of the last fluids that I have not changed. Looking on some advice here and also what fluid to use if I decide to flush it. Thinking of an intercooler too.

[redlinenurmaxima]

ok sry guys, but i dont really have the time to look and read all the replys on the thread so here i go. I have a 2005 maxima sl with 63,000 miles on it. So I really need to flush my transmission and radiator fluid. But I like to accelarate and switch it to the cvt a lot and I wanna get good fluids for that. I live in New Jersey so weather kinda unpredictable and gets pretty cold in winter. Any suggestions?

[loxety]

I have been using walmart brand Dexron III since I got the car at 165k miles and changing the trans fluid every oil change (hey, its $10/gal). I get hard shifts from time to time.. recently changed to mercon V and the trans now seems to shift smooth. I read at bob is the oil guy dot com forums that mercon v is a synthetic blend thats designed with friction modifiers, its compatible with dex III. Mobile 1 Synthetic ATF is hard to find in my area.. walmart brand mercon V was $3.75qt. btw this is an interesting read about trans fluid.. it lists several different types http://www.aa1car.com/library/atf.htm

[jholley]

I own a 98 Maxima SE with 125,450 miles. I last had the tansmission oil flushed out at 90,000 miles. They also dropped the pan, cleaned the screen, and replaced the gasket.
I'd like to drain about 5 quarts thru transmission drain plug, then open the return line hose and flush out about 2 quarts per start.
I have 2 simple questions:

1. Is the return line the upper or lower hose?

2. Which end of the return line do I disconnect (trans or cooler end)?

Thanks,

John

[jholley]

I went to a nissan dealership to buy the copper gasket for the drain bolt. I'm be reusing the drain bolt so I'll just add some sealant.
One of the serviemen told me that you disconnect the hose attached to the trans (not the cooler), but he didn't know off hand if the return line was the top or bottom hose.

After I get that answer I'll drain and flush out that transmission. There's no rush beacuse it's still pink with no burning scent.

I just flushed out the radiator several times with distilled water, cleaned the resevoir, then refilled with a gallon of Nissan OEM green coolant. It was $5 cheaper than the toyota red coolant.

Originally Posted by jholley

I own a 98 Maxima SE with 125,450 miles. I last had the tansmission oil flushed out at 90,000 miles. They also dropped the pan, cleaned the screen, and replaced the gasket.
I'd like to drain about 5 quarts thru transmission drain plug, then open the return line hose and flush out about 2 quarts per start.
I have 2 simple questions:

1. Is the return line the upper or lower hose?

2. Which end of the return line do I disconnect (trans or cooler end)?

Thanks,

John

[fessa]

Originally Posted by jholley

1. Is the return line the upper or lower hose?

2. Which end of the return line do I disconnect (trans or cooler end)?

you have 2 hoses going into transmission. There is a bolt on the transmission on the one hose - this is NOT return line, you have to disconnect another one.

Disconnect from the transmission side and connect it with clear tube (1/2 inner diameter).

[jholley]

The return line hose for the auto transmission is the upper hose. This hose isn't bolted down but just requires pliers to loosen the clamp.
After draining the pan I filled it up with about a gallon of Castrol Import ATF. I was thinking of Amsoil or Mobil 1 but to save a few dollars I used a half synthetic ATF.
I then flushed out about 8 more quarts from the return line hose. The used ATF had over 34,000 on it but it was totally pink. I couldn't tell the difference from the old and new ATF so I changed a total of almost 12 quarts.
Since doing this last week the 3 drive gears are switching much more easily and the RPM drops much less when the drive gears change. The idle is also running smoother with no pinging.

Thanks for the info guys,

John

Originally Posted by jholley

I own a 98 Maxima SE with 125,450 miles. I last had the tansmission oil flushed out at 90,000 miles. They also dropped the pan, cleaned the screen, and replaced the gasket.
I'd like to drain about 5 quarts thru transmission drain plug, then open the return line hose and flush out about 2 quarts per start.
I have 2 simple questions:

1. Is the return line the upper or lower hose?

2. Which end of the return line do I disconnect (trans or cooler end)?

Thanks,

John

[JD4440]

How much is K Matic at the dealer usually ?